Re: [h-cost] habit francaise
Hi, I have run trough all of my books, and i think that it is not used. So i have to stick to a naturally off white silk waistcoat. Most important thing is to find nice colours to embroider it with, and it should not be so difficult. Thanks for your oppinions Bjarne - Original Message - From: "otsisto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:59 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] habit francaise I remember seeing once upon a time a medium green jacket with a dark red waistcoat. It had something to do with christmas but I can't say for sure of the date of the print. De -Original Message- At 19:41 14/10/2005, you wrote: I have a question about colours for the habit francaise arround 1770ies. Must the waistcoat always be of lighter colour than the jacket? I was so fortunate to find a ribbed silk today in dusty rose colour. It is a Armani silk. Naturally i baught the whole rest wich was 6,30 meters. I thoaght it would be nice with a darker grey coloured waistcoat. Make grey embroidery on the dusty rose jacket and dusty rose embroidery on the grey waistcoat? I dont think i have seen other pictures with darker waistcoat, except for a black one wich went with black breeches and black jacket. Any ideas? I have not seen, that I remember, any fashion plates showing a darker waistcoat. Nor any complete suits with darker waistcoats. But we don't know for sure. Maybe someone did wear it like that because, like you, he had a superb waistcoat to show off. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
I will include myself _out_, as I was recently gifted with a considerable number of yards of a blue/blue foliate jacquard that apparently ran afoul of a forklift while still on the bolt... a big repeating tear, but very close to the selvage, so there is plenty to salvage! Betsy (It's good to have friends in the upholstery biz) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 10:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool? In a message dated 10/14/2005 10:26:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Fight! Fight! Me too! I was going to say: oh, Dawn, it's just not you! However, it is exactly me! I have such visions of a fabric scramble. lol Nothing I need or want, so this is totally disinterested, but sounds like a lottery to me! Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: KWCS report?
I'd love the contact information, too, please? Thank you, Elena/Gia -- Original message -- > Sounds like it was well worth the trip. Thank you for sharing. If I > may ask... would you also share the pleat work contact information... > I don't want to swamp the poor lady ; > but I would love to see what > she has found. > > Many thanks, > Mari / Bridgette > > > > > And finally, the pleatwork class was really great. She should write a book. > Someone on this list was asking about pleated smocks a few months ago -- > something about the way the sleeves were placed so there wasn't a shoulder > seam > but the torso part was pleated into the neck. Whoever that was, e-mail me, > and > I'll give you the contact info for the teacher of this class, because she had > documentation of what you were talking about. > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
Bjarne, I'd love this pattern as well. I'm leaning more and more towards the later periods in fashion (as opposed to the SCA periods) and actually want to start making the garments. I've already bought all the McCain patterns and have the materials for these. But I don't have a mantua pattern... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- > Hi Michaela > > I have the pattern cut for this mantua also if you are interrested. From the > small catalogue womens fashion from 1600 1750. I baught this many years ago > on Victoria & Albert, my very first visit to London. > Let me know if i can help you with this. > > Bjarne > > > - Original Message - > From: "michaela" > To: "Historical Costume" > Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 2:51 AM > Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua > > > >> The English mantua you refer to is in a book > >> called "18th Century Women's Costume at Blaise > >> Castle House" by Helen Burnett and Cleo Witt. > >> Printed by Bristol City Museum. However, the > >> mantua is dated c.1738-41. It still has its matching petticoat. > > > > I just found my livejournal with my list of extant early mantua (as > > opposed > > to the very stylised later mantua) and found the book I had seen it in: > > http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/334570.html > > Title: Women's costumes 1600-1750, [by] Zillah Halls. > > Published: London, H.M.S.O., 1969. > > Other Author(s): Halls, Zillah. > > I didn't manage to snaffle the date of the mantua but I can read the date > > of > > the stomacher as being 1720-30. The petticoat looks to be a quilted tube > > basically. > > The text I can make out says: > > "... open robe worn over a separate corset and separate skirt was > > established. The elaborately-arranged skirt, pinned or buttoned back, is > > occasionally though not frequently found throughout the first half of the > > 18th century; there are four examples in the London Museum." > > (view of the back of the mantua and petticoat) > > "13 stomacher 1720-30, (no.[??]) > > The stomacher was a separate triangular piece, usually embroidered, which > > filled the space in the front of the bodice." > > (view of the front of the Mantua, pettcoat and stomacher. > > > > I adore this example. It's so very simple but effective. The stomacher has > > a > > fine pattern embroidered with horizontal lines. > > > > > > > > Unfortunately the image on the Sally Queen and Associates page has gone, I > > think it is in the 2000 calendar. I'm going to email to ask if this is so. > > I > > seem to recall it being in the colletcion of the Royal Ontaria Museum, but > > there is no info on their site. > > > > > > regards, > > michaela de bruce > > http://costumes.glittersweet.com > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/129 - Release Date: > > 11/10/2005 > > > > ___ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] habit francaise
