Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Fred Jensen]

Yes, and I remember when the kinks were introduced.  Through-hole 
4-layer circuit board for a vehicular and aircraft application, I gave 
one of our prototypes that had been auto-stuffed to our Mech E. and told 
him to put it into his shake-and-bake, and show me the vibration spectra 
when the parts fell off.  Every single one of the kinked caps flew off 
at well below our contract vibration specs.


I don't subject my K2 to anything like that, but I have dropped my pack 
a couple of times [and knew I would], and I straightened all the leads 
and put the caps right down on the board when I built it.  It's a little 
more work, I figured it was worth it.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 10/15/2015 8:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The "kinks" were introduced by the manufacturer so the leads would drop
right into standard pc-board hole spacings by automated board stuffing
machines. The assembly manuals identify those caps where it is important to
have the shortest possible lead lengths. Otherwise there is not a lot to be
gained by straightening the leads and forcing the cap into place.

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The "kinks" were introduced by the manufacturer so the leads would drop
right into standard pc-board hole spacings by automated board stuffing
machines. The assembly manuals identify those caps where it is important to
have the shortest possible lead lengths. Otherwise there is not a lot to be
gained by straightening the leads and forcing the cap into place. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer,
Edward
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 3:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that have
a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead spacing is
correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If inserted gently
into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that leaves the leads too
long, I think, contrary to the principle that short leads avoid stray
couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to ³dekink² the legs with
needle-nose pliers - straightening them out, allowing the body of the cap to
sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to pull the leads through the PCB
until the kinks snap through and come out the other side.  That sounds
neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting stress on the capacitor itself.
What¹s the best way to do this?  And why are those kinks there in the first
place?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[James Bennett]

Ted - been there! I de-kink mine before placing them on the board.

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA

> On Oct 15, 2015, at 3:42 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
> 
> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into 
the board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
are those kinks there in the first place?




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[Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Dauer, Edward]

If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .

Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
are those kinks there in the first place?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Vic Rosenthal]

But hold the capacitor by the lead, not by its body, when you do this. You 
don't want to accidentally apply twisting force between the lead and the 
capacitor.
I learned this the hard way when I built my K2 and I still remember it!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 1:50 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into the 
> board.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>> 
>> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
>> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
>> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
>> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
>> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
>> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
>> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
>> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
>> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
>> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
>> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
>> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
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