Re: [Frameworks] 16mm film looper

2021-09-05 Thread Quentin Darcq
Hello all,

You should try to send an e-mail to the filmlabs.org mailing lists for diy
loopers. Have also a look here:
http://www.filmlabs.org/index.php/technical-tips/

Quentin

On Sat, Sep 4, 2021 at 10:03 PM Thomas Bartels 
wrote:

> About 15-20 years ago a (canadian based?) filmmaker gave a workshop (in
> Worm/Rotterdam?) for building simple and safe diy loopers.
> (sorry for the vague info, can't remember the details any more precisely,
> maybe Karel Doing does?)
>
> I have some of them, they are easy to build and I am very satisfied with
> their performance. They are supposed to run loops up to 10 min.
> I never had more than 8. The films did not get scratched or torn and ran
> for 2 weeks exhibition.
> Unfortunately I can not find the drawings and measurements at the moment
> but if this is an option for you I can copy them from the device.
>
> Best,
> Thomas.
>
> Thomas Bartels
> https://vimeo.com/thomasbartels
>
> Anna Kipervaser  hat am 25.08.2021 17:45
> geschrieben:
>
>
>
> Maybe you bought one and no longer need it, or maybe you or your friend
> make them. I wanna know about it cuz I need to buy one!
>
> I'm shopping for a looper and would like to have variety of options as I
> make a decision.
>
> I'm aware of NCS as an option, and would ideally love to order a
> vertical/non-platter model from Christophe, but there need to be 6 of us!
> And I don't yet know what he charges per looper.
>
> Would love to know current other options and prices, as well as styles.
>
> Always,
>  Anna
>
>
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Re: [Frameworks] Kodak neg stocks with a Canon 814 Autozoom?

2021-09-05 Thread ev petrol
Thanks Dominic! That's good to know about Da Vinci 

moiratierney.net vimeo.com/moiratierney 

On Sunday, September 5, 2021, 1:51:16 AM GMT+2, Dominic Angerame 
 wrote:  
 
 When transferring b/w reversal film to digital scans it is better to be 
overexposed.
I have always underexposed reversal because the lab could bring out the 
highlights by printing the light at a higher number. However when working on 
digital scans for Revelations at Light Cone a couple of years I found that in 
Premier I could not bring out the highlights in underexposed areas and any 
attempt to do so just made the image muddy with little contrast. However with 
De Vinci we could find “data” in the overexposed sections and bring out the 
imagery that photographically was washed away from overexposure into a decent 
image. That is why I called my last film Revelations because many scenes in the 
film were brought to light that had been overexposed on celluloid and yet 
created clear imagery when visual data was found.
So its best to use the correct exposure in these days of digital transfers and 
not to either over or underexposed. I no longer work with negative camera 
stocks so cannot provide any information in that regard.
Dominic


On Sep 4, 2021, at 7:18 AM, ev petrol  wrote:
thanks!!

moiratierney.net vimeo.com/moiratierney 

On Saturday, September 4, 2021, 5:01:55 AM GMT+2, FrameWorks Admin 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Moira.It’s supposed to automatically recognize ASA 25-400, which means 50D 
will be exposed at 40ASA, 200 at 200, and 500 at 400 ASA.See 
https://www.super8camera.com/cameras/canon-814-xls/Pip



On Sep 3, 2021, at 8:34 PM, ev petrol  wrote:
Hey folks,has anyone experience using the 50D, 200T or 500T neg with a Canon 
814 Autozoom?I'm wondering if the automatic lightmeter will expose correctly 
...?cheers Moira

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Re: [Frameworks] Kodak neg stocks with a Canon 814 Autozoom?

2021-09-05 Thread Jeff Kreines

> When transferring b/w reversal film to digital scans it is better to be 
> overexposed.

Don’t do it!!!  First, does the film appear properly exposed over a lightbox?
Is your meter accurate and are you using it accurately?  Is it processed 
correctly?

With any reversal stock always err towards underexposure. If you overexpose and 
blow out highlight detail it can’t be recaptured.  

The problems you had with your scans in Premiere could be caused by the scans 
themselves, or by the file format they were saved to.  Always try to save to a 
12-bit or 16-bit format with the most potential dynamic range. Also, when 
scanning, try to make the best use of all of those bits — don’t throw any away. 
 Never scan to an 8-bit format. And use Resolve.  You can often make a lousy 
scan look passable, or make a good scan look amazing. 

Jeff Kreines
Kinetta
j...@kinetta.com
kinetta.com


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