This, of course, sent me off looking through lots of portraits on the web, where I have seen plenty of *matching* waistcoats, but unfortunately no dark waistcoats with lighter coats. ( Do you know how many portraits were painted at just the right angle to not let you see what is on under their coats and jabots? Nearly every blasted one ) However, I did find this portrait - http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?search=ss&sText=bach&LinkID=mp05038&rNo=0&role=sit which seems to have a waiscoat of a contrasting colour. So, what you wish to do, Bjarne, while being uncommon ( as far as we can tell ), doesn't seem to be completely unlikely. My 2c worth. Joannah. --- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:30:11 +0200 To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [h-cost] habit francaise Hi, I have run trough all of my books, and i think that it is not used. So i have to stick to a naturally off white silk waistcoat. Most important thing is to find nice colours to embroider it with, and it should not be so difficult. Thanks for your oppinions Bjarne - Original Message - From: "otsisto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:59 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] habit francaise >I remember seeing once upon a time a medium green jacket with a dark red > waistcoat. It had something to do with christmas but I can't say for sure > of > the date of the print. > > De > -Original Message- > At 19:41 14/10/2005, you wrote: > >>I have a question about colours for the habit francaise arround 1770ies. >>Must the waistcoat always be of lighter colour than the jacket? >>I was so fortunate to find a ribbed silk today in dusty rose colour. It is > a >>Armani silk. Naturally i baught the whole rest wich was 6,30 meters. I >>thoaght it would be nice with a darker grey coloured waistcoat. Make grey >>embroidery on the dusty rose jacket and dusty rose embroidery on the grey >>waistcoat? I dont think i have seen other pictures with darker waistcoat, >>except for a black one wich went with black breeches and black jacket. >>Any ideas? > > > I have not seen, that I remember, any fashion plates showing a darker > waistcoat. Nor any complete suits with darker waistcoats. But we > don't know for sure. Maybe someone did wear it like that because, > like you, he had a superb waistcoat to show off. > > Suzi > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
Hosen Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] habit francaise
At 18:46 15/10/2005, you wrote: This, of course, sent me off looking through lots of portraits on the web, where I have seen plenty of *matching* waistcoats, but unfortunately no dark waistcoats with lighter coats. ( Do you know how many portraits were painted at just the right angle to not let you see what is on under their coats and jabots? Nearly every blasted one ) However, I did find this portrait - http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?search=ss&sText=bach&LinkID=mp05038&rNo=0&role=sit which seems to have a waiscoat of a contrasting colour. I may be able to go and have a quick look at this on Tuesday, Bjarne, if you can wait that long. I have a suspicion that what shows is the lining of the coat, but if they have the portrait on display I will be able to get a better idea. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
Hosen Marc With 14 yards? You must have really long legs! Or are you casting an entire forest full of "Robin Hood: Men in Hosen"? :-) -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Venice dress
Ah. I'm 5'7 3/4", short waist, long legs. I have 5 yds (maybe a little over)of a cotton blend yellow brocade that seems to say "Italian". I haven't made a mock up yet and was wondering whether to make something at my size or give it to a friend who is petite and thin or save it in hopes of loosing the inches. Thank you. De -Original Message- Speaking to me? :-) Let's see. That width is one and a half times the average width for fabric, so add half of the total length to the 5 yards you have and you get the equivalent of 7 and a half yards of fabric. I'd say tentatively, yes, that would be sufficient, BUT it depends on how tall you are, and if the fabric is figured or not. If you have to match a pattern you may be out of luck. You'll need the length of waist point to neckline in length for bodice (maybe 50cm/20" - shoulder straps can be cut from scraps), so you may be able, with careful placement, to use up about 125cm/ very roughly 50" or 1.5 yards for both bodice and sleeves across the full width of the fabric, since the sleeves are of a fairly fabric efficient style. That would leave you 3.5 yards in length for the skirt, which would be enough if you are short and don't require a train - the skirt would have to be three panels of fabric no longer than 105cm or just over a yard/41" long. That would give you a hem circumference of 3 x 60" = 180" or 5 yards - enough for a full-looking skirt, in my opinion. You could make the skirt fuller at the back and less so at the sides/front by using one panel (selvedge to selvedge) between side back openings (leave selvedges open at top) and one on each side/front. This is of course for a front split skirt as seen in the pic. personally I don't like a centre front seam for closed skirts, but if you do, you could use the fabric the same way as for split-skirt. I'm going from memory here, but I'm fairly certain I used about 5m of the same width fabric for my black velvet dress and sleeves, and I was about a size 20/22 Australian at the time, which I think equates to a 24 US sizing. I am 5' 3". :-) Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] habit francaise
Dear Joannah and Suzi, Thanks for your inputs, i also found one in Ribeiro's Fashion in England and Fracem a spanish country park scene, a gentleman is wearing a red suit with green waistcoat. But i have ben interrested in court suit wearm and i think it is a must with off white waistcoat. Could have ben pretty with a medium grey with my dusty rose, but off white will also be nice. I intent to embroider myself a new court suit, and i draft embroidery patterns right now, so fun. I think i will combine it so that i make the cuffs off white also. The match depends on the colours i use for the embroidery. I was so fortunate to find a Armani ribbed silk in dusty red lilacs. As it was the last lot, 6,30 meter, i got it for 230,00 kr, a meter. They told me the original price is 1000,00 kr a meter. Perhaps i make a wreath of rosebuds in dusty rose on the waistcoat and an old rose wreath of rosebuds on the jacket. More red than the fabric, Please dont make any fuss about the portrait you found, it is the whole, that lighter waistcoats was used that matters to me. Thanks for your replyes!!!:-) Bjarne - Original Message - From: "Suzi Clarke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] habit francaise At 18:46 15/10/2005, you wrote: This, of course, sent me off looking through lots of portraits on the web, where I have seen plenty of *matching* waistcoats, but unfortunately no dark waistcoats with lighter coats. ( Do you know how many portraits were painted at just the right angle to not let you see what is on under their coats and jabots? Nearly every blasted one ) However, I did find this portrait - http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?search=ss&sText=bach&LinkID=mp05038&rNo=0&role=sit which seems to have a waiscoat of a contrasting colour. I may be able to go and have a quick look at this on Tuesday, Bjarne, if you can wait that long. I have a suspicion that what shows is the lining of the coat, but if they have the portrait on display I will be able to get a better idea. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Venice dress
otsisto wrote: Belle, http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/LicinioWWBook.jpg Can a dress like this be made with only 5 yds/60"wide in a size 24/26? Yes, certainly. I made a very similar one out of somewhat less fabric and I wear about a 20-22. -- Adele de Maisieres - Habeo metrum - musicamque, hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? -Georgeus Gershwinus - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
- Original Message - > -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 10:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool? In a message dated 10/14/2005 10:26:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Fight! Fight! Me too! I was going to say: oh, Dawn, it's just not you! However, it is exactly me! I have such visions of a fabric scramble. lol Mmmmgreen and wool! That's PERFECT for me!!! Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
A dress or two, I'd love to have a wool dress in green, and I think my granddaughters would love it too. LOL it sounds like it would look beautiful and feel wonderful. Kitty -Original Message- From: Dawn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 14:18:47 -0500 Subject: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool? I've got 14 yards of plain medium-dark green (somewhere between emerald and forest) wool. It's lovely and soft and about t-shirt weight. I thought I might make cloaks out of it, but it seems a little light. What would you do? Any time, any place... Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 658
jen funk segrest wrote: Hello all, I would like to ask your help in finding a digital camera brand that gives good color representation when photographing fabrics. I have had 2 Canon digital cameras now and neither of them is good at capturing fabric colors. Since I have to put pictures on my website that represent the true fabric colors, I really want to take pictures and have them be correct without lots of altering (like I have to do now). If you have any opinions or experience, please share it! I'm a graphic designer and avid photobug but I find myself correcting almost every shot taken, in some way. Digitals, and any camera really, are very bad in museum settings where lighting is usually low or directed the wrong way than what you need it. No camera is perfect at capturing colors, lighting is a big reason, you will need to probably acquire a program like photoshop or photoshop elements to color correct the photos when you return. I suggest you buy a pantone book, or simliar color chip book, and use it as a reference and note it in person. When you get home you can use that color number reference to refer to to color correct your shots, but know that ALL Monitors are calibrated differently and it will appear slightly different computer to computer. griz this is a fastinating thread, since photography and computer graphics are a subject I enjoy very much. thank you for your insight. I'm saving the whole thread. thanks, Kitty ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
have you sold it yet, and how much is the bidding up to? LOL Dawn wrote: Althea Turner wrote: um, ... send it to me? *grin* LOL! Well, I am willing to part with it for what I paid for it, which is pretty cheap, if anyone is interested. I've been looking at it for a year now and just can't get inspired. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
Kitty Felton wrote: have you sold it yet, and how much is the bidding up to? LOL I believe I have found a home for it, yes. :) At least it will go to someone who will love it, and I can move on to something more inspiring for me. Although I was tempted by the livery idea Dawn Dawn wrote: Althea Turner wrote: um, ... send it to me? *grin* LOL! Well, I am willing to part with it for what I paid for it, which is pretty cheap, if anyone is interested. I've been looking at it for a year now and just can't get inspired. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what would you do with 14 yards of wool?
Rats, I've been longing for a nice wool dress for church this winter. I wear psudo period stuff to church, and even around the house sometimes. Mostly prairie. LOL thanks anyway. Kitty Dawn wrote: Kitty Felton wrote: have you sold it yet, and how much is the bidding up to? LOL I believe I have found a home for it, yes. :) At least it will go to someone who will love it, and I can move on to something more inspiring for me. Although I was tempted by the livery idea Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
