Erik,
Most Type N connectors have a captive center pin that is pressed into a
teflon dielectric. Some can be removed easier than others. There is a
knurl on the center pin to hold it in place. I have popped them out on
occasion and used a metal push pin that is drilled out to surround the
four fingers and hold them in place. Some connectors are advertised as
hermetic. Stay away from those. Most imports have easily removed pins.
It has been many years since I ordered them and I forget the exact
supplier, but they were built in Taiwan and had a nice brazed flange and
a gold plated center pin.
Dave
On 11/1/2018 4:08 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
My apologies for going far OT here. Any replies direct only please.
I am trying to fix the broken N connector on a surplus 100W dummy load, RELM
T44004.
The female part has lost 2 of its 4 fingers, and needs to be replaced. The
connector has a standard size square flange with 4 screws. (This is *not*
the same as the larger square flange of the interchangeable Bird
connectors). On the back is a custom part that connects to the load
resistor. It seems to be crimped to the female N part. My hope is that I
will be able to separate these parts and attach the custom part to a new
N-female part. The combo slides out easily from the teflon insulator. The
first task is to obtain a new N-female part, preferably gold-plated. Taking
a hacksaw to a barrel female-female, or elbow male-female seems like a lot
of work. Even getting the center connector out of a chassis mount N female
might take some work, but seems easier. My junk box is heavy with N
connectors, but to my surprise I couldn't find a single chassis mount N
female. My question to the group: Has anyone attempted to get the center
part out from a female N connector? Was a particular brand of N connector
especially easy to work on?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
73,
Erik K7TV
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