EV digest 6944

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6944

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) Carbon Fiber Batteries
by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: Ultimate magnetic motor design, CVT, controllers
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) Custom Gears
by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: Ultimate magnetic motor design, CVT, controllers
by Jack Murray [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) firefly batteries?
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) RE: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Pat Galliher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) RE: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Pat Galliher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) Re: firefly batteries?
by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Joseph Tahbaz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Re: Custom Gears
by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) Motor for mower
by Tad Coles [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: How is AGM battery perfomance impacted by orientation?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) RE: Ultimate magnetic motor design
by Dale Ulan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS  RE: Make It
by Ian Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 20) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by Bill Dube [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) RE: whats the difference between gearing a motor for speed vs  distance
by lyle sloan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---

Well, sort of, not really. This is my understanding...

Amps x Volts = Watts

What are watts? Watt is power, NOT energy!


What are amps? Well, amps are how quickly the electricity moves. More
amps, which means the electricity is moving faster, which means more
watts (power)


Now to describe voltage you'll need to understand something else
first. A Negative charge and a positive charge attract, right?  Well
the attraction between a negative and positive is voltage. That
electrical attracting force is voltage. More voltage, more force, more
watts. (power)

And when you multiply the two together you get watts!

More amps means more power, and more voltage means more power too.
Now, more amps basically creates torque, which is good for
acceleration. Using more voltage basically means more rpm (rotation
per minute) which is better for achieving a high speed. So
basically... amps= torquevoltage=rpmamps x volts=watts


AMPS seem to be how long the vehicle can go

Amps-hours is how far the vehicle can go, NOT amps. An amp-hour is one
amp running for one hour. That's all I know about amp-hours really.
(Well, there's Peukert's Exponent but that's something else.)

To everyone out there:
Please correct any mistakes I made. We can't have electrical blasphemy
on this mailing list!

On 6/24/07, Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

So far I've come to the conclusion that VOLTS is the major power
contributor, the higher the VOLTS the more power the motor can make the
vehicle go.

AMPS seem to be how long the vehicle can go, the more AMPS the batteries
have the longer the vehicle can drive before being charged.

There also seems to be some correlation with the AMPS in regards to power.

Does anyone have any quick comments or suggestive reading.

God bless


---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
I was pretty excited when I first saw these, hoping they were like the firefly 
batteries. Alas, carbon fiber refers to the decorative case. The specs seem 
pretty good.

Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in their success or failure.

http://www.brailleauto.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=16idproduct=6


  

Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the 
Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ 
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
I have just salvaged a motor like you described. Its an Intramat mac 115B  
servo motor, Its fairly heavy at about 75lbs or so. From what I can tell it has 
 
230V stator coils, PM armature, built in cooling motor, tach and encoder.  
Continuous current at 66 amps with peaks at 205 amps, unless the fan is not  
working. The bad news is its a 2000 RPM motor. So it seems powerful enough to  
drive a small EV but what can I drive it with? Must I use the encoder with a  
custom inverter or can I use a variable freq like the MES-DEA 400? Maybe its  
just better suited for a generator of some sort. It just looked too pretty to 
be 
 in the landfill. Oh and unfortunately someone got to the inverter it came 
with  before I got there.
 Rick Miller
 
 
In a message dated 6/24/2007 1:23:12 PM Central Daylight Time,  [EMAIL 

EV digest 6945

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6945

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) Re: Manly EV's,  RE: EV are for girls blog, In Training, again.
by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: Make it
by Ian Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) RE: Custom Gears
by Alan Brinkman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) RE: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Mike Willmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by gulabrao ingle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) RE: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Mike Willmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) RE: Make it
by Mike Willmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: vroombox and EV ?
by Florian Schmidt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Understanding Motor Specs Torque
by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: Manly EV's, RE: EV are for girls blog
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) 55 MPH Part II
by Rob Hogenmiller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: Understanding Motor Specs Torque
by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) Re: Manly EV's, RE: EV are for girls blog
by Tom Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---
I feel the same way. a cheaper controller certainly can be done. a lot 
cheaper
a sub 500$ zilla1k equivalent if someone foxconn'ed it (mainstream mass 
production, not typical b2b pricing mentality)


unfortunately those with experience don't want to take the 60 minutes it 
takes for them to design a simple practical circuit to this effect so 
others have to do the much greater task of getting training and 
experience first and then doing it


some few will help out a little bit if asked about something isolated 
but most here will rather fight it


Dan


Phelps wrote:
Sorry I live in your country and have different ideas than you..  
Maybe you should burn me at the stake like a witch for thinking.



