Re: [Gimp-user] Highland for the world premiere of its

[Burnie West]

On 07/23/2014 03:34 AM, Michael Schumacher wrote:

of gimpusers.com

or gimpuser.com:-)
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Re: [Gimp-user] moving parf of an image

[Burnie West]

On 07/16/2014 11:07 AM, JLuc wrote:

Le 16/07/2014 19:41, Burnie West a écrit :

If I understand your question correctly, my answer is "probably not."
But I do not understand what you mean by "anchor it back to where it belongs 
to".
Do you mean you want a part of your image copied over on top of another part 
of your image (or maybe onto another

image), while the original selected location remains unchanged?
In that case, you select and copy, rather than select and cut, and paste.


No, i mean change its position in the same layer,
without duplication in final work
(hence, original selected location changes also)
JLuc
I imagine you may have created an image using several small sketches, and 
perhaps you wish to have one of the sketches in another place.
If it is your intent to move one or another of the sketches, then perhaps it is 
best to put each sketch in a single layer. Then you can move each sketch 
independently of all the others, and the entire group of layers will print to 
your "final work" (perhaps a png or jpg image). Layers are not intended to be 
"final works."


You can create one or more groups of layers in your overall image for this kind 
of activity.


  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] moving parf of an image

[Burnie West]

On 07/16/2014 10:19 AM, JLuc wrote:

'o

i'm getting used to gimp
but something still keeps me wondering "am i doing right ?" :
its how i move part of an image :
i select the part i wanna move (using any of the select tools),
cut and paste it in the floating selection layer,
move it (and possibly do other transforms),
and anchor it back to where it belongs to.

Is there some simpler way i'm not aware of,
for example without cut'n'pasting,
when all i wanna do is moving part of an image ?

If I understand your question correctly, my answer is "probably not."

But I do not understand what you mean by "anchor it back to where it belongs 
to".

Do you mean you want a part of your image copied over on top of another part of 
your image (or maybe onto another image), while the original selected location 
remains unchanged?


In that case, you select and copy, rather than select and cut, and paste.
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Re: [Gimp-user] Best way to remove a background of an image

[Burnie West]

On 01/20/2014 03:14 AM, Owen wrote:

3. Cut the shoes out and paste as new layer on preferred floor
What I always do for this is to use the free select (lasso) tool, with settings 
"Antialiasing" and "Feather edges" both selected, and a radius of 2 or 3 pixels. 
Then I expand the image to 400%, select carefully around the edges, invert the 
selection (shortcut Ctrl i), cut (shortcut Ctrl-x), and this produces the 
desired  image.


There is a "scissors" tool that is supposed to identify background edges, but I 
don't think it works very well.


   -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Exporting files

[Burnie West]

On 01/09/2014 12:50 PM, EGoldman wrote:

I had a point and shoot camera that only shot in Jpeg so after I did all my
levels and curve and contrast changes, I would always export as Tiff file so I
would have a negative/master file of my pic.

I have just bought a  Canon DSLR which I can now shoot in the Raw, my question
is after I make my color corrections, how should I export the file so I have a
negative/master?

Any guidance would be so appreciated.


The principal advantage of RAW images is the amount of data.  Your jpeg files 
will have been compressed using lossy algorithms before the camera ever 
delivered them, and image data will have been lost. Exporting to PNG prevents 
that. TIFF may or may not lose image data, depending I think on the settings. 
Anyway, I usually export to PNG. I just did an experiment; I have a 5K by 6K 
portrait. The image exported to PNG is 10.3 MB, to TIFF it is 29.8 MB using 
packbits compression, uncompressed it is 117.4 MB. I think packbits is not lossy.

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Re: [Gimp-user] gimp users matter

[Burnie West]

Appears you've accidentally hijacked a dispute thread - - -

On 01/04/2014 12:31 PM, Elle Stone wrote:

On 01/04/2014 03:09 PM, Phil wrote:


I have some pictures taken on an Sony DSC-W510 digital camera, and they
are/have become corrupted? the thumbnail shows up, in windows(win7) &
osx(10.6), debian 7.2 must be different as it shows the corruption up in
thumbnail preview, but when viewing the full picture, it only shows up a
corrupted view and this seems to be about 5 to 10 percent of the image
coming down.


That's not a good sign! Is it possible that the camera card to which the files 
were saved has some issues?


Or perhaps the files were corrupted during the save process even though the 
camera card is good? I've had this happen once or twice, but not to a whole 
bunch of images.


While you are at the command line, try converting the image to another file 
format: "convert image.jpg image.png" If that doesn't produce a readable 
image, probably the image really is corrupted.


Often the embedded thumb(s) is/are quite large and better than nothing. If the 
whole file can't be retrieved, if you want I can dig up the exiftool command 
for extracting the thumb.


Elle





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Re: [Gimp-user] gimp users matter

[Burnie West]

On 01/04/2014 04:17 AM, Simon Budig wrote:

qelvin5500 (qelvin5...@gmail.com) wrote:

*Creating pictures* is a job, developing a software to create these
picture is a different job.

Developing GIMP is a Hobby, not a Job.

Bye,
 Simon

Whether a job or a hobby, prioritizing effectively is probably *MOST* important.

In this regard, voluminous postings that are distracting and *UNNECESSARY*  is 
*ALWAYS* counterproductive.


Any posting that starts "I understand that the developers are ---" is 
counterproductive.


The notion that the marvelously effective GIMP developers were unaware of the 
discomfort this UI change would produce was gainsaid in earlier postings in this 
and related threads; I would encourage all those who are fans of GIMP and would 
like to have the ever-changing developer group get on with their priorities: 
please back off and let them be. I *WANT* CMYK; I *WANT* high-bit-depth; I 
*WANT* more robust undo history; I *WANT* more intuitive UI; I *WANT* a smoother 
work flow; I *WANT* - - -


I will not mention what my priorities are, but I can understand that the large 
community of users is likely to have a large number of subgroups each of which 
would agree on a profoundly different set of priorities than many of the other 
subgroups.


I am reminded of a comedian's remark some decades ago: "I wish those people who 
can't communicate would SHUT UP ABOUT IT."


 -- Burnie

PS - I apologize for distracting any members of the worldwide GIMP community who 
dislike being bothered by threads like these - please forgive.

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Re: [Gimp-user] Image

[Burnie West]

On 12/28/2013 09:03 PM, anandkrish wrote:

My Gimp works... please check it and give me some ideas and advices.

About what, exactly?

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Re: [Gimp-user] Why so COMPLICATED?

[Burnie West]

On 12/21/2013 02:28 PM, SirCrow wrote:

Hmmdidn't realize I'd done that.  Thanks.
Dingbat -- what the heck is that?  Edith Bunker comes to mind.

Printer's term: a small meaningless character (hence Edith Bunker in Archie's 
mind).
Typically used to separate two phrases. But I guess we're off topic here.

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Script for feathering edges

[Burnie West]

On 12/21/2013 01:00 PM, SirCrow wrote:

By the way, is there a way to not have to type in the 'challenge' every time I
want to post in this forum?  Can't always read those darned little things.
Also, can I not edit a post after I've made it?  If you happen to know.  Thanks.
Easiest way is to register on the gimp-users list itself, and not use the 
LadyYepperz dingbat.

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Re: [Gimp-user] HATE the new save vs. export behavior

[Burnie West]

On 11/04/2013 05:37 PM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:

Maderios has already been unsubscribed for repetitive violation of the
code of conduct.

?? - but M still posts?

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Re: [Gimp-user] album cover

[Burnie West]

On 10/23/2013 02:49 AM, rosea.grammostola wrote:

Wow, seperating the image to CMYK gives a very dissapointing result


Did you export to jpg? Recall jpg is lossy compression --
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Re: [Gimp-user] album cover

[Burnie West]

On 10/19/2013 09:03 AM, rosea.grammostola wrote:

If you put 720px in a converter you get 190mm.

