Re: gEDA-user: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread Ethan Swint
Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Tuesday 31 March 2009, DJ Delorie wrote:
   
 Hey, they have a 4.5 diamond blade that will fit in my table saw,
 
 too.  They don't say how wide it is, though.I think those are meant for 
 sawing concrete or ceramic tiles, so they are a 
 good fat 3/32 wide, and the ones I have wobble that to an eighth inch at 
 least.
   

The diamond blade that I have is also about that thick, but it doesn't 
wobble - you might have a problem with your arbor.  A cheap tile saw 
(~$65 at a hardware store) wouldn't be a bad idea - the water keeps down 
the dust - just so long as you have sufficient intra-panel clearance for 
the saw's kerf.


-Ethan


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Re: gEDA-user: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread Gene Heskett
On Wednesday 01 April 2009, Ethan Swint wrote:
Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Tuesday 31 March 2009, DJ Delorie wrote:
 Hey, they have a 4.5 diamond blade that will fit in my table saw,

 too.  They don't say how wide it is, though.I think those are meant for
 sawing concrete or ceramic tiles, so they are a good fat 3/32 wide, and
 the ones I have wobble that to an eighth inch at least.

The diamond blade that I have is also about that thick, but it doesn't
wobble - you might have a problem with your arbor.  A cheap tile saw
(~$65 at a hardware store) wouldn't be a bad idea - the water keeps down
the dust - just so long as you have sufficient intra-panel clearance for
the saw's kerf.

I made the arbor, seating face against which the blade rests, and the 1/2 
shank were all done on a small lathe without touching the chuck jaws.  I've a 
small dial indicator that has about .001 resolution, and it saw no wiggle, 
none.  Ell Cheapo chinese blades, I only have about 5 bucks each in a pair of 
them.  I intended to use them to sharpen carbide bits, but the diamonds were 
so coarse they actually chipped the carbide.  I was looking for edge linear 
speed since my spindle is only 2500 revs wide open.  So now I use that new 
quick change dremel arbor in a 1/8 collet, with about a 1.75 diameter 
diamond saw in it, that works fairly well, just slow when using a don't wake 
the child kiss touch.

Sorta off topic:

I have a rotary table for the A axis too, and was going to see if I could 
freshen the edges of some of my saw blades from the woodshop, but the first 
10 Hitachi thin kerf blade I laid on the jig to drill holes in near the hub 
so I could bolt it to the t-slots of the tables face educated me quickly.  4, 
1/4 decent quality drill bits later, I have dimples about 3/32 diameter in 
the blade.  Its going to take a carbide bit to drill that chrome plated 
Hitachi steel!

If anybody has a better idea, yelp.

They have to be draw blood sharp if you are going to get clean cuts without 
burning in cherry.  So far, only Hitachi and Avanti blades are that sharp 
still in the blisterpack at Lowes.  Bring money of course, a 60 tooth 12 
blade for the chop saw is about $70. 10 40 tooth for the table saw is about 
$40.

-Ethan


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There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Kaufman's Law:
A policy is a restrictive document to prevent a recurrence
of a single incident, in which that incident is never mentioned.



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Re: gEDA-user: rat width

2009-04-03 Thread Steven Michalske

On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:16 PM, Peter Clifton wrote:

 On Thu, 2009-04-02 at 18:59 -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:
 I am working on a design with a lot of small parts and pcb's default
 rat width is too wide to see what I'm doing.  I don't see a setting
 for this.  Where should I look?

 Add this to $HOME/.pcb/settings :

 rat-thickness = 3

 That forces it to be 3 pixels instead of a fixed size.  Values 0..19
 are pixels; anything larger is PCB units (i.e. 100 means 1 mil).

 Yuck, nastiness!

 That is just the kind of magic which will end up confusing people in
 years to come.

agreed,  I thought we had code that understood units of mil and mm.
Could that be extended to pixels (px)?
When exporting anything to physical, I would error/warn on px units.

 -- 
 Peter Clifton

 Electrical Engineering Division,
 Engineering Department,
 University of Cambridge,
 9, JJ Thomson Avenue,
 Cambridge
 CB3 0FA

 Tel: +44 (0)7729 980173 - (No signal in the lab!)



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Re: gEDA-user: DRC-GUI

2009-04-03 Thread Mark
On Thu April 2 2009 11:11:01 pm Peter Clifton wrote:
 On Thu, 2009-04-02 at 20:23 -0400, Mark wrote:
  I checked out the latest from git and ran the Design Rule Checker many
  times. It keeps crashing PCB.  It did work once right after I turned off
  Thin Draw Poly but has crashed every time since.  After running it
  through gdb it looks like it is sending PolygonHoles() a null for the
  range value.
 
  I've attached the debug.  Let me know if you want the layout.

 Hmm, GL version, or non-GL version?

GL version.  I pulled it twice last night because I saw the time stamp on your 
post was later than my first git-clone.

 If you have a minimal layout to reproduce, that would be excellent, as

A minimal layout would be nonsensical as it crashes even when it is just a 
single line.

 I've not seen any crash like that myself. I've been testing on boards
 with polygons (including holes), but never saw it crash).

It sounds like it might just be on my system, then.  

 I had better try to get to the bottom of this ASAP,

Would having a login account on my system help you?

 I just pushed the code into the master repository!.

The GL code too?

-Mark



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gEDA-user: Putting holes in hard steel - was - Re: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread andrewm

 If anybody has a better idea, yelp.
   

EDM ?


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Re: gEDA-user: Putting holes in hard steel - was - Re: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread evan foss
On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 6:36 PM, andrewm andr...@thehacktory.com wrote:

 If anybody has a better idea, yelp.


 EDM ?

Don't you aready need a hole to run the wire threw? Or are you just
going to live with a very thin line cut threw to the hole?