Mitchell
 
---Original Message--- 
 
From: Peter VanDerWal 
Date: 6/24/2007 11:04:32 AM 
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu 
Subject: Re: Make it 
 
Imagination is the key for discovering new ideas. 
 
Making a cheaper controller is NOT a new idea. If it was practical to 
Make a controller that was significantly cheaper than existing ones, then 
The Chinese would be flooding the market with cheap controllers. 
Hell, they are quite capable of ripping off existing designs and copying 
Them. Their labor costs are cheaper, so they should be able to save a 
Bundle right? But they aren't, so ask yourself, Why not? 
Because the main reason the controllers are so expensive is because they 
Use expensive components. 
 
If you can discover a way to build them cheaper, awsome let us know. 
 
But if you are going to come here with the attitude that you are going to 
Solve this because you have more immagination than we do (or the rest of 
The world), please save the attitude until you have a working prototype to 
Display. 
 
Asking questions is great, so is learning from others. Just leave the 
Attitude at home please. 
 
  
Gee I would have thought that Imagination was the key . You have to dream 

 
  
a 
dream and then make it real... It cant be done because nobody have one 
it.. 
This is your song? 

Sounds like the world would still be flat if that was the case.. Only the 
rich and those who study at the university are cable of doing any thing 
hunn.. 

Nessesity is the mother of invention.. Which would go to reason that if a 
cheaper control; Can be made it will be by somebody that don't have one 
yet. 

Relax my friend and dream a little 

Mitchell 




---Original Message--- 





From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Date: 06/24/07 02:42:02 
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu 
Subject: Re: Make it 

Some things have change a lot in 100 years. Going 15 miles an hour was 
fast 
In 1907. When you increase the speed to today's standards it requires much



  
Higher Ah rate from the batteries. This is not a fair comparison getting 
there 
Faster is not done with the same amount of energy. 

If it was inexpensive to make the controller and could be done for what 
you 
Feel is a fair price someone would have done it. 


As pointed out below it is always more expensive to make anything in units



  
Of one. 

Don Blazer 




Which is what I am doing asking questions.. How ever .. The way I see it 
.. 
Very little has changed in the E V area if the first car made 100 years 
ago 
Could get 40 to 100 miles on a charge ,, And I am not thinking better .. I



  

Am thinking cheaper.. Which is better to me. We will see maybe I will have



  
Nothing .. But it sure don't sound like shit to me .. A switch that turns 
on 

And off for 700 bucks.. 

Mitchell 
---Original Message--- 

From: damon henry 
Date: 06/23/07 21:39:04 
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu 
Subject: Re: Make it 


Just be aware that there have been tens of thousands of people using their



  

EV digest 6946

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6946

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: 55 MPH Part II
by Tom Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) Re: 55 MPH Part II
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: Understanding Motor Specs Torque
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) RE: vroombox and EV ?
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) RE: Make it
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: Carbon Fiber Batteries
by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) RE: Make it
by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) How low can you go?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: How low can you go?
by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Re: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Brandon Kruger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) Understanding my motor (ADC L91  X91 6.7 motors revisited)
by Richard Acuti [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Brandon Kruger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: DC/AC converter (EV to Grid/Home)
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) Re: Ultimate magnetic motor design
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS  RE: Make It
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 20) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Jeff Major [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 22) Re: Make it
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---
On Mon, 2007-06-25 at 07:30 -0500, Rob Hogenmiller wrote:
 From what I've been reading it takes about 60 ft/lbs of torque to maintain 
 an average vehicle at 55mph.
 
 Or around 5-10HP.

That sounds a little low. Maybe for a small slippery car.

 I've noticed that there inexpensive motors that produce the HP ratings no 
 problem, but from what I'm reading the won't produce the torque 
 requirements, for example this motor meets the HP rating but not the torque, 
 http://www.electricmotorsport.com/PARTS/Perm.htm
 
 What other motors might I be eyeballing that could maintain 55mph?
 ( I will have the capability to use two motors, but prefer not too if not 
 necessary.)

How big are your wheels? Will you use direct drive or will you have a
reduction drive? Remember the differential on most cars has around 3:1
reduction. Assuming 3:1 reduction reduces your required motor torque by
a factor of 3 and increases the required motor speed by the same factor.

Basically, work out your required power at 55mph, use your wheel radius
to find the wheel torque and wheel speed, apply by any reduction ratio
and you'll get a motor torque and speed. Then go shopping.

If what you really want is 60ft/lbs and 10HP, then you could look at
the Siemens 1L5118: http://www.metricmind.com/motor.htm but be aware
that the maximum ratings quoted there will have quite short time
limits before the system overheats. I only point you there because I had
that page open. A motor designed for high torque, low speed operation
would suit you better.
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---

From what I've been reading it takes about 60 ft/lbs of torque to
 maintain
 an average vehicle at 55mph.

 Or around 5-10HP.


HP = torque x RPM

If the motor has the HP to maintain the speed, but the torque is low, that
just means that the RPM is too high.  Gear the RPM down and the torque
goes up by the same factor.

I.e. 1 HP = 5252 ft/lbs per minute.
That would either be 5252 ft/lbs of torque at 1 RPM, or 1 ft/lb of torque
at 5252 RPM or 100 ft/lbs of torque at 52.52 RPM

So let's say your vehicle requires 8hp to go 55mph and that this works out
to 60 ft/lbs of torque at 700 rpm wheels.  Let's say your motor 8hp, but
it's at 10 ft/lbs of torque and 4200 RPM.  What you need is a transmission
(belt drive, chain drive, gears, etc.) with a 6:1 reduction ratio.  That
will reduce the RPM from 4200 to 700 and increase your torque from 10
ft/lbs to 60 ft/lbs.
8HP into the transmission, 8HP out.  The universe is happy and everything
works out.


 I've noticed that there inexpensive motors that produce the HP ratings no
 problem, but from what I'm reading the won't produce the torque
 requirements, for example this motor meets the HP rating but not the
 torque,
 http://www.electricmotorsport.com/PARTS/Perm.htm

 What other motors might I be eyeballing that could maintain 55mph?
 ( I will have the capability to use two motors, but prefer not too if not
 necessary.)

 I have a near unlimited run to reach 55mph so it's not important that I
 have
 a motor that help me reach 55mph quickly (I'll be using a gas engine to
 propel me to speed), I'm hoping to find one the will help me maintain that
 speed, to do some testing of theories on a budget.

 

EV digest 6947

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6947

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: How low can you go?
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) RE: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by Beth Silverman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: Understanding my motor (ADC L91  X91 6.7 motors revisited)
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: 55 MPH Part III
by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) Selling or buying an EV
by bruce parmenter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) RE: Selling or buying an EV
by Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) Vectrix demo
by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) 1200 Raptor help !
by Jeff Mccabe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS  RE: Make It
by Ian Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Re: vroombox and EV ?
by john fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: Make it
by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) Re: Understanding my motor (ADC L91  X91 6.7 motors revisited)
by Jeff Major [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: 55 MPH Part III Oops - equation error
by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) More folks converting cars to electric...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 20) New EV controller to hit the market
by Michael Barkley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 22) Re: 55 MPH Part III
by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 23) Re: Selling or buying an EV
by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 24) Re: vroombox and EV ?
by GWMobile [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The Optima data sheet indicates that 10.5 volts is the cut off low 
voltage for the reserve capacity.


Should that voltage also be considered the maximum “sag” voltage during 
a high current draw regardless of the state of charge or sag time?


Yes; 10.5v is a good safe cutoff voltage regardless of current. You are 
very unlikely to reverse a cell if you don't go below this.


If you *know* all cells are matched, and are trying to produce big 
numbers for a data sheet, you can discharge below this point. Battery 
manufacturers do this on their data sheets to inflate the amphour ratings.


The real danger is that when a cell goes completely dead, it develops 
high resistance. The other cells in series with it, that still have 
charge, will force current to keep flowing through the dead cell. This 
high current and high resistance cause severe heating in the dead cell. 
The plates will warp, it will boil its electrolyte, and things will get 
very bad very fast!


So, the 10.5v limit comes from the assumption that 1 cell out of the 6 
in a 12v battery has gone dead. The 5 good ones are still delivering 2v 
each (2 x 5 = 10v) and there is just 0.5v left across the dead one (1 x 
0.5v = 0.5v), so there is 10.5v across the battery as a whole.


--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in--Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
Solectria is not out of business -- we merged with Azure Dynamics in
2005.  

We are still at the same building where Solectria moved in 2001, outside
of Boston, Massachusetts.  

Beth Silverman

***

-Original Message-
From: Lee Hart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 10:53 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise

gulabrao ingle wrote:
 I was reading the other day of a car known as the Solectria Sunrise, 
 but surprisingly there is no information available about the 
 specifications of the car or how it could get 375 miles on a single 
 charge.

Solectria is out of business, so most of what you find is old
information.

 Where can I get detailed information, blue prints, technical 
 specifications or even some hi-res photos of this car?

 From me! :-) I'm heading a team that is making a kit-car version of the
Sunrise.

 Are there any owners of this car on the list at present?

Yes, a number were sold to individuals. Stephen Taylor's is on the web
at http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/655

 What was so special about the construction of this car that it could 
 get 375 miles on a charge?

The Sunrise is an example of what Amory Lovins calls a hypercar. The
entire chassis and body are carbon fiber composites, very light and
strong, weighing about 400 lbs. It was designed from scratch as an EV,
and so avoided the usual losses and inefficiencies of the make do 
parts you find in 

EV digest 6948

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6948

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) EVgrin - RAVolt takes first EV trip
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
by MIKE WILLMON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: 55 MPH Part III
by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) Re: Over-volted ADC: Warranty issue
by Chuck Hursch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: firefly batteries?
by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) Re: Selling or buying an EV
by Tom Shay [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: 55 MPH Part II
by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Re: vroombox and EV ?
by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) Re: firefly batteries?
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) Re: Selling or buying an EV
by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: Selling or buying an EV
by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Controler
by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) Re: 55 MPH Part III
by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: Controler
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) how to control my separately excited DC motor
by Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: Controler
by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) RE: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 20) Re: Controler
by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) Re: Controler
by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 22) Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---

All,

I know the list loves good news: the RAVolt made her maiden voyage  
over the weekend!


YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUv3wZQTcQE

Rob H
RAVolt.com  EValbum 995
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
You (and Dan) are correct.  What I meant to state is that the charge flows 
near the speed of light and thus carries to the conclusion that Amps (or 
electrical current) is a measure of the amount of charge that flows past a 
certain point in 1 second.  A coulomb of charge being equal to that of 6.023^23 
electrons.  I didn't mean to get into the tricky details of electron drift, 
which as you say can be on the order of mm/sec.

The analogy that works for me is that of the little contraption with the steel 
balls suspended in a straight line from some string.  Swing 1 ball out and let 
it go.  It contacts the mass of other balls and (almost) instantly the Energy 
is transfered to the ball on the opposite end and it flies up into the air.  
Now the number of balls (analogy for the electrons)  that move from one end of 
the line to the other is small (zero in this case).  But the energy contained 
in the original ball  has moved almost instantaneously.

Without getting too technical but trying to remain technically correct, I meant 
to state that the propagation velocity of the charges remain nearly the same, 
at a high percentage of the speed of light,  in a constant medium.

Thanks for the correction.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

- Original Message -
From: Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:01 am
Subject: Re: VOLTS vs AMPS
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu

 So you know, the speed at which electrons are moving in the 
 conductoris a few millimeters per second.
 
 What you probably refer to is the time electric (or electromagnetic
 if AC) field propagation speed which makes electrons start moving -
 that is at light speed. Therefore you see light few miles away goes on
 as soon as you flip remote switch despite actual electrons moving
 few mm/sec. Not very accurate but obvious analogy is moving
 water in a pipe - assuming water is not compressible (which is
 almost he case), it can start flowing out of a mile long pipe
 as soon as you start pumping it in in the other end, though the
 rate of the water flow itself may be few inches per sec.
 
