Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than the 16th century. I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)). I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics). The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for strength. If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting. All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course. In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Message: 3 Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Zuzana Kraemerova <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining To: h-costume Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I'm solving a little problem, the lining in joined hose in the 15th century in general. Was there any - if yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole hose, how often one could see hose with lining and hose without - and also was there lining in hose in earlier periods? I could only find something in Adrien Harmand's book, but my French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I understand everything... If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to it by telling me the name of the subject:-) Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with white taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here: http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm). Jen/pixel/Margaret On Wed, 30 Jul 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than the 16th century. I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)). I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the lining would need to have the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never found anything that works well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern stretch fabrics). The only area I line is the part at the waist where the points sit - that for strength. If looking for a pattern, and info on how to make them, I'd recommend The Tudor Tailor - the ones that Ninya shows are cut the same as earlier conjoined hosen, and she gives detailed direction on the fitting. All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course. In a message dated 29/07/2008 17:02:47 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Message: 3 Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 13:23:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Zuzana Kraemerova <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining To: h-costume Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I'm solving a little problem, the lining in joined hose in the 15th century in general. Was there any - if yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole hose, how often one could see hose with lining and hose without - and also was there lining in hose in earlier periods? I could only find something in Adrien Harmand's book, but my French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I understand everything... If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to it by telling me the name of the subject:-) Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
You have to remember that "hose" is the word for all sorts of things from trunk hose to "tights". Sometimes it just means "pants", like venetians or slops. The sentence is question is "he said to her, Go fetch me the white hose lined with white taffeta which I left In a certain chest when I went away." That to me means trunk hose.. On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 7:43 AM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen < [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The account of the Martin Guerre trial mentions white hose lined with white > taffeta. The account was published in 1572 (translation here: > http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/hgarrett/documents/coras.htm). > > Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback. CANADIAN readers may want to use http://www.amazon.ca/Compendium-Common-Knowledge-1558-1603/dp/0981840108 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.
On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Robin Netherton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The organizer would like to get a sense of how much interest there is so she can choose a suitable venue. I'll drive 400 miles for that! (If gas is less than $10 a gallon by then, that is) Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
> I don't tend to line the ones I make, because the > lining would need to have > the same stretch as the outer wool, and I've never > found anything that works > well without ripping out (naturally, I won't use modern > stretch fabrics). > The only area I line is the part at the waist where the > points sit... Yes, that's exactly my problem, too. My question was purely theoretical. I know Ninya Mikhaila's fitting method, I do it more or less the same, but I still have a lot of trouble, especially when fitting over the pelvis. When it fits snugly when standing, it will pull too much when sitting...and when it's ok while sitting, it makes an awful lot of bulk when standing. Thank you all for the information. I would be thankful to Melanie if she would look some exact pictures up sometime, because my collection of manuscripts is very poor:-( Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
On Jul 30, 2008, at 6:05 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg. I would be thankful to Melanie if she would look some exact pictures up sometime, because my collection of manuscripts is very poor:-( As I said before, they're not joined hose, but you can see the partial lining at the top and the holes for points (lacing) very clearly. This is from Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross in the San Frencesco choir chapel in Arezzo, Italy. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Piero_della_Francesca_016.jpg There's also St. Roch by Carpaccio in the Carrara Gallery, Bergamo. You can't tell how far down the lining goes, though. http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/crivelli-st-roch-wallace.jpg I thought that one of Pisanello's hanged men also showed hose lining, but alas it does not. Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] C18th and C19th Accessories
The Dressing History Shop is now online at http://www.dressing-history.co.uk/shop . It provides a range of accurate C18th and C19th accessories, including bonnets, stockings, silk ribbon and hand made mitts, as well as many other unique or hard to find products. We will also have a stall at the Jane Austen Festival later this year, selling our 1790 to 1817 products. I hope that our products will be of interest to you, Serena Serena Dyer Dressing History Bedfordshire, UK 01767 640199 [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.dressing-history.co.uk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from earlier than the 16th century. I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in Canturbury Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)). All this is assuming that you mean joined hose of course. In terms of joined hose, I've only cataloged one pair earlier than the 16th century -- I don't have my full notes in front of me at the moment, but they're in one of the German museum photo collections and are listed as 15th c. While the two legs are joined at the waistband, they aren't joined across the seat. The photo doesn't appear to show a lining, but I don't know what the preservation conditions were -- a linen lining might be lost under many conditions where the main fabric was preserved. On the larger question of extant hose -- if we include anything from buskins on up -- I have a couple dozen items in my current catalog from the general 8-15th century period. About half of them are ecclesiastical in origin, but during that period they seem to be roughly similar in cut to the secular garments. Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume