Re: [Elecraft] Best Way to Make a 1/4-Wave Reference Wire?

2014-07-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Craig,

OK, so you want to have an electrical quarterwave resonator and 
electrical quarterwave radials.


I would suggest that you first cut two radials - make them a bit long 
and put them up at the height and slope that they will eventually be 
used.  Connect these two radials as you would a dipole - then measure 
the resonant frequency.  Adjust the length as needed to resonate at your 
desired frequency.
Note that these wires being close to the ground will not conform to the 
usual "cutting formula" of 486/frequency in MHz, so start plenty long.  
Trim the same amount from each end to keep both radials the same 
length.  You should now have 2 wires each an electrical quarterwave long 
in the position they are to be mounted.


Once you have those two radials tuned - disconnect the one connected to 
the coax center conductor (leave the one connected to the coax braid).  
Connect the center conductor to the vertical radiator and adjust the 
radiator length for resonance.
You will find this procedure in ON4UN's Low Band DXing book.  He does 
use a buried radial field to adjust the length of the radiator, but I 
assume you do not have one of those handy.


OK, you have the vertical and one radial tuned for certain - remove that 
radial and check that the other radial is also correctly tuned - adjust 
its length as needed.


If you plan more than 2 radials, tune each of them (one at a time) to 
resonate with the previously tuned vertical.  When all have been tuned, 
you may connect all the radials together.


If you want a simplified process that yields essentially the same 
results (for practical purposes) - put up the vertical radiator cut to 
the normal formula.  It may not be exactly a quarter wave, but it will 
be 'close enough' - yes it may produce something like a slightly 
off-center fed system, but it will not be so far off center to make much 
difference.
Now connecting each radial (again one at a time) trim the length of the 
radial to make the resonance point at the frequency you desire. 
Disconnect that first one and continue with all the other radials 
planned.  When finished with all of them, connect all the radials together.


That is my standard procedure for tuning elevated radials.  With 
elevated radials, only 2 are required to cancel the horizontally 
polarized radiation - if they are placed 180 degrees apart.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 7/26/2014 9:27 AM, CRAIG W BEHRENS wrote:

I'm fooling around with custom portable Vertical array antennas for portable 
and DXpedition use.
I was wondering if anyone in our list Brain trust had a favorite way to cut 
wires to a (reasonably precise) 1/4-wave length.
(Yes, I can measure and No I don't want to model, I want to field test and 
calibrate.)
What I want to do is have an elevated vertical (say base at 8'-10'), and add a temporary 
1/4-wave "reference" counterpoise wire with a 20-degree downward slope.
Then, use this set-up to adjust whatever physical items I'm using for the 
vertical element to get a 1:1 match, calibrated to the radials length.
I want to end-up with a balanced antenna that is resonant and does not require 
a tuner (given that I'll have some minor adjustments to fine-tune the antenna's 
match at different locations).
So, theoretically, the vertical could be made of 6-inch diameter aluminum 
tubing (not likely in the field), insulated or non-insulated wire of any size, 
or whatever.
I'm also curious about and I to be able to see what the differences are in the 
lengths of antennas based on what materials of different types and sizes that I 
use.



__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com


Re: [Elecraft] Best Way to Make a 1/4-Wave Reference Wire?

2014-07-26 Thread John Oppenheimer
Hi Craig,

What you are describing is an antenna in the dipole class, an antenna
with two poles. Similar to an inverted vee rotated by 225 degrees. The
half wavelength for the sum of the two elements will determine the
resonant frequency. The total length will be near the classic 468/MHz =
length in feet.

The easy way is to make the antenna a little longer, measure the
resonant frequency with an antenna analyzer, then scale to the desired
frequency, for example, for 14.05 MHz.

468 / 14.05 = 33.3' make each element 1/2 of 33.3' plus about a foot, or
17.5' each. Using an antenna analyzer, measure the resonant frequency,
it should be close to 13.4 MHz. Divide the measured frequency by the
desired frequency, for example 13.4 / 14.05 = 0.954. Multiply the start
lengths by the ratio, 17.5 * 0.954 = 16.7' for each of the two lengths.

The above antenna will require a current mode Balun, for example the
Elecraft BL2.

Also, when modeling the gain pattern, it has about a 3 dB front to back
gain ratio. The front being the side with the horizontal wire.

I hope this helps,
John KN5L

On 07/26/2014 08:27 AM, CRAIG W BEHRENS wrote:
> What I want to do is have an elevated vertical (say base at 8'-10'), and add 
> a temporary 1/4-wave "reference" counterpoise wire with a 20-degree downward 
> slope.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com


Re: [Elecraft] Best Way to Make a 1/4-Wave Reference Wire?

2014-07-26 Thread K8JHR
Interesting project.   My generalist, non-expert suggestion.  There are 
many variables you must consider, not the least of which are the 
electrical properties of the components, such as the length, velocity 
factor, diameter, resistance in circular mils, inherent impedance and 
capacitance of any conductor or radiator, the effects of any dielectric 
present, capacitive and inductive coupling with other objects in the 
vicinity, and many other factors.


I am a big fan of verticals, but I usually work in the other direction: 
 I set the length of the vertical element, and adjust the length and 
angle of the radials to effect a good match, but, it sounds like you 
want a set, or multiple sets, of known radials as an ersatz control 
group, against which you will judge the effects of different vertical 
radiators.


I suggest you consider and measure / record all the factors you can, and 
build a set of control radials for your experiments, and use them for 
each individual experiment, and see what happens.  You cannot control or 
account for all factors, but unless you start someplace, you will go no 
place.  Build a set of radials and use them as a reference, and see what 
you get... assess the data... regroup... re-formulate ... and determine 
what to do next.


I suspect the guy to ask is Rudy Severns, N6LF, who is the guru of 
vertical antenna testing.


Happy days, good luck.

  JHR -


On 7/26/2014 9:27 AM, CRAIG W BEHRENS wrote:  curious about and I to be 
able to see what the differences are in the lengths of antennas based on 
what materials of different types and sizes that I use.


> _


On 7/26/2014 9:27 AM, CRAIG W BEHRENS wrote:

I'm fooling around with custom portable Vertical array antennas for portable 
and DXpedition use.
I was wondering if anyone in our list Brain trust had a favorite way to cut 
wires to a (reasonably precise) 1/4-wave length.
(Yes, I can measure and No I don't want to model, I want to field test and 
calibrate.)
What I want to do is have an elevated vertical (say base at 8'-10'), and add a temporary 
1/4-wave "reference" counterpoise wire with a 20-degree downward slope.
Then, use this set-up to adjust whatever physical items I'm using for the 
vertical element to get a 1:1 match, calibrated to the radials length.
I want to end-up with a balanced antenna that is resonant and does not require 
a tuner (given that I'll have some minor adjustments to fine-tune the antenna's 
match at different locations).
So, theoretically, the vertical could be made of 6-inch diameter aluminum 
tubing (not likely in the field), insulated or non-insulated wire of any size, 
or whatever.
I'm also curious about and I to be able to see what the differences are in the 
lengths of antennas based on what materials of different types and sizes that I 
use.
Ideas???
Thanks.

72/73,
Craig W. Behrens--NM4TK3, KX3, K2, K1 +++   
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to jricha...@k8jhr.com


__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com