 Victor
 
 p.s. Without digging too deep, electrons themselves are not moving
 anywhere - their charge get carried from one to another and charge
 has no mass. If electrons were to move, the mass of conductor would
 have measurable weight change (you can cram in more than you take out
 but no one was able to detect any weight difference between charged
 and neutral conductor), not to mention that material itself would
 become different - copper with lost valence electrons is no longer
 really a copper...
 
 
 
 Mike Willmon wrote:
  To be technically correct electrons flow the same speed in a 
 particular medium, which is some relatively high percentage of the
  speed of light.  Amps (or electrical current) is a measure of the 
 amount of electrons that flow past a certain point in 1 second.
  More amps is more electrons per second
  
  Joseph Tahbaz wrote:
 
  What are amps? Well, amps are how quickly the electricity moves. 
 More amps, which means the electricity is 

EV digest 6949

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6949

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: firefly batteries?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) RE: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) RE: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) Re: Controler
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by jerryd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) Re: Controler
by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: EVgrin - RAVolt takes first EV trip
by Joseph T.  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Re: Understanding my motor (ADC L91  X91 6.7' motors revisited)
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) Data Logging for Zilla
by Mark Eidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) Re: Data Logging for Zilla
by MIKE WILLMON [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS  RE: Make It
by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) Re: EVgrin - RAVolt takes first EV trip
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: Controler
by Phelps [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) TdS Report #10: Photos - West Philadelphia High School K1 Attack
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: firefly batteries?
by Joseph T.  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) Re: Data Logging for Zilla
by Joseph T.  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 20) An Ebay find?
by Tom Gocze [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 21) Re: Manly EV's, RE: EV are for girls blog
by Loni [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---
Hello Lawrence
 
One other difference then regular lead batteries. If I remember right they  
were to weigh like 1/4 the weight of lead acid batteries. 
 
I read about these at least 2 or 3 years ago. They even had the city they  
were in investing money into the new company. You would think they would have a 
 
battery out by now?
 
Don Blazer
 
In a message dated 6/25/2007 2:11:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
If what they say is true there won't be  any difference between them and
regular lead batteries except capacity,  durability  reliability.  I suspect
they won't even need  regulators.  Lawrence Rhodes
- Original Message - 
From:  Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:  ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 8:22 PM
Subject:  firefly batteries?


 Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on  these?  I sort of have an in
 with the company to test some in my EV  (probably about 5 or 10%
 probability, but that's better than no  contacts)... but as of yet all
 I've seen is hype, not specs. BMS  required?  Discharge rate?  cycles?
 Thermal management?   Not even sure if they really exist yet  I
 supposed I could ask  my contact there, but I figured someone on this
 list might have already  researched them more than I have.

 Z

 



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
Unfortunately the pack on there now is shot with only a mile or two of
range.   I'll try to give this a try and report back.  Thanks for the
info.
Garret

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 12:35 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek

Hello Garret

If it is a smart controller  it will not allow your batteries to be over

charged during regen. Have you tried  running down the batteries to say
60% and 
then try?

Don Blazer
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
Rick, 
I think I've got all this configured.  I am using footbrake with a pot.
Honestly considering the minor stopping force I am getting now, there is
no advantage to the pot or over a switch, I am applying it full now with
little affect so being able to taper the regen isn't useful yet.  I'll
try to drain the batteries more and try it again.  I have the calibrator
on loan right now, but need to return it soon. 
-Garret

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 4:39 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek

The Sevcon Millipak is a very smart controller. It is basically made for

fork truck and Walkie operation which means it has features you'll never
use. It  
is not really set up to be a electric vehicle controller but with all of
the  
features it can work very well as one. 
Sevcon Millipak braking levels are set using personalities 1.01, 1.02
and  
1.03. each is stated in %.
1.01 is direction braking, it is activated by going from forward to
reverse.
1.02 is Neutral braking level, it is activated by going to drive to
neutral.
1.03 Footbrake braking, for use if you have a footbrake configured.
Choose 100% for maximum braking or lower for less braking. 
There are also 

