Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]


-- "david webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
As a proud Canadian, "standing on guard for thee", trusty ally to Britain
and the U.S. in peace and war, etc. etc. yadda, yadda,  I winced a bit at
the reference to the "Canadian outfit " (which makes it sound as if the
local cowboys, hunting lodge or wedding videotapers had a go at it);-).
No offense meant to our Neighbors Ta Da Nort', eh! I just couldn't remember the 
correct name as I was typing. And since I come from Chicago, calling stuff an 
'outfit' just seems to come naturally. 8-)


The National Research Council Canada which particpated in this exercise has
been around for a long time and is fairly reputable scientific organization.
They have cooperated with NASA and the Canadarm, if I recall correctly.
Granted, they may know richard-all about costume quirks of fecund women
during Leonardo's period, but it was one of the French collaborators that
made that claim.
 
I have no doubt that the tech is spot on and that they have found what they say 
they have found. However, since I have a more than passing interest in historic 
costume and am reasonably familiar with Renaissance clothing yet have never 
encountered something that was specifically indicative of about-to and 
just-given birth, I thought I'd toss that out to the list whose collective 
wisdom on matters of historic costume is always impressive. It just smells like 
a Costume Myth to me.but I could be wrong
 
Karen
Seamstrix






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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Penny

Sheridan,

It is wonderful the Canadians have this technology. Big kudos!

It makes me wonderful what is under the vanish, dirt, and such so many other 
paintings.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread david webb
As a proud Canadian, "standing on guard for thee", trusty ally to Britain
and the U.S. in peace and war, etc. etc. yadda, yadda,  I winced a bit at
the reference to the "Canadian outfit " (which makes it sound as if the
local cowboys, hunting lodge or wedding videotapers had a go at it);-).

http://iit-iti.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/projects-projets/monalisa-lajoconde_e.html

The National Research Council Canada which particpated in this exercise has
been around for a long time and is fairly reputable scientific organization.
They have cooperated with NASA and the Canadarm, if I recall correctly.
Granted, they may know richard-all about costume quirks of fecund women
during Leonardo's period, but it was one of the French collaborators that
made that claim.

A brief blurb:
NRC-IIT is dedicated to R&D in software and systems technologies. The
Institute is a key player in R&D collaborations and partnerships in
information and telecommunications technologies with business, universities
and government agencies, in Canada and around the world.

NRC-IIT conducts scientific research, develops technology, creates knowledge
and supports innovation with the aim of having a beneficial and profound
impact on Canadian society. NRC-IIT blends the long-term vision inherent in
leading-edge science with a capacity to adapt to emerging S&T issues and
priorities.

The maple leaf forever.. (sung offkey and forgetting half the words)

Sheridan Alder




- Original Message - 
From: "Dawn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa


> Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:
>
> > Don't know of this, but if true, could be for privacy/modesty during
> > nursing. Just a thought.
> >
> >
>
> If they're describing it as a " gauzy, nearly transparent layer over her
> dress" then I doubt it was worn for modesty.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Penny
I think the main problem is that we are so used to seeing paintings that 
have been air-brushed in media.  There are plenty of painting, textiles, 
costumes, that have been in private and institutional collections that have 
lost so much in detail lost to grime or aging process.  I recall being so 
disappointed with seeing a very popular painting in a museum. It was so 
cracked that it looked nothing like what we know it as.  Someone had to tell 
me what it was and I sat for 30 minutes looking at it.


The controversy among our field of interest, historic costume is to restore 
or not.  And if chosen to restore, is the funding and expertise available. 
A very big dealer told me recently concerning restoration... that either 
costume dies a quick death if the restoration fails. If you have succeeded 
and saved its life, the costume will shine its glory for several more 
generations to learn from.


I have recently been dabbling in restoration.  I talked with several people 
as how to go about it.  I can't tell you how rewarding it is to bring 
something back to life!  I am working with items that I call the ICU of 
costumes. One of my long term goals is to learn beading and work on some of 
the 1920s dresses or what were once dresses. I want to piece  to them 
together for the beading patterns and document them.   I am doing this at my 
own expensive.  Universities don't budget for these things or think that the 
beading patterns of an era or important except if they belonged to a famous 
person.  But I know the beauty of the designs are there.  And  I am learning 
a new skill


One of my restoration projects is a 19th Century bonnet of thin netting and 
pineapple straw.  The straw lace has held up wonderfully but the netting is 
gone on one half of the bonnet. I have looked and looked at this bonnet and 
I think I can really save it.  When I took it out of the box, it was all 
meshed together.  It took a while to get it untangled.  But it will be an 
interesting challenge for me.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 


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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Dawn

Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:


Don't know of this, but if true, could be for privacy/modesty during
nursing. Just a thought.




