Re: antique sleigh heater
This message is from: Deb Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Amish in our area use heaters but they have to heat the stone itself on their wood stoves, then transfer it to the sleigh or buggy. Then you keep your feet on them or a blanket over it and let the heat radiate up to keep you warm. Caution don't wear boots that would melt. They have leather shoes. In any case the heating period is limited. Something like the hand and foot warmers that hunters use would provide more long term warmth. Debi Williams Williams Hill Fjords Waterford, Pa Home of Tolgar,Tanja, Rosie, Belle,Hilda and Beckett - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 3:45 PM Subject: antique sleigh heater This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi I am getting ready for a sleigh show on the 20th and want to use my Clark Heater. Does anyone know how to fuel the heater? It has a drawer with two porous blocks that my husband thinks you soak in fluid and ignite the blocks and then adjust the vents. So far this has not worked. I thought you would put coals or coal into the drawer and let them burn adjusting the vents. Does anyone know the correct way to work the heater? or have any ideas? thanks sue
Musical Kur
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think I remember some discussion awhile back on Musical Kur. My friend has an interest in gaining more information. Especiallly about driven kur. Her name is Annette and her email is A HREF=mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]/A thanks Lou Check out our website A HREF=http://hometown.aol.com/dbldayfarm/index.html;DoubleDay Farm - Paint Miniature Horses/A I know God won't give me more than I can handle. I just wish He didn't trust me so much.
Re: antique sleigh heater
This message is from: Mike May, Registrar NFHR [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 03:45 PM 1/13/2002 -0500, you wrote: This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi I am getting ready for a sleigh show on the 20th and want to use my Clark Heater. Does anyone know how to fuel the heater? It has a drawer with two porous blocks that my husband thinks you soak in fluid and ignite the blocks and then adjust the vents. So far this has not worked. I thought you would put coals or coal into the drawer and let them burn adjusting the vents. Does anyone know the correct way to work the heater? or have any ideas? thanks Well I did a search on Clark Heater found this: http://members.tripod.com/~roaring_twenties/id591.htm Is this what it looks like? If so it looks like it is for use with charcoal like you said. They call it a Clark Charcoal Heater. Mike sue === Norwegian Fjord Horse Registry Mike May, Executive Director Registrar Voice 585-872-4114 FAX 585-787-0497 http://www.nfhr.com mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
antique sleigh heater
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi I am getting ready for a sleigh show on the 20th and want to use my Clark Heater. Does anyone know how to fuel the heater? It has a drawer with two porous blocks that my husband thinks you soak in fluid and ignite the blocks and then adjust the vents. So far this has not worked. I thought you would put coals or coal into the drawer and let them burn adjusting the vents. Does anyone know the correct way to work the heater? or have any ideas? thanks sue
Pinto coloring (vs Paint)
This message is from: Michele Bigelow [EMAIL PROTECTED] FWIW A Pinto horse can be any breed with color, however the white MUST have pink skin underneath, and the black/brown/palomino/gray/whatever color MUST have black skin underneath the coat. It also must be a certain size patch of skinI forget how big - a couple inches or so. The Pinto horse registry will register any horse as pinto regardless of breeding, except draft horses (which includes Icelandic's - but we are trying to change this as they now accept some gaited horses for registry). They are classified as 4 types - hunter, stock, pleasure, saddle. My trainer has a 100% pure Davenport Arab Stud that is also registered pinto. He has met the color requirement. He does not have any other breed of pinto in his breeding to give him the coloring. A Paint Horse is a QH or QH/TB cross with appropriate color markings as described above. No other breed can be considered a Paint Horse, but are welcome to be considered a Pinto. Michele experience is rather narrow here - I was curious whether they came in 'pinto' colors or whether the existence of pinto markings on a horse called an Icelandic REALLY meant it was a cross - as is the case with pinto Arabs and pinto Saddlebreds. The only way you get 'pinto' coloring in these breeds is to introduce a pinto horse of some kind(not an Arab or a Saddlebred) into the mix, as pinto did not exist in the original breed. Mostly this has been accomplished in the past by introducing a pinto QH(which is again a cross: Pinto/Quarter Horse mustang/QH) into the mix way back and then breeding for color with the resulting offspring.
