[h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
I'm thrilled to announce the release of http://www.5rivers.org/contents/en-ca/d86.html Elephant's Breath London Smoke: Historical Colour Names, Definitions Uses, edited by http://www.mantua-maker.com/ Deb Salisbury. This is the historical textile maven's indispensable resource. Have you ever read about a Victorian dress, and wondered: What colour, exactly, is heliotrope? Did you ever read an Elizabethan novel and say: Did anyone really wear Puke? When Chaucer wrote: his eyen bright citrin, did you wonder about what colour is citrin? Have you wondered when aniline dyes were invented, how indigo was used, or how black fabric was dyed? Perhaps you have wondered when the colour London Smoke was used, or when Eiffel red was invented. Here is the book to tell you! Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Color Names, Definitions, and Uses will tell you about colour in history, the names of colors, when they were used, how they were used, what they looked like, and where they came from. There are dye recipes, paint ingredients, poetic language and general commentary all in the words of period writers. You will learn about mourning colours, the effects of artificial light on colour, advice on what colours to wear, the colours found in cosmetics and theatrical make-up, and the names of the colours of horses. You can read about symbolism in colours, heraldic colours, and complaints about the names of colours. Deb Salisbury, author of Elephant's Breath London Smoke has perused fashion magazines, books of dye recipes, art books, painter's manuals, mineralogy guides, tomes on colour theory, metaphysical texts, poetry and fiction, but especially period dictionaries and encyclopaedias. Any resource that might give a hint on what a colour looked like or how it may have been used was fair game, from Chaucer to Chemistry Journals. Most of the entries were printed in English, American, Canadian and Australian publications from around 1380 to 1922. Because French was the language of fashion, many of the English terms are French words. She has attempted to explain those colours, too. If you are curious about colour, you will want this book! Fran Grimble, of http://www.lavoltapress.com/ Lavolta Press, says: The editor, Deb Salisbury, has expended an astonishing amount of industry in combing public domain sources for references to colour names. And there they are, 230 pages of quotes, alphabetized by colour name, with sources for the quotes at the end of each. Varying colour definitions from contemporary fashion magazines, quotes from Victoria books on Renaissance fashions, mentions of colours with no definitions. It's all there. In summary, the book could considerably shorten the search for definitions of colour names by providing quotes from numerous sources -- fashion magazines and fiction as well as dictionaries and encyclopaedias -- and of different dates. Elephant's Breath London Smoke: Historic Colour Names, Definitions Uses Editor: Deb Salisbury Publisher: Five Rivers Chapmanry ISBN: 978-0-9739278-2-5 Trade paperback 7 x 10 300 pages Print $32.95, eBook $10.95 Available from: http://www.5rivers.org/ Five Rivers, http://www.mantua-maker.com/ The Mantua-Maker; and coming soon to: http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/books/search?keywords=Lorina Chapters, http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?WRD=lorina+stephens z=y Barnes and Noble, http://www.whsmith.co.uk/CatalogAndSearch/SearchWithinCategory.aspx?gq=lori na+stephenscat=\Books W.H. Smith , http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias=apsfield-keywords=lor ina+stephens Amazon, http://www.booksonboard.com/ Books on Board, https://www.echapterone.com/ eChapterOne, http://www.ereadable.com/ Ereadable Five Rivers Chapmanry micro-publisher purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens Now Available: And the Angels Sang, by Lorina Stephens Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens How to Write a Non-fiction Book in 60 Days, by Paul Lima Coming Soon: Elephant's Breath London Smoke: Historical Colour Names, Definitions Uses, by Deb Salisbury 519-799-5577 mailto:i...@5rivers.org i...@5rivers.org - http://www.5rivers.org/ www.5rivers.org - http://5riversnews.blogspot.com/ http://5riversnews.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Lorina -
I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site
independently to order this book. Each time I get an error message and
get kicked out of IE. And there's no mechanism to order the book on
Deb's site. Is there an another way to order or get more information?
Carolann Schmitt
cschm...@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 5-8, 2009
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
Through Amazon.com...but you better hurry. I only see two copies so far!
Sg
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:20:48 -0600
From: cschm...@genteelarts.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Lorina -
I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site
independently to order this book. Each time I get an error message and
get kicked out of IE. And there's no mechanism to order the book on
Deb's site. Is there an another way to order or get more information?
