Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-19 Thread d.cutter
I'm going to have to clarify what I said:  I would not use the vinegar variety 
for caulking, ie in large quantities where there are electrical parts in an 
enclosed space.  I was talking about in free air.  I have used Dow Corning 
3140 for that.

Sorry for misleading anyone, but, as always, glad to raise the issue for others 
to learn from the group experience.  

David
G3UNA  
 
 From: Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/10/18 Wed PM 04:00:46 BST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.
 
 Hi
 
 My company manufactures a small controller used on aerobic sewage treatment 
 plants. I have over 50,000 of them installed. One of the requirements is to 
 seal all of the electrical wiring where it enters the controller box using 
 silicone rubber. This is to keep chlorine, HS2 and water vapor out of the 
 box. We provide a 4 Oz tube of GE Silicone II so our installers will not use 
 the wrong type of silicone. The Silicone II is alcohol based rather than 
 Acetic acid based (vinegar). I have received several circuit boards returned 
 with green corrosion on the resistor leads and circuit traces due to the 
 wrong type of silicone used. We found this because the silicone we provide 
 is clear and the installer had used white bathroom calk bought at the local 
 hardware store. I guess he lost the tube we provided in the parts kit.
 
 I would not recommend any adhesive be used on any Elecraft kit just as it 
 states in the manual. The wire leads are strong enough to hold the toroids. 
 If you must use something I would suggest a small strip of double stick foam 
 tape.
 
 Don Brown
 KD5NDB
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 9:35 AM
 Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.
 
 
  David,
 
  I beg to disagree, some time ago I used some of the 'vinegar' stuff on a
  splice with insulated copper wire (#14 THHN) - and I can say that the bad
  stuff keeps creeping for a long way.  After a couple years, I had occasion
  to examine it and found the stuff had crept up under the insulation and
  caused corrosion as much as 6 inches from the point where it was applied -
  It did make a good weather seal, but at the cost of electrical properties
  loss.  Fortunately, this was not in any critical application.
 
  No longer will I use commonly available RTV direcly in electronics
  applications - even the consumer grade 'non-corrosive' RTV commonly
  available that I bought recently had a vinegar smell to it.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
 
   -Original Message-
  
   I think too much is made of so-called corrosive RTV (it's the
   vinegar).   The level of corrosion to bare metal is very small
   and in free air stops fairly quickly.  For other components
   bathroom sealant is perfectly adequate.  Enamelled copper wire
   and toroids should be immune anyway.
  
   David
   G3UNA
  
  
 
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[Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev. D vs. older Rev. C

2006-10-19 Thread Ron Hahn (EI2JP)


Ok Lads,

I too have scoured the Elecraft web site for the changes from Rev C  
(which I'm building now after a long delay after purchasing) and Rev  
D (the alleged current version) and I cannot find any reference to  
the changes.


Perhaps someone at Elecraft could educate us as to the changes  
required to go from Rev C to Rev D???


Thanks,

Ron
-
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Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Marshall Jose
I'll come out of the closet and admit that I, too, used the expensive 
non-corrosive RTV to hold down the cores in my new K2. I did it because


- I'm willing to accept the (warranty-breaking) consequences of doing so,
- It's standard practice with spacecraft assemblies, which are held to a 
higher standard than ham radio kits, and

- I had access to some :)

PLEASE note that I have no intention of starting a religious war about 
construction practices. Elecraft's warranty policy is concrete and 
perfectly understandable, and I have no quarrel with it. My comment here 
is made only to reassure the nonconformists among us. :)


Marshall, WA3VPZ

Ron Willcocks wrote:


Hi
 I have just finished making a K2/100 for a friend here
I was a
bit alarmed at having a choke this size dangling upside down on flimsy
wires ( when in the K2) that I have broken the Elecraft Golden Rule and
used a small amount of non-acidic RTV under each choke to hold it in 
place.

( I guess the Warranty just expired after admitting that!)
I wonder if any other recent constructors have had the same concern 
for the

mechanical stability of these components?
Cheers.Ron ZL1TW


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RE: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ron,

I built up one of the first new KPA100 kits and had no problem with loose RF
chokes as you describe - I just checked it and the cores are tight.  Yes,
the mounting holes are wide-spaced, but the leads can still be snugged down
so the cores do not move - a gentle tug with the pliers while soldering is
sufficient.

If one is a 'real purist' and insists that the toroids line up squarely with
the silkscreening on the board, then yes, the leads will have to be a bit
loose, but there is no real need to 'square-up' the toroids, and for the
sake of longevity, it is better just to snug the leads and let the cores
twist where they may.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Hi
  I have just finished making a K2/100 for a friend here, and I notice
 that the KPA100 is now up to REV D-1 ( Sept 28 2006) and has a  quite few
 changes in it.
 Amongst them is the addition of two new toroidal RF chokes that
 are filled
 with #26 wire and because they are so full, the mounting holes on
 the (Rev
 B) board are a bit far apart to be able to pull them down tight. I was a
 bit alarmed at having a choke this size dangling upside down on flimsy
 wires ( when in the K2) that I have broken the Elecraft Golden Rule and
 used a small amount of non-acidic RTV under each choke to hold it
 in place.
 ( I guess the Warranty just expired after admitting that!)
 I wonder if any other recent constructors have had the same
 concern for the
 mechanical stability of these components?
 Among the changes I see the pesky RFC10 on the antenna socket has
 disappeared!
 Cheers.Ron ZL1TW


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Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread d.cutter
I think too much is made of so-called corrosive RTV (it's the vinegar).   The 
level of corrosion to bare metal is very small and in free air stops fairly 
quickly.  For other components bathroom sealant is perfectly adequate.  
Enamelled copper wire and toroids should be immune anyway.

