[h-cost] Pregnant Tudors

[Kate Cole]

This pregnant Tudor lady is currently on show at the Tate Britain...

http://www.tate.org.uk/servlet/ViewWork?workid=27365&searchid=22478



Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 21:50:50 +0100
From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


I know that recently there was a discussion on images of Tudor ladies
in "pregnant gowns" but I read and dismissed it as interesting not
relevant. Well, it's come back to bite me!! Did anyone keep a file of
the images that they could share please? It is only images that I
need, not the text.

Thanks

suzi




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[h-cost] smell of spiral steel boning

[Kate Cole]

I have a reel of uncut spiral steel boning that I've had for a while, still 
in the bag the shop put it in. I took it out last night because I want to 
use it for a wedding dress I'm making for a friend, but it seems to have a 
really strong, acrid smell to it. I know it will be in a casing and below a 
couple of layers of fabric, but as it's a wedding dress I don't really want 
the bride to be able to smell it! Has anyone else had this problem and is 
there a solution? I don't want to clean it with WD40 or anything, as 
obviously that could leave marks on the fabric. Would it help if I just 
"aired" it?


Any ideas gratefully received.

Kate


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[h-cost] RE: Costume Society Journal

[Kate Cole]

My back issues don't go back that far, but they have a full set in our 
college library and I'll be there tomorrow - I'll take a copy of it and the 
associated info, so if you still need it by tomorrow night, I'll be able to 
help.


Kate



From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Costume Society Journal, No.7 U.K. version
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


If anyone has a copy of the Costume Society Journal number 7, with
the pattern of the boy's 18th century suit,  please could you contact
me - I can't find mine, and I need the pattern slightly urgently!!
(Or at least some information from the pattern.)

Suzi, panicking slightly!




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[h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 273

[Kate Cole]

I love the Margot Leadbetter outfit!

And given your host of piracy pages, I feel compelled to direct you to 
venganza.org, where they are founding a new "religion" partially based on 
the theory that global warming is directly linked to a drop in the number of 
pirates (they have a graph and everything).


And - possibly one of my favourite jokes of all time - the pirate keyboard 
(which I'm sure you've seen before): 
http://www.studio2f.com/misc/images/corsair-thumb.jpg


Kate
(new-ish member, based in Kent - doh!)





Message: 13
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 23:32:30 +
From: "Nicole Kipar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumers in Edinburgh?
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Thank you ever so much for your kind words, Bjarne, Saragrace and Jean. :-)
I do have a little bit to show, even though I didn't have much time for
website updates. That was an understatement, I had no time. Here are some 
of

my latest costumes & evening outfits:

http://www.kipar.org/salacious-historian/sewingprojects.html

Nicole


"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."






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[h-cost] Fans

[Kate Cole]

All this talk of fans has reminded me that "Cool: Presenting a Cooling Image 
- Fans from The Fan Museum and Portraits from the Lafayette Photographic 
Archive at the V&A" is on at the Fan Museum (London, UK) until 26 March, in 
case anyone's interested.


http://www.fan-museum.org/exhibdetails.asp?exhibID=9


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[h-cost] RE: Goldwork

[Kate Cole]

I took a goldwork class at the Royal School of Needlework 
(www.royal-needlework.co.uk) at Hampton Court Palace - an amazing place to 
learn, and about as authentic as it gets. I think they teach somewhere in 
the US for a couple of weeks each spring/summer, too. The Sally Saunders 
book (Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques) is really good and 
has lots of useful basic info. I've got the Jane Lemon book (Metal Thread 
Embroidery), but it's an A-Z format, which I find pretty useless. Lots of 
nice pictures, though.


Kate




Message: 8
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 14:45:55 -0600
From: "E House" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Goldwork
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

I don't waste anywhere near enough money on my sewing (HAH!) so now that I
work for my fabric instead of paying for it, I've decided to add on a nice,
stupidly expensive hobby: I want to get into goldwork!  Specifically, the
sort that would be used for embellishing garments and headwear in the early
16th century.  But being me, I have to be as authentic as I can... and I
really have no idea where to start with the research.

