Have to say that there is an incredible cascade of synaptic firing while surfing. It's sex on the level of the spermatoza; some impossibly big and absolutely crucial thing is happening, bigger than you can possibly imagine, and you're totally part of it, even the focus of it in your own little erratic trajectory and who knows where you're going but Wow! is it great, and don't ever stop whatever this thing is because it's as right as right can be.
Just a thought I had on the way back from surfing yesterday. Top day.
