Alan,
Not much at all to do the swap. Remove 6 screws holding the KPA100 - 2
on the rear panel, one at the top center of each side panel, and 2 at
the front of the KPA100 assembly.
Now you can lift the KPA100 away from the K2 - tilt it so it is upside
down to the right of the K2.
Unplug 3 cables along the right side of the K2 RF Board (AUX RF, AUX DC,
and speaker) also unplug the ribbon cable going to the Control
Board.
The KPA100 is now free.
To install the QRP cover with the KAT100, hold it upside down to the
right of the K2 - plug in the coaxial cable to the AUX RF header, plug
the speaker into RF Board J5 (not control board J5), and plug the 4
conductor cable going to the KAT2 into the 10 pin header on the Control
Board - be certain the green wire is at the top.
Rotate the QRP top cover in place over the K2 and use 6 screws to hold
it (same locations as the ones removed for the KPA100).
That is all there is to the task - it can be accomplished in one to two
minutes after you have done it once.
73,
Don W3FPR
Allan Taylor wrote:
I built a K2 years ago (S/N 157) and subsequently sold it.(various
reasons) Recently, I purchased a complete K2/100
with most of the options and mods. It will be used for portable
operations where QRP is not appropriate. (I also have the KAT100 for
it). Then more recently I purchased a top deck and KAT2 with the idea
of converting it back to a QRP
rig with internal ATU as required for portable operating. I just
looked at the KAT2 manual and am not certain if what I would like
to do is really feasible without a lot of fuss. That is, just what is
involved in swapping out the top lid and KPA2 for the old top lid
with a KAT2? I built neither the K2/100 nor the KAT2.
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