If they're describing it as a " gauzy, nearly transparent layer over her 
dress" then I doubt it was worn for modesty.




Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Dawn

Glenda Robinson wrote:
Not my period either, but I find it amusing they've had to use intensive 
laser scanning to detect something I (and I suppose most others here) 
could see just by looking at a photograph in a book. I never realised 
'no-one' had seen it. It's quite obvious around her hairline.




They're not talking about the veil on her head.

They are claiming to have discovered a gauzy veil over her clothing, 
it's been called an 'overdress' in a few of the articles. It's so 
transparently painted that it's disappeared under the layer of varnish 
and grime on the canvas.




Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Glenda Robinson
Not my period either, but I find it amusing they've had to use intensive 
laser scanning to detect something I (and I suppose most others here) could 
see just by looking at a photograph in a book. I never realised 'no-one' had 
seen it. It's quite obvious around her hairline.


Glenda. 



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RE: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Don't know of this, but if true, could be for privacy/modesty during
nursing. Just a thought.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 8:05 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> IN the last day or so, there have been a number of reports on the 
> intensive laser scan that a Canadian outfit is doing on DaVinci's Mona
Lisa. In addition to a number of other new information, they are saying that
they have detected a gauze veil on her head that they are claiming
demonstrates that she had just given birth.
>  

I don't know about the symbology of the veil they are talking about, but 
  the reports are saying it was placed over her dress, not on her head. 
There's also talk of a 'bonnet'. I've copied a few quotes below, from 
several articles, there seems to be some variation in what's being 
reported and quoted.


Dawn



The NRC study discovered, under dark varnish, a previously unseen gauzy, 
veil-like cloth hanging from the bodice of Mona Lisa's dress. Such a 
garment was common in Renaissance Italy for women who had recently given 
birth, French and Canadian scientists said during a news conference 
yesterday at NRC headquarters.

Dark varnish had also made invisible a newly discovered small bonnet 
worn on the back part of Mona Lisa's head. The bonnet peeks through the 
varnish only with the aid of the NRC's high-tech laser vision.

"Thanks to laser scanning, we were able to uncover the very fine gauze 
veil Mona Lisa was wearing on her dress. This was something typical for 
either soon-to-be or new mothers at the time," Michel Menu, research 
director of the French Museums' Center for Research and Restoration, 
said on LCI television.

It said other details obscured by darkened paint and varnish included 
the hair originally being in a bun and a slightly different posture, as 
well as the gauze dress.

"This type of gauze dress ... was typical of the kind worn in early 16th 
Century Italy by women who were pregnant or who had just given birth," 
said Bruno Mottin of the French Museums' Center for Research and 
Restoration.

Using infrared technology that allowed them to see more clearly beneath 
dark varnish, the scientists found that Leonardo da Vinci's model had a 
gauzy, nearly transparent layer over her dress that was typically worn 
by pregnant women of the time, or mothers who had recently given birth.

The model for Mona Lisa was Lisa Gherardini, the wife of Francesco del 
Giocondo, a Florentine cloth merchant. The discovery of the filmy 
garment, sewn to her dress at the shoulders, means the painting was 
commissioned to celebrate the birth of her third child,

also found that in addition to her veil, Mona Lisa was wearing a dark 
bonnet which cannot be seen under the layer of varnish. It was applied 
long after Leonardo da Vinci died,

...

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RE: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies

2006-09-27 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Try www.vermontcountrystore.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 12:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies


That's pretty close, except they don't seem to make them small enough 
for some of my actresses.  Thanks.

