Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-02 Thread lmarion

Ouch! Sorry to hear that.
You are in the right place to get help


73   Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Ken Arck

Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 8:13 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Well Hell I just bricked my K3s

Just finished installing the 100 watt PA and all was going fine until
the 14 mHz 50 watt calibration (using the K3 Utility program). The
radio went dead and nothing I've tried brings it back to
life...GRR

I removed power completely, let it sit for 10 minutes, reconnected
and all that happens is a small thump out of the speaker when I tap
the power button. I even tried the initialization procedure in the
manual (hold the SHIFT/LO button while tapping the power and nothing
but the thump.

No USB comm either, no matter what (not surprised about that)

Ahhh well, figures on a Holiday weekend

Ken
(time to hook the TS2000 back up for the 2 mtr EME pass tomorrow)
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-02 Thread Ken Arck

Oh yes...holding POWER for more than 10 seconds does nothing either.

I have a feeling it's going back to Elecraft next week...





-Original Message- From: Ken Arck
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 8:13 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Well Hell I just bricked my K3s

Just finished installing the 100 watt PA and all was going fine until
the 14 mHz 50 watt calibration (using the K3 Utility program). The
radio went dead and nothing I've tried brings it back to
life...GRR

I removed power completely, let it sit for 10 minutes, reconnected
and all that happens is a small thump out of the speaker when I tap
the power button. I even tried the initialization procedure in the
manual (hold the SHIFT/LO button while tapping the power and nothing
but the thump.

No USB comm either, no matter what (not surprised about that)

Ahhh well, figures on a Holiday weekend

Ken
(time to hook the TS2000 back up for the 2 mtr EME pass tomorrow)
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-02 Thread Nate Bargmann
* On 2016 02 Jul 21:34 -0500, Ken Arck wrote:
> Oh yes...holding POWER for more than 10 seconds does nothing either.
> 
> I have a feeling it's going back to Elecraft next week...

How about pulling the PA out and setting the radio back to the way it
was prior to installation (it's been nearly six years since building my
K3 and I forgot the strapping, if any).

73, Nate

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-02 Thread Dave Cole
On Sat, 2016-07-02 at 19:33 -0700, Ken Arck wrote:
> Oh yes...holding POWER for more than 10 seconds does nothing
> either.
> 

What should holding power for more than 30 seconds do?

73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-03 Thread Ken Arck

Thanks to all who replied to my plea for help!

I did find the problem this morning and man, it was not what I 
expected. The problem turned out to be that power was not getting to 
the radio. Well,,, actually it WAS getting to the radio - to the 
Power Poles -  but no further. I decided to poke around a bit and 
found that the solder connection on the positive pole - it appeared 
to be cracked, perhaps from the repeated removed of the power 
connector but it seems that the added current draw of the 100 watt PA 
did the connection in one way or another. I reflowed the connection 
and the radio is once again happy.


What threw me (and why no power wasn't my first thought to check) was 
that THUMP when the power button was tapped. I guess there was a 
enough charge in some capacitor to do that. Ah well, live and learn


Again, thanks to all

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

__
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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-03 Thread lmarion
What a relief!!   I love my K3S, and hope every  ham has the pleasure of a 
high performance rig.
Another Elecraft superior moment,  it did not destroy itself and waited for 
the oops moment to pass.


Another teaching moment: Check power supply is No 1 on every trouble shoot 
chart.


Congratulations Ken and 73   Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Ken Arck

Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2016 9:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell I just bricked my K3s

Thanks to all who replied to my plea for help!

I did find the problem this morning and man, it was not what I
expected. The problem turned out to be that power was not getting to
the radio. Well,,, actually it WAS getting to the radio - to the
Power Poles -  but no further. I decided to poke around a bit and
found that the solder connection on the positive pole - it appeared
to be cracked, perhaps from the repeated removed of the power
connector but it seems that the added current draw of the 100 watt PA
did the connection in one way or another. I reflowed the connection
and the radio is once again happy.

What threw me (and why no power wasn't my first thought to check) was
that THUMP when the power button was tapped. I guess there was a
enough charge in some capacitor to do that. Ah well, live and learn

Again, thanks to all

Ken 


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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-03 Thread K9MA

On 7/3/2016 10:49, lmarion wrote:
Another teaching moment: Check power supply is No 1 on every trouble 
shoot chart. 


Or:  Check the simple stuff first.

Now, why do I keep forgetting that?

73,

Scott  K9MA

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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-03 Thread Tony Estep
On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 10:49 AM, lmarion  wrote:

> Check power supply is No 1 on every trouble shoot chart.
> 

That's the truth! A couple of years ago, my K3 would start, everything
seemed to work FB, but when I would turn on my computer the K3 would shut
off. Of course I thought something was wrong in the computer-radio
connection. But what had actually happened is that my power supply had
failed. It worked enough to start the K3 but would shut itself off if the
radio tried to draw significant current. When the computer connected, it
keyed the transmitter just for a few milliseconds, and that was enough to
make the PS click off. I went around in circles for a full day before the
light dawned.

73,
Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Well Hell.... I just bricked my K3s

2016-07-03 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
The eternal lesson, which most of us cannot convince our emotions to
believe in the time of trouble, is that most problems are not the rig
per se, but lie in all the stressed connections, etc.

*IF* I remember at the time of trouble, that the problem is likely
elsewhere, I STILL have to almost bite off my tongue to first go
looking externally and not emotionally automatically blame the box I'm
using at the moment.

Always rule out the mechanicals. This includes any cable entry
connections in the unit.

Not that there haven't been issues with my 7 year old K3 over the
years, including a couple of botched mods. A couple of years ago I
finally traced a trouble to a PL259 out in the shed I forgot to solder
in 1993 -- how many dreary criticisms can you drag out of that?
Anywhere possible, ALL of that braided coax is going away this summer.
Hardline connectors too expensive? Any flexible stuff will be flooded.
The stuff is not too expensive spread out over 20 years. And if you
now need to pay to get certain types of outdoor help from time to
time, the hardline/flooded line pays for itself the moment you install
it.

I am doing a rewire of the shack with a reverse oriented six pack so I
can switch rigs/amps to one of two hardlines going down to the ham
entry point in the garage. Among the possibilities on the times 6 side
of the 6-pack switch is a line to the work bench and a line to my AIM
4170. Some time soon I will have stored calibrations of every possible
coax path out to antennas, and stored R,X,RL curves on every antenna.
Something gets weird with an antenna, I'll switch from an amp output
to the AIM input. I'll start with the antenna and move toward the
shack.

Too much wasted time otherwise. I'm tired of shooting myself in the foot.

73, Guy K2AV


On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 12:06 PM, K9MA  wrote:
> On 7/3/2016 10:49, lmarion wrote:
>>
>> Another teaching moment: Check power supply is No 1 on every trouble shoot
>> chart.
>
>
> Or:  Check the simple stuff first.
>
> Now, why do I keep forgetting that?
>
> 73,
>
> Scott  K9MA
>
>
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