I think you may be confusing print size and image resolution concepts...

If you meant 720 pixels per inch, your image would reduce by a factor of 10.

Perhaps you want 600 pixels per inch?

In any case adjusting PRINT SIZE and NOT scaling keeps the image crispness as 
it is.

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Re: [Gimp-user] Background help 101

[Burnie West]

On 09/24/2013 05:51 PM, glenda wright wrote:

How do I get a clean white background with GIMP when displaying items on my 
website?
It depends on your objective and your starting point. If you can clearly 
identify the area you want to be background, then remove it from the image. This 
might need you to use the lasso tool to outline the background, which might take 
some time - especially if it is in pieces.


If the background color is set to white (the default state) then exporting to 
jpg will produce your image with a white background.


If, however, you want the background to be the default background of your image 
(rather than simply "white"), you should add an alpha channel to the image, then 
remove the area that is supposed to be background (it will show up as a 
light-gray/dark-gray checkerboard), and export the picture to png.


If this doesn't help, perhaps you might rephrase your question. Some of the 
tutorials might also help.



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Re: [Gimp-user] Layer Opacity Access Point(s) Madness

[Burnie West]

On 08/30/2013 12:16 AM, Michael Natterer wrote:

TL;DR

Can you please say the same again, in a few readable sentences?

What is broken/missing?

On Thu, 2013-08-29 at 23:26 +0200, PSCS5ImagerConvert wrote:

>GIMP: Opacity Access Obscurity
>
I think the OP is concerned because the opacity slider does not affect the 
active layer.


I tried to adjust opacity of a filled layer by changing the slider but could 
never manage to see anything of the layer below. Seems like I could before 2.8.6 
but I don't use it much so I don't recall well.


Bucket fill of a region works reasonably; that's what I've used more often.
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Re: [Gimp-user] help me please

[Burnie West]

On 08/27/2013 03:14 PM, Partha Bagchi wrote:

Elle,

A wild guess (on my part ;)). The OP is looking for this:

http://twistedsifter.com/2012/08/amazing-car-cutaways-gallery/

Thanks,
Partha



On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Elle Stone  wrote:


Perhaps T.J. means he wants to remove the middle section of the car
and hook the top and bottom back together to make a modified version
of the car?

Could one of those amazing perspective/distortion tools help in such a
process (far more advanced than anything I've ever done)?

Elle

On 8/27/13, Alexandre Prokoudine  wrote:

On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:03 AM, T.J. Pavao wrote:

i just downloaded gimp and wanted to use it for some rendurings. i am

the

tech guy for loose screw kustomz.

For what?


i want to take a photo of a car cut it in half then lower it to see what
it will look like.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. If you remove part of an
image, there will be a blank space. What else do you expect to see?

Alexandre

I thought he maybe meant something like this --
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Re: [Gimp-user] Can Gimp superimpose text in landscape orientation on photo?

[Burnie West]

On 08/27/2013 07:02 AM, David Grant wrote:

Can Gimp superimpose text in landscape orientation on photo?
If you have a text page (possibly a pdf) you want superimposed, you first have 
to remove the (most likely white) background and sharpen the (probably black) 
text a bit. Then you will have to resize the text so it fits on the photo where 
you want it to be.


So --

Open the photo in gimp
Under the Open men pick "Open as layers" and select the text page.
You now have two layers, the text page on top of the photo, and within the 
boundaries of the text page the photo is not visible.
Make sure the text page is the active layer, then select by color the white 
background of the text page. Now the photo will show through.


 Adjust the range the the selection. Play with it. Maybe change the color of 
the text.


When you're happy, export the result. Save the xcf file in case you want to do 
more with it.


 Have fun.

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] How to fill areas of a rotated image...?

[Burnie West]

On 08/19/2013 03:43 PM, rhimbo wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm a very novice user so feel free to explain in detail!  And I apologize
for my ignorance of the proper terminology in posing my question.

I'm trying to rotate an image.  Actually, I figured out how to rotate it.  But I
can't figure out how to fill in the "empty" triangular areas that represent the
area between the edges of the original image and the horizontal and vertical
edges of the canvas.  I would like to fill these spaces so it is not obvious
that the image was rotated.  How can I do this?

What is the standard way to manipulate images in this manner?

I've attached a sample image that I rotated.

Thanks in advance.

Attachments:
* 
http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/66/original/restaurant-polidor-x.jpg
There is no routine way to "fill in the blank spaces." You would have to pick an 
acceptable fill color and live with the little triangles, or

crop the image to a rectangle containing only real picture elements.

Or you could apply your painting/drawing skill to fill in the triangles.

Your picture is reasonably rotated - however, the edges have been cropped to the 
"canvas" - the rectangle containing the original image.
In order to keep all the detail in the picture, you would have had to "Fit 
Canvas to Layers" - a selection under the "Image" tab.


Have fun, and keep exploring.

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] newbie question

[Burnie West]

On 08/18/2013 07:45 PM, t-4-2 wrote:

I am completely new to Gimp.
I have Gimp 2.8.6

I need someone to show me how to crop the head from one person and pasted to the
body of another person.

Thank you.

There are many ways.  Here's one.

1) Open the picture containing the "body of another person" in gimp [C-O]
2) In the image window, File menu, use the "Open as Layers" command to open the 
picture containing the head you desire. [C-Alt-O]
3) Use one of the "selection" tools (Rectangle, Oval, or Lasso) to select the 
head (you can use the Lasso tool to draw around the head itself).

4) Cut [C-x] or copy [C-c] the selection you've just made.
5) Under the Edit menu, use the Paste as New Layer command. The head will appear 
in the upper right corner of the image window.

6) Use the Move tool to place the head where you want it on the body picture.
7) Export the resulting picture, with the head of one on the body of the other, 
to a jpg or png image.

8) Save the xcf file so you can do a better job next time

If you do nothing other than exactly these eight steps, your result is not 
likely to be very satisfactory. The head could be the wrong size, the exported 
picture might be badly cropped, etc. So it will be important for you to learn 
how to use all the rest of the tools in the toolbox.


There are many simple tutorials available for these kinds of tasks.

Good luck.
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Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp 2.8.6 Windows - Queries new Plug-ins at every startup

[Burnie West]

On 08/16/2013 11:31 AM, Simon Budig wrote:

I believe it to be a bad idea that mails from"for...@gimpusers.com"  are
allowed on this mailinglist, it just confuses things.

+1

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Re: [Gimp-user] HATE the new save vs. export behavior

[Burnie West]

On 08/13/2013 11:48 AM, maderios wrote:


...Akkana
___


 That's all I can say
Regards
--
Maderios

Ah-h-hwish it were so
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Re: [Gimp-user] HATE the new save vs. export behavior

[Burnie West]

On 08/11/2013 01:38 PM, Jernej Simončič wrote:

On Sun, 11 Aug 2013 06:41:50 -0700, Richard Gitschlag wrote:


GIMP is the only application I know of where the selection mask is considered 
actual document content (rather than an interface entity used for manipulating 
document content).  That was a very workflow-breaking issue to come to terms 
with, and actually much more so than Save vs. Export.

In Paint Shop Pro and Excel the selection is also saved with document.

I actually find that behavior quite convenient. Sometimes I have a complex 
selection mask created that impacts multiple layers, and cannot complete the 
task until later. Saving the xcf with mask is very helpful.


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Re: [Gimp-user] HATE the new save vs. export behavior

[Burnie West]

On 07/19/2013 06:03 PM, Joseph A. Nagy, Jr wrote:

It's not your job to teach us anything.
Very true. However, it is also not a developer's job to respond to every whim of 
every user. This is simply not possible.


