Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar

2008-03-19 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 03:41 19/03/2008, you wrote:

Hello, all -

I'm making a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, 
at least, relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's 
pattern...).  (It will also have wings, but that's part of the 
fantasy g).  I want a large standing collar rather than a ruff, 
similar to the picture here:


http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg

Or:
http://tinyurl.com/2yduje

The problem is, I have no idea how to make one, or how it attaches 
to the costume.  Can someone please point me to a book or website 
that might give me some clues?  I need to finish this by tax day 
(Apr. 15 for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is giving 
me fits also.



You could try googling for Supportasse, or you could look in 
Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett, 
where you will find instructions for the one worn by Glenda Jackson 
in Elizabeth R.. Or you could try The Tudor Tailor by Ninya 
Mikhaila and Jane something-Davies (?) ( - sorry - not enough cups of tea!)



Suzi 


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Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar

2008-03-19 Thread Deredere Galbraith

Hi,

I hope this will help
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/elizabethan_wired_ruff.html

Deredere

Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:

Hello, all -

I'm making a fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette, 
at least, relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's 
pattern...).  (It will also have wings, but that's part of the fantasy 
g).  I want a large standing collar rather than a ruff, similar to 
the picture here:


http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg

Or:
http://tinyurl.com/2yduje

The problem is, I have no idea how to make one, or how it attaches to 
the costume.  Can someone please point me to a book or website that 
might give me some clues?  I need to finish this by tax day (Apr. 15 
for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is giving me fits also.


Many thanks in advance.
Sandy

Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
 -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda 


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RE: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar

2008-03-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf
A lot of it depends on the style of dress.  I made one for the Suitable Gown 
for Her Majesty presentation that worked great.  It just slide into the front 
of the rolls created by the outer gown lapels.  I will look for a picture and 
post it.  My websites are just fubar right now and probably will be for awhile.
 
Can you show us a picture of the dress you are making?
 
Sg
 
P.S.  I am assuming also that you realize there are two collars/ruffs there 
right?



 Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 07:32:47 + To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: [EMAIL 
 PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] need advice on making a standing collar 
 CC:   At 03:41 19/03/2008, you wrote: Hello, all -  I'm making a 
 fantasy QE1 costume, but trying to make the silhouette,  at least, 
 relatively accurate to period (I started with Margo's  pattern...). (It 
 will also have wings, but that's part of the  fantasy g). I want a large 
 standing collar rather than a ruff,  similar to the picture here:  
 http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/img/castandcrew/506x316_helen.jpg  
 Or: http://tinyurl.com/2yduje  The problem is, I have no idea how to 
 make one, or how it attaches  to the costume. Can someone please point me 
 to a book or website  that might give me some clues? I need to finish this 
 by tax day  (Apr. 15 for non-U.S. members) and the rest of the dress is 
 giving  me fits also.   You could try googling for Supportasse, or you 
 could look in  Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean 
 Hunnisett,  where you will find instructions for the one worn by Glenda 
 Jackson  in Elizabeth R.. Or you could try The Tudor Tailor by Ninya  
 Mikhaila and Jane something-Davies (?) ( - sorry - not enough cups of tea!) 
   Suzi   ___ h-costume 
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[h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread Saragrace Knauf
I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this skirt 
and thought it was a great idea.  I think I had seen a variation on this a few 
months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but this is the 
first time I've seen it in a catalogue.  
 
http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S
 
Has anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy 
mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably permanently 
sewn in.
 
Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt!  I know I plan on using it 
for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.
Sg
 
As one of my favorite historians said:
 
If you thought of it, they probably did 
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread MaisondeHadley
 
In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy 
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably  
permanently sewn in.


You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the  
same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud, puddles,  
etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing to do  over 
an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an issue of  
practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of the patent  
Dress 
Elevators in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your skirt, or simply  using 
pins.
 
~Joseph



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Home.  
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[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.

2008-03-19 Thread Leif og Bjarne Drews
Dear all,
I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull suggestions 
and comments on my coming projekt.
I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me in a 
folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more questions 
later when i start the projekt.
One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to have a 
close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, and ill take my 
camera with me.
Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, then have 
another important order and you dont have the time to make research. I must do 
this later.

If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a guy 
in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 cm high. 
He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as i didnt have 
any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he sended me a doll, 
and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I started it, and its 
quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i figured it would, but its 
also because i am so critical in details. I am going to make the dress from 
Moreau Le Jeunnes print Les Adieaux. 
So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am 
embroidering the pannels for the dress.
See more here: 
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm

Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm

And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front.

