[h-cost] need a clue
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm# what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve? De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need a clue
De, It looks like fly-fringe, What a beautiful dress. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history. - Original Message - From: "otsisto" To: "Historical Costume" Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:38 AM Subject: [h-cost] need a clue http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm# what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve? De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need a clue
At 08:38 17/12/2008, you wrote: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm# what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve? It is "fly fringe", a handmade trim, usually from silk ribbon and thread. Apparently it used to be one of the things ladies did to keep their hands busy, like knotting. This one is very spectacular though. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need a clue
Thank you. -Original Message- De, It looks like fly-fringe, What a beautiful dress. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history. - Original Message - From: "otsisto" To: "Historical Costume" Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:38 AM Subject: [h-cost] need a clue > http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_1995.235a%2Cb.htm# > > what is trimming the edges of this gown's sleeve? > > De > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Small-scale clothing
On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 7:57 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote: > > On Nov 21, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Robin Netherton wrote: > >> Wow indeed. >> >> Also of interest, this appears to be a promo for the upcoming movie >> version of Coraline, an absolutely brilliant children's novel by Neil >> Gaiman. (If you've never read it, I would strongly recommend the audiobook >> version, which captivated me on a very long car trip a few years ago.) >> > > I would add that, while brilliant, this book is pretty creepy and not > really suitable for young kids. > > Looking forward to the movie! > > Melanie Schuessler > > Has anyone else had trouble opening this site? It's been stuck on 63 for about five minutes now. I'm at work with the heavy-duty server, so I know it's not that making the going so slow. LynnD ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
As to your question: is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? I may be over generalizing, but I think every garment manufacturer and pattern company on the planet uses a different one. Period garments from before, say, 1960 (again, generalizing) weren't designed to fit with the same ease as modern garments, so modern measurement tables may not be appropriate anyway. Claudine - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden To: Historical Costume Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:42:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Straw Helmet
That is one over the top sun bonnet, you bet! -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 11:03 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Straw Helmet http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/ho_32.132.htm# Browsing the met stuff, found this. Too cool! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Straw Helmet
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/expl/ho_32.132.htm# Browsing the met stuff, found this. Too cool! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases. My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very close. Happy sewing, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming, Spring 2009: Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions & Uses www.mantua-maker.com http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Aylwen, What you actually want is called pattern grading if you Google that you might have more success (you'll probably find techniques for modern garments that you should hopefully be able to adapt for your pattern). Elizabeth -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden Sent: Wednesday, 17 December 2008 4:43 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage them to wear period undergarments? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Ph/sms 0409 817 623 On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 7:07 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker wrote: > There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one > part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases. > > My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price > and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something > close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very > close. > > Happy sewing, > Deb Salisbury > The Mantua-Maker > Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns > Renaissance to Victorian > Upcoming, Spring 2009: > Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, > Definitions & Uses > www.mantua-maker.com > http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com > > > Dear List > I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency > gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into > other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? > And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? > When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from > my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size > patterns from an extant garment. > Many thanks, > Aylwen > Bye for now, > > Aylwen Gardiner-Garden > http://www.regencyreproductions.com > http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Depends on your goal. If you want to *approximate* a period look, then you can draft it to be worn over modern undergarments, but it will only approximate the historic look. If you want it to look properly historic, the patterns must be drafted to be worn over the historic undergarments. Regency is tricky, to my eye if the best attempt at the historic look isn't made, the dress just looks like a modern, empire waist gown. FWIW, Claudine - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 1:40:28 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage them to wear period undergarments? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Ph/sms 0409 817 623 On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 7:07 AM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker wrote: > There is no overall easy change to grade a garment. You need to change one > part a lot, and the other end just a hair in many cases. > > My favorite grading book is "Grading Techniques for Modern Design" by Price > and Zamkoff. It shows lots of variations, and I can usually find something > close to the garment I am grading. It's not perfect, but it is usually very > close. > > Happy sewing, > Deb Salisbury > The Mantua-Maker > Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns > Renaissance to Victorian > Upcoming, Spring 2009: > Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, > Definitions & Uses > www.mantua-maker.com > http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com > > > Dear List > I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency > gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into > other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? > And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? > When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from > my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size > patterns from an extant garment. > Many thanks, > Aylwen > Bye for now, > > Aylwen Gardiner-Garden > http://www.regencyreproductions.com > http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sewing machine manual