EV digest 6950

2007-06-25 Thread Electric Vehicle Discussion List

EV Digest 6950

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Make it
by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  2) RE: Data Logging for Zilla
by Claudio Natoli [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  3) Re: Manly EV's, RE: EV are for girls blog
by Loni [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) Re: regarding the Solectria Sunrise
by Loni [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  5) Re: firefly batteries?
by Bruce Weisenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  6) Re: Controler
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  7) Re: Make it
by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  8) Re: Manly EV's, RE: EV are for girls blog
by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  9) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 10) RE: Make it
by Mike Willmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 11) Re: Cheap balancer for A123 pack
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 12) RE: Data Logging for Zilla
by Mike Willmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 13) Re: firefly batteries?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 14) RE: FW: Regen with Sevcon and Etek
by Garret Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 15) Re: Make it
by Dan Frederiksen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 16) Re: EVgrin - RAVolt takes first EV trip
by Tony Hwang [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: VOLTS vs AMPS  RE: Make It
by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
---BeginMessage---

Well this isn't the first time controller design has come up.

The microcontroller, or any method of generating PWM, is only one aspect 
of design and frankly it's small beans compared to the other parts of 
the design.  We had a thread going for awhile where some of us were 
talking about the merits of a microcontroller and others die-hard 
against anything but a discrete component design.  I had to point out 
periodically that the original poster on the subject seemed to have the 
missed the point that the greatest, most well-featured PWM generator 
ever only scratches the surface of controller design so all the debate 
was beside the point.


The thermal issues, power stage, PCB design, and especially the gate 
driver are quite tough.  Even case design and connecting a huge cable to 
a thin PCB are tricky.  OK, not rocket science, many designers around 
who can make a complete design, simulate the transistor on computer and 
all.  I don't want to dismiss it as an impossible task.  An experienced 
designer still won't be able to make a cheap 1 amp ripple cap handle 10 
amps and won't be able to get the 120A out of the 120A transistor with 
the 76A leads.  But they can tell you what will work, and that will 
likely require much more expensive components that you have laid out.


Danny

Dan Frederiksen wrote:

Granted I'm coming from the outside and many aspects are unknown to me 
but I'm no dummy and I still believe it can be done and you are just 
naysaying because the vision is not clear to you.
It's true I was disappointed to hear of the need for high derating but 
I did already know about it in the small packages and I'm not sure I 
got a satisfactory answer from Lee whether derating was just as bad in 
the large IGBT modules like int-A and above. more importantly though 
the price did not triple as you suggest since Oatmeal has said that 
the IGBTs he uses for a zilla1k cost him 165$. so you're wrong.


Similarly JB Straubel's ad hoc controller seemed very simple. the kind 
of simple I'm aiming for although I wouldn't be using 6 500A modules!
A smart man could easily convey the needed knowledge to someone like 
me. Genius makes the complex simple.


The reason I'm not so concerned with the microcontroller code is that 
I've already done some experimentation with an AVR. I am a computer 
scientist.


It's a common fallacy to blindly trust those that went before.I've 
heard that the reality of flight was denied even years after the 
wright brothers flew. that despite public demonstrations the press 
wouldn't cover it because it was known to be impossible. don't be that 
monkey


Dan

Eric Poulsen wrote:


Dan,

You're not asking for a meatloaf recipe.   To be frank, you're 
naivete in the area of power electronics (1) leads you to believe 
that controllers should be much cheaper than they really are.
I'm personally developing a MOSFET based controller for my own use, 
but I am documenting my progress (nuancesystems.net).  Right now, 
there isn't much there, but when I have a barely-working prototype 
up, I'll post more information than you can shake a stick at.


Having said that, I've done many _MANY_ hours of research, and put 
many hours into my shop (garage) measuring, cutting, drilling, 
mounting, testing, etc.  I've also put a lot of $$$ into it, and I'm 
realizing that while a lot of that money is a good investment (tools, 
etc), there are a lot of failed experiments that lead ... nowhere.  
And that's just for the mechanical layout.


The task you're speaking of is not a 60 minute job.   You _will_not_ 
find a simple and practical design for a 320KW controller.


With regard to help out a little bit, it's a bit