Re: bridles and bits for fjords
This message is from: Rovena Kessinger Thanks. I'm going really slow. I'm not in any rush. I don't want to get hurt myself or have him get hurt. I don't care how long it takes; it may take several years. I'm doing a lot of reading about this. I don't have any people in person to help, so I'm doing it myself, but I have gotten a lot of good advice like this and on forums, and I think it's going well. He is a lot different than when I first got him, but still not there yet.  The only person I know who ever tried to ride him used a bit, and he ran away with her. She is a really tough experienced horse person, and she said there was just no way to stop him.   If he gets scared, he is uncontrollable. My hoof trimmer had to go very, very slowly with him, but she specializes in hard-to-trim equines, and he will let his hooves be trimmed now. She didn't think he had ever had his hooves trimmed before.  He pulled people around with a rope halter at the rescue. So a bit wouldn't save me anyway.  It has to be the training and trust.  He is very sensitive. He is not spooky to things, he is very calm with me and doesn't spook at things a lot of horses would spook about, but he is scared of people, and as soon as he detects anything but extremely gentle treatment, he becomes very reactive. Even if a person walks towards him with the "intent" to do something, he gets runs away, or gets very wild if he cannot get away. But if a person doesn't want to do anything to him, he is OK. He always knows the difference. He can sense a person looking at him and know what they have in mind to do with him. That's why he wasn't scared of me, because I didn't know what I was doing, and he knew that. So I just do positive reinforcement training with him, and he likes that. He is much, much better than he was when I got him.  I don't know if how he acts is a fjord trait or not.  A lot of people who do positive reinforcement training ride bitless. .So I have some good examples. But I just can't find one that fits him that I like. I have the same problem with the mule. They both have big heads, but draft sizes are too big. Kind of big around, but not that long.  I'm looking for a trained horse that I can actually ride, and learn what I'm doing before I ride him. But I'd like to get the equipment and get him used to it. --- On Tue, 6/18/13, Debby Stai wrote: From: Debby Stai Subject: bridles and bits for fjords To: fjordhorse@angus.mystery.com Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2013, 8:06 AM This message is from: "Debby Stai" I know there are some that ride bitless out there. Iâve moved a lot over the years, military life, and never actually saw anyone. Iâd wondered if it were more popular amongst the endurance riders? I do recall a Paso Fino owner using a type of bosal to ride in but it was not the hard rawhide, was a soft leather and her horses were very well trained. Iâd wondered about riding a horse without a bit if one hasnât much knowledge or is in the learning phase. But then I wonder about people using harsh bits and have much experience. We are all different that is true. I would really worry though about a rider on a horse theyâve never really ridden and is new to them period, especially if they are a green rider, one just learning. I only mention this as at some time in all of our lives we were green riders, and I dare say many of us tried our luck on green horses and if we were very lucky and God was indeed watching over us, we came out of it with little scrapes and can look back and say âmy God, how did we surviveâ.   Theres an expression for that, slips my mind. But, knowing what I know today, I believe that green rider, green horse, get thee to a barn for lessons. If one can find someone that has worked with fjords, even better. Especially as they can help with their knowledge about saddles and bridles and bits. Always find a trainer that puts the horse first, not only the comfort in the tack, but the correct training. And do a lot of research, reading, going to local shows, see how trainers work with their horses and their students. See whoâs horses are happy in the work they do. Well taken care of. Look at the horses feet, a good sign of a horse well taken care of is regular hoof trimming done right. Talk to your veterinarian. Talk to farriers. Find good people in your area that can help you. If you come across ones that give you a bad feeling in your stomach, they arenât good to horses, then run. I hope all new riders the best with their new horses, keep it safe for themselves and their horses, and enjoy a lifetime together. Debby Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw FH_L Sh
Re: bridles and bits for fjords
This message is from: Theresa Christiansen Good point! And there is no such thing as "a safe horse"...or car, for that matter! Theresa Christiansen Little Rock Farm 425 788 2358 206 972 7222 cell Sent from my iPad On Jun 18, 2013, at 7:16 AM, Me Kint wrote: > This message is from: Me Kint > > > From Mary's iPad > > PLEASE REMOVE ALL E-MAIL ADDRESSES BEFORE SENDING OR FORWARDING THIS EMAIL. > > On Jun 18, 2013, at 6:06, "Debby Stai" wrote: > >> >> "I know there are some that ride bitless out there." > Debby, what wonderful advice! >Also remember that no horse is 100% bomb proof, just figure your horse has > not encountered the right bomb yet Any bit is only as gentle or severe > as the hands that are using it. > Mary > > Important FjordHorse List Links: > Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e > FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw > FH_L Shirts: http://tinyurl.com/8yky94l Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw FH_L Shirts: http://tinyurl.com/8yky94l
Re: bridles and bits for fjords
This message is from: Me Kint >From Mary's iPad PLEASE REMOVE ALL E-MAIL ADDRESSES BEFORE SENDING OR FORWARDING THIS EMAIL. On Jun 18, 2013, at 6:06, "Debby Stai" wrote: > > "I know there are some that ride bitless out there." Debby, what wonderful advice! Also remember that no horse is 100% bomb proof, just figure your horse has not encountered the right bomb yet Any bit is only as gentle or severe as the hands that are using it. Mary Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw FH_L Shirts: http://tinyurl.com/8yky94l
bridles and bits for fjords
This message is from: "Debby Stai" I know there are some that ride bitless out there. Iâve moved a lot over the years, military life, and never actually saw anyone. Iâd wondered if it were more popular amongst the endurance riders? I do recall a Paso Fino owner using a type of bosal to ride in but it was not the hard rawhide, was a soft leather and her horses were very well trained. Iâd wondered about riding a horse without a bit if one hasnât much knowledge or is in the learning phase. But then I wonder about people using harsh bits and have much experience. We are all different that is true. I would really worry though about a rider on a horse theyâve never really ridden and is new to them period, especially if they are a green rider, one just learning. I only mention this as at some time in all of our lives we were green riders, and I dare say many of us tried our luck on green horses and if we were very lucky and God was indeed watching over us, we came out of it with little scrapes and can look back and say âmy God, how did we surviveâ. Theres an expression for that, slips my mind. But, knowing what I know today, I believe that green rider, green horse, get thee to a barn for lessons. If one can find someone that has worked with fjords, even better. Especially as they can help with their knowledge about saddles and bridles and bits. Always find a trainer that puts the horse first, not only the comfort in the tack, but the correct training. And do a lot of research, reading, going to local shows, see how trainers work with their horses and their students. See whoâs horses are happy in the work they do. Well taken care of. Look at the horses feet, a good sign of a horse well taken care of is regular hoof trimming done right. Talk to your veterinarian. Talk to farriers. Find good people in your area that can help you. If you come across ones that give you a bad feeling in your stomach, they arenât good to horses, then run. I hope all new riders the best with their new horses, keep it safe for themselves and their horses, and enjoy a lifetime together. Debby Important FjordHorse List Links: Subscription Management: http://tinyurl.com/5msa7e FH-L Archives: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw FH_L Shirts: http://tinyurl.com/8yky94l
Re: Bits for fjords
This message is from: "jgayle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Strange but true, one of the best bits I have used for "bitty" horses is a strange oval ringed with a mouth piece of a figure eight swivel with a ball in the middle, there are three linked together. My sensitive mouthed Holsteiner loved it and had the softest mouth with it. Yet I had an instructor who thought it was a "severe" bit but she tended to make snap decisions. I believe it may be of English make. Jean Author 'The Colonel's Daughter" Occupied Germany 1946 to 1949 Send: $20 to Three Horse's Press 7403 Blaine Rd Aberdeen, WA 98520
Re: Bits for fjords
