[filmscanners] Re: Kodak High Definition Film

[Bruce]

on 9/3/2003 4:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Topic: [filmscanners] Re: Kodak High Definition Film
> ===
> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 12:54:12 -0400
> From: "Nagaraj, Ramesh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ----
>> Bruce wrote
>> I just shot a bunch of snapshots with this new consumer 400 speed film.
>>
>> I just wanted to pass along a note that it gives wonderful scans (on my
>> Nikon 8000). This film is rather contrasty for a color negative film =
> and
>
> With 200ASA negatives, I have a grains problem. Grains are easily =
> visible on white subject and blue sky.
> Do you mean you are not seeing apparent grains?
> If this is the case, its a great news.
>
> Thanks
> Ramesh

Ramesh,

You'll have to try it for yourself.  My impression is that it is finer
grained than the royal gold 200, but not "grain free" at large
magnifications.

-bruce


-Bruce

Visit my website at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~smthopr


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[filmscanners] Kodak High Definition Film

[Bruce]

I just shot a bunch of snapshots with this new consumer 400 speed film.

I just wanted to pass along a note that it gives wonderful scans (on my
Nikon 8000). This film is rather contrasty for a color negative film and
makes scans that are kind of true to it's name--very sharp looking with
punchy highlights and blacks and very fine grain for a 400 film. This film
kind of has the look of "chromes" with the latitude of negative.

I just thought I'd mention it as a new choice that's easy to find at the
supermarket and not too expensive. I was very pleasantly surprised.

-Bruce

Visit my website at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~smthopr


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[filmscanners] dynamic range discussion

[Bruce]

Please, enough already with the dynamic range argument.  I want to learn
about scanners.

Thanks.
-bruce



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[filmscanners] RE: Black and white scans onLS4000EDandotherissues

[Bruce M. Burnett]

Austin,
You assume that everyone with a Nikon scanner has depth of focus issues.
But not me nor the three others that I personally know who use them.  No
depth of focus problems.  I am not saying that there isn't an issue with
depth of focus, but that some units(or maybe we just have flat film)do
not exhibit the problem.
Bruce Burnett

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Austin Franklin
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 8:51 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] RE: Black and white scans
onLS4000EDandotherissues

Hi Todd,

> Most of the sources I've seen discuss the Callier effect show the same
neg
> printed through the two light sources. Unfortunately, what they've
done is
> taken a neg that was tailored to print well on a coldlight and printed
it
> with a condenser, then claim the highlights burn out...DUH.
> Likewise if they
> print a neg that was tailored to a condenser and print it with a
coldlight
> it will look flat.

Well, it has been well proven that you can get the same density range
from
the same negative with a cold light or a point light source, using
appropriate exposure time, aperture and grade of paper (or filter), so
that
is a non-issue.  The other issues are the "Callier effect", sharpness,
dust,
scratches and tonality (dynamic range).

> the
> Callier effect is predicable, and in some cases useful, and can be
> compensated for as needed.

What about the limited depth of focus, as well as scratches and dust?
How
do you compensate for that?

> Not sure if depth of focus is of any real relevance.

Snark, snark...ask people who own Nikon scanners if depth of focus is an
issue or not ;-)

> Anyway, just my experience, not out to tell anyone theirs is wrong.

Understood.  Me too.

Austin



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[filmscanners] Re: Epson-inkjet

[Bruce Kinch]

>Anyone know what has happened to epson-inkjet list yet? Six days down now.

I'm also not getting any of the Yahoo groups: Piezo, Archival Color,
Digital BW , etc. Perhaps my ISP is balking? They need the bandwidth
for the spam?

Bruce
--


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[filmscanners] Re: Polaroid 4000 Rebate Received

[Bruce Kinch]

The Bar coded label on the outer cardboard box. However, save copies
of that and the original receipt as there is also a discount on the
Silverfast upgrade.