When a specificworkflow structure proves unwieldy for reasons not necessarily 
understood by all users, itbecomes necessary to make revisions (perhaps in the 
user interface) to rectify this issue, even at the expense of losing (not 
"loosing", by the way) some users who are unwilling to adapt.


In the commercial world, losing customers is expensive. Yet the expense must be 
borne when such a problem is identified.


In the FOSS world, the cost appears as flame wars rather than dollars. In the 
FOSS world, the cost is borne in complaints, rather than dollars.


WIkipedia's solution to the flame war problem is to close all new edits. This 
unfortunately tends to limit productive discussion.


The GIMP developers  solution appears to be to respond with impatience to new 
objections to old concerns. This also, unfortunately, tends to limit productive 
discussion - particularly when concerns earlier addressed (ad nauseum, in this 
case) are repeated without reviewing previous discussions.



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Re: [Gimp-user] How to move layer group

[Burnie West]

On 07/14/2013 08:53 PM, scl wrote:

On 15.07.13 at 04:58 AM Burnie West wrote:

Ihave created a layer group - I want to move it butit seems I must still
move one layer at a time.
Is there a way to move a layer group across an image?


Hi,

it depends on what exactly you're trying to achieve:

A) Move all the layers in that layer group to another (x,y) position:
1. In the Move tool check 'Move the active layer',
2. select the layer group in the Layers dialog,
3. move the layer group around with the Move tool. 

Thanks much.  This is what I was trying to do.
I simply did not review the tool options and try that one. My bad.

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[Gimp-user] How to move layer group

[Burnie West]

Ihave created a layer group - I want to move it butit seems I must still move 
one layer at a time.

Is there a way to move a layer group across an image?

 -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Off-canvas editing

[Burnie West]

On 06/09/2013 06:14 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:

On 06/09/2013 07:24 PM, Eduard Braun wrote:

Thanks for the workarounds, I appreciate them very much!

But to summarize, this seems to be an issue not just for me, right?
So is there a reason GIMP doesn't support off-canvas editing
out-of-the-box to make such workarounds unnecessary?
I mean, would there be any downsides of allowing editing content
outside the canvas borders? Are there any design limitations of the
underlying code that make it hard to impossible to implement such a
feature?

I'm guessing this is something nobody thought much about.  Very few
GIMP tools "go wrong" when working on and past the edges of a
canvas-sized layer - Gaussian Blur with a high radius and the
Healing Tool come to mind.

I wonder about how the interface would represent the edge of the
canvas, without shading image content that goes past the edge - a
problem if editing that content - or drawing lines effectively the
same as guide lines to show the canvas boundary.  In the latter
case, a plugin that automates the processes outlined earlier might
do the job for users who need to do this over and over.

:o)

Steve

With my limited experience, the behavior of off-canvas editing strikes me as 
reasonable as it is. Simply fitting canvas to layers usually works, but in the 
special case that the original canvas size (print, pixels, etc) wants to be 
preserved, the "workarounds" (i.e. specified workflows) require very few extra 
steps.


One downside to allowing off-canvas editing is that an inexperienced person 
might assume the edits outside the canvas are going to be a part of the picture. 
When that person finishes, exports the image, and closes the file, the 
off-canvas work is all lost.  Is that what he or she wants?


  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Off-canvas editing

[Burnie West]

On 06/09/2013 11:14 AM, Steve Kinney wrote:

On 06/09/2013 12:11 PM, Eduard Braun wrote:

Hello everybody,

I don't now if this is just a stupid question or if this is a
software limitation or if there is even a setting for it I haven't
found yet but why are we not able to edit layers outside the canvas?

I often create images were the canvas size is fixed (e.g. display
resolution). I then add layers to it that are often larger than the
canvas. I would now want to select the superfluous parts of the just
added images (e.g. to make them transparent), but I can't select
parts of the layers that are not on canvas!

I also can not see any layer content that is off-canvas. A workflow
I'd prefer would be copy everything somewhere (not necessarily
inside the canvas) and then align it layer by layer, which is hard
when one can not see the content of the off-canvas layers.

I hope my question is clear and am looking for your answers!

Hey Eduard,

I don't think we can do much other than apply a layer-wide filter,
to edit image content that is off the canvas.

In situations where I need to work with things that are off the
canvas, I make the canvas large enough to hold everything that
extends past the intended "final" dimensions of the image, then crop
the image or restore the original canvas dimensions later.

To keep track of the original canvas boundaries, add guides by doing
control-a (select all), followed by image > guides > new guides from
selection, followed with control-shift-a (select none) and image >
fit canvas to layers.

The guides mark the boundaries of the original and/or final canvas,
and make it easy to crop the image to those dimensions.  Or, select
the area marked by the guides and do Image > Fit Canvas To Selection
to restore the original canvas dimensions and preserve the
off-canvas content.
Another method I've used is to create a new layer the required canvas size 
named, e.g. TargetCanvas, filled with anything you want. This layer simply sits 
behind the background, and is made invisible until you need to trim the canvas 
for export.


Then, as Steve suggested, create a larger canvas big enough for all you need to 
do. Do all the manipulating you want, and when you're done, then save the xcf 
file so you can go back where you were in the editing phase and fix it if it 
turned out wrong.


Then, make the TargetCanvas layer visible and active, Select All, crop to 
selection, turn off the TargetCanvas layer, and export (e.g. to png or jpg). At 
this point, don't save (to the xcf file) because if you now save this working 
version your oversize work canvas will be lost.


I find this workflow quite comfortable.

  -- Burnie


The workflow is reasonably clean, and
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Re: [Gimp-user] Folder display

[Burnie West]

On 05/10/2013 09:31 AM, Liam R E Quin wrote:

Linux is a registered trademark of Linux Torvalds

um-m -- Linus Torvalds ?
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Re: [Gimp-user] Need help with translucent image

[Burnie West]

On 04/29/2013 02:58 AM, PieceKeepr wrote:

I'm trying to expand a translucent image and keep the coloration even
throughout.  The original image is flat on top and fades to a darker color near
the edge.  I've tried everything I know how to do (admittedly not much) with no
success.  I attached a portion of the image to make it easier to understand what
I'm dealing with.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Attachments:
* http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/34/original/Help.png
Looks to me like this is a grayscale filter, and you are attempting to get 
constant transparency of pure gray.


If so, and the filter is itself a separate layer, then simply select by color 
the filter area and set the threshold at about 240 (be sure not to enable 
"select transparent areas"). This should select the entire filtered area, and 
leave the transparent section unselected.


Cut (ctrl-X) the selected area, leaving just the selection itself.

Then, bucket fill the selected area with black with the opacity that you desire 
(looks to me about 45).

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Re: [Gimp-user] Download of GIMP in 'wrong' language !

[Burnie West]

On 04/15/2013 04:19 PM, Kevin Cozens wrote:

set the LANG(?) environment variable

From Fedora 18 release notes: - ymmv:


 2.3.2.2. |/etc/sysconfig/i18n| has been replaced by |/etc/locale.conf|

Environment variables and configuration directives now belong in 
|/etc/locale.conf|. The locale settings configured here are system wide and 
inherited by every service or user, unless overridden or unset by individual 
programs or users.

For more information, see |man locale.conf

export LANG=en_US.UTF-8
|
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Re: [Gimp-user] Post GIMP File Management, Organizing & Viewing/Simpler Alternatives & Options PLEASE READ & HELP!!! How Make .JPG Files More Like Tiles or Icons. Once Moved They Stay Set

[Burnie West]

On 04/12/2013 08:33 AM, FriendlyBeginner wrote:

Hello Jay,

With GimpUsers forum, am I supposed to type above or below what I'm responding
to? If I select and start typing below the responders text, does this
automatically create the window at the top of my response in the final view?

Jay...I have thousands of cards, not just "things to do" cards, with a lot of
scribbling & writing on them; sometimes a lot of tiny scribbling, drawing etc
whatever.


I believe you are following a pretty good path, but one so far outside the scope
of GIMP that the answers you've received so far are missing your main goal.

You've used GIMP very effectively to capture your cards. What I believe you
want to do next is reorganize them - and to update and change your mind
about the organization whenever it feels right.

Jay is suggesting a data base approach - but it seems to me you just want to
move things around by dragging them from one folder to another. Unless you
have a way to capture the scribbles and interpret them, you most
likely will find displaying your folder contents as icons and dragging them
from one to another is pretty much all you can do.

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] unsupported file format

[Burnie West]

On 03/05/2013 02:38 PM, rht wrote:

By doing a simple copy changing the extension from "tiff" to "tif" [cp
input.tiff output.tif] the file now opens.

Surely this is not correct *nix behaviour?

Robert

Is it possible that somehow Ubuntu has adopted the Windoze convention that only 
three-letterextensions are valid?

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Re: [Gimp-user] Creating Transparent Text

[Burnie West]

On 02/19/2013 09:23 AM, Helen wrote:

Sorry!!!   I can't see to do this in one mailing!   I did
do the color - color to alpha before I did the
copy/paste as brush.  Thanks for your patience.

It looks to me like the original signature scan had the artifacts around it.

I followed that process and produced this result (brush on two colors).
The original initials were black ball-point on white paper; the gray levels
from pressure variation.

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] import vs open

[Burnie West]

On 02/18/2013 11:15 AM, Liam R E Quin wrote:

* File->Maderios behaves as "open" but when you press Ok it uninstalls
GIMP.:-)

+1.5
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Re: [Gimp-user] newvie asks differences between Gimp and Photoshop

[Burnie]

On 01/21/2013 03:49 PM, RogueRanger wrote:

When I make these, taking stock photographs and using the lasso selection tool
in CS4, I have an option by right clicking on my selection and choosing
'feather' which softens the edges of the selection and makes it look less like a
simple cut out. Does anyone know how to achieve the same result with Gimp?
Select the lasso (actually, any) selection tool in GIMP, check the "feather" and 
possibly "antialiasing" checkbox(es), then make your selection. You can adjust 
the amount of feathering; the feathering will approximately bridge the selection 
line, so the selection will include roughly r/2 pixels outside the line and r/2 
inside, where "r" is the feathering "Radius". The number "r" can be as small or 
as large as you like, in tenths of a pixel.

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Re: [Gimp-user] newvie asks differences between Gimp and Photoshop

[Burnie West]

On 01/21/2013 03:49 PM, RogueRanger wrote:

When I make these, taking stock photographs and using the lasso selection tool
in CS4, I have an option by right clicking on my selection and choosing
'feather' which softens the edges of the selection and makes it look less like a
simple cut out. Does anyone know how to achieve the same result with Gimp?
Select the lasso (actually, any) selection tool in GIMP, check the "feather" and 
possibly "antialiasing" checkbox(es), then make your selection. You can adjust 
the amount of feathering; the feathering will approximately bridge the selection 
line, so the selection will include roughly r/2 pixels outside the line and r/2 
inside, where "r" is the feathering "Radius". The number "r" can be as small or 
as large as you like, in tenths of a pixel.

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Re: [Gimp-user] layers, new problem with old methods

[Burnie West]

On 01/20/2013 04:30 PM, Richard Gitschlag wrote:
Now, if you know in advance you are going to be making a new layer out of what 
you're pasting, you can save yourself time and headaches by selecting "Paste 
As > New Layer" from the Edit menu, instead of the normal Paste.
Although if you do that, be aware that the new layer will be a rectangle 
containing the selection moved to the upper left corner of the canvas. If you 
want it to remain in place in the image, right-click on the floating layer and 
select To New Layer.


 -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Missing Group Layers

[Burnie West]

On 01/17/2013 07:30 PM, Montrosity wrote:

I've never seen a report like this. Are you able to reproduce this?
Try
a new small image, one that could potentially be attached to a bug
report.

Im not sure if I understand what you mean?


If you are not new to GIMP, then please ignore the following. I have not been
able reproduce your problem.

Assuming you are new to GIMP, what I believe Michael meant was this:

Just do what you had done to create a layer group using a simple image,
then save the file. If you started with a brand new .jpg, the fileyou saved will
have the same name but with extension .xcf, and if you reopen the .jpg file
it will be the one with which you started.You would need to open the .xcf file.

However, if you opened the file simple.jpg, did all your work on the layers
in the layer group, and then instead of saving it you clicked on the file 
selection
"Overwrite simple.jpg" the file saved would produce a jpg file with only one
layer. If you then tried to close GIMP, it would post a dialog asking you
"Save the changes to image 'simple.xcf' before closing?" If you thenclicked
on "Close without Saving" because you had overwritten the jpg file, then all
the layers would be lost and you would just have a single layer with all your
changes consolidated.

In that case, there would be no way to recover the individual layers.


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Re: [Gimp-user] Cannot Open jpegs/jpgs in GIMP

[Burnie West]

On 12/20/2012 06:58 AM, Robert wrote:

Hi Burnie
  See attached...

On 12/19/2012 09:42 PM, Burnie West wrote:

On 12/19/2012 06:40 PM, Robert wrote:

Hi
  I have a Fedora 17 distro installed on a couple of different machines.  I 
am unable to open pictures and scans, I have, which are in 'jpeg/jpg' 
format.  I understand the saving/exporting thing, but I am unable to even 
open them.
  I am using Kernel 3.6.6-1.fc17.x86_64 and Gnome 3.4.2. The version of Gimp 
I am using is 2.8.2-6.fc17.  I have been unable to get any assistance from 
the Fedora forums and/or bugzilla on this matter.  Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

What messages do you receive when you try to open these pictures?

GIMP does not open files suffixed .jpg unless they really are jpg files.
How about Owen's suggestion:
On 12/19/2012 09:46 PM, Owen wrote:

What is the output of this command  # file xx.jpg


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Re: [Gimp-user] Cannot Open jpegs/jpgs in GIMP

[Burnie West]

On 12/19/2012 06:40 PM, Robert wrote:

Hi
  I have a Fedora 17 distro installed on a couple of different machines.  I am 
unable to open pictures and scans, I have, which are in 'jpeg/jpg' format.  I 
understand the saving/exporting thing, but I am unable to even open them.
  I am using Kernel 3.6.6-1.fc17.x86_64 and Gnome 3.4.2.  The version of Gimp 
I am using is 2.8.2-6.fc17.  I have been unable to get any assistance from the 
Fedora forums and/or bugzilla on this matter.  Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

What messages do you receive when you try to open these pictures?
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Re: [Gimp-user] Question about the new sliders

[Burnie West]

On 12/05/2012 10:45 AM, Liam R E Quin wrote

To be clear, see the enclosed image. The slider with the word Threshold
on it is an example.

How about --

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Re: [Gimp-user] finding layers after file has been closed (.... so much for the new export/save methods)

[Burnie West]

On 11/18/2012 01:13 PM, jenn golden wrote:
However, this is an excellent illustration that this "controversial" change in 
the save/export methods is not a perfect solution either.
On the good side, however, Jenn is happy to have "learned the lesson" -- and is 
fully up to speed with the difference between save and export.


  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] finding layers after file has been closed

[Burnie West]

On 11/18/2012 12:09 PM, jenn golden wrote:
Is there a way to get back all of your layers once you save a file and close 
out of it? I am new and am creating magazince covers - All I need to do is 
change the pic - but did not want to have to re-create the entire cover if I 
did not need too Thanks!
Are you using gimp 2.8? If so, when you "save" the file all the layers are 
retained (unless you specifically merged them). You would "export" to (e.g.) jpg 
or png, and then save to xcf format. Loading the .xcf version should still have 
all the layers. Loading the exported .png or .jpg version would not.


