Re: [h-cost] need to change email address please

2006-05-01 Thread Elizabeth Young
One can also follow the link at the bottom of each h-cost message and 
request your password. The password reminder (the on-demand one as well 
as the auto reminder) will only come to your h-cost subscribing address(es)


another elizabeth (young)

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
Follow the link at the bottom of every email you get from this list to 
make those sort of changes. As yesterday was the first of the month you 
will have recieved an email yesterday with the subject 'mail.indra.com 
mailing list memberships reminder' you'll need the password in that 
email to log in and make changes.

Elizabeth
- Original Message - From: "Debra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] need to change email address please




My current email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to change 
mailings to

my new address: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks!
I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
Debra



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RE: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery - sold

2006-05-01 Thread Anne Moeller
OK, Thanks anyway.


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.1/327 - Release Date: 4/28/2006
 


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[h-cost] I need 395 sent in digest form, it attached each email separately

2006-05-01 Thread Debra


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 9:38 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 395


Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."

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Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves

2006-05-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Mon, 1 May 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  > I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm
>  > trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of
>  > Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.
> 
> http://www.folkstory.com/images/june.jpg
>  From the Tres Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry
> 
> Sorry, I was writing in haste in response to the Unicorn Tapestry
> question.  Short sleeves do not always equal fantasy.  Caution is
> advised when there are short sleeves edged with some sort of trim,
> though.  (Have I got it right this time, Robin?)  And you generally
> see chemise sleeves rather than bare arms underneath.

There was indeed a short-sleeved underdress style in the 15th c. that you
see occasionally worn over a chemise with no overlayer. The women doing
fieldwork in the TRH that Melanie points out are wearing something similar
to this, but I have some hesitation about this particular picture because
of the class level depicted in this dress. There are a reasonable number
of images of fieldworkers, and this is the only one I've seen in which
they are wearing fitted short-sleeved dresses. I suspect that they have
been idealized for the purposes of creating an idyllic peasant scene for
the Duke's book. Actual peasants seem more commonly to be dressed as shown
elsewhere in that manuscript -- with looser gowns, and long sleeves.

Still, you can probably make a short-sleeved fitted dress like this
without too much problem, as there is support for it for middle- or
upper-class women. However, I have never seen a woman in a medieval
European image with bare arms, unless she is undressed.

Use linen and lightweight wools, and you won't be as hot as you'd think.
But of course it does get much hotter in many parts of the States, and
when you start dealing with those 80- and 90-degree temperatures, you're
going to have to make a non-period compromise to suit a non-period weather
situation.

(If the Middle Ages had occurred in Kansas, the clothing would have looked
different.)

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] need to change email address please

2006-05-01 Thread Elizabeth Walpole
Follow the link at the bottom of every email you get from this list to make 
those sort of changes. As yesterday was the first of the month you will have 
recieved an email yesterday with the subject 'mail.indra.com mailing list 
memberships reminder' you'll need the password in that email to log in and 
make changes.

Elizabeth
- Original Message - 
From: "Debra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] need to change email address please




My current email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to change mailings to
my new address: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks!
I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
Debra

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[h-cost] need to change email address please

2006-05-01 Thread Debra

My current email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need to change mailings to
my new address: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks!
I really enjoy the exchange of ideas on this site.
Debra

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Re: [h-cost] Short sleeves

2006-05-01 Thread Melanie Schuessler

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm
> trying to remember if there were some images in some of the Book of
> Hours of women with mid length sleeves on women.

http://www.folkstory.com/images/june.jpg
From the Tres Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry

Sorry, I was writing in haste in response to the Unicorn Tapestry 
question.  Short sleeves do not always equal fantasy.  Caution is 
advised when there are short sleeves edged with some sort of trim, 
though.  (Have I got it right this time, Robin?)  And you generally see 
chemise sleeves rather than bare arms underneath.


Melanie, who will now be good and return to working on her French hoods 
paper


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Re: [h-cost] I'm Back (Long)

2006-05-01 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Penny what a wonderful time you have had!  I look forward to viewing all the
info you have generated for us.