Regards,

Bruce



>On Wed, Jan 16, 2002 at 01:25:49PM -0500, Bruce Kinch wrote:
>>  Mine too.
>>
>>  Likewise!
>>
>>  >Mine arrived yesterday.  The form was sent about a week after
>>  >Martin's.  Many thanks to David & the folks at Polaroid for coming through
>>  >in difficult times.
>
>What did you send in for a UPC bar code for the rebate?  The form
>indicates that the UPC is mandatory for a rebate, but there is
>nothing on the box that looks like a UPC bar code.  There is a
>small serial number bar code and another bar code that doesn't
>match what I would expect to see for a UPC on the outer box.  The
>inner box only had the serial number bar code.
>
>Jeff
>
>--
>Jeff Bartig  |  University of Wisconsin - Madison
>1210 W Dayton, Rm B263   |  Division of Information Technology
>Work Phone: (608) 262-8336   |  Network Engineering Technology
>E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  |
>
>
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[filmscanners] Piezo Exhibition in Boston

[Bruce Kinch]

I've mostly lurked here since last fall because I've been pursuing a
sabbatical project in digital printing. I've learned a lot by doing
so, and some of that knowledge has now been put to use. I am truly
indebted to all on the list.

I've just put the finishing touches on an exhibition of 31 Piezo BW
prints now on display through March 1 at the Gallery at Newbury
College in Brookline, near Boston MA, USA.

I work primarily with the natural landscape as raw subject matter,
using 4 x 5 and 5 x 7 formats. I depart from tradition by making two
negatives of each scene, reversing one, aligning the pair and
printing them as a sandwich. The results can be startlingly different
from the original. Imagine Minor White making Rorshach inkblots
(clue: he did:-)  Printing the work conventionally always entailed
complex masking and contrast control. Scanning to Photoshop affords
me much greater control, flexibility, and consistency.

The negatives were scanned on a Scitex Eversmart (5x7s) and a humble
Epson 2450 (less of a step down than one might expect) and printed
with an 1160/CIS Austin Franklin sold me on 13 x 19 Photo Rag. There
are also two 22 x 30 prints made on a 7000 at the Cone workshop.

I have a .pdf of the announcement card, but I'm not sure if I can
post it to the list as an attachment. Email me directly if you would
like a copy, or any other information.

--


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RE: filmscanners: LS-40/Vuescan cropping

[Bruce Kinch]

>  >> In their zeal to make totally electronic cameras, Canon eliminated
>>>  the sprocket that counts eight holes per frame, replacing it with an
>>>  infrared sensor. I'd suggest that plays a role your "nonstandard"
>>>  spacing.
>
>Ah. I see. What a PITA. :-(
>
>Having said that, it looks to be a combination of the problem - if Fuji,
>Kodak and all the other films I've used can manage to get the sprocket
>holes spaced at the same distance, I fail to see why Agfa can't.

I bet, if you look carefully, there is a slight dimensional 
difference in the holes of the Agfa.
-- 

Re: filmscanners: SS120 Grain Problem

[Bruce Kinch]

>I'm having problems with grain with the Polaroid SS120.  This can be 
>seen in the sample at:
>
>http://www.spirer.com/images/grain.jpg
>
>This is from a 6x7 neg scanned at 2880, unsharpened.  I get far less 
>grain with my Epson 1640 and am wondering what is going on.  The 
>original neg is Tri-X in Rodinal, grainy, but by no means this 
>radical.  I'd like to figure this out, since I have thousands of 
>Tri-X/Rodinal negatives, in fact, virtually everything I have shot. 
>Some are 35mm and are even worse.  With this level of grain, I find 
>I can't print much bigger than 5x7 without really noticeable grain 
>at reasonable distances.

Tri-X and Rodinal is about as "grainy" as 400 ISO gets-there's little 
or no sodium sulfite in the formula, the chemical that reduces 
apparent grain in most other developers (Microdol/Perceptol is 90% 
sulfite) by smoothing actual grain contours. Ralph Gibson based his 
entire aesthetic on that peculiarity. (You can add sulfite to the 
soup to smooth the grain.) So you are scanning the sharpest possible 
grain pattern.

At the scanner level, I understand working at other than even 
fractions of the max optical resolution can cause artifacts with fine 
pattern and details. I'd see if 2000dpi were smoother. Or 4000dpi and 
find something useful to do while it churns out pixels.


