Re: [h-cost] 2011 Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference

2010-09-01 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Thank you so much for posting this--I had NO idea something like this was
so close to home for me, and I definitely will be attending.  I'm not a
re-enactor, just extremely interested in the period and am currently
making and researching my first dresses of that era for a costume
presentation.  Now I Can't wait!!!  I live in Maryland--and will probably
drive up alone, since it is only about 2 hours, I think.  I"d love to
hear from any of you ladies attending who might be interested in sharing
a hotel room for the duration of the conference (I will probably go up
early and do workshops on both Thurs. and Fri.), since we all need to
economize these days.

I am very excited to attend this event, it was a very easy decision once
I read the conference booklet and saw what they were offering..

Yours in costuming, Lisa A
   
On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:21:21 -0400 "Lists" 
writes:
> Please excuse the cross-posting to those who are members of multiple 
> lists.
> 
> Genteel Arts is pleased to announce registration is now open for the 
> 17th
> Annual Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference. The Conference 
> will be
> held on March 3-6, 2011 in Harrisburg, PA. We have planned a full 
> schedule
> of presentations and pre-conference workshops/tours of interest to 
> men and
> women. The Conference also features extensive displays of original 
> garments,
> a needlework competition, a juried Marketplace and a formal ball. 
> 
> Complete details including a registration form is available on our 
> web site
> at www.genteelarts.com   
> 
> Registration is also open for the 2011 classes hosted by The Genteel 
> Arts
> Academy. Scroll down the page for dates and descriptions. 
> 
> We hope that you can join us in 2011!
> 
> Carolann Schmitt
> cschm...@genteelarts.com
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Land of Oz
If you don't find anything else, this is what I put my son in when we did a 
wool demo at a living history park


Mandarin collared men's shirt, cut a little big, in a solid color or 
pinstripe. You may be able to find this in RTW.  Loose cut men's trousers, 
in a coarse weave if possible. Wool trousers may be found at GoodWill or 
similar thrift store.  Hem the pants on the short side and wear plain lace 
up leather boots, ankle high.  Add suspenders, no belt. If you can take the 
belt loops off the pants w/o making holes, that's even better. If you can 
find suspenders with buttons and put buttons on the pants, better yet.


Denise B
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread albertcat






Personally, I'd use a regular shirt maybe take the collar off and replace 
it with a rectangular one (or cut it or fold it into a rectangle) and wear a 
stock (a long rectangle wrapped around the neck) or perhaps even a girl's 
cotton blouse with poofy sleeves with these things done to it. But I'd spend my 
efforts on an 18th century waistcoat to go over the shirt. They are easy to 
make and the patterns made by Simplicity or other commercial companies are not 
dreadfully off the mark. (You wouldn't have to do the real pockets, just the 
flaps). Also, take a pair of plain pants, cut them off to make breeches, using 
the cut off part of the legs to make the knee bands. This is a trick I've used 
often when Q&D was required. The waistcoat can cover the fly... but the lack of 
a half fall is not that much of a problem really. Now you'll need stockings 
(tights) and plain shoes. A buckle with a fake tongue on elastic can cover the 
lacings and make them look more period.


Are there no costume/party rental places within driving distance? What with 
Teabaggers and stuff, colonial things must be in stock.
 
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread albertcat
BTW I know that the time is C1800 but breeches and buckled shoes are 
worn well into the 1830's, especially in rural areas. And also for more 
"formal" activities, like a concert. So that's why I directed you towards 18th 
century stuff. Breeches make an instant "old timey" effect, y'know.





-Original Message-
From: albert...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Sep 1, 2010 11:28 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, 
US Midwest








Personally, I'd use a regular shirt maybe take the collar off and replace 
it 
with a rectangular one (or cut it or fold it into a rectangle) and wear a stock 
(a long rectangle wrapped around the neck) or perhaps even a girl's cotton 
blouse with poofy sleeves with these things done to it. But I'd spend my 
efforts 
on an 18th century waistcoat to go over the shirt. They are easy to make and 
the 
patterns made by Simplicity or other commercial companies are not dreadfully 
off 
the mark. (You wouldn't have to do the real pockets, just the flaps). Also, 
take 
a pair of plain pants, cut them off to make breeches, using the cut off part of 
the legs to make the knee bands. This is a trick I've used often when Q&D was 
required. The waistcoat can cover the fly... but the lack of a half fall is not 
that much of a problem really. Now you'll need stockings (tights) and plain 
shoes. A buckle with a fake tongue on elastic can cover the lacings and make 
them look more period.


