Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood

2008-07-23 Thread Kate M Bunting


Becky Rautine wrote:


Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an 
official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2 
necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't 
think of what it's called right now.

Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It was 
stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in Protestant 
countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too Catholic.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby
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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood

2008-07-23 Thread Sharon Collier
Belt part---
Do you mean girdle? Long necklace-like belt that goes around waist and hangs
down center front? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 1:19 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood



Becky Rautine wrote:


Sorry, the second S is on her large necklace like a baron would wear or an
official ensignia. Are there many portraits where the person wears 2
necklaces? I thought they wore a necklace and the belt-like part (I can't
think of what it's called right now.

Isn't this the IHS monogram which we discussed a couple of months ago? It
was stated that this symbol (representing the name of Jesus) was worn in
Protestant countries at this time because a crucifix was considered too
Catholic.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian,
University of Derby
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[h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread 00217146
I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself  
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a bunch  
of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have tons of linen  
off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a  
paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be  
flatlined.  I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many  
trips to the local Pendleton outlet.  I have no idea what to do with  
it all.


I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the  
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century  
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.


Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I  
haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often.


Curious what others do,
Emma

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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Dawn

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of 
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the 
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century 
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.


How do you define small'?

I need about half a yard to line the body of a dress or a ren-fest 
bodice. Smaller than that and it goes in a box which I push off on 
someone else for crafting, doll clothes, or simply throw away.  Mostly 
it gets used as a cat bed. :)


Anything larger than half a yard has usually been purchased with a 
specific project in mind and there is enough for the jerkin, doublet or 
skirt in the piece. I started labeling the yardage so I can tell at a 
glance what I've got.





Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Lavolta Press
I use small pieces of strong brocades and damasks for corsets and vests. 
 I love brocaded corsets no matter what era they are for, and no I am 
not going to get all agitated about whether coutil is more authentic 
for some eras. I'm not displaying my corsets in public anyway.  Odd bits 
of lace, silk, velvet, and junk jewelry are very useful for trimming 
hats.   I use cotton lace appliques and bits, and leftovers of fabric, 
to patch antique clothes, replace waistbands, etc. I use leftover pieces 
of cottons to make fitting muslins. I don't care if they are all the 
same material, as long as they are all the same weight and there is 
enough to cut one garment section.


However, a few years ago I found that, over a period of many years, I 
had accumulated a bunch of tiny upholstery fabric samples and fabric 
leftovers that I just could not find any way to use. I packed them into 
a couple of big boxes and gave them to an acquaintance who quilts. She 
said she could use the cottons for patchwork quilts and the brocades, 
velvets, etc. for crazy quilts.  The next time I saw her, she was 
hand-sewing together some of my cotton bits into a quilt block.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric. 
I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are 
brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd 
love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.


snip
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[h-cost] paper doll book with turn-of-the-century outfits

2008-07-23 Thread Dawn

From my local news:


Kansas City Museum will sell paper doll book with turn-of-the-century 
outfits


A paper doll book inspired by equestrienne Loula Long Combs has been 
created exclusively for the Kansas City Museum and is available at its 
visitor shop.


The $15.95 book by illustrator and doll historian Johana Gast Anderton 
features hats and outfits based on historic clothing and period 
photographs. Anderton also has donated to the museum a real 24-inch doll 
that Combs commissioned in her own likeness while in Europe in 1908.


Anderton will be on hand to sign copies of the paper doll book from noon 
to 4 p.m. Aug. 3 at the museum, 3218 Gladstone Boulevard.


| Matt Campbell, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.kansascity.com/news/local/story/716482.html

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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Penny Roberts
Piecework Mongolian



- Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 2:05:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself  
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a bunch  
of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have tons of linen  
off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a  
paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be  
flatlined.  I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many  
trips to the local Pendleton outlet.  I have no idea what to do with  
it all.

I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the  
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century  
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I  
haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often.

Curious what others do,
Emma

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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Maggie
I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling. Someone
picked them up whose daughter was in a Costume program at college, so they
got used or passed on successfully, but got out of my house. I don't have
the room for storage that some people do, so I can't keep every piece that I
can say *but I can still use this!* about. I'll never ever make everything I
could. I'll never even make all those handkerchiefs and placemats I've sworn
I could make with this or that. And quilting is just not me.

Of course, once I had reclaimed all that space, I had plenty of space for
new fabric. It's a terrible circle. :()

MaggiRos

On Wed, Jul 23, 2008 at 12:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself
 wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a bunch of
 high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have tons of linen off-cuts
 (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a paper-making friend),
 since everything I make these days seems to be flatlined.  I have a good
 amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many trips to the local Pendleton
 outlet.  I have no idea what to do with it all.

 I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric.
 I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are
 brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd love
 to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

 Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size:

 Doublet, for myself or my husband
 Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
 Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
 Coif/caul
 flatlining for pickadills (linen only)

 I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I haven't
 made enough of them to say that I do it often.