-- 

RE: filmscanners: LS-40/Vuescan cropping

[Bruce Kinch]

>  >> Surely, the frame spacing has no relationship to the make of
>>>  film.  It should be a standard 8 sprocket holes.  Any variance
>>>  has to come from the camera.  Some very cheap ones don't even
>>>  register the sprocket holes and vary spacing throughout a film.
>
>Both rolls were shot on a Canon EOS300 - not a particularly 'cheap'
>camera (although some professionals on here may disagree with that ;-).
>Obviously, since the same camera was used for both it *must* be the film
>that differs.

In their zeal to make totally electronic cameras, Canon eliminated 
the sprocket that counts eight holes per frame, replacing it with an 
infrared sensor. I'd suggest that plays a role your "nonstandard" 
spacing.

Also, the damn things fog infrared film. Annoys the hell out of my 
students who have to shoot an IR assignment. Teaches them not to let 
Daddy buy their toys anymore, though:-)

There are (were) cameras with non-standard spacing-Widelux, Xpan and 
other panoramics, half frame and stereo. There was once a 24x30mm or 
so Nikon M rangefinder, very rare and could be traded for an Imacon 
straight up if you find one.

What also varies is the width of the actual 35 frame. A wide angle 
lens on a RF camera sits deep enough to "expand" the frame slightly. 
I had a 15mm Hologon on a Leica for a while, and the frames almost 
touched. The 15mm Voightlander I use now is better, but I still can't 
scan full frame on a 4000SS.
-- 

RE: filmscanners: 6x8

[Bruce Kinch]

>There should not be as we are using Newton free glass as one of the two
>pieces. Why only one is Newton free I frankly don't know but I am told that
>is all that is necessary.
>David

Newton rings are an interference cancellation from light trying to 
get through two transparent but reflective surfaces that are less 
than a wavelength apart.

Anti-Newton glass is very slightly rough or textured. The AN glass 
normally is used only on the base (top) side of the film. Most roll 
film, esp 35mm, has a shiny base, partly to reduce scratches during 
film advance I presume, but that makes it prone to the problem. Most 
sheet film has a "retouchable" surface, with enough "tooth" that a 
pencil can be used, and that alone eliminates Newton Rings. The 
emulsion side of any film is itself sufficiently rough to not need AN 
glass. Besides, if used between film and optics, AN glass would 
degrade the image.

Dust is less of a problem than it might seem (most is out of focus), 
and is worth noting that you may not need any glass on the bottom at 
all, if the film is supported by the carrier on all four sides. The 
Leica Ic enlarger was (and still is) legendary for it's image 
quality, and it used a single condenser lens directly atop 35mm film. 
They later sold a special AN glass that slipped under the condenser 
when the problem became apparent with modern films. As an aside, I've 
refurbed a couple of these for friends, and as the AN attachment is 
impossible to find used, I have used slide mount AN glass or an 
unmounted soft-focus filter as substitutes-they worked perfectly.

Old timers used to buff glass enlarger carriers with "Jeweler's 
Rouge", an ultrafine abrasive. No need to today. I've had students 
make AN glass carriers for years, using "non-glare" picture framing 
glass on top, and plain below, with a tape hinge. Amazing how much it 
improves sharpness in conventional printing. Probably do the same in 
a scanner. In fact I may make one for my 4000SS before David does:-)




-- 
Bruce C. Kinch
Associate Professor of Photography
The Art Institute of Boston at Lesley University

Re: filmscanners: X-ray scanners/etc

[Bruce Kinch]

>I have been notified by my Professional lab and the Professional
>Photographers of America not to send processed or unprocessed film through
>the US mail due to the new equipment they are using.
>
>Its is best to have all film, "hand inspected". rather than go through the
>machines. I understand now that it is best to have it out of the plastic
>containers and in a clear "Ziploc" bag so they can see it.


A student tells me they want to open 4x5 sheet film boxes and holders 
"to check".
-- 

Re: filmscanners: Matrox and Monitor standby

[Bruce M. Burnett]

I have one computer with a Matrox video card that will go to sleep and not
wake up if I use an Open GL screensaver.  So I don't, and it works fine.
Bruce Burnett

RE: filmscanners: Scanning Kodachromes with LS30

[Bruce Roberts]

> If you haven't already, I suggest you read Dane Kosaka's step by step
> guide to
> scanning Kodachromes with Nikon scanners using Nikonscan software:
>
http://www.marginalsoftware.com/LS2000Notes/casestudyI/scanning_kodachro
me
> _on_th
> e_nikon_caseI.htm

Thanks, I will read that with great interest.

> I'm perplexed by the image size of your slides. 22mm square might be
from
> a
> Robot camera? But you imply the image is too wide to scan -- have you
> mixed up
> your millimetres? Maybe these are slides on 127 (Vest Pocket) size
film,
> with an
> image about 38mm square? From a Baby Rollei, or from a Brownie
Starflash?

Sorry, more explicitly 22mm high and 22mm wide (32mm diagonal). I have
no idea camera what was used and the photographer is no longer with us
to find out. Regardless I will have to make do with what the scanner can
achieve.

Bruce.




> - Original Message -
> From: "Bruce Roberts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> > I have never had to scan Kodachrome slides before (and never thought
I'
> > have to!) but, as luck would have it, I have just been handed a huge
> > pile of them to scan.
> >
> > I am using VueScan 7.1.7 on a PC with an LS30. What is the generally
> > accepted best method for scanning these? Is use of the infrared
channel
> > out? If it is better to use Nikon Scan 3.1 on these I can.
> >
> > Many of the slides are badly faded, quite dirty (fingerprints, dust)
and
> > all of them are of an unknown size (to me). They are a square image
> > measuring about 22mm on a side. This pretty much buggers me for
scanning
> > the whole image but the owner of the slides (family!) don't mind if
I
> > forcibly have to crop due to the scanners limitations.
> 

filmscanners: Scanning Kodachromes with LS30

[Bruce Roberts]

I have never had to scan Kodachrome slides before (and never thought I'
have to!) but, as luck would have it, I have just been handed a huge
pile of them to scan.

I am using VueScan 7.1.7 on a PC with an LS30. What is the generally
accepted best method for scanning these? Is use of the infrared channel
out? If it is better to use Nikon Scan 3.1 on these I can. 

Many of the slides are badly faded, quite dirty (fingerprints, dust) and
all of them are of an unknown size (to me). They are a square image
measuring about 22mm on a side. This pretty much buggers me for scanning
the whole image but the owner of the slides (family!) don't mind if I
forcibly have to crop due to the scanners limitations.

Any suggestions on the best practice welcomed. 

Bruce Roberts.

Re: filmscanners: How to set Epson driver to NO color correction for profiling?

[Bruce R. Rosin]

ALLM Rose wrote:

>
> I would really appreciate some help.  I am trying to profile my Epson
> 2000P printer using Monaco EZcolor 1.6.  To do this I must print a
> (Monaco-supplied) profiling image on the 2000P, tape a
> (Monaco-supplied) target just below the printed image, and scan the
> whole business on a flatbed scanner, which, in my case, is an Epson
> 1240U using the Epson Twain 5 driver.  There is a *strict* requirement
> to turn off all color management options in the Epson Twain 5 driver.
> Therein lies my problem: how do I turn off color management in the
> Epson driver?  Specifically, my confusion, in all its gory details,
> is:
>
Turn off color adjustment in the Printer Driver not the Scanner driver.

Re: filmscanners: Monitor Calibration And Others

[Bruce Jodoin]

Greetings... the information shared through this forum is wonderful but I
guess I would be considered a newbie and much of it goes over my head. I
will be receiving an Epson 1270 soon (yes, I am aware of the orange thing),
and will be using scans from a LS2000 to make 8x10 prints. I keep reading
things about monitor calibration and this and that, but are there any links
or can somebody share their thoughts (in newbie speek) on what I should be
looking for when the printer arrives?  My monitor is a Dell 19" trinitron
and graphics program is PSP7, but I may take advantage of the limited PS
upgrade from LE to the full version.
Thanks very much and if this topic has been overly discussed on the list,
feel free to contact me off-list.

