I bored out my K2 knob to fit the 1/4 shaft on my K1. I used a drill
press and a 1/4 Dremel bit. I don't remember which one, but it was
not a twist drill bit. The K2 knob is 6mm. 6mm is 0.236 in. so you
need to remove .007 in. of brass from the wall. Since the knob would
be hard to clamp, I would not use a twist drill bit. It would almost
certainly grab and you would have a spinner. Better to grind. I
drilled out a knob hole in a Junker straight key lever arm with a
twist drill bit because I wanted 5mm threads and the bit grabbed the
lever, which I had to retrieve from a new hole in the wallboard.
Good Luck and 73
Rick Dettinger K7MW
On Jul 17, 2008, at 6:09 PM, DaveL G3TJP wrote:
Some time ago, I replaced the K2's main tuning knob, complete with
finger
dimple, with another more user-friendly knob from the (*S!) Yaesu
stable,
In a fit of admiration of my new K3, it occurred to me that the
original K2
knob might very well make a handy substitute for the K3's VFO B knob,
particularly if the K3's tilt bail was in use.
I was disappointed to discover that the K2 knob's hole was a shade
too small
to fit on the K3's VFO B shaft. There seems to be only a few thou
difference, which might be worth drilling out, but has anyone else
tried
this and if so, with what result?
73 DaveL G3TJP
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