-- 
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html
and your favorite bookseller
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread lauren . walker

Oh, this is too much fun! 

I make pouches for small bits of sewing gear out of pieces as small as 2 x 4. 
Also, pincushions and needlebooks -- wool is very kind to the steel, so I stuff 
with wool or use wool felt if I don't have scrap flannel for the pages. I've 
started lining and fitting boxes with pretty velvet and brocade scraps, and 
then once they're fitted out, of course THEY need a little drawstring bag to 
protect them.

Er, I also make drawstring bags for my modern stuff, like the GPS and the iPod. 
Helps to disguise them if they should stray into a re-enacting event, too.

Bigger pieces make lovely drawstring workbags. It is great to have multiple 
workbags, so I can have one for each unfinished project.  

Fancier pouches are nice, too, and a nice way to show off really lovely scraps.

Hats. 

Doll clothes. 

I am planning to make mitts from an old silk half-slip and from some linen 
off-cuts. This requires enough fabric to cut the mitts on the bias, and these 
mitts are 18th C (I don't know if they were worn in other periods.)

Pieced, sewn hose. 

Gussets. 

Aprons. At least in 18th C there's a rumor of wool aprons, which would indeed 
be great for hearth-cooking. A number of my linen aprons are pieced from 
off-cuts.

Since I do 18th C, anything a yard square or bigger can be hemmed for a 
neck-handkerchief.

A lot of my linen scraps end up being employed as bands and ties and things to 
try to restrain my hair under caps and wigs (it's growing out but still needs 
some help.) I keep meaning to make some coifs for this purpose; I wear a nice 
big linen headrail when I'm medieval, but it's nice to have something tied down 
underneath to pin it to. 

Napkins, cozies, towels, coasters, hot-grabbers (period and otherwise.) 

Did I mention drawstring bags? I make scraps in drawstring bags for tableware, 
too. 

Basket-covers. Nearly every woman I know who does any kind of historical 
playing uses a basket to stand in for a handbag; at minimum it's nice to have a 
piece of fabric to throw over the contents. I keep meaning to make some bags 
fitted to the interior of the basket so I can easily shift contents. 

OK. Back to work...
Lauren


-- Original message -- 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself 
 wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. I have a bunch 
 of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples. I have tons of linen 
 off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a 
 paper-making friend), since everything I make these days seems to be 
 flatlined. I have a good amount of wool in odd sizes, thanks to many 
 trips to the local Pendleton outlet. I have no idea what to do with 
 it all. 
 
 I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of 
 fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the 
 fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century 
 inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics. 
 
 Here's my breakdown, in descending order of fabric size: 
 
 Doublet, for myself or my husband 
 Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool) 
 Sleeves (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate) 
 Coif/caul 
 flatlining for pickadills (linen only) 
 
 I could probably insert tall hat between sleeves and caul, though I 
 haven't made enough of them to say that I do it often. 
 
 Curious what others do, 
 Emma 
 
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling.

You can also cut them in strips (or a very long spiral) and knit or
crochet with them.
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Pixel, Goddess and Queen


Well, depending on what it is and how big it is--

charcloth
trim
pieced hose
pouches
pin holders (I have lots of scraps of wool melton full of pins)
patches
hoods
more pouches
shoes
coifs

Otherwise it goes into the Bin Of Useful Fabric to donate to someone else, 
or into the bin for my Fibers 101 class whereof it gets set on fire to 
teach burn testing.


Jen/pixel/Margaret
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Lavolta Press

Or turn them into rag rugs.

Fran

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

I unloaded tons of short ends and substantial scraps by freecycling.


You can also cut them in strips (or a very long spiral) and knit or
crochet with them.
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 7/23/2008 3:06:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm  curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric.  



 
There's nothing like catching a glimpse of some lining/facing inside a  
sleeve, under a peplum, or at an open neck...made of an expensive beautiful  
fabric. This is why I will save pieces even 1/2 a yard and less if it's  
fabulous.



**Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for 
FanHouse Fantasy Football today.  
(http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr000520)
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
Depends what it is and how much there is.
 
Half a metre or more isn't an offcut, so that stays in the scraps box(es)  to 
be used for corsets, etc.
 
Smaller pieces of nice linens (pretty colours or patterns) goes into the  
trimming linen drawers - likewise with silks - they're used for things like  
edging of tunics and corsets, or facing pocket flaps, or making buttons.
 
Occasionally larger pieces that I'm really never going to use get  ebayed.
 
Other stuff gets put into bin bags and given away to whomever wants it and  
is willing to collect it (bin liners full are a bit tricky to carry on the  
bus!)  - often schools and brownies and charity groups - for crafty  stuff.
 
