Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-19 Thread WILLIS COOKE

--- David Cutter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Glad you raised that point, Brian.  In my Sunday
> school classes I ask the 
> question: "what does the fuse protect?"  It's  a
> revelation to all when I 
> give the right answer.
> 
> On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can
> lead to a severe shock 
> hazard and I'm guessing that in the 110V
> centre-tapped system since the 
> shock hazard is so much less, the next major hazard
> is fire, so, I've often 
> 
You are right David.  110 VAC is much safer than 240V,
it can just barely kill you.

Cookie, K5EWJ

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-19 Thread David Cutter
Glad you raised that point, Brian.  In my Sunday school classes I ask the 
question: "what does the fuse protect?"  It's  a revelation to all when I 
give the right answer.


On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can lead to a severe shock 
hazard and I'm guessing that in the 110V centre-tapped system since the 
shock hazard is so much less, the next major hazard is fire, so, I've often 
thought that we are protecting against 2 hazards, each with a different 
emphasis in each case.


In a 14V dc distribution system there is no real shock hazard (SELV), so the 
remaining hazard has to be fire, so, a slow fuse is not a problem, since 
heating effect in the wiring is so much slower.


Anyone care to comment/add?

David



On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> wrote:

A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other 
words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  blow a 
new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  get metal 
fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  transistors - 
on three legs anyway...




Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  is 
to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  component 
itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  rise. The 
idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  there is any 
chance of damage to the wire.


This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  If 
you want that level of protection you need something like a power  supply 
with fold-back current limiting.


Brian Lloyd 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Brian Lloyd


On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:


A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other  
words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  
blow a new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  
get metal fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  
transistors - on three legs anyway...


Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  
is to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  
component itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  
rise. The idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  
there is any chance of damage to the wire.


This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  
If you want that level of protection you need something like a power  
supply with fold-back current limiting.


Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Julius Fazekas
Hi Ron,

Thanks for the analysis. You pointed out several
things I was unaware of related to these types of
fuses. Nice to learn something new!

I'm in the process of redoing the power distribution
in my shack, so will take this info into account.

Fortunately, it's been a while since I've blown any
fuse.


Cheers,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread d.cutter
A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other words very 
slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally blow a new fuse.  Have 
not seen any data on old fuses which might get metal fatigue.  There are faster 
fuses, but the fastest are rf transistors - on three legs anyway...

David
G3UNA
> 
> From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2008/06/16 Mon PM 06:52:16 BST
> To: "'Elecraft Discussion List'" 
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question
> 
> Hi Julius:
> 
> I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running the K3
> at 100 watts. Like the K2, I suspect the current draw varies a bit depending
> upon the rig, the actual parameters of some of the transistors, etc. That's
> normal, according to the K3 specs, which rate the current demand at 17-22
> amps at 100 watts in transmit
> 
> IMX fuses have a nasty habit of suddenly opening after being cycled a number
> of times near their rated limit, even the 'slo-blo' type that are supposed
> to offer a little resistance against sudden failure when their current limit
> is reached will sometimes open unexpectedly.
> 
> I've seen fuses operating near their current limits develop cracks so they
> act like thermal switches, causing power to go off suddenly then, after a
> few seconds (while the fuse cools) suddenly come back on, then switch off
> again as soon as a higher current is drawn such as for transmitting.
> Eventually they fail completely, but in the meantime the symptoms can be
> pretty confusing.  
> 
> As a matter of practice I try to allow significant headroom between the
> rating of any fuses and the actual current draw, and I always have spare
> fuses on hand since they can and do fail over time, even if not subjected to
> excessive current. 
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> Ron,
> 
> I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
> contests, without an issue. 
> 
> Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
> setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
> enough wiggle room not to worry too much.
> 
> The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)
> 
> 73,
> Julius
> 
> 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Julius:

I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running the K3
at 100 watts. Like the K2, I suspect the current draw varies a bit depending
upon the rig, the actual parameters of some of the transistors, etc. That's
normal, according to the K3 specs, which rate the current demand at 17-22
amps at 100 watts in transmit

IMX fuses have a nasty habit of suddenly opening after being cycled a number
of times near their rated limit, even the 'slo-blo' type that are supposed
to offer a little resistance against sudden failure when their current limit
is reached will sometimes open unexpectedly.

I've seen fuses operating near their current limits develop cracks so they
act like thermal switches, causing power to go off suddenly then, after a
few seconds (while the fuse cools) suddenly come back on, then switch off
again as soon as a higher current is drawn such as for transmitting.
Eventually they fail completely, but in the meantime the symptoms can be
pretty confusing.  

As a matter of practice I try to allow significant headroom between the
rating of any fuses and the actual current draw, and I always have spare
fuses on hand since they can and do fail over time, even if not subjected to
excessive current. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Ron,

I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
contests, without an issue. 

Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
enough wiggle room not to worry too much.

The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)

73,
Julius


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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
Ron,

I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
contests, without an issue. 

Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
enough wiggle room not to worry too much.

The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)

73,
Julius




Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Me too, but I realized that the K3 draws somewhat more current than the
K2/100. Depending upon the band antenna, etc., the total current can exceed
the rating of the rating of the 20-amp fuse in the K2/100 power cord. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
>  ...whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable with the K3/100 
> (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation on K2 and K3)?

Yes, they have the same orientation. I initially ran my K3 with my 
K2/100 cable.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread Lyle Johnson

 ...whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable with
the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation
on K2 and K3)? 


Yes, they have the same orientation. I initially ran my K3 with my 
K2/100 cable.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread David Lankshear
I haven't been able to locate this information in the documentation, so perhaps 
a kind soul could oblige?

In anticipation of a K3/100 kit's arrival, I would like to know the length of 
power cord supplied and also whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable 
with the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation on K2 and K3)? 

Many thanks.

DaveL  G3TJP
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