Are there no costume/party rental places within driving distance? What with 
Teabaggers and stuff, colonial things must be in stock.
 
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Robin Netherton
This is all really useful! I've been having a terrible time finding good 
images online because the "costume" sources all seem to focus on East Coast 
"Colonial" or all-leather "Daniel Boone" styles with not much in between. I 
will need to take time for a slow perusal through art and such, but time is 
just what I don't have right now.


Great idea from Denise about a mandarin collared shirt, which may save me the 
trouble of making new. (I hate sewing for a growing boy who will outgrow it 
before the next year's event!) Goodwill, here I come.


A look at photos from previous events at the site in question shows lots of 
breeches like Albert described. I can modify a pair of my kid's outgrown khaki 
pants for these. A couple of questions for those of you who've done it: First, 
how low do I cut them off? I'm thinking below the knee, maybe by a couple of 
inches; he'll need to be sitting when he performs and needs freedom of 
movement, and I don't want them binding at the knee when he bends his leg. 
Second, how best to fasten the band at the bottom of the pants leg? With a 
button (what type?) or something else?


I'm thinking on the line of girls' plain white kneesocks to cover the calf, 
unless someone tells me otherwise. Shoes, I'm probably stuck with the black 
athletics unless there are moccasins or boots in the right size at Goodwill, 
but I can get away with the shoes; any attempt at costume will be welcome, and 
it's not a strict re-enactment.


--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Kathryn Pinner
White soccer socks will fit him better than girls knee socks and will stay up 
better.  Even loafers or docksiders (or slippers) are better than athletic 
shoes 


Kate Pinner

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 12:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, 
US Midwest

This is all really useful! I've been having a terrible time finding good images 
online because the "costume" sources all seem to focus on East Coast "Colonial" 
or all-leather "Daniel Boone" styles with not much in between. I will need to 
take time for a slow perusal through art and such, but time is just what I 
don't have right now.

Great idea from Denise about a mandarin collared shirt, which may save me the 
trouble of making new. (I hate sewing for a growing boy who will outgrow it 
before the next year's event!) Goodwill, here I come.

A look at photos from previous events at the site in question shows lots of 
breeches like Albert described. I can modify a pair of my kid's outgrown khaki 
pants for these. A couple of questions for those of you who've done it: First, 
how low do I cut them off? I'm thinking below the knee, maybe by a couple of 
inches; he'll need to be sitting when he performs and needs freedom of 
movement, and I don't want them binding at the knee when he bends his leg. 
Second, how best to fasten the band at the bottom of the pants leg? With a 
button (what type?) or something else?

I'm thinking on the line of girls' plain white kneesocks to cover the calf, 
unless someone tells me otherwise. Shoes, I'm probably stuck with the black 
athletics unless there are moccasins or boots in the right size at Goodwill, 
but I can get away with the shoes; any attempt at costume will be welcome, and 
it's not a strict re-enactment.

--Robin
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[h-cost] Out of the Office

2010-09-01 Thread mmbennett
Thank you for contacting ETCP!  I am out of the office enjoying the Hill 
Country in Texas.  I will have limited access to email.  If you have an 
emergency, please contact David Sam - d...@esta.org or 212.244.1505.
Meredith


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[h-cost] Stuart Peachey talk

2010-09-01 Thread Kate Bunting
I've just come back from the Sealed Knot's August Bank Holiday muster at Basing 
House (the ruins of a large house in Hampshire which was owned by a Catholic 
nobleman and was besieged by the Parliamentarians during 1663-4). On the Sunday 
evening Stuart Peachey, the expert on 17th century life, gave a talk on 
lower-class 17th century costume. He spoke without amplification in a crowded 
beer tent, but I was (literally) sitting at his feet so I could hear very well.

Someone on the Martin Luther thread mentioned front-opening skirts. This is a 
century later, of course, but Stuart told us that 17th century working women 
commonly wore a sleeveless front-opening gown, and always covered it with an 
apron (practical or decorative) to hide the part of the opening below the waist.