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: "Penny" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "h-costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] I'm Back (Long)


I am back from Florida!  Wow what a trip!  I was only supposed to be there
for two weeks.  The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota
invited me to photograph their collections for a week.  So I stayed an extra
week and took about 1,500 photgraphs.  Bradenton/Sarasota is a mecca for
thrift and outlet stores.  I had to buy a second suitcase and ship back home
five boxes of things we purchased.  I have two sisters who are addicted to
shopping.

When I returned to Virginia, I was hired to teach Contempary Fashion History
(1850-1990) for the summer semester at Virginia Commonwealth University. One
of my dream jobs!  I might be hired to teach it in the fall too.  They have
opened up this course to the entire School of the Arts.

Back to Florida...

John Ringling was one of the five Ringling Brothers of the circus fame.
John and Mable also were big art collectors.  On my first day, we went
through the Circus Museum and Cá d'Zan, the 47 room mansion of John & Mable
Ringling, to decide what we wanted to photograph.  The house was completed
in 1925 and was the Ringlings' winter home.

The first shoot was in the circus costume gallery.  Most of the costumes
were from the 1950s.  Here is a link to one of the photos of the costumes.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/temp/Girl045A.jpg  Later that day, we
did a photoshoot of the exterior of the Cá d'Zan. Here is a front view of
the mansion:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/2housefront150.jpg .   You
can't see the mansion's tower  because the palm trees block the view.

Here is one of the many images of a Venice Carnivale that is painted on the
Gameroom's ceiling of the Cá d'Zan.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/mansion4_035w.htm
 The artist was Willy Pogany, a famous children's book illustrator, costume
designer for opera and theater, and was employed by Florence Ziegfeld.  This
massive collection was painted in the mid-1920s on canvas in New York City.
Mr. Pogany installed the paintings in 1925-26 on the ceiling of the
Gameroom.  I have not counted but there are about 30 very large paintings
and several smaller ones of people in this room. I took 91 photos of the
Carnivale ceiling. I laid flat on the floor to take the Carnivale photos.
Next I photgraphed the square columns in the GameRoom.  Three sides of each
column were painted masks for the Carnivale.  I guess, there was about 16-20
columns. The Gameroom took up a large majority of the third floor.

Another ceiling was painted by Mr. Pogany, the Ballroom.   The ceiling is
called Dancers of the Nations.  There are 22 panels of international dancers
set in octagon gilded coffers.  In each corner of the room was a painting of
a couple doing American dances.  I have the Ballroom webpages about 50%
complete.  I have large detailed photos of each set of dancers.

You can see video of the Cá d'Zan on the Ringling website:
http://www.ringling.org/tours/ca_dzan/court.htm .  When you look at the
Ballroom, point your cursor towards the ceiling and you will see the Dancers
of the Nations.   The official website for the museum is
http://www.ringling.org/index.asp

A big thrill of the week, was doing a photoshoot of Mr. Ringling's wardrobe.
They have an extensive collection of his shoes, canes, hats, suits, and
ties.  The majority of his wardobe was purchased on Fifth Ave. in NYC.  I
spent two days photographing his wardrobe.

The staff at the museum was wonderful!  I didn't get to visit their art
museum.  I ran out of time.  But I was told that the art museum has a
collection of 75 hand fans.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread E House
- Original Message - 
From: "Robin Netherton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, winemaking, and
other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
significance. Look carefully, though, as often tapestries do tell tales of
historical or mythological heroes and heroines, and it can be easy to
confuse them.


Also, be extremely cautious of the decoration you see on garments in 
tapestries--At best, they tend to be on wrong scale for that garment; most 
commonly, they're completely wrong for the situation/social strata of the 
person depicted (for example, 4" deep goldwork embroidery on the edges of 
the garment of a hunter, or extremely fancy embroidery on the hem of the 
kilted up skirt of a peasant trampling grapes).  The overall style of the 
garment is often spot on, but the decoration on the garment is almost always 
"what looks good on a tapestry" rather than "how they would have actually 
decorated that garment."


-E House 


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Re: [h-cost] Selling Stuff

2006-05-01 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Susan Data-Samtak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


Kathy-

The site says Temporarily Unavailable when I try to view it.