Sylrog

On Sep 26, 2006, at 11:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Is this what you're interested in? 
> http://www.orchardcorset.com/Merchant2/p_G204.html
>
> I also recommend a look around the rest of the site as there are many
> other similar styles to choose from.
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
>
> -- Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Speaking of lift and separate bras, does anyone know if Playtex still 
> makes those?  I need some 50s looking bras and the closest I could 
> find the last time I was looking was the Playtex variety.
>
> Sylrog
>
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Re: [h-cost] A question about "when" (was Bad historical costumemovies)

2006-09-27 Thread Adele de Maisieres

Leah L Watts wrote:


Not a historical show, but back when the original Star Trek was going
into initial production the male cast members announced they were NOT
going to have their hair restyled to something "futuristic" -- the final
compromise was to reshape their sideburns.

 



That's _Star Trek XXXIX: The Final Compromise_.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
- 



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Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-27 Thread Ed Walton


On Sep 27, 2006, at 11:42, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


You're  obviously not a Victorian.



Neither are the *Americans* in "Deadwood". :-P


What's funny is that the rancher I quoted, Teddy Blue Abbot, was  
English. Real name: Edward Charles Abbott. The nickname has something  
to do with a hooker, but I don't know the story.




I agree with your observation of the men's clothe. Like I said  
before, I
find it all a little over designed. The prostitutes look great   
though!


Yeah. A few of the real ones were good looking, too. They usually  
went under the title of "actress" or "singer".


Ed Walton
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
http://www.waltontaylor.com
972-690-1945

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Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-27 Thread Sharon L. Krossa

At 12:42 PM -0400 9/27/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


In a message dated 9/27/2006 11:55:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


You're  obviously not a Victorian.


Neither are the *Americans* in "Deadwood". :-P


"Victorian" values and culture were not limited to the UK or even the 
British empire, and the term is not unreasonably applied to the 
entire Anglophone world for the relevant period, whether under the 
rule of Victoria or not, especially when discussing such things as 
social mores (and, of course, houses -- I'm not sure there are any 
Victorian houses in the UK, in the sense of the particular housing 
design style known as Victorian, but there are tons in the US).


And, of course, the evidence cited to support the Victorian comment 
were clearly American in origin -- so whether you call the period 
"Victorian" or not, the point that in that period even in the 
American West they didn't normally cuss, even in whore houses, 
stands. (Our modern ideas about cussing are, like everything else in 
our culture, modern, and there is no particular reason to expect the 
attitudes toward and practice of cussing to have been the same in the 
past as it is now.)


Sharon
--
Sharon Krossa, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Need help with technology for your research or teaching? Hire me!
http://MedievalScotland.org/hireme/
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/
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Re: [h-cost] A question about "when" (was Bad historical costumemovies)

2006-09-27 Thread Leah L Watts

> Hollywood and History mention this phenomenon.  Hair is almost 
> always wrong, 
> again most commonly upon the female lead.  The reasons for this are 
> also 
> similiar to the reasons given for costumes, including the insistance 
> of the 
> Actors themselves.

Not a historical show, but back when the original Star Trek was going
into initial production the male cast members announced they were NOT
going to have their hair restyled to something "futuristic" -- the final
compromise was to reshape their sideburns.

Leah
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[h-cost] Re: A question about "when"

2006-09-27 Thread Laura Dickerson

Albert cat wrote

Hairstyles are usually what gives things away. Even today. 30 years from
now, all the films we think are accurate, will look like that were made "at 
the
turn of the century" to future viewers. I'll bet you hair is gonna be one 
[of

many] clues for them to point out.<<

  Emma Thompson kept a journal for "Premiere" magazine during the filming 
of "Remains of the Day," which is set in late 1930s England.  After a lot of 
thought and experimentation, the hairdressers decided that the best way to 
make the hairstyles look authentic was to do them in the original way. This 
meant for ET that once her hair was set, she wasn't allowed to wash it for a 
week at a time, something that she found unpleasant.


Laura Dickerson


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Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-27 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 9/27/2006 11:55:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

You're  obviously not a Victorian.



 
 
Neither are the *Americans* in "Deadwood". :-P
 
I agree with your observation of the men's clothe. Like I said before, I  
find it all a little over designed. The prostitutes look great  though!
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Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-27 Thread Ed Walton


On Sep 25, 2006, at 12:20, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



That's nuts! I don't understand being offended by language...in a  
whore

house.
___


You're obviously not a Victorian. Whorehouses often had signs banning  
the use of profanity on the premises, according to first hand  
accounts and photographs of sporting house interiors. You might be  
there to enjoy the "French Girl Show", but you better not cuss while  
doing so.


