Re: [h-cost] Sampler
If it's clothing, and not stage, costuming (because a lot of these would be pointless for most stage costuming), what about: * Different styles of buttonhole in different weights of cloth (sheers, wools, silk) * Gauging on different weights of fabric, and with different stitch lengths/ratios * Single, double, treble, stacked, etc pleating through a folded edge and whipping to a waistband * Installing hem facings, hem tapes * Narrow-hemming by hand * Double corded piping and two-color piping/binding * Stroked gathering * Setting flounces with a corded header * Working with bias, bias folds, etc * Tucks (pin tuck sets, release tucks, narrow tucks, deep sewn folds that mimic flouncing on skirts) * Covering buttons of various sizes with different types of cloth and making thread/fabric shanks Regards, Elizabeth Clark The Sewing Academy Main Site The Sewing Academy "Historic Clothing Tech Support" Forum ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long)
Well, I'd add samples of: Knife and box pleats The different kinds of hems Methods of attaching lace and braid When I spent my first semester in a college's couture sewing course, doing nothing but producing a notebook of hand-sewing samples, we also had to do samples of several different kinds of basting. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress On 8/16/2011 8:20 PM, Laurie Taylor wrote: Good evening, The semester is about to begin and I've suddenly realized that I need to revise the sample requirements for my Costume Construction class. We have as our textbook, Rebecca Cunningham's Basic Sewing for Costume Construction A Handbook. Long Grove: Waveland Press Inc, 2005. It has a good section of samples, but so many of those are covered in our regular apparel sewing classes, that I don't have many left to require for this class. Beyond Rebecca's sample list, I'm thinking of these: Hand-worked eyelets Cartridge pleating Piped bindings - the piping/binding/facing combo often used on ballet bodices There have to be other options that I'm not remembering. Anybody have any suggestions? Below, I'm including the list of samples required in the textbook. Please, if you reply to the list, delete that part for the sake of those who may be getting this as a digest. Thanks! Laurie T. Phoenix 1. Hand stitches Gathering and Easing by Hand Thread Marking two layers Backstitch Prick Stitch Slip Stitch Slip Basting Hemming Stitch Catch Stitch Overcastting Whipping Stitch Overhand Stitch Pad Stitch Buttonhole Stitch 2. Fasteners Button with patch or small button behind Hooks - metal bars - note directional issue! Hooks - thread loops Hooks - metal loops Snaps Velcro - by hand Hand-worked Eyelets 3. Seams Plain seam Plain seam - top stitched Plane seam - double top stitched Eased seam Lapped seam Single lapped seam Flat-fell seam Welt seam French seam Mock French Corded seam 4. Seam Finishes Overcast edges Zigzagged edges Bound edges Bias tape - neckline Corded edge French bias 5. Special Problems Corners Grading Clipping Curved underarm seam with tape (p.93) Mitered Bindings - outside corner Mitered Bindings - inside corner ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long)
One thing I think would be a good idea would be a detailed description of the different types of fabric. For example, what is the difference between China silk and Shantung? And so forth. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Laurie Taylor Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 8:21 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long) Good evening, The semester is about to begin and I've suddenly realized that I need to revise the sample requirements for my Costume Construction class. We have as our textbook, Rebecca Cunningham's Basic Sewing for Costume Construction A Handbook. Long Grove: Waveland Press Inc, 2005. It has a good section of samples, but so many of those are covered in our regular apparel sewing classes, that I don't have many left to require for this class. Beyond Rebecca's sample list, I'm thinking of these: Hand-worked eyelets Cartridge pleating Piped bindings - the piping/binding/facing combo often used on ballet bodices There have to be other options that I'm not remembering. Anybody have any suggestions? Below, I'm including the list of samples required in the textbook. Please, if you reply to the list, delete that part for the sake of those who may be getting this as a digest. Thanks! Laurie T. Phoenix 1. Hand stitches Gathering and Easing by Hand Thread Marking two layers Backstitch Prick Stitch Slip Stitch Slip Basting Hemming Stitch Catch Stitch Overcastting Whipping Stitch Overhand Stitch Pad Stitch Buttonhole Stitch 2. Fasteners Button with patch or small button behind Hooks - metal bars - note directional issue! Hooks - thread loops Hooks - metal loops Snaps Velcro - by hand Hand-worked Eyelets 3. Seams Plain seam Plain seam - top stitched Plane seam - double top stitched Eased seam Lapped seam Single lapped seam Flat-fell seam Welt seam French seam Mock French Corded seam 4. Seam Finishes Overcast edges Zigzagged edges Bound edges Bias tape - neckline Corded edge French bias 5. Special Problems Corners Grading Clipping Curved underarm seam with tape (p.93) Mitered Bindings - outside corner Mitered Bindings - inside corner ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long)
Thank you Sharon, but our students mostly all take the Textiles class, so I'm not concerned about that. We're a Fashion Design program, and I'm working on starting costume-related coursework because there are more costume-shop jobs in the area than there are apparel production jobs. Costume-specific sewing skills should be helpful for placing students in internships and jobs in those costume shops. Laurie -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sharon Collier Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 12:42 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long) One thing I think would be a good idea would be a detailed description of the different types of fabric. For example, what is the difference between China silk and Shantung? And so forth. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Laurie Taylor Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 8:21 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Techniques - sample suggestions? (long) Good evening, The semester is about to begin and I've suddenly realized that I need to revise the sample requirements for my Costume Construction class. We have as our textbook, Rebecca Cunningham's Basic Sewing for Costume Construction A Handbook. Long Grove: Waveland Press Inc, 2005. It has a good section of samples, but so many of those are covered in our regular apparel sewing classes, that I don't have many left to require for this class. Beyond Rebecca's sample list, I'm thinking of these: Hand-worked eyelets Cartridge pleating Piped bindings - the piping/binding/facing combo often used on ballet bodices There have to be other options that I'm not remembering. Anybody have any suggestions? Below, I'm including the list of samples required in the textbook. Please, if you reply to the list, delete that part for the sake of those who may be getting this as a digest. Thanks! Laurie T. Phoenix 1. Hand stitches Gathering and Easing by Hand Thread Marking two layers Backstitch Prick Stitch Slip Stitch Slip Basting Hemming Stitch Catch Stitch Overcastting Whipping Stitch Overhand Stitch Pad Stitch Buttonhole Stitch 2. Fasteners Button with patch or small button behind Hooks - metal bars - note directional issue! Hooks - thread loops Hooks - metal loops Snaps Velcro - by hand Hand-worked Eyelets 3. Seams Plain seam Plain seam - top stitched Plane seam - double top stitched Eased seam Lapped seam Single lapped seam Flat-fell seam Welt seam French seam Mock French Corded seam 4. Seam Finishes Overcast edges Zigzagged edges Bound edges Bias tape - neckline Corded edge French bias 5. Special Problems Corners Grading Clipping Curved underarm seam with tape (p.93) Mitered Bindings - outside corner Mitered Bindings - inside corner ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Elizabethan trunkhose
I am planning to make a start on some Elizabethan trunkhose and wanted to ask anyone on this list with experience in this area for their help. In my past dealings with these garments there has been a lot of layers of fabric at the waist line and much difficulty sewing through the layers, both by hand and by machine. Are there any ways to reduce this? I have carpal tunnel in my wrists so prefer lighter work, hence why I've avoided these in the past. Crunch time has come and I really need to make a set. I'd like them to look historically accurate on the outside, but in consideration to my wrists I'm happy to consider alternatives inside and out of sight. Many thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