David
G3UNA

 
 From: Marshall Jose [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/10/18 Wed PM 02:05:53 BST
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.
 
 I'll come out of the closet and admit that I, too, used the expensive 
 non-corrosive RTV to hold down the cores in my new K2. I did it because
 
 - I'm willing to accept the (warranty-breaking) consequences of doing so,
 - It's standard practice with spacecraft assemblies, which are held to a 
 higher standard than ham radio kits, and
 - I had access to some :)
 
 PLEASE note that I have no intention of starting a religious war about 
 construction practices. Elecraft's warranty policy is concrete and 
 perfectly understandable, and I have no quarrel with it. My comment here 
 is made only to reassure the nonconformists among us. :)
 
 Marshall, WA3VPZ
 

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Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Ben Hofmann K1NT
Hmmm...
   
  Where can I find more information about the specifics of the changes in the 
new KPA100 revision?  Looked real quick on the elecraft web site, but didn't 
find anything.  I have an unbuilt KPA100 that is the previous version, and I'm 
wondering if I should try to order parts and incorporate some of the new 
revision changes as I build it.
   
  -Ben  K1NT
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

I beg to disagree, some time ago I used some of the 'vinegar' stuff on a
splice with insulated copper wire (#14 THHN) - and I can say that the bad
stuff keeps creeping for a long way.  After a couple years, I had occasion
to examine it and found the stuff had crept up under the insulation and
caused corrosion as much as 6 inches from the point where it was applied -
It did make a good weather seal, but at the cost of electrical properties
loss.  Fortunately, this was not in any critical application.

No longer will I use commonly available RTV direcly in electronics
applications - even the consumer grade 'non-corrosive' RTV commonly
available that I bought recently had a vinegar smell to it.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I think too much is made of so-called corrosive RTV (it's the
 vinegar).   The level of corrosion to bare metal is very small
 and in free air stops fairly quickly.  For other components
 bathroom sealant is perfectly adequate.  Enamelled copper wire
 and toroids should be immune anyway.

 David
 G3UNA



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Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Don Brown
Hi

My company manufactures a small controller used on aerobic sewage treatment 
plants. I have over 50,000 of them installed. One of the requirements is to 
seal all of the electrical wiring where it enters the controller box using 
silicone rubber. This is to keep chlorine, HS2 and water vapor out of the 
box. We provide a 4 Oz tube of GE Silicone II so our installers will not use 
the wrong type of silicone. The Silicone II is alcohol based rather than 
Acetic acid based (vinegar). I have received several circuit boards returned 
with green corrosion on the resistor leads and circuit traces due to the 
wrong type of silicone used. We found this because the silicone we provide 
is clear and the installer had used white bathroom calk bought at the local 
hardware store. I guess he lost the tube we provided in the parts kit.

I would not recommend any adhesive be used on any Elecraft kit just as it 
states in the manual. The wire leads are strong enough to hold the toroids. 
If you must use something I would suggest a small strip of double stick foam 
tape.

Don Brown
KD5NDB


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 9:35 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.


 David,

 I beg to disagree, some time ago I used some of the 'vinegar' stuff on a
 splice with insulated copper wire (#14 THHN) - and I can say that the bad
 stuff keeps creeping for a long way.  After a couple years, I had occasion
 to examine it and found the stuff had crept up under the insulation and
 caused corrosion as much as 6 inches from the point where it was applied -
 It did make a good weather seal, but at the cost of electrical properties
 loss.  Fortunately, this was not in any critical application.

 No longer will I use commonly available RTV direcly in electronics
 applications - even the consumer grade 'non-corrosive' RTV commonly
 available that I bought recently had a vinegar smell to it.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


  -Original Message-
 
  I think too much is made of so-called corrosive RTV (it's the
  vinegar).   The level of corrosion to bare metal is very small
  and in free air stops fairly quickly.  For other components
  bathroom sealant is perfectly adequate.  Enamelled copper wire
  and toroids should be immune anyway.
 
  David
  G3UNA
 
 

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Re: Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Don, W3FPR wrote


No longer will I use commonly available RTV direcly in electronics
applications - even the consumer grade 'non-corrosive' RTV commonly
available that I bought recently had a vinegar smell to it.


--

Very wise!

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


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Re: [Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-18 Thread Mike S
At 11:03 AM 10/18/2006, Karl Larsen wrote...

   I hold all my toroid coils firm to the board AFTER all tuning is complete 
 with my Hot Glue system. It tacks down everything but not so tight you can't 
 get it loose. I do not find the hot glue to be corrosive.

Beeswax is the traditional tried and true. It does not affect the Q or 
impedance (if I recall correctly, silicone rubber does have an effect, I 
suspect hot glue would, too). It holds fast, but is still easy to soften/remove 
if a component needs to be replaced. 

There have been previous discussions on this list regarding this, which a 
search of the archives should turn up. 
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[Elecraft] New KPA100 Rev.

2006-10-17 Thread Ron Willcocks

Hi
I have just finished making a K2/100 for a friend here, and I notice 
that the KPA100 is now up to REV D-1 ( Sept 28 2006) and has a  quite few 
changes in it.
Amongst them is the addition of two new toroidal RF chokes that are filled 
with #26 wire and because they are so full, the mounting holes on the (Rev 
B) board are a bit far apart to be able to pull them down tight. I was a 
bit alarmed at having a choke this size dangling upside down on flimsy 
wires ( when in the K2) that I have broken the Elecraft Golden Rule and 
used a small amount of non-acidic RTV under each choke to hold it in place. 
( I guess the Warranty just expired after admitting that!)
I wonder if any other recent constructors have had the same concern for the 
mechanical stability of these components?

Among the changes I see the pesky RFC10 on the antenna socket has disappeared!
Cheers.Ron ZL1TW


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