Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[Lee Hart via EV]

Lee Hart via EV wrote:

But if you're determined to proceed, I think the modifications were
written up and are in the EVDL "files" section somewhere.



EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

http://evdl.org/pages/iotamods.html


That's it! Thanks, David. :-)


Another approach that will probably provoke some controversy here is to tap
your battery at the DC:DC's nominal voltage.


That's a bad way to do it. It's almost certain to unbalance the pack. If 
you have some kind of balancer, it may be able to hold the pack in 
balance despite the unbalanced load. Then again, maybe it can't; and you 
murder your pack.



Yet another way to do it, crude and somewhat wasteful, might be to build a
lossy regulator circuit to drop the battery voltage to the DC:DC's voltage.


That could work, if the load is small. Or if you use a switchmode buck 
converter to step down the pack voltage to something your DC/DC 
converter can handle.



Here's still another thought.  I have a slightly-used Todd PC20LV 96-volt
DC:DC here, and also a used Curtis 1400E 72-96 volt DC:DC. Both were in
working condition last time I checked (January 2019).  You might be able to
connect each to half the battery, and sum their outputs through diodes.


That's possible. However, the two DC/DC converters are not likely to 
track, or have any way to make them share the load equally. But you 
could use two identical supplies that have provisions for paralleling.


Lee Hart

--
A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is
nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
-- Antoine de Saint Exupery
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[George Tyler via EV]

Many devices are 88 to 264V, that will just work.  


-Original Message-
From: EV On Behalf Of paul dove via EV
Sent: Friday, 28 August 2020 6:30 am
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Cc: paul dove ; David Delman 
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

 The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V AC.

The standard U.S. AC outlet voltage is 120VAC rms +-10% The peak voltage is 
Vrms x sqrt 2 = Vrms x 1.414.

120Vrms = 170Vpeak
240Vrms = 340Vpeak

Many devices that use AC wall power have a simple bridge rectifier or bridge 
doubler at the input.
The bridge rectifier will peak detect the AC, creating a voltage that is 170DC 
with a lower valley due to ripple. 
DC voltage will pass through the bridge.
Thus you need an ~170VDC source to equal the rectified 120VAC voltage.
202VDC would be too much and most likely blow something


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Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[Mr. Sharkey via EV]

> tap your battery at the DC:DC's nominal voltage

nonononono, don't ever do this

I thought I would save some bother and tapped five of my 18 T-105's 
(yeah, lead, I know, but) to run the E-Meter on my car. My attitude 
was "how bad could it be?"


Very bad. The brand new battery pack failed in less than two months 
and I had to purchase five new T-105's to revive it. Not optimal.


OK, so I did this with lead. Try it with Lithium and trust the BMS to 
keep the cells balanced? Never! Never again!


Just go buy the correct DC-DC and do it right. Life is too short for 
short cuts that make you suffer and have to do it all over again.


(I ended up purchasing a $12 isolated DC-DC and running the E-Meter 
off the aux battery. 20 years later, it's still in there doing its 
job. That lesson cost me about $488 more than it should have.)


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Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 27 Aug 2020 at 14:11, Lee Hart via EV wrote:

> But if you're determined to proceed, I think the modifications were 
> written up and are in the EVDL "files" section somewhere.
> 

http://evdl.org/pages/iotamods.html

Another approach that will probably provoke some controversy here is to tap 
your battery at the DC:DC's nominal voltage.  This will create an imbalance 
in the battery.  How bad that imbalance is depends in part on how much power 
you need from your DC:DC.

Yet another way to do it, crude and somewhat wasteful, might be to build a 
lossy regulator circuit to drop the battery voltage to the DC:DC's voltage. 

Here's still another thought.  I have a slightly-used Todd PC20LV 96-volt 
DC:DC here, and also a used Curtis 1400E 72-96 volt DC:DC. Both were in 
working condition last time I checked (January 2019).  You might be able to 
connect each to half the battery, and sum their outputs through diodes. Not 
100% sure, but I think you can trim the Todd's output to try to balance them 
a little better, so they share the current more evenly.  If you're 
interested in trying this, contact me off-list (see the bottom of 
evdl.org/help ).  I'll let them go pretty cheaply.

David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey

To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my 
offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt

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 Estimated yearly US cost to safeguard Persian Gulf oil supply:
 $50 billion
 Estimated 2001 value of US crude oil imports from Persian Gulf: 
 $19 billion

 -- Harper's Index, April 2002
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Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[Lee Hart via EV]

paul dove via EV wrote:

The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V AC...
Thus you need an ~170VDC source to equal the rectified 120VAC voltage.
202VDC would be too much and most likely blow something


I agree. I've reverse-engineered some of the Iota DLS-supplies, and all 
of them had a simple bridge rectifier that feeds 200vdc rated filter 
capacitors.


I have modified these supplies for higher-voltage DC operation, but it's 
a lot of work. There are quite a few parts to change. In the end, I 
don't think it was worth the trouble.


But if you're determined to proceed, I think the modifications were 
written up and are in the EVDL "files" section somewhere.


Lee Hart

--
A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is
nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
-- Antoine de Saint Exupery
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[paul dove via EV]

 The DLS-55 is designed to run off of 120V AC.

The standard U.S. AC outlet voltage is 120VAC rms +-10%
The peak voltage is Vrms x sqrt 2 = Vrms x 1.414.

120Vrms = 170Vpeak
240Vrms = 340Vpeak

Many devices that use AC wall power have a simple bridge rectifier or bridge 
doubler at the input.
The bridge rectifier will peak detect the AC, creating a voltage that is 170DC 
with a lower valley due to ripple. 
DC voltage will pass through the bridge.
Thus you need an ~170VDC source to equal the rectified 120VAC voltage.
202VDC would be too much and most likely blow something

On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 1:10:00 PM CDT, David Delman via EV 
 wrote:  
 
 I am in the process of changing my 156v DC lead-acid eLectric DeLorean to 
lithium. I am using eight Tesla Battery Modules for a total of ~202v DC 
maximum.

Previously I was using an Iota  DLS-55 to keep my auxiliary battery 
charged. It worked great and fit well too.

Is there a way to run the Iota off the new, higher pack voltage?

Thank you,

David Delman
eLectricDeLorean.com
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[EVDL] DC - DC Iota DLS-55/IQ4

[David Delman via EV]

I am in the process of changing my 156v DC lead-acid eLectric DeLorean to 
lithium. I am using eight Tesla Battery Modules for a total of ~202v DC 
maximum.


Previously I was using an Iota  DLS-55 to keep my auxiliary battery 
charged. It worked great and fit well too.


Is there a way to run the Iota off the new, higher pack voltage?

Thank you,

David Delman
eLectricDeLorean.com
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