  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Change background and leave foreground

[Burnie West]

On 10/26/2012 11:41 AM, Burnie West wrote:

On 10/26/2012 08:10 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:

Fran,

The general principle is:

1. Select objects with selection tools.
2. Cut and paste them to a new layer above the original layer (Ctrl+X, 
Ctrl+Shift+V).

This doesn't work for me - it creates a new image not a new layer.

I've had more success using the free select tool doing a piecewise-linear 
close boundary around the object(s).


I usually use antialiasing with feathered edges set at radius 2 pixels, trace 
around the foreground objects (at whatever level of magnification I find most 
convenient) using the sliders on the bottom and right to focus on where I am 
working, and then (Ctrl-x, Ctrl-V, Layer->New Layer) to keep the image 
properly placed within the background.
By the way, while you are making this piecewise linear selection, be very 
careful NOT to click in either of the rulers at the top or left of the image 
window (if they are displayed) because the selection you've already made will 
disappear and you'll have to start all over. This is a known bug.


If the image is complex enough to break it in pieces to separate the 
background, then don't use antialiasing or there will be cut-line residues.



3. Change the background layer so that the object are unaffected.

There are many ways to select objects. I suggest you have a go at 
http://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/gimp-tool-foreground-select.html.
This process is a new one for me - it seems at first try to take as much 
detailed attention and more work. I've also tried the scissors tool but it 
can't trace around edges as well as my hand-done piecewise linear feathered 
edges approach.


  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Change background and leave foreground

[Burnie West]

On 10/26/2012 08:10 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:

Fran,

The general principle is:

1. Select objects with selection tools.
2. Cut and paste them to a new layer above the original layer (Ctrl+X, 
Ctrl+Shift+V).

This doesn't work for me - it creates a new image not a new layer.

I've had more success using the free select tool doing a piecewise-linear close 
boundary around the object(s).


I usually use antialiasing with feathered edges set at radius 2 pixels, trace 
around the foreground objects (at whatever level of magnification I find most 
convenient, using the sliders on the bottom and right to focus on where I am 
working, and then (Ctrl-x, Ctrl-V, Layer->new layer to keep the image properly 
placed within the background.


If the image is complex enough to break it in pieces to separate the background, 
then don't use antialiasing or there will be cut-line residues.



3. Change the background layer so that the object are unaffected.

There are many ways to select objects. I suggest you have a go at 
http://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/gimp-tool-foreground-select.html.
This process is a new one for me - it seems at first try to take as much 
detailed attention and more work. I've also tried the scissors tool but it can't 
trace around edges as well as my hand-done piecewise linear feathered edges 
approach.


  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] alpha channels vs masks

[Burnie West]

On 09/27/2012 09:09 AM, Elle Stone wrote:

So again, is there anything that can be done using an alpha channel,
that can't be done using masks and layers, or vice versa?

Normally, when I want a transparent background in a WEB image
I will use the alpha channel. Never tried to do that with layer masks.

How do you export an irregular foreground image with only alpha
background to png and retain the transparency in the bounding rectangle?

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] GIF layers

[Burnie West]

On 08/21/2012 01:24 PM, Marco Ciampa wrote:

On Tue, Aug 21, 2012 at 08:50:27PM +0200, ubuntulistener wrote:

Hello,

Is there a way to select all the layers in the Layers Window?  is:
I've got a GIF animation that's comprised of 590 individual layers, and
to work on specific layers, It'd be convenient to be able to hide all
the layers other than the layer I'm working on - maybe with a dialog
under Layers>>Stack>>Select all Layers>>Hide, or an "eye" checkbox at
the top or bottom of the Layers window that would select all layers,
thereby allowing me to "unhide" the selected layer by checking the "eye"
,(show), checkbox of the relevant layer.


Currently, the only way I know of to work on a specific layer within
such a stack is to move the layer to the top of the stack so it becomes
the  visible layer, perform the work, then return the layer to its
original location.

Thanks

Why not read the wondeful GIMP manual? It is even translated... ;-)

http://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-dialogs-structure.html#gimp-layer-dialog

Layer visibility

 In front of the thumbnail is an icon showing an eye. By clicking on
 the eye, you toggle whether the layer is visible or not.
 (Shift-clicking on the eye causes all other to be temporarily
 hidden.)

The word "temporarily" is misleading. The other layers remain
hidden until their eye icon is clicked. However, this is hardly worth
a bug report.
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Re: [Gimp-user] A plug-in for those who still don't like the new Save/Export

[Burnie West]

On 08/20/2012 04:23 AM, maderios wrote:

On 08/20/2012 02:15 AM, Chris Mohler wrote:

Ah.  My mistake.

I'm adapting to the new save/export workflow,

 so haven't needed to

install your plug-in and didn't quite grasp what it was doing


Hi
Explanation: this plugin simplifies the life of people who use Gimp as a 
working tool.

and don't want to take the time to adapt - - -

As the biologists have been teaching for more than a century, it is best to 
adapt as change / evolution never ends
Not all change at first blush to be an advance; and some motion feels very 
regressive (like forest fires).
Of course, some change is not an advance, and here I particularly refer to wars 
- and of course in the current context, flame wars

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Re: [Gimp-user] how to exposing more tiff load options for scripting

[Burnie West]

On 08/18/2012 02:08 PM, Tim Dickson wrote:
I am trying to load single pages from multipage tiffs, convert them to 
monochrome (dithered), flatten the image, then save them as single monochrome, 
ccitt group4 tiffs. - all through scripts.


The multipage tiffs contain pages in grayscale and colour which were created 
using the old style (problematic) jpeg compression option.


I have tried other tools, such as libtiff (modified with a patch to handle the 
old jpeg compression), and the latest version of imagemajick. Unfortunately 
they cannot correctly convert the files, whereas gimp can, but only one page 
of the multi-page tiff at a time
(gimp crashes if I load a 5page document (as separate images) then convert 
each image to monochrome,flatten and save in one session)
Are you using a developmental version (2.9 --)? If not, the crash itself 
warrants a bug report.


the scripting function for loading tiffs
file-tiff-load
does not expose the options to load individual pages, or to select loading as 
images or as layers, which the visual file load/import does.


does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can achieve this using a script.?
manually is not a problem, but too time consuming for large (eg. 200page) tiffs.
thanks, tim
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Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp-2.8_Save and save as bad behavior

[Burnie West]

On 08/14/2012 08:07 AM, Ken Warner wrote:

1) What if saving a flattened image is exactly what I want to do.

It's easy - just export it

2) It is not exactly true that "further work is near impossible".

But without the layers saved separately it's a lot more complex
 -- of course, depending on specifically what "further work" you want to do.
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Re: [Gimp-user] Timeline for sequenced layers - a hybrid compositor

[Burnie West]

On 08/13/2012 02:05 PM, Aditia A. Pratama wrote:


Thanks ofnuts for notifying us about link icon :)

Just addendum, it'll be more efficient if we can apply filters or color 
balancing/correction to all layers.


I thought at first using layer group will solve the issue, but afaik it only 
work for tranformation, like scaling all layers and align to center option.


IMO, it would be cool somehow if layer group will handle color correction and 
filters as well.



Sounds like a good plug-in idea - - -

  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] A plug-in for those who still don't like the new Save/Export

[Burnie]

On 08/12/2012 08:20 AM, R Kimber wrote:

Or even making widely used plugins like 8bf work in Gimp

bug #?
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Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP won't handle simple copy-and-paste?

[Burnie West]

On 07/17/2012 05:14 AM, Richard Gitschlag wrote:

> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 17:53:09 +0200
> From: schum...@gmx.de
> To: gimp-user-list@gnome.org
> Subject: Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP won't handle simple copy-and-paste?
>
> > Von: Keith Purtell 
>
> > I open and copy the middle screen capture, then paste into my xcf. Then I
> > have the middle as a new layer, and need to trim off part of the bottom of
> > that layer. I draw a rectangle around the part of the new floating layer
> > that needs to be removed. The moment I've done that, everything else on
> > the layer that is not inside the selection rectangle disappears.
>
> At that time, is it a new layer already or still a floating selection?
>
>
> Regards,
> Michael
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I've tried the same steps myself.  If it is a normal layer then everything's 
fine - however if it is still floating then the select tools produce this 
cropping-like behavior.  Is that deliberate?
Seems to me it is. The floating selection appears to be intended to modify the 
layer from which it was taken; it does not extend that layer's boundaries.


  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Wacom tablet devices grayed out

[Burnie West]

On 06/15/2012 05:15 AM, Sybren A. Stüvel wrote:

Hi Michael,

On 15 June 2012 13:48, Michael Schumacher > wrote:


See http://forum.wacom.eu/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9787
 - Wacom suggest that you
use their configuration application to remove tablet settings.


Yup, that did the trick. Strangely enough after that I could put the settings 
back to where I set them in the first place, and things kept working.


No idea if GIMP (or rather GTK+) should be able to pick up the tablet
regardless of their existence, or if these settings prevent it from doing 
so.


It would help if the GIMP GUI would tell me what being grayed out actually 
means. Now there is no indication, except that "it's different from the 
non-grayed out core pointer".
Thought grayed out meant "is not possible in the current state of things." Is 
that not what it means in the GIMP?


Thanks for the quick help!

--
Sybren A. Stüvel

http://stuvel.eu/




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Re: [Gimp-user] saving an overexposed image

[Burnie West]

On 06/03/2012 10:16 PM, nnaemekadavid wrote:

  Please, can anyone advise me further on what to do to this photo.
the original jpg file:
www.flickr.com/photos/odimegwudavid/7315025394
the file i have edited so far in png:
www.flickr.com/photos/odimegwudavid/7314917446/
  I have outlined the steps I have carried out so far below while attempting
to save the overexposed photo.
It looks to me like this is a scanned hardcopy. If so, you might be able to get 
more by rescanning.
Try scanning with several different intensities to see if there is anything 
latent in the image that is not available in the jpg.



1. Fixed the dynamic range. Colors>  Levels. Move black point to 46 and
white point to 251.
2. correct the exposure. First duplicate the image layer. Colors>
Desaturate using luminosity. Change blending mode to multiply. Duplicate the
multiply mode layer call it highlights. Change the blending mode of
highlights layer to screen. Create “new from visible layer”.
3. correct again for shadows and highlights using the shadows and highlights
filter at the gimp plugin registry with values, shadows 50, highlights 50.
4. apply color correction again using threshold and Levels tool. Using the
threshold tool, pick the black, white and gray point (for the gray point, I
filled a transparent layer with 128, 128, 128 and then mode difference and
merged it with the layer below it). Using the black, white and gray sample
points, I did Colors>  Levels, and fixed these points.
That is my editing so far an I got this image. Who can advise me on what
step to carry out next.



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Re: [Gimp-user] This is the sixth Time REMOVE ME from List

[Burnie West]

On 06/01/2012 09:10 AM, Alec Burgess wrote:

Just curious, I don' want to unsubscribe 
Checking mail headers, I see these lines:

List-Unsubscribe:,


If I *were* to send an email to:

gimp-user-list-requ...@gnome.org
with subject unsubscribe

would that unsubscribe me w/o having to visit the URL 
.../listinfo/gimp-user-list ?
Yes, but only if your  email address -  the one you used to transmit that 
message - was the one you used when you signed up originally.



On 2012-06-01 05:00, Kevin Brubeck Unhammer wrote:

Jason Thompson  writes:

>  I can't not log into my account it never sends me a email back requesting 
a change of my
>  password so I can log on to stop this flooding of 50 emails a day in my 
account this is

>  the sixth time I been asking.

You don't need a password to unsubscribe, simply enter your email
address athttps://mail.gnome.org/mailman/listinfo/gimp-user-list  in the
very bottom box, click "Unsubscribe or edit options", then click the
"Unsubscribe" button on the next page. You will however have to click
the confirmation link (check your spam folder).

BTW, you could also set up a filter so it doesn't flood your inbox:
http://help.yahoo.com/tutorials/mmail/mmail/mm_filter1.html

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Re: [Gimp-user] small picture

[Burnie West]

On 04/13/2012 07:27 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:

Yes, Scale Image indeed. I just don't use English UI all that much, sorry :)

On Fri, Apr 13, 2012 at 6:24 PM, Seth Burgess  wrote:

I expect you meant Image>  Scale Image, or has that changed recently?

Seth

On Fri, Apr 13, 2012 at 9:14 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine
  wrote:

Please use Image>  Image Size menu item instead.

If you meant the size that gets printed, the menu item to use is
"Image -> Print Size"
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Re: [Gimp-user] Crop to oval?

[Burnie West]

Hi, Ronald -

Seems to me what you are trying to do is really easier than all this.

1. Click on the Ellipse Select tool to get your oval selection.
2. Click on the little "Feather Edges" checkbox in the "Ellipse Select" tool. 
You can experiment with the "Radius" setting to get the amount of shading you want.
3. Select your oval - a bit larger than the picture because the shading tends to 
center on your selected boundary.
4. In the Select menu at the top of the window, pick "Invert". Now you have 
marching ants around the oval and also around the entire image.

5. CTRL-X (Cut).

At this point you have your oval the way you want it .

What you really wanted to know, though, is that the annoying checkerboard really 
indicates a transparent background.


 It's replaced by white if you simply Save As yourPicture.jpg.

The JPG save will complain about that b/c jpg does not handle transparency, and 
when you save it the "transparency" checkerboard automatically fills white.


There are subleties here that you will find interesting.

If you right-click in the Layers, Channels box,  a menu appears with a bunch of 
submenus. Select the Layers menu, then the Transparency submenu, and you will 
have a menu item saying Remove Alpha Channel. Click that, and your white 
background appears for you.


You can get it back by following the same selection, and then you will find the 
Remove Alpha Channel menu item gray, and you can now Add Alpha Channel.


If you want to save your portrait in a form that can show up on a webpage with a 
colored or patterned background, export to PNG rather than JPG.


Have fun, tho - that's what it's all about.

On 03/30/2012 05:08 PM, Ronald F. Guilmette wrote:

In message<4f763699.3000...@gmail.com>,
Stefan Maerz  wrote:


On 03/30/2012 03:19 PM, Ronald F. Guilmette wrote:

Anyway, a relative just sent me an old old family photo that some nitwit,
perhaps a generation or two ago, did some seriously violence to with a pair
of scissors.  To salvage this one and to make it look presentable I really
need to be able to take the scan I have of it and crop it into a oval shape.
(Yes, it is a portrait.)

P.P.S.  For bonus points, somebody please also explain to me how to fade
the edges of the oval slowly to white.  that would be really cool, and
would, I'm sure, impress the bejesus out of some of my relatives

Hi Ronald,

Gimp's user interface is a bit hard to learn at first. Just do some
tutorials, and you'll pick it up in no time.

Any suggestions for which ones?  URLs?


For your question, I don't know of a way to do this without the use of
layers.

With the oval selected, press CTRL+X to cut it out.
Then do a CTRL+V To paste the oval. This puts the oval into a "Floating
Selection". It is almost like a layer, but not quite.

OK, I did what you just said.


Now a little about Gimp's interface: You have three windows. In "Layers,
Channels, Paths, Undo - Brushes, Patterns, Gradients" there is an area
for Layers (you probably know this).

I'm still on the early/steep part of the learning curve, but yes, I've seen
that one.