Carolann Schmitt
cschm...@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 5-8, 2009
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Hello everyone, My elder brother, who is currently studying ethnic minorities in Vietnam, came to me with a question about a loom he saw there. Unfortunately I was unable to answer him, since my weaving knowledge is very scarce, but I promised him to try and find more knowleadgeable persons, and where else can I find them but here ? ;) I'll try to be as clear as possible, although I have to translate his words into English, and I must say I'm not very familiar with French weaving terms to begin with. Basically, he photographed this : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19370...@n02/ and he's now wondering what type of loom it is, how best to describe it and how elaborate or modern it could be. More specifically, he saw similar looms in other works described as an horizontal loom with one row (shaft would be more appropriate, I believe ?) of heddles, or sometimes as one with two shafts (the French words, for those interested, were rangs de lisses). He tried to do his own research on the web, but living in Cambodia he hasn't access to the best ressources, and he's not sure whether this loom is of the first or the latter kind, or if, as he suspects, it is a third, different type. Hopefully the pictures are good enough for more experienced eyes than his to tell ? You can reply privately or on the list if the subject does not seem too off topic (though it's not historical per se). If some of you are particularly interested, I can of course ask him more about the pictures and where they were taken ! Thank you for your help, Mathilde ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
At 10:20 AM 2/6/2009, you wrote: Hello everyone, My elder brother, who is currently studying ethnic minorities in Vietnam, came to me with a question about a loom he saw there. Unfortunately I was unable to answer him, since my weaving knowledge is very scarce, but I promised him to try and find more knowleadgeable persons, and where else can I find them but here ? ;) I'll try to be as clear as possible, although I have to translate his words into English, and I must say I'm not very familiar with French weaving terms to begin with. Basically, he photographed this : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19370...@n02/ and he's now wondering what type of loom it is, how best to describe it and how elaborate or modern it could be. More specifically, he saw similar looms in other works described as an horizontal loom with one row (shaft would be more appropriate, I believe ?) of heddles, or sometimes as one with two shafts (the French words, for those interested, were rangs de lisses). He tried to do his own research on the web, but living in Cambodia he hasn't access to the best ressources, and he's not sure whether this loom is of the first or the latter kind, or if, as he suspects, it is a third, different type. Hopefully the pictures are good enough for more experienced eyes than his to tell ? You can reply privately or on the list if the subject does not seem too off topic (though it's not historical per se). If some of you are particularly interested, I can of course ask him more about the pictures and where they were taken ! Thank you for your help, Mathilde The loom is a backstrap loom. It's been used in Southeast Asia and China for millennia. The basic weaving is probably plain weave; the patterned stripe is done with a pick-up technique. It's amazing that such a simple loom can, in the hands of a skilled weaver, have a product that is so complex. Just goes to show that it's the skilled weaver rather than the loom that is key to beautiful weaving. Another area where the backstrap loom has been used for millennia (and for very complex weaving) is in the Andes. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site independently to order this book. There remains a conflict between ShopFactory (the shopping cart software I use) and those who are using IE7 with the Google toolbar. Despite patches from the software manufacturer, there still seem to be glitches. To browse Five Rivers' site you'll have to disable the Google Toolbar, unfortunately. For those who use Mozilla or Firefox, or IE7 without the Google Toolbar, there's no problem. Or, as Saragrace has suggested, you can also order through Amazon. Don't pay any attention to Amazon's stock levels. The book is a POD (print on demand) book, which means books are only printed when ordered, which saves inventory management and warehouse space. Elephant's Breath should be showing up on Barnes Noble, W.H. Smith (for the UK and EU), as well as just about every other online retailer, both for print and eBook, over the next two weeks. For Canadian customers, you can contact me, or wait until it shows up on Chapters, which will take longer, likely until the first week of March, Chapters being what they are. Deb will have the book up on her site within the next few days if you'd rather order directly from her. (And check out her great patterns too! d...@mantua-maker.com http://www.mantua-maker.com) If anyone is having problems, don't hesitate to contact me. I'm almost always available. Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry micro-publisher purveyor of quality custom shower doors by Gary Stephens Now Available: And the Angels Sang, by Lorina Stephens Shadow Song, by Lorina Stephens Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens How to Write a Non-fiction Book in 60 Days, by Paul Lima Elephant's Breath London Smoke: Historical Colour Names, Definitions Uses, by Deb Salisbury 519-799-5577 i...@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org - http://5riversnews.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Elephant's Breath and London Smoke Now Available
My copies of Elephant's Breath and London Smoke are in the post. I plan to it on my website as soon as they get here, but since I don't know when they'll arrive ... I'll put a notice on my website about it, though! Happy sewing, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns Renaissance to Victorian Available any day now: Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions Uses www.mantua-maker.com http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com I've tried the links and I've tried to access your site independently to order this book. Each time I get an error message and get kicked out of IE. And there's no mechanism to order the book on Deb's site. Is there an another way to order or get more information? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Wow! I've never seen such a wide backstrap loom. Kim The loom is a backstrap loom. It's been used in Southeast Asia and China for millennia. The basic weaving is probably plain weave; the patterned stripe is done with a pick-up technique. It's amazing that such a simple loom can, in the hands of a skilled weaver, have a product that is so complex. Just goes to show that it's the skilled weaver rather than the loom that is key to beautiful weaving. Another area where the backstrap loom has been used for millennia (and for very complex weaving) is in the Andes. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Yes, it's a backstrap loom. What an absolutely beautiful piece she is weaving. In the middle photo, it shows a close up of her work with her hands folded - you can see the warp being picked up by a stick for the narrow band of design -- look at the far left of the photograph to see the warp threads over the stick. Denise B Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?
