Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than  
the 16th century.
 
I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury  
Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
 
I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have  
the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works  
well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics).   
The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for  
strength.
 
If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The  
Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined  
hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting.
 
All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Message:  3
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining
To:  h-costume 
Message-ID:  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi,

I'm solving a little problem,  the lining in joined hose in the 15th century 
in general. Was there any - if  yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole 
hose, how often one could see  hose with lining and hose without - and also was 
there lining in hose in  earlier periods? I could only find something in 
Adrien Harmand's book, but my  French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether 
I 
understand  everything...

If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to  it by telling me the 
name of the  subject:-)

Zuzana







   
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Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Pixel, Goddess and Queen


The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with 
white taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here: 
http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm).


Jen/pixel/Margaret

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than
the 16th century.

I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury
Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).

I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have
the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works
well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics).
The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for
strength.

If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The
Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined
hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting.

All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.





In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Message:  3
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining
To:  h-costume 
Message-ID:  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi,

I'm solving a little problem,  the lining in joined hose in the 15th century
in general. Was there any - if  yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole
hose, how often one could see  hose with lining and hose without - and also was
there lining in hose in  earlier periods? I could only find something in
Adrien Harmand's book, but my  French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether 
I
understand  everything...

If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to  it by telling me the
name of the  subject:-)

Zuzana


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Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Maggie
You have to remember that "hose" is the word for all sorts of things from
trunk hose to "tights". Sometimes it just means "pants", like venetians or
slops. The sentence is question is "he said to her, Go fetch me the white
hose lined with white taffeta which I left In a certain chest when I went
away." That to me means trunk hose..

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 7:43 AM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen <
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with white
> taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here:
> http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm).
>
>
Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9
Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.
CANADIAN readers may want to use
http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108
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Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.

2008-07-30 Thread Margo Anderson


On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Robin Netherton  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

wrote:

The organizer would like to get a sense of how much
interest there is so she can choose a suitable venue.


I'll drive 400 miles for that!
(If gas is less than $10 a gallon by then, that is)

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Zuzana Kraemerova
> I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the
> lining would need to have  
> the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never
> found anything that works  
> well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern
> stretch fabrics).   
> The only area I line is the part at the waist where the
> points sit...

Yes, that's exactly my problem, too. My question was purely theoretical. 
I know Ninya Mikhaila's fitting method, I do it more or less the same, but I 
still have a lot of trouble, especially when fitting over the pelvis. When it 
fits snugly when standing, it will pull too much when sitting...and when it's 
ok while sitting, it makes an awful lot of bulk when standing.

Thank you all for the information. I would be thankful to Melanie if she would 
look some exact pictures up sometime, because my collection of manuscripts is 
very poor:-( 

Zuzana



  
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Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On Jul 30, 2008, at 6:05 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ 
Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg. I would be thankful to Melanie  
if she would look some exact pictures up sometime, because my  
collection of manuscripts is very poor:-(


As I said before, they're not joined hose, but you can see the  
partial lining at the top and the holes for points (lacing) very  
clearly.  This is from Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle of the  
Legend of the True Cross in the San Frencesco choir chapel in Arezzo,  
Italy.


http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg

There's also St. Roch by Carpaccio in the Carrara Gallery, Bergamo.   
You can't tell how far down the lining goes, though.


http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/crivelli-st-roch-wallace.jpg

I thought that one of Pisanello's hanged men also showed hose lining,  
but alas it does not.


Melanie Schuessler
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[h-cost] C18th and C19th Accessories

2008-07-30 Thread Serena Dyer
The Dressing History Shop is now online at 
http://www.dressing-history.co.uk/shop .  It provides a range of accurate C18th 
and C19th accessories, including bonnets, stockings, silk ribbon and hand made 
mitts, as well as many other unique or hard to find products.

We will also have a stall at the Jane Austen Festival later this year, selling 
our 1790 to 1817 products.

I hope that our products will be of interest to you,

Serena

Serena Dyer
Dressing History
Bedfordshire, UK
01767 640199
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
http://www.dressing-history.co.uk
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Re: [h-cost] Hose lining

2008-07-30 Thread Heather Rose Jones


On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from  
earlier than

the 16th century.

I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in  
Canturbury

Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).






All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course.


In terms of joined hose, I've only cataloged one pair earlier than  
the 16th century -- I don't have my full notes in front of me at the  
moment, but they're in one of the German museum photo collections and  
are listed as 15th c.  While the two legs are joined at the  
waistband, they aren't joined across the seat.  The photo doesn't  
appear to show a lining, but I don't know what the preservation  
conditions were -- a linen lining might be lost under many conditions  
where the main fabric was preserved.


On the larger question of extant hose -- if we include anything from  
buskins on up -- I have a couple dozen items in my current catalog  
from the general 8-15th century period.  About half of them are  
ecclesiastical in origin, but during that period they seem to be  
roughly similar in cut to the secular garments.


Heather

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