(The best website I've found so far for the type of goldwork I'm interested
in is this, even though she does the modern stuff:
http://www.berlinembroidery.com/bullions.htm
http://www.berlinembroidery.com/goldwork.htm )

Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic
stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique?
I started embroidering when I was 7 or 8, so I do have experience with that
angle of it, but I think a lot of that just doesn't translate.  And it's 
not

the sort of thing where I'd want to spend tons of time experimenting blind,
because even the cheap version of the silly stuff is so expensive per yard.

And is this what was called Or Nue'?

-E House





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[h-cost] RE: Taschen books

[Kate Cole]

I've got the Fashion book, then saw the two-volume set on special offer (I 
think it was 9.99 GBP) at Borders. Despite the fantastic price, I flipped 
through it and saw only a couple of extra pictures that weren't in the 
Fashion book and decided it wasn't worth having both. But of the two, I 
think the two-volume set may be slightly bigger.


I don't see how Borders could sell the two volumes separately as they are 
packed together in a box cover - they probably only list it as the first 
volume for some computer-related reason. But unless they're going to send 
you a box cover with only one book in it, which would be very peculiar 
indeed, I'd bet it's both. Plus, the whole thing was shrink-wrapped in 
Borders - I had to hunt round the whole shop to find one that was open so I 
could look at it.


Hope this helps,

Kate



Message: 10
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 22:03:46 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Fashion book - any difference between
editions?
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

This may have been covered before, but just in case:

Is there any real difference between this edition of the Kyoto Costume
Institute's "Fashion":


And the two volume in a slipcase edition?:


I ask because I've had the former on order with Borders.com for over
two months and it doesn't look like they'll be able to get it. The
first volume of the second edition is listed, but no mention is made
at the Border's site that it includes both volumes. Please advise.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.





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[h-cost] RE: Fancy Dress Described

[Kate Cole]

It was Dickins and Jones on Regent Street that closed recently, not 
Debenhams - Debenhams is alive and well and has branches all over the 
country (Debenhams.com), but is far removed from an old-fashioned department 
store these days.


Interestingly, it's the Designers at Debenhams range - where various 
big-name fashion designers have created affordable collections specifically 
for the store - that has been credited with reviving the company's fortunes, 
as they were in serious trouble a few years back.





--

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:37:27 +
From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress Described
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 14:54 17/02/2006, you wrote:
>Debenham & Freebody were fashion designers for the elite of
>England.  I have a few of their fashion plates in our Library.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com


The store called Debenham's has just recently closed in Regent
Street. I rather think that it was the last remnants of what was a
great store. It had an expensive redesign a few years ago, but never
quite got back to the glory days of the Victorian and Edwardian shops.

Suzi






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[h-cost] RE: Mary Queen of Scots

[Kate Cole]

The British Library has it - you may be able to order copies of the pages 
here:


http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/ENR7GYAJ1T2JAMUDK25VFG5Y6HJ4XG59HTM9K729C91UJQ4E9A-03231?func=full-set-set&set_number=102549&set_entry=01&format=999

Kate


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 17:41:37 -0600
From: Melanie Schuessler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots'
> inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance
> "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.

It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by
  Margaret Swain.

Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France:
catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of
Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.

I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler



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[h-cost] RE: Lots of different replies (most of them OT, sorry)

[Kate Cole]

RE: things to do in London for 12-year-old boys - the London Dungeon 
(www.thedungeons.com) used to be much appreciated in my family, although I 
remember some of our friends finding it too scary. I haven't been there for 
at least 20 years, but it was gruesome in a way that boys in the 70s used to 
enjoy...


Re: white chocolate: "Which is what the previously mentioned house guest 
brings me from London, much to his disgust, as he thinks all white chocolate 
is an abomination ;-) "
IT IS an abomination!! I think white chocolate is pure evil disguised as 
confectionery!!



See some of my doll costumes - mostly Victorian and Elizabethan - here:
http://www.naergilien.info/dollclothing.htm
I mostly make Victorian and Elizabethan clothing - not only dolls - but 
currently I'm about to make a Rococo gown for Tyler,

with stays and panier, of course :-)


Naergi, these are lovely. That Mina outfit with the embroidered leaves has 
always been a favourite of mine and yours is such a sweet reproduction!