Other points of interest:-

Contemporary illustrations, even when supposedly portraying an incident of 
known date, can't be relied on for costume details of a specific decade. Often 
the same figure with minor changes appears in prints or woodcuts from different 
dates and even different countries. The woman with a broad-brimmed hat and a 
muffler http://www.learnnc.org/lp/multimedia/6851 appears, on foot and on 
horseback, in numerous pictures.

No evidence has been found that 17th century coifs had a gathered projection at 
the back; it's thought that this appearance is derived from tying a tape round 
the "bun" of hair over the coif to hold it in place.

I asked about drawstring necks on women's shifts, which we have discussed here. 
Stuart confirmed that there was no evidence for these; the gathers were sewn to 
a neckband.


Kate Bunting

Librarian & 17th century reenactor.


_
The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the 
right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in 
error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any 
concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk.
The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy
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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

2010-09-01 Thread Emily Gilbert
If you have a General catalog, I'd love to see that!  I have an old 
Patterns catalog, but I've been kicking myself that I never followed 
through on my vague thoughts of sending away for a General one. 


Emily


Franchesca wrote:

Yep, they are actually directing folks to them as you email them.

I got part of one order in with them so far.

I have the other catalogs as well and am willing to scan them and put them
in the h-costume archives that I have (i.e. the really old ones) if folks
would like that.

Let me know. :)

Franchesca 



  

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Beteena Paradise
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 2:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

Thank you!





From: Lorri 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Tue, August 31, 2010 6:41:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amazon Dry Goods going out of business!

Hopefully this will help a few of you...

A few days ago in one of my LJ communities, the announcement of Amazon
was
made...someone was kind enough to scan a few pages...

I think this is an open community so you can go directly to the link:
http://community.livejournal.com/steamfashion/2774559.html
If not...you can see the name of the community: Steamfashion and the
date of the
post was on 8/26.

Lorri
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Re: [h-cost] Stuart Peachey talk

2010-09-01 Thread Cherylyn Crill
"No evidence has been found that 17th century coifs had a gathered projection 
at the back; it's thought that this appearance is derived from tying a tape 
round the "bun" of hair over the coif to hold it in place."
 
A demonstration of this (from the late 16th C) can be found here:
 
http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html

--- On Wed, 9/1/10, Kate Bunting  wrote:


From: Kate Bunting 
Subject: [h-cost] Stuart Peachey talk
To: "h-costume@mail.indra.com" 
Date: Wednesday, September 1, 2010, 10:25 AM


I've just come back from the Sealed Knot's August Bank Holiday muster at Basing 
House (the ruins of a large house in Hampshire which was owned by a Catholic 
nobleman and was besieged by the Parliamentarians during 1663-4). On the Sunday 
evening Stuart Peachey, the expert on 17th century life, gave a talk on 
lower-class 17th century costume


  
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread albertcat


 First, how low do I cut them off? 






Have him put the pants on, sit, and then mark where they come to just below the 
knee. Sometimes you have to piece the knee bands because what you cut off the 
pants isn't long enough to get the knee measurement out of in one piece but 
the band only needs to be 1" wide by the knee measurement and an overlap, 
finished (3" x knee measurement + some overlap...so it's folded in half plus 
seam allowance and don't forget allowance on the pants when you cut them 
short! You only need a 1/2" seam allowance, maybe only a 1/4"). A hook and 
bar...like a flat skirt hook, is a good unnoticeable closure. You'll have to 
open up the outseam a little too so as to get his foot and calf through. 
When you write it down like this, it all seems so complicated, but it's not.
I'd see what kind of tights you can find in the women's dept for covering the 
calves. They stay up, and some even look like ribbed socks. Make sure they 
aren't sheer


You might find some moccasins with the bedroom shoes in the men's dept.
 
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[h-cost] Out of the Office

2010-09-01 Thread mmbennett
Thank you for contacting ETCP!  I am out of the office enjoying the Hill 
Country in Texas.  I will have limited access to email.  If you have an 
emergency, please contact David Sam - d...@esta.org or 212.244.1505.
Meredith


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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread albertcat







It also occurs to me that while you're at Goodwill, you might find a man's 
waistcoat (might have to get the whole suit) that you can quickly take up CB 
and at the sides to fit him snugly, but will be long enough so there is no gap 
showing shirt above the breeches. Braces help a lot with that, and clip-ons 
will do if they are under a waistcoat.
 
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On 9/1/2010 12:55 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote:


When you write it down like this, it all seems so complicated, but it's not.


No, it's perfect, I got it on first reading. Thanks.


I'd see what kind of tights you can find in the women's dept for covering the 
calves. They stay up, and some even look like ribbed socks. Make sure they 
aren't sheer


It's still pretty hot out here, and I'd think tights would not only be hot, 
but be uncomfortable for a teenaged boy who's never worn them! I'll give 
kneesocks a try and see if they stay up -- particularly if I can get them long 
enough to go over the knee. And then tights if necessary.



You might find some moccasins with the bedroom shoes in the men's dept.


Oh, good idea. Thanks for all!

--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On 9/1/2010 11:20 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote:

White soccer socks will fit him better than girls knee socks and will stay up 
better.  Even loafers or docksiders (or slippers) are better than athletic shoes


Brilliant on all counts, thanks!

--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin
>
>  It's still pretty hot out here, and I'd think tights would not only be
>> hot, but be uncomfortable for a teenaged boy who's never worn them! I'll
>> give kneesocks a try and see if they stay up -- particularly if I can get
>> them long enough to go over the knee. And then tights if necessary.
>
>
For the record, I lent my own over-the-knee socks to my boyfriend a couple
of times to wear with knee breeches. They work fine, especially if the band
of the breeches goes over the socks and is tight enough to hold them in
place.
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread costumrs
Check a western store/outdoor outfitter.  They might have moccasins.
Sandy

-Original Message-
>From: Robin Netherton 
>Sent: Sep 1, 2010 1:51 PM
>To: Historical Costume 
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, 
>US Midwest
>
>On 9/1/2010 11:20 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote:
>> White soccer socks will fit him better than girls knee socks and will stay 
>> up better.  Even loafers or docksiders (or slippers) are better than 
>> athletic shoes
>
>Brilliant on all counts, thanks!
>
>--Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Need help on quick solution for boy's clothing, c. 1800, US Midwest

2010-09-01 Thread Carol Kocian

Hi Robin,

 If he's working class, long trousers would be fine. I  
understand going with breeches since that reads more as a historic  
costume.


 Stockings: get black stockings and black shoes. I know in the  
1770s, servants wore colored stockings. Possibly they looked cleaner  
than white. :-)


 If you have black shoes and black stockings, neither will be  
emphasized so you don't have to worry so much about them being good.


 I think the neckstock is a great idea, and that way you don't  
have to worry at all about the collar on the shirt. I don't agree  
about a mandarin collar, since shirts of the time had collars. But  
it's moot if he has a neck stock.  :-)


 -Carol


On Sep 1, 2010, at 12:07 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

This is all really useful! I've been having a terrible time finding  
good images online because the "costume" sources all seem to focus  
on East Coast "Colonial" or all-leather "Daniel Boone" styles with  
not much in between. I will need to take time for a slow perusal  
through art and such, but time is just what I don't have right now.


Great idea from Denise about a mandarin collared shirt, which may  
save me the trouble of making new. (I hate sewing for a growing boy  
who will outgrow it before the next year's event!) Goodwill, here I  
come.


A look at photos from previous events at the site in question shows  
lots of breeches like Albert described. I can modify a pair of my  
kid's outgrown khaki pants for these. A couple of questions for  
those of you who've done it: First, how low do I cut them off? I'm  
thinking below the knee, maybe by a couple of inches; he'll need to  
be sitting when he performs and needs freedom of movement, and I  
don't want them binding at the knee when he bends his leg. Second,  
how best to fasten the band at the bottom of the pants leg? With a  
button (what type?) or something else?


I'm thinking on the line of girls' plain white kneesocks to cover  
the calf, unless someone tells me otherwise. Shoes, I'm probably  
stuck with the black athletics unless there are moccasins or boots  
in the right size at Goodwill, but I can get away with the shoes;  
any attempt at costume will be welcome, and it's not a strict re- 
enactment.


--Robin


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