At the bottom of the layers area
(above brushes) and to the left is a create new layer. Press it this
turns the "Floating Selection" into a layer.

Hummm... OK.  Yes, I see.  Now it says "Pasted Layer" next to it, instead of
"floating layer".


Next you can select on the other layer (Titled "Background" by default),
and delete it by right clicking and pressing "Delete Layer". At this
point you should have your image as you desire.

Okey dokey.  Yes.  So now I got just my oval'd pic on top of the checkerboard.

Question:  *Now* what the bleep do I do?  I gotta put some 255-white into
the rest of the rectangle that's not covered by the oval.  So how do I do
that?  And then how do I subsequently smush my oval pic together with the
outer whiteness and save the whole shebang together as a single JPEG?
(Do I gotta do a "flatten layers" in here somewhere?)

(Sorry, but I really am ignorant, as you see.  So even though what I'm asking
is probably very basic, I still have no idea how to do this.)


Instructions for feathering (the bonus points):

If your oval's layer isn't selected for any reason select it now.

OK, hold on.  When you say "select it now" do you just mean that I should
place and size my oval, you know, and then just leave it with the marquee
outline flashing around it?  Or once it has been placed and sized to my
satisfaction, do I need to do one more step, e.g. place the cursor inside
the oval and then either left-click or else hit return?  (I know that I
always have to do the latter when I am cropping to a rectangle.  In fact
that's one of teh very few tghings that I _do_ know.)


Then pick the "Select by Color Tool" from the Toolbox. Set the threshold to
255(in the bottom half of the toolbox) and click on your oval. This
selects your oval...

Hummm... if I have placed and sized my oval to my satisfaction, and then I
click on the lttle "Select by Color Tool" icon (and

Re: [Gimp-user] moving floating layers

[Burnie West]

On 03/03/2012 02:25 PM, Kevin Brubeck Unhammer wrote:

"Dan ."  writes:


Hi Kevin,

 From my experience, after pasting a new object in order to create a new layer, 
in the
layers menu there should be Floating Selection ("pasted Layer") like Burnie 
wrote. For
me, I right-click the "pasted layer" and select "New Layer", and the pasted 
object shows
up as a new layer. From there, I make sure I deselect everything (SELECT>  
NONE), and
then use the move tool (making sure the cursor is over the pasted object) to 
click on
the object in your new layer in order to move it. Hope that is of some help.

You can move it first too though (then press ctrl+shift+N to turn it
into a regular layer). I find that quicker, but whatever floats your
boat. Layer. Whatever.

In my experience, there are many instances wherein actions involving a Floating 
Selection behave differently than those involving individual (properly 
"anchored") layers. I chose to describe this approach because Kevin had 
(possibly) run into such a case.


  - Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Trying to move layer; only outline will move

[Burnie West]

On 03/02/2012 07:08 AM, Keith Purtell wrote:
I've read the official tutorial several times and yet the directions aren't 
working for me. I pasted in a layer which shows up fine in the layers box. The 
active layer is the one I pasted in. The Move tool is set to "Move the active 
layer." I've tried using the Move tool by both dragging and clicking and 
dragging. In either case, the new layer doesn't move, only the outline 
(marching ants). I've got a huge project to complete today and can't spend an 
hour just trying to get GIMP to move a layer. Tips?

Keith
The newly pasted layer must be anchored before it can be moved. Your layers menu 
likely shows the words Floating Selection ("pasted Layer") If so, then the layer 
must be be anchored first. Under the layer menu, select "Anchor Layer"


  - Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Saving file as a PDF?

[Burnie West]

On 02/18/2012 07:02 PM, lckrkrzypatch wrote:

Is it possible to save files as PDF like photoshop?
Normally when I want a GIMP image in pdf format, it would be to include it in a 
multi-page document. I would use LibreOffice to complete the formatting using 
.png images saved from GIMP, and export from LibreOffice to pdf.


I have no idea otherwise about what doing it "like photoshop" would mean other 
than what has already been suggested.


  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Web development question?

[Burnie West]

On 02/18/2012 04:01 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:

Actually I use semantic markup via standards compliant xhmtl 1.0 and
CSS 2.1.  As an example, the pages in my silly little personal site
look and work the same in Firefox, Opera, Chrome, Safari, Epiphany,
Konqueror, Midori and IE8.  I did not have to tweak anything to
accomplish that level of cross browser compatibility - that's what
W3C Standards are for and, thank God, Microsoft has finally
capitulated and the browser wars are over.

I use a few alternate CSS declarations in an auxiliary style sheet
to correct rendering errors in IE6, because some people are still
using it, and the way IE6 is broken affects the main navigation
menu.  Those are the only IE6 errors I bother to correct.

Visitors to the site who are using IE6 or 7 are greeted by a
security warning and upgrade link on every page, wrapped in a
conditional comment whose contents are only visible on the offending
browsers.

:o)

Elegant, Steve - Thanks for the suggestion, and  also for promoting W3C 
awareness.
  -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] Web development question?

[Burnie West]

On 02/16/2012 03:20 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:

On 02/16/2012 05:25 PM, Burnie West wrote:

On 02/16/2012 01:54 PM, Frank Gore wrote:

On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 4:48 PM, Xiella
Harksell   wrote:

As a point of difference :)

I find myself tending to save the majority of my images (in
terms of
developing the site - stripes, decorations, non-content stuff) as
PNGs.

You're not the only one, the vast majority of professional web
designers use PNGs as a flexible way of displaying images in
browsers.
The last browser I know of that didn't support PNG files properly
was
IE6... and can we count how many years old that is?

Usage is down to something around 5% on most sites I have seen
recent statistics for.  Considering the security aspect, it's really
not doing anyone a favor to support IE6 any more...  But the moment
I stop writing alternate style sheets for it, I just "know" my next
client will be running it in Win2k and asking me why the pages are
all broken and stuff.  :o)


There is  a minor but sound reason for using png rather than jpg
in many of
these cases - the fact that png is lossless. It does result in
somewhat larger
files, but if the specific image wants to be compressed to an
indexed-mode jpg
for file size reasons, a png background is I believe somewhat less
likely to
create artifacts - or so it seems to me.

I did not know that jpg had an indexed mode.  I knew I would be
getting some interesting feedback when I posted that answer.

I didn't mean to imply that jpg has an indexed mode. It just seems to me if
one exports a GIMP image in indexed mode to jpg the file comes out smaller.
Haven't run extensive tests on that, though.

GIMP actually transforms back to RGB before going to jpg (asking if that's
what you want first). So YMMV.

I have been doing this junk for so long that I developed an
automatic habit of anti-aliasing transparent gif images "by hand" as
per my earlier comments.  And yes, it is time to abandon that and
just use png images.  Yay!

:o)

Steve



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Re: [Gimp-user] Web development question?

[Burnie West]

On 02/16/2012 01:54 PM, Frank Gore wrote:

On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 4:48 PM, Xiella Harksell  wrote:

As a point of difference :)

I find myself tending to save the majority of my images (in terms of
developing the site - stripes, decorations, non-content stuff) as
PNGs.

You're not the only one, the vast majority of professional web
designers use PNGs as a flexible way of displaying images in browsers.
The last browser I know of that didn't support PNG files properly was
IE6... and can we count how many years old that is?

There is  a minor but sound reason for using png rather than jpg in many of
these cases - the fact that png is lossless. It does result in somewhat larger
files, but if the specific image wants to be compressed to an indexed-mode jpg
for file size reasons, a png background is I believe somewhat less likely to
create artifacts - or so it seems to me.

  -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Use GIMP for commercial / business purposes?

[Burnie West]

On 02/11/2012 01:00 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:

On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 12:55 PM, Dan . wrote:

To the GIMP User List,

I understand that I can sell GIMP for a fee if I want, but I am not clear
whether or not I am allowed to use GIMP for commercial / business purposes.