I suspect that that PDF may be big enough to trip up the Geocities
bandwidth restriction.  I think I got 4 pages the first time I tried!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Epaulettes

2006-05-01 Thread Alexandria Doyle

Another simple one is to get wide gross grain ribbon, I like two inches or
wider, use about a half a yard per row, per armhole (for an adult, a child's
might not need as much) and usually two rows per.  You'll be making loops
about an inch and a half to two inches long(3 to 4 inchs total per loop plus
seam allowances), start at the front and place the second loop right next to
the first and work to the back where you want to stop it.  For the second
row I stagger it over the first, starting in the center of the first loop,
adjusting the length of the loop to what looks good, sometimes the same as
the first or shorter.  Usually I don't cut the ribbon until I know how many
loops and how long each piece is needed.  Pin in place again and sew down.
Tuck the raw edges inside and finish as required.

This can be varied with matching ribbon or constrasting, or even two
different colors in the ribbon.  Because you are dealing with prefinished
ribbon you don't have lots of edges to finish and the gross grain ribbon has
lots of body so it will have the curl long after most fabrics have flattened
out.

alex

On 5/1/06, Jayne Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hi! Joan

Thanks for your message!  The problem is that the bodice pattern is a
hybrid of a Simplicity pattern and the 1569 bodice pattern out of JH's book
enlarged to sort of the correct size (my daughter still has a bit of
'toddler tum'!), which I made without too many problems.  I drafted the
epaulette base out of JH, which was too short, so I lengthened it, so in
theory it would go around the back of the armhole, which I think is
happening in the diagram on page 67.  The problem is that I am trying to
make the JH pattern fit the Simplicity armholes.  I thought rather than make
'the square peg fit the round hole',  I would try some other Elizabethan
shoulder decoration, and make it original, rather than copying a painting,
but at the same time, I don't want it to have the Simplicity Halloween
look!  I will have a go at the crescent -shaped shoulder decoration, and see
how it looks.

All The Best
Jayne


-
Win tickets to the 2006 FIFA World Cup Germany with Yahoo! Messenger.
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[h-cost] Short sleeves

2006-05-01 Thread roscelinlimoges
I know this is brought up every year when it becomes warmer.   I'm trying to 
remember if there were some images in some of the Book of Hours of women with 
mid length sleeves on women.

Roscelin
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[h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn

2006-05-01 Thread mischele1
Thanks  Melanie and Robin,

Just as I thought.  Guess I will be doing a bit of research.  It is sooo very 
hard for me to decide on just one time period.

Lyonet
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[h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Epaulettes

2006-05-01 Thread Jayne Thomas
Hi! Joan
   
  Thanks for your message!  The problem is that the bodice pattern is a hybrid 
of a Simplicity pattern and the 1569 bodice pattern out of JH's book enlarged 
to sort of the correct size (my daughter still has a bit of 'toddler tum'!), 
which I made without too many problems.  I drafted the epaulette base out of 
JH, which was too short, so I lengthened it, so in theory it would go around 
the back of the armhole, which I think is happening in the diagram on page 67.  
The problem is that I am trying to make the JH pattern fit the Simplicity 
armholes.  I thought rather than make 'the square peg fit the round hole',  I 
would try some other Elizabethan shoulder decoration, and make it original, 
rather than copying a painting, but at the same time, I don't want it to have 
the Simplicity Halloween look!  I will have a go at the crescent -shaped 
shoulder decoration, and see how it looks.
   
  All The Best 
  Jayne


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[h-cost] I'm Back (Long)

2006-05-01 Thread Penny
I am back from Florida!  Wow what a trip!  I was only supposed to be there for 
two weeks.  The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota invited me to 
photograph their collections for a week.  So I stayed an extra week and took 
about 1,500 photgraphs.  Bradenton/Sarasota is a mecca for thrift and outlet 
stores.  I had to buy a second suitcase and ship back home five boxes of things 
we purchased.  I have two sisters who are addicted to shopping. 