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jean Thanks for your info...I had the same problem finding a bit with my POA and the low pallet. I came to the conclusion after asking all the POA experts that he just doesn't like ANY bit...but his head ducking quit after taking somone's suggestion..he just hates to be bitted, it is ok once in his mouth..equine dentist and all didn't make difference. I was looking at the Comfort snaffles too...that word "comfort"..heh heh. I need to go measure his mouth...maybe 5 1/2" is what I need. Confusingthere is a Myler Video on ebay I think I will bid on ...not sure if that will help or confuse me more. There is a Stateline Tack a few miles from me...may just take the $55 plunge. I am a Western Trail toodler..nothing fancy and my guy still has a lot to learn, as do I. I'm finding fjords ARE different in many ways..all GOOD but a bit confusing! Thanks Cheryl Garnica in S. Cal Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: This message is from: Jean Ernest Many Fjords need a 5 1/2" bit. Also their pallet is low with a large tongue, so a two piece mouthpiece in a snaffle pokes them in their pallet. The Myler bits work great..curved to fit the mouth.. the Myler "Comfort snaffle" is good, comes in 5 1/2" in Dover and Stateline catalogs. I ordered a 6" Myler with a solid low port mouthpiece and military elbow cheeks for my big gelding, Bjorken, and he is comfortable and responsive in that. I use it with the rein in the first slot below the snaffle setting. The Glory bits are good too..the mouthpiece is a curved solid mouthpiece angled slightly forward. These bits come in "Butterfly " and Liverpool cheeks for driving (I use the butterfly one for riding) and a dressage approved riding snaffle with Baucher style cheeks. see them at: http://www.glorybits.com/ You generally need a 5 3/4" or larger for the driving styles or the cheeks pinch. Call Ray Johnson to order..he is very interesting to talk to! Bridles! Yes a much larger brow band! I find that the oversize English bridles have a large enough brow band but often the cheeks are too long...Dave Mcwethy can make you a bridle to fit! http://www.horseharness.com/ I hope this helps, Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, cool and smoky this morning..42 degrees! >Anyone have suggestions for fjord bits? My guy is broke basically and >using a simple O ring snaffle 5". I have been thinking I need a 5 >1/4". He has also been ignoring direct rein cues a lot.the arena is >away from the other horses and is fixated a fair amount on going back to >the gait to try to get a look/smell of the others.even after lunging. > > >Did some reading on the Myler snaffles and wondering if anyone has >experience with this. Or, are fjords different with their needs? Any >suggestions appreciated.
Re: Bits for fjords
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Many Fjords need a 5 1/2" bit. Also their pallet is low with a large tongue, so a two piece mouthpiece in a snaffle pokes them in their pallet. The Myler bits work great..curved to fit the mouth.. the Myler "Comfort snaffle" is good, comes in 5 1/2" in Dover and Stateline catalogs. I ordered a 6" Myler with a solid low port mouthpiece and military elbow cheeks for my big gelding, Bjorken, and he is comfortable and responsive in that. I use it with the rein in the first slot below the snaffle setting. The Glory bits are good too..the mouthpiece is a curved solid mouthpiece angled slightly forward. These bits come in "Butterfly " and Liverpool cheeks for driving (I use the butterfly one for riding) and a dressage approved riding snaffle with Baucher style cheeks. see them at:http://www.glorybits.com/ You generally need a 5 3/4" or larger for the driving styles or the cheeks pinch.Call Ray Johnson to order..he is very interesting to talk to! Bridles! Yes a much larger brow band! I find that the oversize English bridles have a large enough brow band but often the cheeks are too long...Dave Mcwethy can make you a bridle to fit! http://www.horseharness.com/ I hope this helps, Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, cool and smoky this morning..42 degrees! >Anyone have suggestions for fjord bits? My guy is broke basically and >using a simple O ring snaffle 5". I have been thinking I need a 5 >1/4". He has also been ignoring direct rein cues a lot.the arena is >away from the other horses and is fixated a fair amount on going back to >the gait to try to get a look/smell of the others.even after lunging. > > >Did some reading on the Myler snaffles and wondering if anyone has >experience with this. Or, are fjords different with their needs? Any >suggestions appreciated.
