Re: [h-cost] Lövsta Gård in Sweden
What fun! And you look grande as usual. Kathleen - Original Message - From: "Leif og Bjarne Drews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:10 PM Subject: [h-cost] Lövsta Gård in Sweden Gustafs Skål invited to a small winter party at Lövsta Gård on the second of february this year. It was very cosy and intimate because we were not as manny people as usually when they invite to partys at Beatelund. I compleately forgot to take pictures, but a lady borrowed my camera, and ended up with these pictures: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/lovstagard.htm The party started at 3 o clock in the afternoon, but the people i drowe with, had to work to afternoon, so we came a little late, about 5.30. It was very far out in the countryside, and it was a snowblitz, but we came safely to the place. A charming old farm with lovely interriors in the 18th century style. Wonderfull food and wonderfull entertaintment, dansing and gambling, killed the night. Thanks to the organisers and the wonderfull place they found. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
Black is pretty ubiquitous amongst the upper class. The color was one of the more expensive ones to manufacture and maintain. Check out the "Golden Age" of Dutch painting for instance. Also, it was supposedly one of Queen Elizabeth's favorites - next to white. I'd say your only challenge is the amount you have. Not quite enough for a whole outfit, but surely a skirt or bodice which could be coordinated with something else. Sg > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question > Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:23:44 + > CC: > > My first thought would be to go with the late Victorian/Edwardian. You have > to be careful with mourning customs earlier, but thanks to Queen Victoria, by > then it had become fashionable to spend your life in mourning -- or just look > like you were. And 5 1/3 yards might get you to a late Vict. gown or walking > suit or walking skirt -- probably too little for a mid-century giant > hoopskirt, but once they narrow back down again somewhat you're in the > ballpark. > Anyway, enjoy! > -- Original message -- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I just scored 5 1/3 yards of linen blend at my local Joanne's on clearance > > for only $3.00/yard! The only trouble is that it is black linen - but I > > thought "Hey, linen - only $3 - I can make something from that!" My > > question > > to > > the group now - what can I make? I do have linen in other colors as well, > > but > > what periods, styles or types of garments could I use with the black? > > Bodices? Petticoats? Dresses? I'm open to most periods - mostly involved in > > Renaissance Faires - but also love Regency and late Victorian/ Edwardian. > > There > > is no hurry for this -- I just need to know some possiblities. > > > > Thanks to y'alls collective wisdom. > > > > Donna Scarfe > > Fyne Hats By Felicity > > > > > > > > **The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy > > Awards. Go to AOL Music. > > (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp0030002565) > > ___ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
Other then make a nice summer formal suit, how about this? http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/JTintorettoPOALady.jpg De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Black Linen
Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In regards to the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black linen, I know from experience that when something good like that lands on your lap it's very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins are full of about 5 yd cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces that I am afraid to use because there is only enough for one dainty outfit and then it's gone. When the black linen comes to mind, the late Victorian or Edwardian period definitely is a good era to use it on, so many suits and things were made with black linen. In fact, the dress Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they are touring the ship comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit with that and use a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured lace in addition to that. I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only made one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era small accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where to start or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class? Justine:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen
On Feb 13, 2008, at 3:42 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: h I am not sure where to start or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class? I am not familiar with historical Victorian millinery techniques, but a great book with clear instructions for theatrical techniques is _From the Neck Up_ by Denise Dreher. It's not too expensive, and it's fairly easy to use. Good luck, Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen
In a message dated 2/13/2008 5:21:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I am not familiar with historical Victorian millinery techniques, but a great book with clear instructions for theatrical techniques is _From the Neck Up_ by Denise Dreher. It's not too expensive, and it's fairly easy to use. *** Hats are hats. The "theatrical" methods are often the REAL methods because many hats, especially big elaborate ones, are a "make it work" affair. I have a bunch of period bonnets from the 1840's and 50's that my long ago roommate collected and we just couldn't throw out they are all rotting and falling apart. No you cannot wear them or fix them, BUT you can see their innards and see how they were made. Lots of cardboard and wire. And some of the most amazing and clever decoration you've ever seen [why my roommate wouldn't throw them out] There's one simple oyster colored silk bonnet [covering a cardboard and wire frame] decorated with the most realistic wild morning glories, made of paper, you've ever seem Very fine and delicate. My fave is a bonnet that is formed from a wire frame that is like an open mesh. Woven into the frame in geometric patterns are long bias strips of blue-grey silk organdy which curl up into tubes. On one side is a cluster of loops of the tubular organdy strips. It's light as a feather and translucent. I've never seen anything like it! **The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. Go to AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp0030002565) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen
Where are you located? I ask because there are some Victorian costume classes about to start around here (San Francisco bay area). It is a series of classes, starting with underwear and moving on to the outer garments, meant for folks who wish to make their own costume for the Dickens Fair (1840-1860-ish). If you are interested, I'll send you the info. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 12:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Black Linen Hello all, I am new to the list and this is my first post! :) In regards to the dilemma with what to do with the 5 plus yards of black linen, I know from experience that when something good like that lands on your lap it's very hard to chose a project with it later, my bins are full of about 5 yd cuts of absolutely gorgeous satins and laces that I am afraid to use because there is only enough for one dainty outfit and then it's gone. When the black linen comes to mind, the late Victorian or Edwardian period definitely is a good era to use it on, so many suits and things were made with black linen. In fact, the dress Rose's mother is wearing in the scene when they are touring the ship comes to mind also. You can make a slim walking suit with that and use a white silk and light coloured or even brightly coloured lace in addition to that. I need some advice on accessory making, particularly hats. I have only made one hat and it was entirely without the assistance of a purchased pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian and Edwardian era small accessories as well, not just garments though I am not sure where to start or what formal techniques other costumers use! Do the majority who have made them use both patterns and techniques acquired from a hat making class? Justine:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] millinery (was: Black Linen)
Greetings Justine, and welcome to the group. I learned from two sources, the first is the book already mentioned, "From the Neck Up". A really good book imo. The other source was from patterns and a class with Lynn McMasters, who has Victorian era hat patterns with full instructions. http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/ Kimiko --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I need some advice on accessory making, particularly > hats. I have only > made one hat and it was entirely without the > assistance of a purchased > pattern. I would like to start making more Victorian > and Edwardian era > small accessories as well, not just garments though > I am not sure where > to start or what formal techniques other costumers > use! Do the majority > who have made them use both patterns and techniques > acquired from a hat > making class? > Justine:) > Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] muckinger construction
I have a quick question for those of you who go to the Bristol Ren Faire. Ansel was asking me to make him something called a muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his description, I am thinking that the double layer was to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching. Can anybody point me to a description of this accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up with much. None of the examples shown were double layered. The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed. http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a monogram F (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms popular at the time? I don't recall that being much of a fashion until later. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] only five yards
When you only have so much, try to step out of monochromatic and use other colors. http://www.antiquedress.com/item4691.htm http://www.antiquedress.com/item4597.htm http://www.antiquedress.com/item3623.htm http://www.antiquedress.com/item3649.htm http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_490.htm http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_114.htm http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_21.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Harvard scholarly articles
"In a move to disseminate faculty research and scholarship more broadly, the Faculty of Arts and Sciences (FAS) voted Tuesday (Feb. 12) to give the University a worldwide license to make each faculty member’s scholarly articles available and to exercise the copyright in the articles, provided that the articles are not sold for a profit." http://www.news.harvard.edu/gazette/2008/02.14/99-fasvote.html -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] muckinger construction
Well, my husband and I usually pick up hankies at garage sales and use them. However, we are middle-class working folks, so lots of lace and embroidery wouldn't be a good choice for us. I would say a square of linen, hemmed (maybe with hem-stitch?) and a bit of embroidery would be fine...lace if he wants to be pretensious or "make an impression" with the nobles. Remember, lace is EXPENSIVE at this time, so he would have paid a pretty penny (or pound!) for it. I'm not really sure about the monogram. I can offer, if interested, blackworking a muckinger for you/him. Contact me privately if you're interested! *** Rebecca Schmitt aka Mistress Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence at the Dirty Duck Inn Bristol Renaissance Faire My arms are too short to box with God. --Johnny Cash *** > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH > Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 5:32 PM > To: h-costume@mail.indra.com > Subject: [h-cost] muckinger construction > > I have a quick question for those of you who go to the > Bristol Ren Faire. > > Ansel was asking me to make him something called a muckinger > which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a double layer > embroidered hanky. Based on his description, I am thinking > that the double layer was to cover the back of machine > embroidery stitching. > > Can anybody point me to a description of this accessory? I > did a google search and didn't come up with much. None of the > examples shown were double layered. > > The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed. > http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html > Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a monogram F > (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms popular at the > time? I don't recall that being much of a fashion until later. > > Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks > > Rebecca Burch > Center Valley Farm > Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA > > The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between > the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
