Re: [Gimp-user] Drop shadow
See attached for my very rough-and-ready 5-cell animation with a drop shadow. On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 12:37 PM ustharp wrote: > I am creating a GIF animation over a static background. I want the > background > to have a drop shadow. For some reason when I do this, my drop shadow > turns > solid... it does not fade out. It is just a solid offset layer. I can't > for > the life of me understand why. > > Any ideas? > > -- > ustharp (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) > ___ > gimp-user-list mailing list > List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org > List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list > List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list > ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
Re: [Gimp-user] Captioned newspaper photo
Wow this is above and beyond - definitely saved this message for future reference! signature.asc Description: PGP signature ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
Re: [Gimp-user] Drop shadow
I have an idea for you, but I have no idea whether or not you want to spend this kind of time greating an animated GIF. GiMP can of course do it, but you would almost be better off drawing the cells by hand and usinging your smart phone and a GIF-making app to get the final result. If you care creating a drop shadow, you are using layers to get there, right? Even the filter uses layers. But in GiMP, to make an animation, each cell has to be a layer -- so you must effectively flatten the layers every time you make a new cell. My thought is this: you need to have 3 images open: 1. Your master image in which you are creating each cell (using layers) 2. a "slave" image in which you flatten the master and then convert from RGB to indexed 3. your animation file, in which you paste each new cell as a layer as you convert it If that workflow doesn't make sense to you, I can give you more steps to follow. The idea is that you are doing the high-res, high-quality work in the master image; you are taking the master image each time you change it and flattening it down and reducing the colors for use in a GIF; and you are assembling the GIF in its own indexed-color file. Hope that helps! On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 12:37 PM ustharp wrote: > I am creating a GIF animation over a static background. I want the > background > to have a drop shadow. For some reason when I do this, my drop shadow > turns > solid... it does not fade out. It is just a solid offset layer. I can't > for > the life of me understand why. > > Any ideas? > > -- > ustharp (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) > ___ > gimp-user-list mailing list > List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org > List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list > List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list > ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
Re: [Gimp-user] Drop shadow
On 06/12/2018 09:41 AM, ustharp wrote: > I am creating a GIF animation over a static background. I want the background > to have a drop shadow. For some reason when I do this, my drop shadow turns > solid... it does not fade out. It is just a solid offset layer. I can't for > the life of me understand why. > > Any ideas? Unfortunately the GIF format does not support partial transparency (no alpha channel). If you know the exact background the GIF will be displayed on, you can use that background as an opaque layer - with a soft-edged drop shadow added where you want it. :o) I would suggest trying an animated PNG file, which supports partial transparency (alpha channel present) but alas, if your animation will be displayed on a web page, Inernet Explorer and MS Edge do not support that format (according to Wikipedia - may be old info). I never made an animated PNG file, so any advice on that including whether the GIMP can make them, or whether you would have to make the frames in the GIMP and assemble them with another program. :o/ ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
Re: [Gimp-user] Captioned newspaper photo
On Mon, 2018-06-11 at 22:05 +0200, lkl316 wrote:
> I have a captioned newspaper photo iI would like to clean up and make
> a photo on
> photo paper. It has some creases I would also like to repair. Has
> anyone
> attempted this and give me some guidance?
i've done a lot of this, and there's even books on the suject, although
only for PhotoShop™ and not GIMP as far as i know.
For example, i have Digital Restoration from start to finish, by Ctein.
Some rough guidelines without seeing what you have.
First, scan the image. Put solid black or green paper behind the single
sheet of newspaper to reduce show-through from the other side of the
paper. Use at least 1200dpi for the scan if you can. If it's black and
white you can scan in greyscale but try and get a good range of levels,
and use 10 or 16 bits per pixel.
Then, in GIMP, if it's a black-and-white picture, you can use
colours/levels/auto (at the expense of losing a tiny bit of detail) or
colours/curves, until you have black in the very darkest place and
white in the brightest.
Now, since you said it's a photo (as opposed to an engraving or
drawing), it'll be screened - lots of tiny dots.
You can decide to keep the dots, but then when you repair the tears and
marks with cloning you'll need ot be careful to keep the pattern of
dots perfect. It's doable but takes care and lots of control-Z (undo).
Or you may decide to get rid of the dots.
The simplest approach to get rid of the screen dots is to use
filters/blur/gaussian blur. You can use the Measure tool ("M") to
measure the average number of pixels between centres of dots - e.g.
count 10 dot-gaps and divide by 10 - and that's likely to be the radius
you'll want for the blur. If in doubt, copy a small pice of the picture
into a new image and experiment as it'll be faster.
After doing a blur, use image->scale and either cubic or linear
interpolation, and scale down to 10% of the original size. If your blur
radius was large enough you will not see any dots or patterns. You can
now use levls and/or curves again to increase the contrast and range a
bit, and then filters/enhance/unsharp mask... don't over do the unsharp
mask. if unsharp brings out the dots, use Undo, go back, increase tbe
blur radius, you want the minimum blur that gets rid of the pattern.
Note: there are more advanced ways to do the dewscreening using g'mic
and/or frequency decomposition but the results aren't usually much
better for newspaper images.