In 1876, using language like that heard on the Deadwood show would  
get you killed very quickly.


Teddy Blue Abbott, a longtime Montana cowboy and rancher (1870's  
-90's) stated in 1939 when he was 80 yrs old:
 "... six-shooters were a great thing for keeping the peace. You  
wouldn't have any of this calling names and brawling and fighting,  
where every man was wearing a deadly weapon in plain sight. And as  
for that expression about a son of a bitch, I never heard it 'said  
with a smile', as they say, before the nineties. In the early days  
men were soft-spoken and respectful to each other, because it didn't  
pay to be anything else. It's not like that now."


Things in the west were quick and to the point. Notice that rude  
language and its consequences came up as an aside in a discussion of  
firearms and their uses. Calling somebody a bastard or sob was a  
death challenge.


The mores of the time would have demanded instant terminal action  
directed at anyone calling a man a "c*cks*cker" (one of Deadwood's  
favorites) and probably all his associates, plus burning his body.


Concerning the men's costumes, styles depicted on this show range  
from about 1855 to 1900, with a heavy emphasis on the 1880's. Pretty  
bad, but better than most.



Ed Walton
Walton & Taylor Mercantile
http://www.waltontaylor.com
972-690-1945

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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread Dawn

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

IN the last day or so, there have been a number of reports on the intensive laser scan that a Canadian outfit is doing on DaVinci's Mona Lisa. In addition to a number of other new information, they are saying that they have detected a gauze veil on her head that they are claiming demonstrates that she had just given birth. 
 


I don't know about the symbology of the veil they are talking about, but 
 the reports are saying it was placed over her dress, not on her head. 
There's also talk of a 'bonnet'. I've copied a few quotes below, from 
several articles, there seems to be some variation in what's being 
reported and quoted.



Dawn



The NRC study discovered, under dark varnish, a previously unseen gauzy, 
veil-like cloth hanging from the bodice of Mona Lisa's dress. Such a 
garment was common in Renaissance Italy for women who had recently given 
birth, French and Canadian scientists said during a news conference 
yesterday at NRC headquarters.


Dark varnish had also made invisible a newly discovered small bonnet 
worn on the back part of Mona Lisa's head. The bonnet peeks through the 
varnish only with the aid of the NRC's high-tech laser vision.


"Thanks to laser scanning, we were able to uncover the very fine gauze 
veil Mona Lisa was wearing on her dress. This was something typical for 
either soon-to-be or new mothers at the time," Michel Menu, research 
director of the French Museums' Center for Research and Restoration, 
said on LCI television.


It said other details obscured by darkened paint and varnish included 
the hair originally being in a bun and a slightly different posture, as 
well as the gauze dress.


"This type of gauze dress ... was typical of the kind worn in early 16th 
Century Italy by women who were pregnant or who had just given birth," 
said Bruno Mottin of the French Museums' Center for Research and 
Restoration.


Using infrared technology that allowed them to see more clearly beneath 
dark varnish, the scientists found that Leonardo da Vinci's model had a 
gauzy, nearly transparent layer over her dress that was typically worn 
by pregnant women of the time, or mothers who had recently given birth.


The model for Mona Lisa was Lisa Gherardini, the wife of Francesco del 
Giocondo, a Florentine cloth merchant. The discovery of the filmy 
garment, sewn to her dress at the shoulders, means the painting was 
commissioned to celebrate the birth of her third child,


also found that in addition to her veil, Mona Lisa was wearing a dark 
bonnet which cannot be seen under the layer of varnish. It was applied 
long after Leonardo da Vinci died,


...

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[h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-27 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

IN the last day or so, there have been a number of reports on the intensive 
laser scan that a Canadian outfit is doing on DaVinci's Mona Lisa. In addition 
to a number of other new information, they are saying that they have detected a 
gauze veil on her head that they are claiming demonstrates that she had just 
given birth. They are saying that this gauze veil was something that was 
typically worn by women who were either pregnant or had just given birth.
 
I'll be the first one to admit that Italian Ren isn't my area of expertise, but 
as far as I know a gauze veil was simply a common headcovering for women at 
that time. Does anybody on the list have any definitive information on the 
social significance of gauze veils in Renaissance Italy? To me, this smacks of 
yet another Costume Myth, but one with a significant impact due to this report. 
 
Karen
Seamstrix
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