Two buisy!

Bjarne
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[h-cost] Robin's armor question

2008-03-19 Thread picmajik

Hi, Robin:
You may want to ask Stephen of Forth Castle at www.forth-armoury.com. He has 
done research outside the usual SCA sphere of things. If he doesn't know he 
also may be able to point you to someone else who may have documentation. I 
loved your lectures in St. Louis last year.
I am trying to find more Victorian horror-photos of period costumes for you.
I wish I had something else to offer.
thanks,
Debra


 
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RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric weights!

2008-03-19 Thread Joan Jurancich
Just click on the link ( I snipped the original email to make it 
easier to find).  You can go to Fabric.com and subscribe to their 
email announcements to get them directly.


At 01:11 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:

I'm interested. How much is it by the yard or by the bolt? I need 
one bolt of the light weight linen. Costumes to make for upcoming 
events. i loved the linen chemise I made last year. Light and kept 
me cooler than I thought.
PLEASE let us know how to get in on this deal!!!Sincerely, Rebecca 
Rautine[snip]Hey, with this discount - you can even have linen as 
your wall paper.  These utmost necessary fabrics, in the basic 
weights necessary to  complete most projects - will be on sale 
only for this week until  Sunday March 
23. http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1dKkRdW0h7kVyHb=9_Nk 
qVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0AEnter  here to go directly to the discounted 
bolts and save 10%!


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.

2008-03-19 Thread Dawn

Saragrace Knauf wrote:

Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and waistcoat.


The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have one 
myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there, in the 
$100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on fabrics for it




Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric wei...

2008-03-19 Thread CBellfleur
 
Actually, it's Fabrics-store.com.  I'm on their list, too.   Just ordered my 
first fabric from them in January.  They also will send  swatches (for free!). 
   
 
Catherine   
 
In a message dated 3/19/2008 4:36:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Just  click on the link ( I snipped the original email to make it 
easier to  find).  You can go to Fabric.com and subscribe to their 
email  announcements to get them directly.







**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
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[h-cost] Re: Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread RobinandKelly Dorman

 I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this 
 skirt and thought it was a great idea. I think I had seen a variation on 
 this a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but 
 this is the first time I've seen it in a catalogue. 
 http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+SHas anyone ever 
 come across this look in any period in history? The flouncy mode reminds me 
 of some southern belle look, but those are probably permanently sewn 
 in.Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt! I know I plan on 
 using it for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.Sg
 
Mid-19th century: to raise the skirt slightly to show a fancy overpetticoat or 
to provide ease in walking or sports such as croquet.
 
Regards,
Kelly 
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[h-cost] Re: need advice on making a standing collar

2008-03-19 Thread Cin
Suzi said:
You could try googling for Supportasse, ...

...or, in Dutch, portefraise.  There are two extant wire frames in
museum collections; I've written about them on this list previously.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread monica spence
From the back it reminds me of a Robe a la Polinaise C. 1700s. Or a Roman
shade. :-)

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 2:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?



In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
flouncy
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
permanently sewn in.


You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the
same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud,
puddles,
etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing to do
over
an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an issue of
practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of the patent
Dress
Elevators in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your skirt, or simply
using
pins.

~Joseph



**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0
00301)
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Re: [h-cost] Re: corset supplies manufacturers

2008-03-19 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
Many, many thanks!

I'd say Wissner looks like the company everyone buys goods from...just a shame 
they don't sell less than 200 meters, but well, I could perhaps handle that 
somehow:-)

As someone was interested in the Luettges company's prices, here is what they 
wrote to me, with some necessary translations, I hope you'll see them in red:

DESIRA-Metall-Federn,  endlos   €/MeterFlat  steel
  6x0,6mm Art.-Nr. 2600 005   0,7425
  8x0,4mm Art.-Nr. 2150 005   0,6263
11x0,5mm Art.-Nr. 2250 005   0,8303 

  Mindestbestellmenge: 1  Ring = 25m je Abmessung.   Minimal amount  25m 

 Spiralfedern,  endlos
7x0,75mm   Art.-Nr. 3320 000   1,56 €/m   Spiral  steel

Mindestbestellmenge:  1 Ring = ca. 40-60  Meter Lauflänge.  Minimal 
amount  40-60m
 7mm Metallkappen Art. 7004 0002,916 €/100 Stück Metal 
caps, min.100pcs,  2,916 €/100pcs
  Mindestabnahmemenge:  100 Stück. 

 Am Meisten verkaufen  wir für Reifröcke unsere DESIRA-Metall-Federn 6x0,60mm.  
   For hoopskirts the size  6x0,60mm of flat steels is best.
 Sollten Sie breiteres  Material benötigten, so können wir die Abmessung 
11x0,50mm  empfehlen.   if wider bone  necessary, 11x0,50mm is good.
   Unsere  Konditionen lauten wie folgt:
 Lieferzeit: ca. 1 Woche  nach Zahlungseingang.
Zahlung:   Vorauskasse
Lieferung: ab Werk,  zuzüglich Verpackung.
Mindestbestellwert:  77,00 Euro Nettowarenwert. minimal  Total 

  Person to contact: Engels - Sabine  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Minimal amount of pre-cut flat  steels is 100pcs.
Hope it's useful,

Zuzana






   
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[h-cost] Baltimore Area Costume Event

2008-03-19 Thread AnnBWass
Dear List Members:
Those of you in the Mid-Atlantic region of the US may be interested in this  
event.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
A DAY AT MOUNT CLARE MUSEUM HOUSE
Carroll Park, 1500 Washington Blvd.,  Baltimore MD 21230
Saturday, April 19
10:00 am - 3:30 pm 
Spend  the morning viewing the exhibit in the museum house:
It’s In the Details:  Quality in Fashion-Clothing from the Carrolls to the 
Dames  (1760-1917)

Then adjourn to the carriage house for a box lunch and an afternoon of  
illustrated talks and workshops:
Colleen Callahan, Costume and Textile  Specialists
Bustles, Bloomers  Naked Elbows: Women’s Fads   Fashions in the 19th 
Century
 
Carolann Schmitt, Genteel Arts Academy 
hands-on workshop teaching  cartridge pleating, fringe, and bows
(materials provided)
 
Ann Wass, Riversdale House Museum
“'Fresh Assortment of Fine  Goods':Shopping in Federal Baltimore
 
Cost of the program, includes admission to the museum, lunch  workshop  kit:
$30 members of CSA, the National Society of the Colonial Dames of  America, 
or Friends of Mount Clare, $25 for student members of CSA, $35 for  non-members
 
For more information call 410-837-3262 or e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
(mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
 
To register, make check or money payable to CSA Mid-Atlantic Region  and  
MAIL TO: Debbie Farthing, 8210 Deerbrooke Ct., Pasadena MD 21122;  must be 
received by April 16.
Please indicate any dietary restrictions with  your registration.




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Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.

2008-03-19 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Mar 19, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Dawn wrote:

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one.  Cool dress and  
waistcoat.


The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have  
one myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there,  
in the $100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on  
fabrics for it


obligatory_pimping
If you're coming to Costume-Con 26 http://www.cc26.info, we've got  
some very knowledgeable ball-joint doll (sometimes referred to as  
resin dolls) folks attending, and there's going to be a ball-joint  
doll reception in our doll exhibit.

/obligatory_pimping

Japanese ball-joint dolls (exemplified by the Volks Dollfie lines)  
are usually very expensive. There are Japanese brands like Obitsu that  
are more reasonably priced.


There are several Korean manufacturers who make dolls that are as well- 
crafted as the Japanese dolls, and while their design sense is  
sometimes different, they're often very beautiful too. They're also a  
lot cheaper.


A warning, though: These dolls can be habit-forming. I don't think  
it's unintentional that one of the largest US retailers of BJDs is  
named Junky Spot. http://www.junkyspot.com/


andy
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Re: [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.

2008-03-19 Thread Land of Oz
If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a 
guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 
cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as 
i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he 
sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I 
started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i 
figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in details. I am 
going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print Les Adieaux.
So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am 
embroidering the pannels for the dress.

See more here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm

-

As always, your work is beautiful! I think the Canadian guy is getting the 
better end of the deal :-) The dress is beautiful and I love looking at your 
embroidery. The doll, however, is kinda creepy.  I'm sure it will be 
gorgeous when it is completely dressed and has a wig.


Denise B

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Re: Ball jointed dolls was:[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.

2008-03-19 Thread Deredere Galbraith

Welcome to the club!
Do you know that they can be awfully addictive?
A friend of mine who also has ball jointed dolls send me a website from 
that friend of yours.

I told her that I knew you from this list.

I am still working on a 19th century dress and tomorrow I will order her 
wig with ringlets.

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dolls/BJD.html

My darkelf is from dollzone en my girl is from Luts http://www.eluts.com/
She is a senior delf and she is slightly more mature than other models. 
She poses beautifully.

They are wonderfull to take pictures from.
Oh i forgot Losboll it is a flooting head not sure if it is he or she.
I experiment on it to get better on face painting.
http://85.17.225.57/20251-20255/202519501-202519600/202519562_6_Guec.jpeg

Her you can probably vieuw some more pictures of them.
http://deredere.hyves.nl/

I love them With the ones I have I can change wigs, eyes and 
eyelashes even the face paint if I really want.


Yea totally addictive :-)


Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

Dear all,
I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull suggestions 
and comments on my coming projekt.
I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me in a 
folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more questions 
later when i start the projekt.
One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to have a 
close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, and ill take my 
camera with me.
Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, then have 
another important order and you dont have the time to make research. I must do 
this later.

If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in details. I am going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print Les Adieaux. 
So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am embroidering the pannels for the dress.
See more here: 
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm


Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm

And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front.

Two buisy!

Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Wednesday 19 March 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

 Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
 flouncy mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
 permanently sewn in.


 You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the
 same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud,
 puddles, etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing
 to do  over an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an
 issue of practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of
 the patent  Dress Elevators in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your
 skirt, or simply  using pins.


I'd add that, so far, all of the comments relate to the interestingly poofy 
style of the skirt.  1860s bodices were very different than the top of this 
dress, and the combination of the two (the plain, scoop-necked bodice with no 
front seams and the flounced skirt) strikes me as modern.




-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread otsisto
From the back? Are you possible mistaking the pulled up skirt version as the
back of the outfit?

-Original Message-
From the back it reminds me of a Robe a la Polinaise C. 1700s. Or a Roman
shade. :-)

Monica

-Original Message-
In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
flouncy
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
permanently sewn in.



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Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread Jean Waddie

This is similar to one method of making the Polonaise, in the 18th
century:   http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm

Jean


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this skirt and thought it was a great idea.  I think I had seen a variation on this a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but this is the first time I've seen it in a catalogue.  
 
http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S
 
Has anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably permanently sewn in.
 
Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt!  I know I plan on using it for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.

Sg
 
As one of my favorite historians said:
 
If you thought of it, they probably did too.___

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[h-cost] Partlets

2008-03-19 Thread Robin Netherton
It must be obvious when I'm working on a paper, because that's when I 
start peppering the list with questions (rather than writing long 
treatises to answer other people!). As usual, this is about something 
that's rather removed from my own area -- so I don't know much about it.


In my paper (which relates to an aspect of late 14th c. English 
middle-class dress), I'm making a passing reference to partlets, 
specifically to say that they don't show up till well past the period 
I'm focusing on. However, I'd like to be able to say something a little 
more concrete, specifically how much later it is that partlets do show 
up, and in what places.


It's obvious that partlets in a variety of styles are all over the place 
in the late 16th century, but I'm having a harder time nailing down when 
they first appear. (It doesn't help that my reference library is very 
spotty after the late 1400s.)


Along with getting dates for first appearances, I'm especially 
interested in finding clear images of partlets worn outside the dress 
(tied under the arms). White is best, but I'd be happy to find others as 
well. I particularly need examples that have collars, as I'm comparing 
collar styles among different garments over time.


So far the earliest partlets I've located for England are some 
suggestions in Holbein's drawings, around the 1530s, but these are very 
sketchy (literally) so I'm not sure of them, and I can't use the images 
because they're not clear enough. So I still need a good early start 
date and/or example from England.


I found a picture of a woman with a white partlet, worn on the outside 
and tied under the arms, in Flanders, 1563 (specifically in a painting 
by Beuckelaer reproduced in Drea's book on Flemish workingwomen's 
clothing). I don't know how much earlier they show up.


For France, I found a fancy beaded partlet of something transparent, 
worn over a dress, also from 1563, in a portrait of Claude de Beaune 
from the studio of Francois Clouet, now at the Louvre (Fig. 328 in 
Payne). That also feels rather late.


I have nothing on the early side for Italy, Germany, or Spain; my 
library is too slim for these regions.


Can anyone point me toward an earlier appearance for any of these 
countries, and/or toward images of the partlets worn with the ties visible?


To underscore my need here: This is a passing reference in a paper on 
another topic, and I just want to be sure I get the right ballpark for 
first appearances. This is NOT a paper on partlets, and I'm not 
interested in doing extensive research on partlets. (Not this time.) 
Thus my hope that someone else who has already been down this road will 
be able to toss me a date or an image!


Thanks,

Robin




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Re: [h-cost] Partlets

2008-03-19 Thread Cynthia Virtue
Are you treating the transparent kerchiefs at the neck of the circa-1400 
era as something not-a-partlet-ancestor?


