[filmscanners] SS4000 again

2004-02-24 Thread Rob Geraghty
I gather nobody on the list has attempted to clean the CCD of a SS4000?

Rob


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[filmscanners] Epson 4870

2004-02-24 Thread
I have a friend in his 70's who just bought an Epson 4870 Scanner based
on my recommendation to scan his library of slides. I thought a
dedicated slide neg scanner like the LS5000 would be too complicated for
him to utilize, and warned him that flatbeds aren't as sharp in scanning
slides as dedicated slide scanners.

Now he can't figure out how to scan slides. He lives in Washington
State, and I'm in Calif. I own the Epson 2450 and the LS4000, not the
4870, so I can't tell him flat out how to do it.

I've given him website and phone info to contact Epson. But does anyone
have this scanner who can explain how to scan slides with it in
layperson terms?

I'd much appreciate it.
Paul Sivley


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[filmscanners] Re: SS4000 again

2004-02-24 Thread Arthur Entlich
Not having lived to talk about it ;-)

Are you getting halos around bright areas?

Why do you think it needs cleaning?

Art

Rob Geraghty wrote:
 I gather nobody on the list has attempted to clean the CCD of a SS4000?

 Rob



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[filmscanners] Re: Another lurker seeking advice

2004-02-24 Thread Paul Roberts
looks familiar?

http://www.jessops.com/search/viewproduct.cfm?PRODUCT=REFD3600SMS

http://www.braun-phototechnik.de/E/Products/scanner/scanner.htm

http://www.reflecta.de/htms.com/p_fil09.htm

reflecta seem to sell branded versions of the pacific imaging range, as do jessops 
(major UK photographic retailer)

I did read press releases that Braun bought the 3600 scanner out a few months back.

possibly it's a collaboration as the scanner looks very like a Braun paximat projector.
http://www.braun-phototechnik.de/E/Products/PaximatMutimag/Default.htm

Best Wishes

Paul Roberts =^_^=
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: Ed Lusby [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 8:38 PM
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Another lurker seeking advice


It's good to have the company of another lurker. I did find one other
scanner with bulk feeding capabilities, the Pacific Image Powerslide 3600
USB/1394 interface (3600dpi).  The one good thing about this scanner is
price:  less than $700!  It has the ability to use a slide magazine or a
carousel to scan 50-100 slides at a time.  However, as you probably know,
Pacific Imaging isn't exactly the Cadillac of the scanner
world.  Nonetheless, if I need to scan a lot of slides, I'm going to take a
close look at this instrument.
The website is  http://www.scanace.com.   Apparently the same scanner is
also distributed by Scan Smart, according to a usenet posting.  I believe
it just came out, or is about to come out. In any case, I haven't found
much information on it, save the company website.

I was trying to decide largely between the Nikon 5000 and the Minolta 5400.
However, I don't think the Nikon is available yet in the US (?). My local
camera store in San Diego said it hasn't been released yet, and it isn't
available at BH, the only mail order place I'm willing to deal with.  Sooo,
I ordered the 5400 from BH, as my local store was out of stock.  I also
ordered the Monaco EZ Color and Optix-xr combo package ($75 rebate
currently! and BH sells this for $150 less than Monaco), and the ektachrome
and kodachrome it8 targets.

An interesting site with photos comparing the 5400 with the LS4000 is:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~bvdwolf/main/foto/scan/se5400/se5400-5.htm

I was dubious that the 5400 could even resolve more than the 4000dpi
scanners, but it appears it can. I also like the way the diffuser minimizes
grain.

Cheers,
Ed





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[filmscanners] Re: SS4000 again

2004-02-24 Thread Johnny Johnson
At 10:49 PM 2/24/2004 +1000, Rob Geraghty wrote:

I gather nobody on the list has attempted to clean the CCD of a SS4000?

Rob



Hi Rob,

The following was posted in January of '03 on this List by Thomas Maugham:

Summary of SS4000 cleaning discussion.

