ON THE HOW'S, WHY'S AND WHAT'S OF ALCOHOL IN GOAN SOCIETY Why is alcohol consumption at bars frowned upon even though it is permitted at occasions and parties? Why do only men visit Goan bars? How did the labelling of deviants and addicts -- as bebde -- come about?
A new book on the role of alcohol in Goan society seeks to answer this and explain a number of other question related to the role of alcohol in Goan society. In Goa, alcohol plays a significant role as a social lubricant and is considered to be essential for hospitality, says the book called *One For The Road: Role of Alcohol in Goan Society*, authored by associate professor of sociology at Fr Agnel's College (Pilar) Biula V Cruz e Pereira. Rituals and beliefs are associated with distillation. Alcohol, interestingly enough, is used in medicine, antiseptic, in deliveries and childcare, as an appetizer, an antiflatulent, for deworming, to treat colds and fevers, an as an analgesic. Alcohol goes into food as an ingredient. Feni and vingegar goes into meat preparations, as a preservative, in Goan sausages, fish preparations. Wine is used in cakes, while sur (toddy) goes into leavening. Alcohol goes into many Goan customs and traditions. This reflects in the spirit of the Devchar (benevolentn or other spirit). Feni offerings are made by the Seth and Gosai communities, Pereira says. In Goa, feni gets used to ward off evil eye, and to mark the xim (a boundary at the time of the marriage). Alcohol or sur offerings also play other roles in religion, both Catholic and Hindu. Feni is used at the crematorium at times, or for exorcism. Beyond religion, says Pereira, alcohol has a social function too. It gets used at rites of passage (raising the toast, engagement, traditions, saguade and vojem, bhikream-jevonn, ros and hollod, jevonn, barso, baptism, funerals among others). >From feasts to the Sao Joao monsoon celebration, to zatras, saibinn celebrations and the ladin (litany), carnival and holi, bonderam and sangodd, and other bigger feasts, alcohol has played a role in Goa. Goan Catholics, says the book, have assimiliated the use of alcohol in their daily life and celebrations. Goan Hindus, whose attitudes are similar to those in the rest of the country, do not condemn alcohol consumption by others. A growing number of Hindus, particularly the younger generation, however consume alcohol in individual settings or as part of socialisation. Alcohol is the oldest and "most abused intoxicant" known to man, says the book, which looks at the origins of alcoholic beverages, and attitudes towards it. Alcohol consumption patterns, and religious attitudes towards alcohol use, are also detailed. Pereira's study focussed on Verna and Benaulim in the Old Conquest areas of coastal Goa, and Shiroda and Bali from the New Conquest hinterland. Contrary to expectations that she would smoothly conduct work on her research problem, Pereira says she "had to face difficult questions, condemning stares and unpleasant gestures from menfolk especially... where social attitudes differ with regards to alcohol consumption." She looks at the history of alcohol in Goa -- pre-Portuguese, Portuguese and post-1961. It is clear that alcohol existed in Goa before the Portuguese arrived here, though the alcohol industry "flourished in Goa during the Portuguese rule". Photos show clay and glass containers from those times, which were used to store wine, as were glass jars and wooden containers (for toddy). Various implements used, and the process of collecting 'sur' (the input for coconut feni) is explained. Cashew feni, the traditional brew made from the fruit brought in by the Portuguese, has a completely different process. Feni production gets attention in a chapter on the 'social organisation of feni production'. Right from collection to distillation, each stage is described for both coconut (palm) feni and cashew feni. Toddy tappers have been sharply declining in Goa, Pereira notes. The fall over the recent years itself has been rather drastic. Cashew distillation is looked after by the kazkar. Today, both the render (coconut toddy tappers) and the kazkar face a number of difficulties, notes the book. 'Situational drinking' is another area needing understanding, while the social norms of, and attitudes to, alcohol consumption are also explained. "Public opinion plays an important role in labelling a person an alcoholic... In Goan society, a bebdo is a person addicted to alcohol of any kind, who drinks excessively till he loses motor control and cannot retain a regular job," Pereira notes. She discusses accepted norms on drinking to socialise, the acceptable age for drinking, and the timing of drinking. Modes for serving alcohol, group formation, and who serves the drinks is also focussed on. *One For The Road* also elaborates and explain the links between alcohol and religion. In recent times, the role of Goa Church towards alcohol has also changed. So have grousp like the Padmanabh Mutt, which have played an important role in reshaping attitudes. In concluding, Pereira looks at the changing trends of drinking in Goan society, issues facing the alcohol industry in Goa, and also the effects of alcoholism on society. This 312-page book with a number of photographs is priced at Rs 350 in Goa, and at Euro 14 (inclusive of airmail and packaging) internationally. It is available at Golden Heart Emporium at Rua Abade Faria in Margao (Ph 93 70 27 34 79) and other outlets. -- NOTE: Meet Goa,1556 at the book fair currently on at Kala Academy (darya sangam), Panjim, Goa at Stall No 67. The author can be contacted at bevigilant...@gmail.com or +91 99 21 44 81 10. See cover https://www.flickr.com/photos/fn-goa/16142382568/