-- cv
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Re: [h-cost] Partlets

2008-03-19 Thread Robin Netherton

Cynthia Virtue wrote:
Are you treating the transparent kerchiefs at the neck of the circa-1400 
era as something not-a-partlet-ancestor?


They're not relevant in this case. My concern is actually collars in the 
late 14th c. (actually I'm analyzing a particular narrative passage that 
mentions a collar, so I'm talking about what the collar might have 
looked like). In discussing possibilities, I mention partlets as collars 
made as separate garments, as opposed to the types of collars that are 
attached to, or part of, a garment. It's not the main point of my paper, 
but I need to be able to acknowledge that such a thing does show up at 
some point past the period I'm focusing on.


The scarves that go over the shoulders might well be ancestors to the 
partlet, but they don't have collars, so mercifully I don't have to talk 
about them. If I were focusing on partlet development, I would.


All this just so I can say the equivalent of and a while later you see 
this thing called a partlet ... But vagueness is so unprofessional.


--Robin

--

Robin Netherton
Editor at Large
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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[h-cost] Maria Teresa

2008-03-19 Thread LLOYD MITCHELL
Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest to 
interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740

Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk 
piece a shawl/wrap?

or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl

What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)

I have found the sleeve in Art of Costume in Russia, plate referance #13

For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the 
studio of Marten von Meytens.

Thanks
Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!) 


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RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa

2008-03-19 Thread otsisto
This portrait?
http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp
or
http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php
http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg

-Original Message-
Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature:  I have a quest to
interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740
Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91
Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk
piece a shawl/wrap?
or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl

What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white)

I have found the sleeve in Art of Costume in Russia, plate referance #13

For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the
studio of Marten von Meytens.
Thanks
Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!)


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[h-cost] RE: need advice on making a standing collar

2008-03-19 Thread Pierre Sandy Pettinger

No, not really - two?  I don't / didn't see that.

Sandy

Thanks to all for your suggestions - researching now!

At 10:05 AM 3/19/2008, you wrote:
A lot of it depends on the style of dress.  I made one for the 
Suitable Gown for Her Majesty presentation that worked great.  It 
just slide into the front of the rolls created by the outer gown 
lapels.  I will look for a picture and post it.  My websites are 
just fubar right now and probably will be for awhile.


Can you show us a picture of the dress you are making?

Sg

P.S.  I am assuming also that you realize there are two 
collars/ruffs there right?


Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
 -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  



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[h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread Robin Netherton

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
appears in?


The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
anyone.


--Robin
half brain-dead
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Thursday 20 March 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
 Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
 http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

 Robin Netherton wrote:
  I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID
  on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it
  appears in?
 
  The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for
  anyone.

I found it attributed as follows on Jen Thompson's site:

Agnolo Bronzino: A Daughter of Matteo Sofferoni, 1530-1532
The Royal Collection, Her Majesty the Queen, Elizabeth II

Sorry I don't know what book/s you can find it in, but knowing that it's from 
the Queen's collection might help you find one.  Good luck.


-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

You affect the world by what you browse.-- Tim Berners-Lee

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread Bella
Agnolo Bronzino, c1528 -32, Royal Collection, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/theartofitaly/object.asp?row=13exhibs=CITAFLOROitem=14


 
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.net


- Original Message 
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historic Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, 20 March, 2008 2:45:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
 I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
 on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
 appears in?
 
 The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
 anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead
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  Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
www.yahoo7.com.au/y7mail


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RE: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  I love that one!  It's a Bronzino, and I think it's at Hampton Court - if
I remember right  Hope that helps a bit.

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 9:16 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
 I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no ID 
 on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it 
 appears in?
 
 The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells for 
 anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread Robin Netherton
Many thanks to Catherine and Bella! I figured this would look familiar 
to someone who works in that period. It would have taken me forever...


--Robin
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[h-cost] Re: Painting ID?

2008-03-19 Thread juliana foulare
Portrait of a lady in green, c.1528-32  c.1528-32
  Agnolo Bronzino
  Acquired by Charles I
   
  http://tinyurl.com/3xfphj

   
  Message: 14
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:15:35 -0500
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Painting ID?
To: Historic Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yes, it would help to include the URL, wouldn't it?
http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/ladygreen.jpg

Robin Netherton wrote:
 I had this image bookmarked from an earlier conversation. There's no
 ID 
 on it. Can anyone ID this painting, or (better yet) tell me a book it
 
 appears in?
 
 The site belongs to Ailith Mackintosh, in case that rings any bells
 for 
 anyone.

--Robin
half brain-dead


   
-
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
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