Bits for fjords
This message is from: CHERYL GARNICA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone have suggestions for fjord bits? My guy is broke basically and using a simple O ring snaffle 5". I have been thinking I need a 5 1/4". He has also been ignoring direct rein cues a lot.the arena is away from the other horses and is fixated a fair amount on going back to the gait to try to get a look/smell of the others.even after lunging. I figure it is a matter of time to get the work ethic down. Meanwhile, that neck is a lot to contend with strengthwise when he is pulling the other way. He does better with leg pressure but I am trying to get him to work just off the rein for now. Did some reading on the Myler snaffles and wondering if anyone has experience with this. Or, are fjords different with their needs? Any suggestions appreciated. Tack for my fjord has been a challenge!! Bridle : really needs something between large and regular horse (brow band too tight with regularpunching a ton of holes in large), the great saddle hunt (found saddles with double D's helped keep girth from cutting into elbows, Circle Y Omaha round skirt FHQB had it all for width, double Ds and round skirt for back). Now the bit quest for all you experienced people! Did you folks have same problem? Thanks in advance Cheryl in S. Cal
Re: bits for Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 6/11/2002 7:07:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I also use a KK on Tank for riding and he is very > happy with it. It gives him a nice mouth, before I > used a regular snaffle and I know he likes the KK > better. Expensive but worth it. I use a mullen > liverpool on him for driving. > Fjords. The horses with expensive taste! Someday maybe I'll get a cart and take some lessons, after Juniper is refreshed in the art of driving by a pro. I still have a mullen mouth in the tackroom, and probably it is what she also needs for driving. Pamela
RE: bits for Fjords
This message is from: Cynthia Madden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I also use a KK on Tank for riding and he is very happy with it. It gives him a nice mouth, before I used a regular snaffle and I know he likes the KK better. Expensive but worth it. I use a mullen liverpool on him for driving. = Cynthia Madden Las Cruces, NM [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
Re: bits for Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Sheri- A riding friend recommended a "French link" or "dog bone" snaffle as mild and clearly communicative. I use it and like it a lot. It's supposed to relieve the nutcracker action of a regular jointed snaffle. This may be a good choice for "fun & trail" riding, especially since your boy is not problematic. Brigid M Wasson San Francisco Bay Area, CA http://ourfjords.freeservers.com/fjord1/Our_Fjordsx.html";>Our http://ourfjords.freeservers.com/fjord1/Our_Fjordsx.html";>Fjords http://www.ourfjords.freeservers.com/fw/Fjordings_Wesx.html";> Fjordings West / )__~ /L /L
Re: bits for Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 6/10/2002 5:22:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > . I have been happy with this but I am > wondering what other types of bits people are using for general trail > riding > and fun riding. I dont have trouble with him spooking, and he is pretty > darn > good at stopping. When I bought Juniper I was told she liked a mullen mouth. I didn't find her liking that very well at all. She was going fine in a regular D-ring snaffle. But during my dressage lessons I found her a LOT heavier on the right rein, she'd set her jaw against me. My trainer had me borrow her KK jointed bit and she softened s nicely and started giving to me, and raising her back and tucking her nose down, instead of flying around with it in the air. Of course, it was an expensive bit.sigh. pretty close to $100.00. But she loves it. Pamela
bits for Fjords
This message is from: "sheri kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi friends, I need to buy 1 more bit for an extra bridle for my 5 yr. old fjord gelding. I have a psoasis (spelling) bit that is a very fat snaffle type bit. It has 2 sets of rings on the lower end and 1 set on the top of the main ring if I wanted more leverage. I have been happy with this but I am wondering what other types of bits people are using for general trail riding and fun riding. I dont have trouble with him spooking, and he is pretty darn good at stopping. Only 1 time in 3 years did he spook and leap into the trees leaving me with quite a job of pulling him down. In the meantime I lost my glasses and rubbed my leg on a branch. I hate to use "more bit" than I need. Any suggestions? Thanks, Sheri and Red