> Black is pretty ubiquitous amongst the upper class. The color was one of the > more expensive ones to manufacture and maintain. Check out the "Golden Age" > of Dutch painting for instance. Also, it was supposedly one of Queen > Elizabeth's favorites - next to white. I'd say your only challenge is the > amount you have. Not quite enough for a whole outfit, but surely a skirt or > bodice which could be coordinated with something else. It's also pretty ubiquitous of the lower classes too:) And middle. But usually in wool and silk. 5 and 1/3 yards is pretty close to 5m and I used that much of red linen to make my Cleves ensemble easily:) Big sleeves and all: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2179604210/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2178837383/ (the skirts rurn nack but are made to overlap by about 4" when closed yes perspective is way off in the pic I tried to correct for it but it didn't work!) I could probably have used even less because the back is two full width of the fabric with no shaping. I also have half length sleeves that the full sleeves pin to. I just folded my fabric in half and cut gored panels for the front, with piecing as you see in Alcega and the extant gowns: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2165083275/ I could have topped and tailed the pieces too to avoid that seam, but I like it:) Each sleeve length is half the fabric width so I got both sleeves from about 90cm of fabric. It worked out as: 3X 1.2m for the skirt (3.6m) (a little too much reallt and I wound up with some strips left over) 80-90cm for the sleeves (so 4.4-4.5 for skirt and sleeves) 50-60cm for the bodice and half length sleeves. This was 150cm wide fabric (60") so I was able to use that little. For a narrower fabric I would have plotted to get more shaping in the back of the skirt to be able to get my full sleeves or just made a short sleeved gown only. I also have 6m of wide wool in cream to get through and I'm thinking surcoat and kirtle. regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com (I have also made full gowns from double to queen sized blankets so had to learn to use period cutting to make best use of fabric!) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2179604210/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2178837383/ (the skirts rurn > nack but are made to overlap by about 4" when closed yes > perspective is way off in the pic I tried to correct for it but it > didn't work!) Oy, typos got through.. make that "skirts turn back" Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] muckinger construction
Muckinger or Muckender (Ger. schnupftuch (sp?) )Is a handkerchief. This is the first I have heard of it being two layers but I am not an expert on this. -Original Message- I have a quick question for those of you who go to the Bristol Ren Faire. Ansel was asking me to make him something called a muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his description, I am thinking that the double layer was to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching. Can anybody point me to a description of this accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up with much. None of the examples shown were double layered. The ones shown here are mostly lace trimmed. http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/extanthandkerchiefs.html Is that for both men and women? Ansel wanted a monogram F (Frobisher) in the corner. Were monograms popular at the time? I don't recall that being much of a fashion until later. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] digest 57?
Dear friends, Was there a Digest issue 57? I certainly didn't receive it, but I seem to be reading responses to messages in it Would someone be so kind as to forward number 57, assuming it really exists? Thanks! Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1882 gown
Thought some would want to see this before it went bye bye. http://www.antiquedress.com/item6179.htm #6179 - c. 1882 Black Silk Taffeta Bustle Gown! Near Mint Condition! Like new! Really... it's unbelievable that this is over 120 years old! Wonderfully elaborate with all the bells and whistles you would want in a bustle gown - pleats, swags, bows, tucks, fringed gathered rosettes, crochet buttons, etc., etc. Just take the time to look at the close-up photos of all the detailing (click on photo at left). Even has things you didn't know you wanted, like the skirt having a hidden pocket under one of the tiers of lace. The cuffs are great - like little ribbon tied gifts. The bodice is boned also with a hidden inside pocket. Measures: 32" bust (fits more like a 30" bust due to 12" across back), tight ribcage, 26/27" waist, 40" long skirt from waist to hem. Could certainly have been a half-mourning gown due to the black silk taffeta and white tulle trim at cuffs and neck. Shown over a bustle not included. For display, you would only have to stuff the backside with cotton or tissue for the right look if you don't have a bustle. One of those elaborate pieces you can get lost in while looking at all the detailing. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Millinery:
In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year. About the hats, there are a couple in my possession that are opened underneath and you can see the innerds, they usually tend to be made up much in the same way, with a wire frame and buckram or some sort of hay stuffing. Were there specific rules to those things in those days or did the milliners just make them the best they could using their own skills to replicate the latest fashions I wonder? The tricky part seems to be creating hats or bonnets with asymetrical frames, moreso to cover them with fabrics such as velvet where the material seemed to perfectly fitted. The trimmings were so unusual at times, I have a tiny little bonnet that is overflowing with an assortment of trims, many of which I don't think I could even identify! It's hard to find such trimmings in the modern market. There are little tiny metal balls in the size of peas dangling all over, stiff curly thin gold stems sticking out all over, the usual vibrant coloured silk foliage, lace, velvet tabs, etc. Thank you for the suggestion on the book by Denise Dreher, that will be the next Amazon search. Goodnight:) More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Millinery:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In regards to where I am located, unfortunately for the sake of historical costuming/dancing, I was born in the wrong place it seems. I am in the oldest region of the US, Philadelphia area, and it is absolutely dry in terms of places not only to take classes on any sort of Victorian or period costuming, but there aren't any events that happen in this immediate area to wear them to. Nothing good is less than 3 hours from here in any direction so it is hard to get to places that hold ongoing classes. In fact, it seems only the west coast offers the best variety, I was considering going to the costume college this spring but it was sold out, maybe next year. You're more in Rev & Regency territory, with a bit of mid-Victorian from the Civil War folks. Contact the Delaware Valley Costumers' Guild. http://dvcg.bravehost.com/ I'm not sure if Sandy will be able to respond; the last I talked to him he was really sick. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