Bruce J
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

filmscanners: Epson1270 and PhotoShop LE

[Bruce Jodoin]

Greetings... I am looking for a new printer and stuck between 2 choices, the
Epson 1270 or the 2000. I am pretty sure that the 1270 comes bundled with
PhotoShop LE. Does the 2000? Also, I am a fan of PaintShop Pro but I'm
thinking about giving PhotoShop a go, but it is quite pricy. Does the LE
version qualify as an upgrade to the full version?
Thanks very much and to keep this filmscanner related, I'll be making prints
from my LS-2000 scans. :-)

Bruce J

filmscanners: LS2000 Fuji NPH settings

[Bruce Jodoin]

Greetings,
I am new to film scanning and new to this list. I just purchased an LS2000
and I am using Vuescan for my scans. Slides have been very easy and
consistant to scan, and I am quite pleased with those results. However,
with color negs, I am having some trouble getting the right combination of
settings: contrast, brightness, color balance, white point etc.  This is
mainly wildlife images with Fuji NPH. I would appreciate any input on
suggested settings for this situation,  or perhaps a link to any websites
that show examples.
Thanks in advance,

Bruce J

RE: OT: RE: Processor speed with the Nikon LS30

[Bruce Roberts]

G'day. I'm not sure if this will help but here goes...   :-)

Arthur Entlich wrote:
> I was just on the Adaptec website yesterday, and was rather annoyed to
> find out they want DMA "unchecked" on all devices when using their Easy
> Creator software to write CD-Rs to prevent write problems.  On the other
> hand, my scanner barely functions if DMA is left unchecked, and I don't
> know what it does to my hard drive speed.

I was a bit confused by the "all" devices that you mention so I checked
their site. I use the same software but my CD-RW is a SCSI device so I don't
have this problem. What they say is to disable DMA on the IDE channel that
the CD-R is on. This is OK for most people as it is generally the only
device on that channel - by far the safest configuration for burning.

If you are sharing the CD-R IDE channel with a hard drive then, if possible,
swap the hard drive to the other channel. If you have three hard drives and
one CD-R then you have a problem as each IDE channel will only support two
drives. If this is the case then make sure the scanner is saving the files
to a drive on the other IDE channel.

DMA settings are made separately for each device that can use it. SCSI
devices don't use it at all so you won't even have the option to turn it on
for these devices. As Adaptec recommend DMA not be enabled for CD-Rs then
leave it off for that device only. You could still enable Bus Mastering on
the IDE channel with your HDD though, and let the HDD operate with DMA. The
Bus Mastering is enabled in the "Hard Disk Controller" setup of the Device
Manager.

> I know Adaptec would like everyone to buy only SCSI devices so they can
> sell lots of their interface cards, but isn't this getting just a bit
> ridiculous?  I don't know how anyone else feels about this, but I'm
> getting darn tired of having to reconfigure my system each time I want
> to use on piece of software or hardware versus another.  This is really
> a defect in the OS or the software/peripherals, as far as I'm
> concerned.  That's a bit like having to make a change in the carb
> settings to get your car from forward to reverse.  Half baked.

It's a pretty difficult keeping up with the ever changing software and
hardware requirements.

If you do end up having to change hardware/software settings for different
operations it would be really beneficial to learn about setting up hardware
"profiles" where all the settings for each configuration are stored in a
"Profile" which can be instigated when needed. It's too complicated to
explain here, but frequently a Godsend when a computer has to be used with
several different components at different times. If this is you then it's
worth looking into to.

> I'm really beginning to think its time to sell all my computers and wait
> a few years for them to actually figure out how these things are
> supposed to work.

I wish that they would sort out some broader standards too! But new
standards are sure to bring new problems... Oh, why do we do this??? >:^0

Cheers,

Bruce Roberts.



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OT: RE: Processor speed with the Nikon LS30

[Bruce Roberts]

OT:

> -Original Message-
>
> I'd say that your hard drives help a *great* deal.  Once I get my computer
> working with UDMA66

Now that's my area of expertise! Can I help?

The most obvious thing that most people don't realise is that DMA must be
turned on in the device manager in Win9x (right click "my Computer" and
choose properties). Find the Hard Disk Controller and make sure both
channels are enabled in the properties for said item. Also, find the
properties for your hard drive(s) and make sure DMA is selected. The latter
applies to any IDE CD-ROMs as well. If they do not support UDMA then they
will revert back on the next reboot.

This all assume BIOS is set up properly but as anything in the last few
years self detects HDDs then this shouldn't be a problem.

The interesting thing here is that this is still the case with Win ME. You'd
think they'd assume everybody would have UDMA drives in todays machines. Its
all on by default in Win2k.

You probably knew all this but it doesn't hurt to mention it as not many end
users know this one.

Cheers,

Bruce Roberts.




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RE: Vuescan/Old Kodachrome Unable to Focus

[Bruce Roberts]

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shough, Dean
> Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 5:33 AM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: RE: Vuescan/Old Kodachrome Unable to Focus
>
>
> > I have no idea why Nikonscan worked, but it did (I hardly ever use it).
> > The
> > slide was old and scratched, and I wanted to retain the infrared if I
> > could.
> > Thanks,
> >
>
> I thought ICE did not work correctly with Kodachrome type films - the dyes
> are nearly opaque in the infrared and the scratches/dust do not
> show up very
> well.

Nikon specifically say *not* to use ICE on Kodachrome slides in the
NikonScan reference manual. I assume this would apply to VueScan for the
same reasons (regardless of what they are).





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RE: how does the mailing list work?

[Bruce Roberts]

Yes, I've seen this site as well. Shocking images, true, but I haven't seen
the problem myself. I've used Photo Paper and Premium Glossy Photo Paper and
not seen anything even vaguely like these examples. I take it from your
response that you are experiencing these colour shift problems Rob? My
question was not who has heard of the problem so much as who has actually
experienced them. It seems to me that there are a few people making a lot of
noise. Then again it's very hard to say that based on newsgroups and web
sites - they are inherently noisy on particular topics.

I'll wait a few months longer before I make my own assessment I guess. I've
only had the printer about 3 months. Also, the new paper is due out
soon(ish) and that may help alleviate the problem. Needless to say I'm
keeping my paper purchases to a minimum for a while!

Bruce.

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Geraghty
> Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 10:38 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: how does the mailing list work?
>
>
> Bruce Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I know this may invoke some passionate responses but has anybody in this
> > group actually experienced the Epson 1270 orange cast problem mentioned?
>
> Have a look at:
> http://home.cox.rr.com/meyerfamily/epson/epson.html
>
> I'd suggest that the only way you'll see it is to have images to compare -
> scan something with skintones printed on Epson Premium Glossy just
> after printing, then scan it after a month's exposure to air and compare
> the results.  The effect in some cases seems to be a fairly subtle warming
> of the image, so it may not be easy to spot.
>
> What paper are you printing on?
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> 
> The filmscanners mailing list is hosted by http://www.halftone.co.uk
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> you are reading the Digest.



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RE: labelling archive cdrs

[Bruce Roberts]

I couldn't agree more. Printable labels are great for distribution of your
own commercial products but why bother with them for your own use?

Also, I don't think I've ever seen a brand of CD-R or CD-RW which
specifically recommends against using any specific type of felt-tipped
marker. Of course, they do say not to use anything other than a felt-tipped
marker...

In answer to another posting (Rob?), I've been sent many CDs with stick-on
labels and never experienced problems reading them. This includes (over a
few years), a 4x speed, 12x speed, 32x speed, 40x Speed and 52x speed
CD-ROMs. Also, I've not had any problems with an 8x DVD and a 8x4x32x CD-RW.
Most of the sticker kits come with a cheap but effective plastic application
guide which obviously do a good enough job. I once had a CD-ROM that had
trouble reading *any* CDs, but I think that was in the days when they where
getting faster (24x Maybe?) but didn't have any dampening mechanisms which
seem common today. It would make one hell of a racket with about a quarter
of the CDs I put in it. Sounded like a real imbalance problem (it was sent
back under warrantee). That's my experience anyway...