Re: Weanling for family with children question -
This message is from: Arthur and Carol Rivoire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello from Carol Rivoire at Beaver Dam Farm in Nova Scotia - I disagree somewhat from the opinions expressed on the Digest regarding the appropriatness of a family with young children buying a weanling. I've deleted the original message, but seem to remember the mother is experienced, and the children are used to, interested in, and very good with farm animals including cattle and calves. My reaction on reading that post last week was that the right weanling would be a good choice for such a family. But . . . . The RIGHT WEANLING is the key Not all Fjordhorses are created equal in anything! Not their temperament, characters, patience, conformation, or abilities. Some weanlings are hellions, and I wouldn't recommend them to any but the most experienced adults. Others are placid, malleable, willing paragons, and I'd recommed (and I have) them to old ladies and supervised children. What this father needs to do if he wants to buy a weanling FOR THE FAMILY, (not just for the children) . . . which would be a big mistake for a lot of reasons, is to search out a knowledgeable breeder or owner who can advise him which youngster to purchase. Now, the only way that the seller can VERIFY if the youngster has the right credentials is if he really KNOWS his horses. If the baby has been living his whole life in a pasture, then the owner won't have the necessary experience with that baby to know what kind of character he actually has. We found this out early on, and realized we were making a mistake with our babies, and so we rectified it. We used to have a run-in situation for the weanlings. It was great in that the babies had free access to hay and heated water, shelter, and could run in a large pasture. We could have 7-8 babies in this Nursery at a time. --- It was cost effective, and low labor. It was super for us! However, it wasn't the best way to raise gentle, well-mannered babies. Now, we turn the babies out in the daytime, but bring them into stalls every night. And when we're turning them out, or bringing them in, we make each and every session a lesson. We've found that by doing this, each youngster learns to lead nicely, to stand tied, stand on cross-ties, pick up feet, move over, backwards, and to be absolutely mannerly. It's harder on us, but far better for the horses. This is a motto we have in our barn - one of many mottos, actually --- IF IT'S EASIER, MORE COMFORTABLE, FASTER FOR YOU, IT'S PROBABLY NOT THE BEST FOR THE HORSES. Even handling each weanling this way, we find some are easier, more willing, quieter than others. Sometimes we find one that's unbelievably nice, quiet, and willing, and a baby like that will retain his character all his life, and be suitable for almost anybody. We had a colt like that (Gjest x Yvonne) several years ago. When he was a yearling, I let a 10 yr. old neighbor boy train him in grounddriving with the goal of the boy taking the yearling to our local Agricultural Fair. Chris worked with the colt all summer grounddriving by himself all over the farm. He did everything with that youngster. Dressed him up in costume. Dragged stuff . . . everything! The boy had no experience at all with horses, but a lot with calves, and he'd showed those calves at the Fair. The Gjest son was BDF Nathan, and he was special, and was eventually sold on the basis of his special character to be a true family horse. Nobody can guarantee anything with horses, and my opinion always has been that it doesn't matter much the age of the horse. What is most basic is that the horse has the right temperament to start with and that his good temperament has been augmented with correct training. You can't have one without the other. Good training is not going to make an unpleasant, nervous, high-strung horse suitable for a family. As an aside Someone mentioned Fjords that bite and kick. I want to say that in 23 years and hundreds and hundreds of Fjords, we've only known two to bite and kick. The first one was an unusual looking Fjord we had in for training very early in our career. She was totally undependable. You couldn't walk behind her, and she would bite if given a chance. -- She was close to 15 hands, lean and flat muscled, horse-like in appearance, and had yellow eyes. I think she was a Fjord cross, although she was registered. I believe her bad attitude is attributable to her questionable bloodlines. The other was a 3 yr. old mare in for training more recently. She also would bite and kick, but she was 100% Fjord of the best bloodlines. Frankly, I don't know what her problem was. However, we had her back for breeding the next year, and she was a perfect angel in every way. I guess it was just a 3-yr-old thing. I strongly believe in the validity of my theory on Fjord temperament/character. A foal is born with a certain
Re: benefits of the older horse
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...She is smarter, calmer and the most trustworthy of any of the 5 horses we have. Thank goodness for the older horse!... That's what I value in the middle aged horse (12-18) and the older horse (19+) versus the younger horse (5 and under). The old timers have been there, done that - are smarter, calmer, trustworthy due to life experiences. It doesn't mean they won't *ever* spook, just that the frequency is much less. A young animal has so little to offer a young rider (green with green equals disaster!) and little for a beginner older rider. That is why so many of us would pay more for a horse (of any breed) that is proven, that is, that has more than a month or two of training under it's saddle. For a reliable trail horse, a month is not much experience. My 21 yr old Standardbred can be ridden by my teens with little worry of catastrophe on the trail. The teens have gone through LOTS of practice riding and the old girl has seen YEARS of trail and life experiences. I ride the old girl too - on the trail and also in the medieval games (like RenFaire). Young horse is nice, but an experienced older horse is worth so much more! Sher
FJORD CHAT Sunday Night
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] PETSANDVETS.COM FJORD HORSE CHAT Fjord Room SUNDAY NIGHT JANUARY 13th 9:00 pm to 10:00pm (Eastern Time) CHAT ROOMS http://chat.petsandvets.com MESSAGE BOARDS http://www.petsandvets.com/forums *NEW* Calendar of Events Chats Go to www.petsandvets.com main page and scroll down. Click on Calendar
Re: fjordhorse-digest V2002 #10
This message is from: Mike May, Registrar NFHR [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 10:30 AM 1/12/2002 -0800, you wrote: That's about it! ;))!! Actually the Registry has/had a 'formula' that you use to determine an inbreeding coefficient. Or at least we used to have one. It's a form that you fill out with the pedigrees of the prospective parents, then you count the number of common parents, or grandparents, go to a table that tells you what that equals in 'inbreeding', or something like that. I still have a couple of the forms and the table must be in an old Fjord Herald or something. Anyway, I seem to recall that the number needs to be 16% inbreeding coefficient or less for the resultant offspring to be registerable. Maybe all this can be done on the Registry website with the click of a mouse these days - who knows. Mike, how does this work now? We don't breed Fjords any more, so I'm not up on the latest stuff. I have seen the article you are talking a long time ago I think. I think your right it was in an old Herald. We don't really use any formula for it we just go by this rule from the rules for registration: Inbred horses foaled after January 1986 can not be registered. This includes: mother to son, father to daughter, brother to sister and half-brother to half-sister. and In the interest of protecting the genetic purity and the highest standards of the Fjord horse, we will withdraw from the Norwegian Fjord Horse Registry any mare or stallion that is used for crossbreeding with another breed or species. Violators will have their membership suspended and will lose all membership privileges including registration, transfer of horses and any voting rights. The names of owners and horses will be placed on the suspended list. === Norwegian Fjord Horse Registry Mike May, Executive Director Registrar Voice 585-872-4114 FAX 585-787-0497 http://www.nfhr.com mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