You are.
Yes, the license clearly allows that. And furthermore, should you find your 
business model successful, and you discover from your customer base that a 
particular feature not in GIMP would increase its prospects, you are perfectly 
at liberty to hire a coder to develop that feature.


However, if he or she wants/needs to modify GIMP to add/enable that feature, the 
license allows that as well, provided those modifications are turned over to the 
GIMP community for possible release to the rest of the GIMP world. Assistance in 
terms of code improvement is the "coin of the realm" in the FOSS movement, as I 
understand it.


Of course, not all modifications would "make the grade", but as long as the code 
modifications were made available to the community (and consequently to the wold 
at large) the license requirement would seem to be satisfied. And the GIMP 
community would love to have additional assistance.


 -- Burnie
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Re: [Gimp-user] 2.7

[Burnie West]

On 01/09/2012 02:55 PM, Dave Wilcox wrote:
I can see on the website where I can download version 2.6 but i dont see where 
I can d/l 2.7.


Can ya help me out?
Others have not really mentioned this, Dave, but stable releases always end with 
*even* first-decimal integers.

2.8 will have a link; 2.7 is the development path to 2.8
2.6 will most likely work fine for you until 2.8 comes out.
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Re: [Gimp-user] OT: Gimp name-picking (Was: Need help repairing image)

[Burnie West]

On 01/01/2012 07:42 PM, Frank Gore wrote:

I think I speak for 99% of the list subscribers.

or more :)

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Re: [Gimp-user] OT: Was: Gimp name-picking

[Burnie West]

On 12/29/2011 02:24 PM, Xiella Harksell wrote:

I didn't have time to read this whole thread, so pardon me if it's
already been
pointed out that the idea of changing the name of GIMP has come up more
than
once in the past.


Frankly, and meaning no offense to any party, I do think that this
discussion is a bit absurd.


  I am also new to the list and found this discussion ludicrous albeit
interesting.


I am a bit of a lurker, but over the last few change-the-name
discussions have been almost exasperated enough to make a post :).
Just wondering, is it possible to prevent the discussion arising
again? Hard link the archives of the various discussions that have
arisen over the years?  Make a highly visible FAQ?  Or is it something
the list will just field ad infinitum?

+1 to you, Xiella

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Re: [Gimp-user] Light Field Camera

[Burnie West]

On 11/13/2011 02:42 AM, Mikael Ståldal wrote:

On 2011-10-29 17:01, Johan Vromans wrote:
> Any ideas how this will impact foto-editing?

From GIMP's perspective, I think this can be seen as a new, more advanced, 
form av RAW images.


Current RAW images allows you to adjust certain aspectes after the exposure, 
such as white balance. This Light Field Camera adds another aspect to the list 
of adjustable aspectes: focus.


Currently GIMP has no direct support for any RAW images, you have to 
pre-process them with a plugin which generates a regular bitmap which is then 
fed into GIMP. Images from a Ligth Field Camera could be handled in the same way.
Yes, but the plug-in would have to discern and extract the bitmap from the 
proprietary stored format in a manner similar to what the software that presents 
the refocused image to the viewing screen does - as noted in earlier posts (or 
so it seems to me).


One possible advanced plugin feature might be to refocus in successively finer 
checkerboards, each checkerboard choosing as its "focus locus" the quadrant 
containing the crispest edges. Kind of a 3-D Warnock's algorithm.


Seems it could result in a "focused everywhere" image, if the imaged object is 
smooth enough.


 -- Burnie


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Re: [Gimp-user] Light Field Camera

[Burnie West]

On 10/29/2011 04:15 PM, Burnie West wrote:

On 10/29/2011 10:54 AM, Frank Gore wrote:

On Sat, Oct 29, 2011 at 1:47 PM, Johan Vromans  wrote:

But what would be required to process the 'raw' (multi-dimensional) data
from an LFE camera? Each pixel or group of pixels gets a Z-component
that makes the object that this group represents in focus in a
particular plane only.

It currently requires custom proprietary software from the
manufacturer, no other software can decode those images yet. As for
the mechanics of how it could be done and how to add support for it,
that would be best discussed on the dev mailing list. However, since
there are currently no publicly available output files from those
cameras, the point is moot.

--
Frank Gore
www.ProjectPontiac.com
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It appears (from the underlying thesis) that an array of individual images 
with different
focuses are captured. The thesis itself indicates 30 images located in a 
square array,
with the target image captured in each element. Since the images are 
distributed across
the entire photosensitive array, a fair amount of chromatic dispersion can be 
detected.


For any image, therefore, 30 times as many pixels (more or less, depending on 
the
subsequent manufacturing details) must be captured. The underlying software 
has an
apparently complex but straightforward sorting problem, allowing to choose 
whichever

pixel is at the best focus for the selected image point in the composite.

It appears at first glance that the images in the light field camera picture 
gallery have

at least four focal planes available 
(https://www.lytro.com/living-pictures/282).

From the image editing standpoint (if this is the case), it would not be 
sharply different
from the refocusing opportunity by providing four successive shots with 
different focal
length. Of course, the chromatic aberration correction would not be available 
this way,

nor would moving image capture be handled.

So the thirty images would necessarily have to be divided into the appropriate 
planes,

presumably using radial symmetry for the chromatic correction.

Seems to me the light field camera is a pretty good idea, and as it evolves 
over time I

suspect it will be quite interesting.

The thesis itself is available from the lytro.com website - 
lytro.com/renng-thesis.pdf


  -- Burnie
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An article in the December Atlantic magazine ("Deep Focus" by Rob Walker) 
suggests that the released Lytro cameras are more complex than the 
aforementioned thesis describes. According to Rob, Ren Ng's Lytro camera has 
"integrated hundreds of microlenses into a single device." Certainly 
interesting; hardly a simple direction for GIMP to pursue.


 -- Burnie

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Re: [Gimp-user] Light Field Camera

[Burnie West]

On 10/29/2011 10:54 AM, Frank Gore wrote:

On Sat, Oct 29, 2011 at 1:47 PM, Johan Vromans  wrote:

But what would be required to process the 'raw' (multi-dimensional) data
from an LFE camera? Each pixel or group of pixels gets a Z-component
that makes the object that this group represents in focus in a
particular plane only.

It currently requires custom proprietary software from the
manufacturer, no other software can decode those images yet. As for
the mechanics of how it could be done and how to add support for it,
that would be best discussed on the dev mailing list. However, since
there are currently no publicly available output files from those
cameras, the point is moot.

--
Frank Gore
www.ProjectPontiac.com
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It appears (from the underlying thesis) that an array of individual images with 
different
focuses are captured. The thesis itself indicates 30 images located in a square 
array,
with the target image captured in each element. Since the images are distributed 
across
the entire photosensitive array, a fair amount of chromatic dispersion can be 
detected.


For any image, therefore, 30 times as many pixels (more or less, depending on 
the
subsequent manufacturing details) must be captured. The underlying software has 
an
apparently complex but straightforward sorting problem, allowing to choose 
whichever
pixel is at the best focus for the selected image point in the composite.

It appears at first glance that the images in the light field camera picture 
gallery have

at least four focal planes available 
(https://www.lytro.com/living-pictures/282).

From the image editing standpoint (if this is the case), it would not be 
sharply different
from the refocusing opportunity by providing four successive shots with 
different focal
length. Of course, the chromatic aberration correction would not be available 
this way,

nor would moving image capture be handled.

So the thirty images would necessarily have to be divided into the appropriate 
planes,

presumably using radial symmetry for the chromatic correction.

Seems to me the light field camera is a pretty good idea, and as it evolves over 
time I

suspect it will be quite interesting.

The thesis itself is available from the lytro.com website - 
lytro.com/renng-thesis.pdf


  -- Burnie
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