Bruce Roberts.

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 8:18 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: labelling archive cdrs
>
>
> In a message dated 9/20/00 4:16:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > I used Neato labels, applied with the supplied polycarbonate
> >  centring device, on over a hundred  CDRs sent in 1997-99 to
> >  a wide range of users. All them will have been used at least
> >  once . No-one has complained about unplayable disks, and
> >  this doesn't surprise me.
> >
> >  It was difficult or impossible to place the label
> >  off-centre, because the applicator was quite precisely
> >  machined and beautifully simple.
> >
>
> I am sure the gadgets place the labels well and the labels are fine but I
> object to the expense.  Not only is the label kit expensive for what it
> contains, but the replacement labels are expensive.Perhaps I haven't
> found the right place to buy them.  
>  Barb
>
> 
> The filmscanners mailing list is hosted by http://www.halftone.co.uk
> To resign, <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> with UNSUBSCRIBE
> FILMSCANNERS in the title, or UNSUBSCRIBE FILMSCANNERS_DIGEST if
> you are reading the Digest.



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RE: experiencing the 1270 orange shift

[Bruce Roberts]

That's interesting. Just as a matter of course, and long before I heard
anything about this potential problem, I have been printing my photos,
putting them back in the plastic packet from whence they came, and then,
when I had the frames made up, put them under glass. It's quite likely that
this lazy behaviour has prevented some of the problems.

Bruce Roberts.
Australia.

PS. You live in a beautiful part of the world. I was there last year and
loved it!!!


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jo Ann Snover
> Sent: Thursday, 21 September 2000 7:03 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: experiencing the 1270 orange shift
>
>
> > I know this may invoke some passionate responses but has anybody in this
> > group actually experienced the Epson 1270 orange cast problem mentioned?
> > I've read all the info provided in the links given but I've
> never actually
> > experienced the problem myself. Am I in the lucky minority or am I not
> > examining the prints closely enough over time?
>
> Yes, I have experienced it personally. I wasn't doing any type of
> testing, but just making prints with my wonderful 1270 (purchased May
> 9th). I had a couple of prints on the family room wall, and one day
> looked at one of them in passing and thought that I must be losing my
> touch with Photoshop as the image looked awful and I'd remembered it
> looking good before. I didn't have time to check it out then, but about
> a week later I took another look and it seemed so bad I couldn't believe
> I'd made such a horrible print.
>
> I took the print out from under the mat (it was framed but not behind
> glass) and then saw what it had looked like when printed. It was a
> cougar resting by a log surrounded by leaves and grass. The greenery was
> brown/orange - except where it was under the mat. I then checked some
> other prints around the house, and sure enough, everything left exposed
> to air was horribly orange. One print had been in a pile on my desk and
> where the print stuck out from the pile it was faded.
>
> One picture of Mount Rainier with a field and barn in front looked like
> the grass was crispy dry as it can get in late summer - brownish
> everywhere. The picture was taken in Spring though, and when I reprinted
> it (this was a 13x19 print), the difference was night and day.
>
> If the shift happens, the easiest way to tell for certain is to have
> part of the print covered or have a reference copy that's been kept in a
> folder or somehow away from air. I could imagine that some folks might
> not notice the shift without a reference or a critical eye.
>
> My prints behind glass or in a cardboard envelope are just fine. The
> real problem is sending prints somewhere. I made some 5x7s for family
> and had to send them in a plastic sleeve with instructions to leave in
> the sleeve until they framed them or put them in an album. In general I
> now send family pictures using my MD-5000 in dye sub mode so I won't
> have to worry how they're handled.
>
> As far as how many people have seen the problem, I can't say. I do know
> that at first I ignored all the heat on the Epson inkjet list as I
> figured the problem was just those folks who were putting prints into
> black plastic garbage bags filled with car exhaust (someone actually did
> that!). I live in a semi-rural suburb of Seattle and the fading happened
> in my home. I figured it didn't have anything to do with me until my
> gorgeous prints had brown grass and my son's brown hair turned orange!
>
> regards,
>
> Jo Ann
>
> 
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> FILMSCANNERS in the title, or UNSUBSCRIBE FILMSCANNERS_DIGEST if
> you are reading the Digest.



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RE: how does the mailing list work?

[Bruce Roberts]

I know this may invoke some passionate responses but has anybody in this
group actually experienced the Epson 1270 orange cast problem mentioned?
I've read all the info provided in the links given but I've never actually
experienced the problem myself. Am I in the lucky minority or am I not
examining the prints closely enough over time?

Bruce Roberts.

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Laurie Solomon
> Sent: Tuesday, 19 September 2000 7:19 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: how does the mailing list work?
>
>
> Of course it depends on what you mean by "minority problem" and
> whom you are
> talking to.
>
> Check out: For the latest on the 1270/870/875DC Orange-Shift
>   }
>  Head to http://www.p-o-v-image.com/epson/
> Or you could check out the latest issue of PCWorld or Bruce Fraser's open
> letter in MacWeek
> (http://macweek.zdnet.com/cgi-bin/storyforums/storyforums/_2000_09
_03_0908co
lorgeek/forum.pl?read=86.  Epson has responded to Bruce's letter ( but I
have lost the link), which hopefully can be found with other related
materials at the www.p-o-v-image.com/epson/ site.

The problem seems to be the ease with which the dyes ( especially the cyan)
are susceptible to oxidation and air contaimination; they are found to take
place faster and with greater ease on the Premium Glossy paper but are also
found to take place on the other papers as well although not to the same
degree or extent.  The premium glossy was taken offf the moraket by Epson to
be replaced by a new formulation that has an oxidation barrier which will
retard the orange shift 5-6 times longer than under the old Premium glossy
formulation but will not prevent it from taking place.  This, however, is
really meaningless if you are one of the people who live in an area where
such shifts took place within a day to two weeks of printing since 5-6 times
longer would result in de4laying the shift for 6 days to twelve weeks. :-)


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tony Sleep
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 12:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: how does the mailing list work?


> PS The output from the 1270 on Epson Premium Glossy paper is awesome,
> but there is a problem with prints getting an orange cast over time.

Yes, I know, but it seems to be a minority problem. However you're quite
right to warn about it.

Regards

Tony Sleep
http://www.halftone.co.uk - Online portfolio & exhibit; + film scanner
info & comparisons

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RE: Canoscan FS2710

[Bruce Roberts]

You can't clean scratches off.

...and you never really get *all* the dust, grime, grease, hairs, etc. off.

Try ICE. It's pretty impressive to see a comparison. I'm looking forward to
4000dpi scanners with it...

Bruce.

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Austin Franklin
> Sent: Tuesday, 19 September 2000 9:24 AM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: RE: Canoscan FS2710
>
>
> > ICE is another way of saying "has an infrared
> > channel and uses the ICE algorithm to remove dust using
> > this infrared channel".  The FS2710 doesn't have an infrared
> > channel.
>
> What's the big deal with just cleaning the negative?  I don't get it...
>
>
>
>
> 
> The filmscanners mailing list is hosted by http://www.halftone.co.uk
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> FILMSCANNERS in the title, or UNSUBSCRIBE FILMSCANNERS_DIGEST if
> you are reading the Digest.
>



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RE: Canoscan FS2710

[Bruce Roberts]

No Canon doesn't yet use ICE. ICE is a technology that scanner manufacturers
license from Applied Science Fiction (www.appliedsciencefiction.com). This
technology is explained very well at their web site. I am personally looking
forward to seeing who brings out scanners using the newer Ice3 technology -
later this year according to their site.

Bruce Roberts
Australia.

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, 19 September 2000 5:21 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Canoscan FS2710
>
>
> Does the Canoscan FS2710 have ICE??  If so, was it Nikon
> technology? Is it
> the same in every scanner?  Meaning if a scanner has ICE, is it
> universal in
> what it does?  (apologies for being late I was on vacation!)
> Ed
>
> 
> The filmscanners mailing list is hosted by http://www.halftone.co.uk
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>



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