They didn't want to fit through the (mind blip, whatever the name is for that space between the needle part and the body of the machine) I believe it's called the harp. Laurensa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Hmm, I used one of these when visiting a workshop in Bali (and had to pay five thousand rupia for the privelige of doing someone's work for five minutes. I gotta say, my five minutes was equal to about twenty minutes of the regular operator's. The thing is called either a back-trap or back-strap loom (my memory and my host's heavy accent mean it could be one or the other). It is operated row-by-row with the aid of a foot pedal and a horizontal hand bar, all timber. You work the lines of thread horizontally through the vertical threads set onto the loom. You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular pattern. I would give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for this technique but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, the pattern is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way the pattern comes out. I have a couple of shirts with it as a feature pattern around the collar and splodges of the dye on the main part of the shirt -- they really don't set dyes well thereabouts! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?
On Feb 6, 2009, at 4:34 PM, Dianne wrote: They didn't want to fit through the (mind blip, whatever the name is for that space between the needle part and the body of the machine) I believe it's called the harp. Thank you! That was driving me crazy. Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Those are nice pictures! I'm more familiar with the backstrap loom in Central America. If he's willing to slog through a couple of books in English, some standard works are The Book of Looms by Eric Broudy and The Art of the Loom by Ann Hecht. I'm sorry that I can't recommend books in French. :-) Perhaps someone else on the list will know of some. Suzanne On Feb 6, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom Hello everyone, My elder brother, who is currently studying ethnic minorities in Vietnam, came to me with a question about a loom he saw there. Unfortunately I was unable to answer him, since my weaving knowledge is very scarce, but I promised him to try and find more knowleadgeable persons, and where else can I find them but here ? ;) I'll try to be as clear as possible, although I have to translate his words into English, and I must say I'm not very familiar with French weaving terms to begin with. Basically, he photographed this : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19370...@n02/ Thank you for your help, Mathilde ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Ikat? gives an interesting blurr to the design as it is being woven.. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of stils...@netspace.net.au Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 6:48 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom Hmm, I used one of these when visiting a workshop in Bali (and had to pay five thousand rupia for the privelige of doing someone's work for five minutes. I gotta say, my five minutes was equal to about twenty minutes of the regular operator's. The thing is called either a back-trap or back-strap loom (my memory and my host's heavy accent mean it could be one or the other). It is operated row-by-row with the aid of a foot pedal and a horizontal hand bar, all timber. You work the lines of thread horizontally through the vertical threads set onto the loom. You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular pattern. I would give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for this technique but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, the pattern is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way the pattern comes out. I have a couple of shirts with it as a feature pattern around the collar and splodges of the dye on the main part of the shirt -- they really don't set dyes well thereabouts! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dry cleaning a large gown
Thanks ladies! --cin From: Talia tali...@gmail.com When I had my daughter's beaded wedding dress (with long train) cleaned after her reception, it was almost $300. But, it was an outdoor wedding and there was a good lot of mud on the hem from the rain. Talia From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com Tell them you want it done bulk, where they just clean it and hang it up. Priced by the pound. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume On Behalf Of Cin Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 5:43 PM Ladies gents, Do a quick sanity check for me, if you please. A friend I have been pricing the cleaning of a large silk beaded gown (think pretty full wedding dress in size) in preparation for a trip thru a professional dye bath. What's the going rate these days for just the cleaning, but not the finishing service? I'm sure this is appropriate only to the US group, but what the heck... Thanks y'all, --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