Once you've established that you can downscale the image without
introducing weird patterns, undo that and scale down to 20% instead, so
the image is twice as big as you want it.
Now use the clone tool with a soft round brush to work on the creases.
You may also need to select darker or lighter regions with the free
select tool, feather the selection by e.g. 30 pixels, and use curves,
to get rid of rust spots, fungal stains, water marks, lizard poo and so
forth.
If there's lizard poo you should disinfect GIMP after use :)
If you don't have a soft round brush make a new one, then in the tool
options for the clone tool set hardness to 85% or so, and radius e.g.
to 15 pixels, you can experiment. Depending on your keyboard, { [ } and
] may change the brush size so you don't need to look away from the
canvas.
For large areas it can be less work to make a "patch" from another part
of the image with select/feather/copy/paste.
Finally, scale down by 50% and use levels and/or curves and then
unsharp mask. Don't over do the unsharp mask.
Aim for 144dpi for the printed version, if possible, or 72dpi at the
lowest, in greyscale -- newspapers are printed with a 75-line-per-inch
dot screen usually so you're not going to get better than that.
The reason to scan at such high resolution is that the exact size of
each dot varies according to the image value in that region, so that
details in the original photo are hidden in the sizes of the dots. The
reason to use 16 bits per pixel when you scan is firstly that the
intermediate values around the edges of the dots are part of that
detail, and secondly that otherwise you can end up with very few
distinct colour values in your scanned image, and this can lead to
visible artifacts when you process it. If you went the blur route
that's less of a problem, but if you decided to keep the dots it can
make the cloning job really hard.
If the image is in colour it can help to separate the scan into CMYK or
RGB layers and blur them independently. You can also sometimes improve
print registration/alignment errors this way.
Liam/slave ankh
--
Liam Quin - web slave for https://www.fromoldbooks.org/
with fabulous vintage art and fascinating texts to read.
Click here to have the slave beaten.
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[Gimp-user] Drop shadow
I am creating a GIF animation over a static background. I want the background to have a drop shadow. For some reason when I do this, my drop shadow turns solid... it does not fade out. It is just a solid offset layer. I can't for the life of me understand why. Any ideas? -- ustharp (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
[Gimp-user] Drop shadow
>I am creating a GIF animation over a static background. I want the >background to have a drop shadow. For some reason when I do this, my >drop shadow turns solid... it does not fade out. It is just a solid >offset layer. I can't for the life of me understand why. > >Any ideas? It sounds like you are using the Gimp 2.8 drop shadow filter. Is that correct? For that to work the image is in RGB mode. Indexed color mode as used by gif only has transparency either on or off. Going from RGB to Indexed results in losing the drop shadow semi-transparent pixels. see screenshot 1 First thing to do in RGB mode is merge the background and drop shadow layers. Still in RGB mode you then have a choice. Either, lose the transparency of that bottom layer as screenshot 2 Layer -> Transparency -> Remove alpha channel Then export as an animated gif. see screenshot 2 Or, before exporting as an animated gif, convert to Indexed Mode. Image -> Mode -> Indexed and Enable dithering of Transparency. That gives the impression of shading. see: screenshot 3 rich: www.gimp-forum.net Attachments: * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/931/original/01-drop.jpg * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/932/original/02-drop.jpg * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/933/original/03-drop.jpg -- rich404 (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
[Gimp-user] Captioned newspaper photo
>I have a captioned newspaper photo iI would like to clean up and make >a photo on photo paper. It has some creases I would also like to >repair. Has anyone attempted this and give me some guidance? To be truthful, this forum with the mailing list format does not lend itself to detailed answers. Try one of the other forums, and give details. The operating system, version of Gimp, it does make a difference. All or part of the image, size in pixels etc. For repair, all depends on the image and to a certain extent how it is acquired. Preferably scanned at, at-least 300 pixels-per-inch (ppi) although a **good** photograph (camera-on-stand) with even lighting can work. Things to look up Newspaper images use half-toning, the image is made up of tiny dots. There are various third party plugings to improve this, one is fast-fourier-transform (FFT) not so easy for a beginner to understand. Another multi-tool is the gmic-gimp plugin www.gmic.eu This has a 'repair scanned document' filter which might help. Creases - depends where they are. Using the clone-tool/heal-selection-tool can take adjacent 'clean' areas and over-write the crease. Sometimes a crafted overlay in one of the layer modes will work. Vary rarely a one-click solution, that is the province of television CSI... -- rich404 (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
[Gimp-user] Captioned newspaper photo
I have a captioned newspaper photo iI would like to clean up and make a photo on photo paper. It has some creases I would also like to repair. Has anyone attempted this and give me some guidance? -- lkl316 (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
[Gimp-user] 2.10.2 Switching Input device disables interaction with anything but the canvas
Found a fix here: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111216001959AAVD7Te=1 ...although it's wonky, it works. Gimp needs to learn to recognize the active display on multiple screens... -- Gnurro (via www.gimpusers.com/forums) ___ gimp-user-list mailing list List address:gimp-user-list@gnome.org List membership: https://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list List archives: https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gimp-user-list