HOW DO I KNOW IF MY SCANNER NEEDS CLEANING? By opening the unit and
examining the optical mirror.  Or, if you want a preliminary idea of how
dirty the mirror may be before taking this step, look at the amount of dust
underneath your scanner.  If you do not use a dustcover, this is likely to
be a good indicator of how much dust may be on the optical lens and mirror.
(this is because the scanner has open holes and serves as a dust collector,
unless you have a dust cover)

HOW DO I OPEN THE UNIT FOR EXAMINATION AND CLEANING?  First, get the scanner
unplugged from the computer and out on a clear well lit table where you can
work on it.  Turn the scanner upside down, you will see four plastic catches
on the bottom sides near the corners.  A small flat screwdriver can be used
to pop open these catches.  Be careful not to break them.  Once you have
released the catches and have slid the top off, you will see the mechanism.
The top cover and main chassis will, of course, still be connected by
various wires. Connect the power cord to the unit and press the power button
on.   The scanner will attempt to go through one cycle.  Be observant, at
one point the optical mirror will be perfectly revealed.  It may take a few
tries to see how it works.  As soon as the mirror is perfectly accessible,
pull the power cord so it freezes in that position.

HOW DO I CLEAN THE OPTICAL MIRROR?  With compressed air.  Air comes in two
forms, a compressor or a can of dust-off available from camera stores, etc.
If you have compressor, set to about 40 lbs of air pressure.  I recommend
you use a medical compressor because it does not have oil pistons.
(Regular air compressors sold for general machine or airbrush use have oil
pistons, so make sure your compressor does not emit tiny oil droplets out
the nozzle)  If you use the canned air, remember not to hold the can at an
angle because some of these squirt a liquid out if held at angles other than
generally vertical.  Perhaps you can put the scanner on it's side while
blowing the dust away.  Another suggestion for canned air is to put a
downward bend in the tube that is used to extend the nozzle, you can do this
while slightly heating the tube with a match.  Blow off the mirror and lens
real good.

WHAT IT THE MIRROR NEEDS FURTHER CLEANING?  Then you need denatured alcohol
available from hardware or paint stores (which is NOT drugstore isopropyl
alcohol).  Use lens cleaning tissue, and put a little denatured alcohol on
the tissue.  Fold the tissue over and drag it across the mirror using no
pressure.  Do not get the alcohol on plastic parts or let it get behind the
mirror, or let it drip all over everything.  Use each tissue only once and
discard.

WHAT CAN I DO TO KEEP THE UNIT IN GOOD CONDITION?   make a plastic
dustcover.  Or, put it in a plastic bag when not using it.  Anything to keep
dust from getting into it is a good thing.

This is not authorized factory service information.   I am not qualified to
do anything, I have no education, I don't know anything.  These are
practical suggestions for do-it-yourselfers and are based on my personal
experience of doing it.  My remarks about cleaning the mirror come from
questioning a life-long camera repairman.   I have no factory training or
information.  There are many people on this list who are scanner scientists
and mechanics and can probably offer better information, so let's hope to
hear from them.

Later,
Johnny

__
Johnny Johnson
Lilburn, GA
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[filmscanners] Topic: SS4000 again

2004-02-24 Thread
Arthur Entlich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Not having lived to talk about it ;-)
Are you getting halos around bright areas?
Why do you think it needs cleaning?

Because I had the case open to blow dust out of the stupid carrier sensor
and had a look through to the CCD - or perhaps the mirror.  I'm not au fait
enough with the guts of the unit to know whether what I was seeing was the
mirror or the CCD.  If the former, the design is slightly smarter than it
looked because it would mean that the CCD wasn't facing up and collecting
dust.  On the other hand, I don't know why *any* of the light detecting
system is arranged to collect dust - including the carrier sensor and the
mirror (if that's what I was looking at).

The users were complaining that it wouldn't focus.  I figure that after
2 years of collecting dust it probably is dirty enough to affect the autofocus
mechanism.

