The K1 (and QRP version of the K2) indicates output by measuring the RF voltage at the antenna jack (unless you have the Elecraft tuners built in, which I assume you don't since you are using an outboard tuner).
The RF voltage varies according to the RF power output AND it varies according to the impedance of the load connected to the rig. When you adjust your outboard tuner, you're varying the load impedance and so the RF voltage jumps around. This is *not* an indication of more output, merely a change in load impedance. Indeed, the rig is designed to deliver RF into a 50 ohm non-reactive load so it's most efficient when doing that, even though the output indicator might show a higher (RF voltage) reading when you change the load. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- Hello everyone, I have a ZM-2 and a BLT tuner which I connect to an end fed wire of 33 feet length. Most of the antenna is outside, but it is only 10 feet above ground. I am using an inside counterpoise of 23 feet, mainly for 30M and works well on 40M too. The K-1 is for 20/15M. I notice that if I adjust either of the tuners for minimum LED brightness on 20M (the light does not go completely out) that the LCD on the K-1 shows one hatch mark when the key is closed. If I hold the key down and adjust the tuner without regard to the LED I can easily get the LCD to show 4 hatch marks. Could it be that the Z matches are so sensitive that "LED out" means 1:1 swr ratio and "on" means perhaps 1:1.3, etc. and "bright" means anything? Can I safely and to good effect tune the radio by hatch mark and ignore the LED? Why do you suppose the K-1 and Z matches don't agree? TNX for advice. Bob N5JYW Wisconsin _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