If your are going to spend EDM level money water jet would be better.



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Re: gEDA-user: stretching components

2009-04-03 Thread Stefan Salewski
On Wed, 2009-04-01 at 07:39 +0200, Bert Timmerman wrote:
 
 IIRC, these should be named CAPR:
 

Really?

I think R stands for Radial/Round? But the requested capacitors from
Epcos and Panasonic are rectangular.

CAPA stands for axial...

So what shall we use for the rectangular WIMA types, which look from the
side like

  
 ||
  
   ||


and from top like

  ---
 |  . .  |
 |   |
  ---


 
 CAPR-2750P-3050L-1900W-2600H_80d_Panasonic.fp
 CAPR-2750P-3050L-1900W-2950H_80d_Panasonic.fp
 CAPR-3750P-4150L-1800W-3250H_100d_EPCOS.fp
 

Yes, including pin diameter in the name seems to be useful. Hight will
not hurt.

I found this paper

http://www.pcbstandards.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=527d=1070488717

is my understanding that R stands for Radial/Round wrong?

Best regards

Stefan Salewski




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Re: gEDA-user: stretching components

2009-04-03 Thread John Luciani
On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 7:02 PM, Stefan Salewski m...@ssalewski.de wrote:
 On Wed, 2009-04-01 at 07:39 +0200, Bert Timmerman wrote:

 is my understanding that R stands for Radial/Round wrong?

In the document I have R is Radial,Round and also Radial,Oval.
Also CAPPR is Polarized,Radial and CAPPA is Polarized,Axial

I would assume that R is just Radial.

(* jcl *)

-- 

You can't create open hardware with closed EDA tools.

http://www.luciani.org


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Re: gEDA-user: stretching components

2009-04-03 Thread Stefan Salewski
On Sat, 2009-04-04 at 01:02 +0200, Stefan Salewski wrote:
 On Wed, 2009-04-01 at 07:39 +0200, Bert Timmerman wrote:
  
  IIRC, these should be named CAPR:
  
 
 Really?
 

OK, I think you are right.

At
http://www.luciani.org/geda/pcb/footprints-gif/CAPR-gif.html
CAPR really look rectangular in top view.
I have found no other pictures...

But the polar CAPPR seems to be really round.







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Re: gEDA-user: Putting holes in hard steel - was - Re: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 03 April 2009, andrewm wrote:
 If anybody has a better idea, yelp.

EDM ?

Humm, hadn't thought of that, but I did that a couple of years ago, removing 
some broken 6-32 taps from some blind holes about 3/4 deep. This was while 
building a new z axis drive for my micromill. PIMA to do, but it worked just 
fine if my time was only worth a nickle an hour, but when you are retired its 
sorta hard to place a value on time since nobody is paying me.  And I've since 
acquired some much healthier transformers and rectifiers, so it shouldn't take 
2 days per hole either.  They change my ability from .35 amps at 28 volts to 
about 5 amps at 65 volts, but my resistors 50 ohms, 400 watt, will limit that 
to a bit over an amp under short circuit.  Should make more better smoke that 
way. :)

Thanks for reminding me of that.  In this case, how about I get some of that 
brass tubing that's a bit over 7mm from the hobby shop and use that for 
electrode.  No use removing the plug in the middle .01 at a time. :)  
Maybe I could even drill a porthole in it, and run it through a tee with o-
rings to seal, and have a continuous kerosene flush, which would speed it up 
even more.  I also found it seemed to help if the spindle was turning the 
electrode about 50 rpm to stir the dielectric. Yeah, come some warmer weather 
I'll do just that.  Too cold for a diabetic with poor feet circulation to 
fiddle with now.  That shop building has very little heat, just enough to keep 
it above the dew point _most_ of the time.

Thanks!

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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: gEDA-user: Putting holes in hard steel - was - Re: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 03 April 2009, evan foss wrote:
On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 6:36 PM, andrewm andr...@thehacktory.com wrote:
 If anybody has a better idea, yelp.

 EDM ?

Don't you aready need a hole to run the wire threw?

A hole for a wire through it?  No.

Or are you just
going to live with a very thin line cut threw to the hole?

If your are going to spend EDM level money water jet would be better.

Drilling holes with EDM?   Straight plunge cut/burn.  Hole size determined by 
the electrode in this case.  Only milling machine motion if I get the right 
electrode size is z, at about .001 a minute, which emc can manage nicely.  I 
have everything but the right sized electrode on hand.  Even some trash that 
needs burnt by tossing the used kerosene on it. :)

-- 
Cheers, Gene
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
It seems a little silly now, but this country was founded as a protest
against taxation.



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Re: gEDA-user: Putting holes in hard steel - was - Re: the joy and sadness of new boards

2009-04-03 Thread evan foss
On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 8:24 PM, Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@verizon.net wrote:
 On Friday 03 April 2009, evan foss wrote:
On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 6:36 PM, andrewm andr...@thehacktory.com wrote:
 If anybody has a better idea, yelp.

 EDM ?

Don't you aready need a hole to run the wire threw?

 A hole for a wire through it?  No.

Or are you just
going to live with a very thin line cut threw to the hole?

If your are going to spend EDM level money water jet would be better.

 Drilling holes with EDM?   Straight plunge cut/burn.  Hole size determined by
 the electrode in this case.  Only milling machine motion if I get the right
 electrode size is z, at about .001 a minute, which emc can manage nicely.  I
 have everything but the right sized electrode on hand.  Even some trash that
 needs burnt by tossing the used kerosene on it. :)

Oh yea I was just thinking about wire edm not sink edm. Sorry.


 --
 Cheers, Gene
 There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
 -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
 It seems a little silly now, but this country was founded as a protest
 against taxation.



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