Hi, I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan sewing machine - but I could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one? I'll pay you for a photocopy of it! thanks! -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
Have you checked singer.com? You can probably download the manual for free from them. Karen On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:53:19 -0500 Judy Mitchell wrote: Hi, I've been gifted with an old Singer Spartan sewing machine - but I could use the manual. Does anyone happen to have one? I'll pay you for a photocopy of it! thanks! -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
Karen Heim wrote: > Have you checked singer.com? You can probably download the manual for > free from them. > > thanks, Karen. They say they do, but the page doesn't work. I'll give them a call tomorrow. Gee, I wonder if I can find any of the accessories for it: I'd love to get a buttonholer after all the talk about how great the old singers were for buttonholing (I hate doing buttonholes, and my Kenmore isn't too fond of them either). -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
Gee, I wonder if I can find any of the accessories for it: I'd love to get a buttonholer after all the talk about how great the old singers were for buttonholing (I hate doing buttonholes, and my Kenmore isn't too fond of them either). I got a buttonholer kit for my Singer 220 from eBay, of all places, at a good price. Why not check there? Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England www.marjoriegilbert.net http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Don't know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up or down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Kind of hit or miss, but sizes up proportionally. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Garden Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:43 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Dear List I have finally traced off all the pattern pieces to one of my regency gowns. I can copy it, but am looking for an easy way to draft it into other sizes as it is very small. Is there a simple method to do this? And is there a set of measurements I should be using as a standard? When I look in my books and online I can only find how to draft from my measurements, and not how to draft to produce different size patterns from an extant garment. Many thanks, Aylwen Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Austen.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
In a message dated 12/17/2008 4:47:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com writes: Regency is tricky, to my eye if the best attempt at the historic look isn't made, the dress just looks like a modern, empire waist gown. Agreed. There's the way the breasts are raised, and supported from underneath that a modern bra just doesn't do. And the general posture is changed with a corset. Even a loose corded corset that is snug but not binding will change the body so it is round at the waist. Naturally, looking down from the top, one is oval, with the long way from side to side, at the waist. Even the gentle snugness of a light corset makes this shape round and thus looking narrower at the waist if viewed from the front (or the back). Of course now it is wider at the waist if viewed from the side, but fortunately, one usually has arms there to obscure this fact. I've seen costume Regency gowns that had lightly boned linings cut along the lines of the corset with gussets at the bust...that give a good shape. The actual gowns were cut completely differently sorta mounted on a corset like foundation. Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sha...@collierfam.com writes: Don't know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up or down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is a good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 places. It's easydon't be put off by the math. Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get out your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divideand put in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you're blowing it up 140%. It works the other way too. The size of the bust in the pattern is 40". You need it to be 35". Put in the NEW size 1st: 35". Now divide by the old size: 40". And you get 0.875. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%. Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD sizemove decimal 2 spaces to the right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW SIZE 1ST) **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-d p&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
- Original Message From: "albert...@aol.com" To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:10:38 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question ... Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. ... Albert, There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like to know. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
cool beans! Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is a good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 places. It's easydon't be put off by the math. Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get out your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divideand put in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces and you're blowing it up 140%. It works the other way too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
Hi, You can download a manual for the Spartan from Singer at this site, just put the model number (i.e. 192) in the search box: http://www.singerco.com/accessories/manuals.html It will use a set standard low shank accessories that you can buy on ebay. Dennis __ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