When I returned to Virginia, I was hired to teach Contempary Fashion History 
(1850-1990) for the summer semester at Virginia Commonwealth University. One of 
my dream jobs!  I might be hired to teach it in the fall too.  They have opened 
up this course to the entire School of the Arts.

Back to Florida...

John Ringling was one of the five Ringling Brothers of the circus fame.  John 
and Mable also were big art collectors.  On my first day, we went through the 
Circus Museum and Cá d'Zan, the 47 room mansion of John & Mable Ringling, to 
decide what we wanted to photograph.  The house was completed in 1925 and was 
the Ringlings' winter home.  

The first shoot was in the circus costume gallery.  Most of the costumes were 
from the 1950s.  Here is a link to one of the photos of the costumes.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Library/temp/Girl045A.jpg  Later that day, we did 
a photoshoot of the exterior of the Cá d'Zan. Here is a front view of the 
mansion: http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/2housefront150.jpg .   
You can't see the mansion's tower  because the palm trees block the view.

Here is one of the many images of a Venice Carnivale that is painted on the 
Gameroom's ceiling of the Cá d'Zan.  
http://www.costumegallery.com/Ringling/Mansion/Gameroom/Venice/mansion4_035w.htm
 The artist was Willy Pogany, a famous children's book illustrator, costume 
designer for opera and theater, and was employed by Florence Ziegfeld.  This 
massive collection was painted in the mid-1920s on canvas in New York City.  
Mr. Pogany installed the paintings in 1925-26 on the ceiling of the Gameroom.  
I have not counted but there are about 30 very large paintings and several 
smaller ones of people in this room. I took 91 photos of the Carnivale ceiling. 
I laid flat on the floor to take the Carnivale photos.  Next I photgraphed the 
square columns in the GameRoom.  Three sides of each column were painted masks 
for the Carnivale.  I guess, there was about 16-20 columns. The Gameroom took 
up a large majority of the third floor.

Another ceiling was painted by Mr. Pogany, the Ballroom.   The ceiling is 
called Dancers of the Nations.  There are 22 panels of international dancers 
set in octagon gilded coffers.  In each corner of the room was a painting of a 
couple doing American dances.  I have the Ballroom webpages about 50% complete. 
 I have large detailed photos of each set of dancers.

You can see video of the Cá d'Zan on the Ringling website: 
http://www.ringling.org/tours/ca_dzan/court.htm .  When you look at the 
Ballroom, point your cursor towards the ceiling and you will see the Dancers of 
the Nations.   The official website for the museum is 
http://www.ringling.org/index.asp

A big thrill of the week, was doing a photoshoot of Mr. Ringling's wardrobe.  
They have an extensive collection of his shoes, canes, hats, suits, and ties.  
The majority of his wardobe was purchased on Fifth Ave. in NYC.  I spent two 
days photographing his wardrobe. 

The staff at the museum was wonderful!  I didn't get to visit their art museum. 
 I ran out of time.  But I was told that the art museum has a collection of 75 
hand fans.
 
Penny Ladnier, 
Owner
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread purplkat
I remember seeing one on wine making - I especially liked one of the dresses. 
However all I can remember is that the dress was a long sleeved under dress 
with a short sleeve dress and (IIRC) a sleveless over dress.
Kinda like each over layer had shorter and shorter sleeves.

Hope this isn't too vague.

Katheryne

- Original Message -
From: Robin Netherton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
> tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, 
> winemaking, and other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without 
> allegorical
> significance.  
> --Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Selling Stuff

2006-05-01 Thread Susan Data-Samtak

Kathy-

The site says Temporarily Unavailable when I try to view it.

Boo, Hoo!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On May 1, 2006, at 12:07 PM, Kathy Page wrote:

I have decided to sell off bits of my stash I won't be using. I have 
packed it all onto a .pdf for anyone who is interested:

http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/sale_inventory.pdf
Mostly heirloom sewing stuff, some trims. I'll put it up on Ebay if 
there are no bites here.


Email me off list before Wednesday the 3rd if you are really keen. 
Otherwise I'll be back after the 7th.


