Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat

[Lauren Walker]

Thank you so much! This really helps!

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net



On Sep 17, 2013, at 7:25 PM, Katy Bishop wrote:

> I found an illustration from the Delineator from 1889, July that shows a
> similar hat, with the same off center wavy brim, from the back, and it
> seems to have a very low crown. Leghorn is a type of straw.
> 
> Katy
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:42 PM, Emily Gilbert wrote:
> 
>> I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion
>> notes for the year, which refer to the "curious and startling" open-crowned
>> coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page),
>> I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown!
>> 
>> Emily
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the
>>> "leghorn flat", since the written description calls it a "flat". (It's Fig.
>>> 2 in the descriptions here.)
>>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**
>>> view=1up;seq=185
>>> 
>>> So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous
>>> interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was
>>> shaped, and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out!
>>> 
>>> The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn
>>> flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits
>>> the wearer's fancy. http://babel.hathitrust.org/**
>>> cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**view=1up;seq=86
>>> 
>>> I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the
>>> definition of "leghorn" seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping
>>> to use millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put.
>>> 
>>> Lauren M. Walker
>>> lauren.wal...@comcast.net
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> 
>>> As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of.
 Also,
 that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat!
 
 
 On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker
 **wrote:
 
 Hi,
> Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm
> recreating
> as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with
> 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's  an 1889 "flat leghorn",
> according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat
> crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one.
> (figure on the right):
> http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**
> view=1up;seq=109
> Any thoughts?
> Thank you!
> (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I
> got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board
> and
> plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full
> project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.)
> 
> Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat
> nightmare.
> Lauren
> 
> 
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.wal...@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>> 
>>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
> Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Victorian flat leghorn hat

[Lauren Walker]

Great catch! Thank you so much! 
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net



On Sep 17, 2013, at 6:42 PM, Emily Gilbert wrote:

> I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion notes 
> for the year, which refer to the "curious and startling" open-crowned coronet 
> bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page), I'd say it's 
> reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown!
> 
> Emily
> 
> 
> On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:
>> Hi,
>> Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the "leghorn 
>> flat", since the written description calls it a "flat". (It's Fig. 2 in the 
>> descriptions here.)
>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185
>> 
>> So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous 
>> interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was shaped, 
>> and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out!
>> 
>> The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn 
>> flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits 
>> the wearer's fancy. 
>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86
>> 
>> I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the definition 
>> of "leghorn" seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping to use 
>> millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put.
>> 
>> Lauren M. Walker
>> lauren.wal...@comcast.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>> 
>>> As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of. Also,
>>> that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hi,
 Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm recreating
 as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with
 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's  an 1889 "flat leghorn",
 according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat
 crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one.
 (figure on the right):
 http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109
 Any thoughts?
 Thank you!
 (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I
 got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board and
 plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full
 project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.)
 
 Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat
 nightmare.
 Lauren
 
 
 Lauren M. Walker
 lauren.wal...@comcast.net
 
 
 
 
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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