Johnny Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The following was posted in January of '03 on this List by Thomas Maugham:

Thanks for the info.  I still don't like the idea of using a 1000KPa air
stream to blow the dust off a high resolution optical device.  It's more
likely to damage it than clean it.  I'm equally dubious about taking responsibility
for sticking lens cleaning tissue into the unit with alcohol (which may
affect lens coatings) or any other sort of lens cleaning fluid on it.  Since
I'm told that the ICU has plenty of money, they can pay to send it to the
vendor for maintenance.

But I do appreciate the info for future reference. :)

Regards,
Rob


-
How do you know if you never try?
(Rob Geraghty 25 June 2002)



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[filmscanners] RE: SS4000 again--use caution when opening the case

2004-02-24 Thread Stan Schwartz
PLEASE:  we should add  to this:

After you have release the catches, slide the cover off very slowly and
use a penlight to visualize the wires connecting the switch under the
cover to the main unit. These wires are short and if the cover is
removed in certain directions, one or more of these wires will be pulled
taut and the soldered connection will break.

 The wires are too short for the cover to be moved very far at all.
Indeed, these wires seem to be designed to make the unwary user regret
ever opening the case.

Alternatively, you may wish to include a recommendation to have a small
soldering iron available to resolder these wires. (What a pain that
was)

Stan Schwartz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Johnny Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: SS4000 again


At 10:49 PM 2/24/2004 +1000, Rob Geraghty wrote:

I gather nobody on the list has attempted to clean the CCD of a SS4000?

Rob



Hi Rob,

The following was posted in January of '03 on this List by Thomas
Maugham:

Summary of SS4000 cleaning discussion.

HOW DO I KNOW IF MY SCANNER NEEDS CLEANING? By opening the unit and
examining the optical mirror.  Or, if you want a preliminary idea of how
dirty the mirror may be before taking this step, look at the amount of
dust underneath your scanner.  If you do not use a dustcover, this is
likely to be a good indicator of how much dust may be on the optical
lens and mirror. (this is because the scanner has open holes and serves
as a dust collector, unless you have a dust cover)

HOW DO I OPEN THE UNIT FOR EXAMINATION AND CLEANING?  First, get the
scanner unplugged from the computer and out on a clear well lit table
where you can work on it.  Turn the scanner upside down, you will see
four plastic catches on the bottom sides near the corners.  A small flat
screwdriver can be used to pop open these catches.  Be careful not to
break them.  Once you have released the catches and have slid the top
off, you will see the mechanism. The top cover and main chassis will, of
course, still be connected by various wires. Connect the power cord to
the unit and press the power button
on.   The scanner will attempt to go through one cycle.  Be observant,
at
one point the optical mirror will be perfectly revealed.  It may take a
few tries to see how it works.  As soon as the mirror is perfectly
accessible, pull the power cord so it freezes in that position.

HOW DO I CLEAN THE OPTICAL MIRROR?  With compressed air.  Air comes in
two forms, a compressor or a can of dust-off available from camera
stores, etc. If you have compressor, set to about 40 lbs of air
pressure.  I recommend you use a medical compressor because it does not
have oil pistons. (Regular air compressors sold for general machine or
airbrush use have oil pistons, so make sure your compressor does not
emit tiny oil droplets out the nozzle)  If you use the canned air,
remember not to hold the can at an angle because some of these squirt a
liquid out if held at angles other than generally vertical.  Perhaps you
can put the scanner on it's side while blowing the dust away.  Another
suggestion for canned air is to put a downward bend in the tube that is
used to extend the nozzle, you can do this while slightly heating the
tube with a match.  Blow off the mirror and lens real good.

WHAT IT THE MIRROR NEEDS FURTHER CLEANING?  Then you need denatured
alcohol available from hardware or paint stores (which is NOT drugstore
isopropyl alcohol).  Use lens cleaning tissue, and put a little
denatured alcohol on the tissue.  Fold the tissue over and drag it
across the mirror using no pressure.  Do not get the alcohol on plastic
parts or let it get behind the mirror, or let it drip all over
everything.  Use each tissue only once and discard.

WHAT CAN I DO TO KEEP THE UNIT IN GOOD CONDITION?   make a plastic
dustcover.  Or, put it in a plastic bag when not using it.  Anything to
keep dust from getting into it is a good thing.

This is not authorized factory service information.   I am not qualified
to
do anything, I have no education, I don't know anything.  These are
practical suggestions for do-it-yourselfers and are based on my personal
experience of doing it.  My remarks about cleaning the mirror come from
questioning a life-long camera repairman.   I have no factory training
or
information.  There are many people on this list who are scanner
scientists and mechanics and can probably offer better information, so
let's hope to hear from them.

Later,
Johnny

__
Johnny Johnson
Lilburn, GA
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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filmscanners' or 'unsubscribe filmscanners_digest' (as appropriate) in
the message title or body



[filmscanners] Re: Topic: SS4000 again

2004-02-24 Thread Arthur Entlich
Somewhere in the archives of this list there was a discussion about
cleaning front surface mirrors, I believe.  I think a camera repairman
provided a primer on the method without damaging the surface.

You may be correct that the inability to autofocus might be dirt on
either the mirror or the CCD.  However, the way the SS4000 works, the
stage moves to focus the image, not the lens.  As I recall, the CCD does
face down, but the mirror is semi-upright.

check out this discussion:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001zNY


There is some discussion of how to open the case, and a bit about the
layout.

Art

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Arthur Entlich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not having lived to talk about it ;-)
Are you getting halos around bright areas?
Why do you think it needs cleaning?


 Because I had the case open to blow dust out of the stupid carrier sensor
 and had a look through to the CCD - or perhaps the mirror.  I'm not au fait
 enough with the guts of the unit to know whether what I was seeing was the
 mirror or the CCD.  If the former, the design is slightly smarter than it
 looked because it would mean that the CCD wasn't facing up and collecting
 dust.  On the other hand, I don't know why *any* of the light detecting
 system is arranged to collect dust - including the carrier sensor and the
 mirror (if that's what I was looking at).

 The users were complaining that it wouldn't focus.  I figure that after
 2 years of collecting dust it probably is dirty enough to affect the autofocus
 mechanism.

 Johnny Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The following was posted in January of '03 on this List by Thomas Maugham:


 Thanks for the info.  I still don't like the idea of using a 1000KPa air
 stream to blow the dust off a high resolution optical device.  It's more
 likely to damage it than clean it.  I'm equally dubious about taking responsibility
 for sticking lens cleaning tissue into the unit with alcohol (which may
 affect lens coatings) or any other sort of lens cleaning fluid on it.  Since
 I'm told that the ICU has plenty of money, they can pay to send it to the
 vendor for maintenance.

 But I do appreciate the info for future reference. :)

 Regards,
 Rob




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[filmscanners] Re: SS4000 again--use caution when opening the case

2004-02-24 Thread Arthur Entlich
If I recall correctly, this problem with short wires was an early
version design flaw which Polaroid/Microtek corrected, and had a recall
on some years ago.

But some may still have the problem, so its a good warning.

Art

Stan Schwartz wrote:

 PLEASE:  we should add  to this:

 After you have release the catches, slide the cover off very slowly and
 use a penlight to visualize the wires connecting the switch under the
 cover to the main unit. These wires are short and if the cover is
 removed in certain directions, one or more of these wires will be pulled
 taut and the soldered connection will break.

  The wires are too short for the cover to be moved very far at all.
 Indeed, these wires seem to be designed to make the unwary user regret
 ever opening the case.

 Alternatively, you may wish to include a recommendation to have a small
 soldering iron available to resolder these wires. (What a pain that
 was)

 Stan Schwartz

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Johnny Johnson
 Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:19 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [filmscanners] Re: SS4000 again


 At 10:49 PM 2/24/2004 +1000, Rob Geraghty wrote:





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