Kathy


Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131





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Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Mon, 1 May 2006, mischele1 wrote:

> This dress is caught in my mind.
> Is it allogorical (sp)
> http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm

The short answer: In all six of the tapestries, the Lady's dress carries
many elements associated with allegorical and fantasy figures. The skirt
slit is the obvious indicator on this one; on others, it's the heavy
jeweled hem or the headdress. But also the overall level of decoration.

The maid's dress is far closer to real clothing of noblewomen, but
occasional has some oddnesses (mostly in headdress).

The long answer was the substance of a presentation Verna Rutz and I gave
on this topic at the International Medieval Congress quite some years ago.

Even if my research hadn't shown me the linkages between the lady's dress
and other allegorical/fantasy images, I would have found it out just from
doing the reproductions (I made a version of the Lady and one of the Maid,
mostly from this very tapestry). Things like layers being in a different
order on the sleeves/neckline/hem... easy enough to do in a picture, but
no way to do it in real life unless you fake something. 

If you like this style, I encourage you to look at other secular
tapestries from the period. There are a number on hunting, winemaking, and
other courtly pursuits that are full of nobles without allegorical
significance. Look carefully, though, as often tapestries do tell tales of
historical or mythological heroes and heroines, and it can be easy to
confuse them.

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread Melanie Schuessler

mischele1 wrote:

This dress is caught in my mind.
Is it allogorical (sp)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm


Cool dress, but yes, it is allegorical.  Short sleeves are generally a 
giveaway, as is a slit skirt.  Now the lady to the left is more in line 
with "real" fashion.  She has her overgown pinned up to the back of her 
waist to show off the lining and her red undergown.


Melanie Schuessler

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[h-cost] Selling Stuff

2006-05-01 Thread Kathy Page
I have decided to sell off bits of my stash I won't be using. I have packed it 
all onto a .pdf for anyone who is interested:
http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/sale_inventory.pdf
Mostly heirloom sewing stuff, some trims. I'll put it up on Ebay if there are 
no bites here.

Email me off list before Wednesday the 3rd if you are really keen. Otherwise 
I'll be back after the 7th.

Kathy 


Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131




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Re: [h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 15:23 01/05/2006, you wrote:

This dress is caught in my mind.
Is it allogorical (sp)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm
I am toying with the idea of making it for SCA use.
Thanks,
Lyonet


Can't help, but what a wonderful resource. I have been to the museum, 
but a very long time ago, so it's great to see such detail. Thanks for posting.


Suzi


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[h-cost] The Lady and the Unicorn (smell)

2006-05-01 Thread mischele1
This dress is caught in my mind.
Is it allogorical (sp)
http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/pages/page_id18374_u1l2.htm
I am toying with the idea of making it for SCA use.
Thanks,
Lyonet
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Re: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery - sold

2006-05-01 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 12:10 01/05/2006, you wrote:

I'm interested. What are you asking for it? I live in PA.



Me, me
Anne

I have for disposal a book called "Byzantine Tradition in Church 
Embroidery" by Pauline Johnstone if anyone is interested?



Sorry, the book has now found a home. It went to the first e-mail I got.

Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery

2006-05-01 Thread Becky

I'm interested. What are you asking for it? I live in PA.
- Original Message - 
From: "Anne Moeller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Historical Costume'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book wish list: Secular/Church embroidery



Me, me
Anne

I have for disposal a book called "Byzantine Tradition in Church 
Embroidery" by Pauline Johnstone if anyone is interested?



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RE: [h-cost] The Libertine

2006-05-01 Thread Katie Lewis
Bjarne wrote:

> Hi,
> I nust noticed a small advert about a moovie comming to Denmark called "The
> Libertine" Have any here seen it?
> What period is it?

I saw it and it was worth seeing once.  It isn't my period, but the costuming 
looked pretty good to me.  I would have to see the costumes in better light, 
the person who did the lighting was of the "The past must be DARK" school of 
thought and in general there was a too liberal use of brown and mud.  

A warning-the last 15-20 minutes is not for the weak of stomach.  There are 
lots of very tight close-ups of the the Earl of Rochester's face as he is dying 
from the effects of tertiary syphillis and mercury treatments.  I had to look 
away a couple of times and I'm not easisly grossed out.

-Katherine


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