D
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 23/07/2008 21:28:05 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I've  been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself   
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  I have a  bunch  
of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples.  I have  tons of linen  
off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny  bits to a  
paper-making friend), since everything I make these days  seems to be  
flatlined.  I have a good amount of wool in odd  sizes, thanks to many  
trips to the local Pendleton outlet.  I  have no idea what to do with  
it all.

I'm curious how other  people on this list use smaller pieces of  
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm  looking to steal ideas. Since most of the  
fabrics are brocades and  damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century  
inclination. I'd love to see  uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Here's my breakdown, in  descending order of fabric size:

Doublet, for myself or my  husband
Jerken (sleeveless doublet; brocade)/liripipe (wool)
Sleeves  (used where contrasting sleeves are appropriate)
Coif/caul
flatlining  for pickadills (linen only)

I could probably insert tall hat between  sleeves and caul, though I  
haven't made enough of them to say that I  do it often.

Curious what others  do,
Emma







   
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Cin
 I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself
wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful.  ...

I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of
fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the
fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century
inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics.

Emma,
I'm a quilter when I'm not a costumer or a miliner.  Cotton quilts,
wool scrap over the back of the couch quilts, silk crazy quilts... if
it's too small for a hat lining.  I'm working on quilt #43 now.  For
some reason, all the linen gets used up. so no linen quilts.

Fun question!
--cin
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[h-cost] odd outfit

2008-07-23 Thread otsisto
http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12id=547
At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?

De
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Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread otsisto
Adding to the list,
cloth covered buttons,

removable sleeves,
http://tinyurl.com/282tcs
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/BordoneBambino.jpg

Italian patchwork sleeves,
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Licinio1524.JPG
http://tinyurl.com/6e5k7m

Landesknecht,(like hosen)
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Lucas_Cranach_d._%C3%84._026.jpg

as was suggested, trim
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/IsottaBrembatiGrumelli.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/6mxzq2

forepart
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Lavinia1560.jpg

dress
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Lorenzo_Lotto_046.jpg

If is the Society for Creative Anachronism, there is always pouches needed
for largess.

De

-Original Message-
Well, depending on what it is and how big it is--

charcloth
trim
pieced hose
pouches
pin holders (I have lots of scraps of wool melton full of pins)
patches
hoods
more pouches
shoes
coifs
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Re: [h-cost] odd outfit

2008-07-23 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  Looks like one to me too - the I Am A Queen sort, complete with ermine
and a cloak to match.
   Catherine's pretty popular.  A quick google image search also shows her
in an Italian gown, a couple more variations on a sideless, a couple
variations on Ye Olde Tyme Robes, and a Carravaggio where she looks like
she's about to go wench at the Renn Faire

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 4:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] odd outfit

http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12id=547
At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?

De


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Re: [h-cost] odd outfit

2008-07-23 Thread Robin Netherton

otsisto wrote:

http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12id=547
At a first glance it looks as if St. Catherine is wearing a sideless.
Click on the picture to get to the zoom.
Can someone tell me what she is actually wearing?


She is wearing a fantasy creation that combines the most recognizable elements 
of the sideless surcote (which was traditionally used for St. Catherine but is 
by now a century out of date) with a hodgepodge of elements of more recent 
styles. The dress most definitely never existed.


This one will have to go into my collection of weird Catherines. I have a 
lot of those.


The same artist did multiple Catherines. Compare the Minneapolis example with 
this one at the Philadelphia Museum of art, likely painted a decade or more 
earlier:

http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/102091.html?mulR=26001
He did a lot of other paintings of female saints, too -- it was a specialty of 
his, apparently -- and I'm sure he mixed and matched elements repeatedly.


--Robin





--

Robin Netherton
Editor at Large
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1666
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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[h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

2008-07-23 Thread Mary
 I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and
 have found myself  
 wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful

This is why I have a kid. If it's not clothes for her then toys. A friend gave 
us a bunch of bean bags made from many different small bits of odd fabric. 

Mary
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Re: [h-cost] odd outfit

2008-07-23 Thread otsisto


-Original Message-
otsisto wrote:
 http://www.artsmia.org/viewer/detail.php?v=12id=547

She is wearing a fantasy creation that combines the most recognizable
elements of the sideless surcote (which was traditionally used for St.
Catherine but is by now a century out of date) with a hodgepodge of elements
of more recent
styles. The dress most definitely never existed.

This one will have to go into my collection of weird Catherines. I have a
lot of those.

The same artist did multiple Catherines. Compare the Minneapolis example
with this one at the Philadelphia Museum of art, likely painted a decade or
more earlier:
http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/102091.html?mulR=26001
He did a lot of other paintings of female saints, too -- it was a specialty
of his, apparently -- and I'm sure he mixed and matched elements repeatedly.
--Robin
What threw me off is that the front, because of the chains? looks like a
wide front Burgundian. The belt is similar the belts worn with the wide lace
front.
http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html
Scroll down.

De

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