Re: Fabulous Fit dress forms - I have one of the ones that you pad to your 
own size/shape, but looking at the website it seems as though they've 
branched out into more fixed-size forms since I bought it. It's not great, 
and I've never been able to get it to stand up straight, which frustrates 
the heck out of me. I find the padding system unsatisfactory, too, because 
you're never going to get it perfect. As soon as I can afford it, I'll be 
buying something else, even if it does have fixed measurements.


Kate


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[h-cost] RE: 16th century and gifts for Brits

[Kate Cole]

> I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems
> to be a gap here in current work :-(


Have you tried contacting the V&A? I'm sure there must be somewhere there 
who specialises in this area.




I was talking to a friend on Friday who mentioned she's had
great success bringing over packages of "Jelly Bellies" jelly beans.
She says you can't get them in Britain (and they actually are quite
good).



Apropos of Hogwarts, I've seen Jelly Bellies packages of "Bertie
Bott's Every Flavor" beans -- though they thoughtfully leave out all
the nasty ones :) Is there really no one doing that in Britain?


You can get Jelly Bellies here now, although I'm not sure how widespread 
they are, and we do have the Hogwarts beans, too.


Someone suggested Hershey's Kisses - I would say don't bother as I have a 
LONG list of people in America to whom I send British chocolate on a regular 
basis because they say it is so much nicer than American chocolate. Having 
tasted US chocolate, I can only agree.


If your hosts are at all interested in fabric or sewing, fabrics are a lot 
cheaper in the US than they are here, so that might be worth exploring.


Kate


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[h-cost] RE: Hogwarts

[Kate Cole]

I was struck at my husband's Postgrad graduation ceremony recently how, in a 
post-Harry Potter world, academic robes now look faintly ridiculous. 
Everyone just looks like a Hufflepuff etc.


Kate



Obligatory costume content: Do you know that Lego people now have little
fabric capes? They are for knights, Hogwarts students, etc.




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[h-cost] RE: Gifts for Brits

[Kate Cole]

Those Ziploc bags sound great... I would definitely like to get my hands on 
some of those.


FWIW, my mother always comes back from America and/or Australia with a 
year's supply of what we call clingfilm - it's Glad Wrap in Australia, might 
be the same in the US. Apparently other countries' clingfilm is much better 
than ours...


Interesting foodie things always go down well with me - and wine.

Kate


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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 16:09:32 -0600
From: Karen R Bergquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More OT: to Brits (WAS: Seriously off topic -
needadvice)
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I will be traveling to England in early February and I was wondering if
Our Cousins Across The Pond had the new Ziploc Big Bags? They are
super-sized zip-loc bags with an reinforced integral handle (the XL are
2ft X 1.7ft). I've found them to be excellent for storing large chunks of
fabric as well as keeping completed costumes clean and dust free. I was
thinking that my hosts might like them, but if they are common Across The
Pond then there's little point in bringing them over.

Karen
Seamstrix





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[h-cost] RE: Henry VIII

[Kate Cole]

This quote from Helena Bonham Carter is from an interview with her on the 
PBS website:


"I was pregnant during filming, making dressing up in the lavish costumes 
required for a Tudor queen no mean feat! It's not exactly suitable maternity 
wear! But the corsets gave some continuity while I got bigger each week. 
Luckily they are not too tight or I may have ended up with a baby with a 
flat head!


Some of the costumes were re-cut up to four times during filming. The 
dresses were designed with longer bodices than typical Tudor dresses to 
distract from the waistline and the lacings were placed at the backsides for 
ease and comfort."


Kate



Message: 4
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:31:48 -0700
From: Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham
Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down
from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making
her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's
silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who
can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the
actress's own shape (on the busty side)?

Sylrog





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[h-cost] RE: MacCulloch and Wallis

[Kate Cole]

Thank you so much for posting that, Suzi - I find the staff in the shop very 
intimidating, so it will be great to order via the safe distance of the 
internet!


Kate



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 22:42:22 +
From: Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to
know that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online
catalogue and ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If
anyone has problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on
the information.

www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)




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[h-cost] RE: 1880s Hamburg edging

[Kate Cole]

I don't know if this will help at all, but these definitions are from The 
Dictionary of Needlework (1882):


Hamburg Point - a lace made at Hamburg by Protestant French refugees, after 
the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The lace is now obsolete, but was a 
description of Drawn Work, like that described in Dresden Point.


Dresden Point - [much historical info about Germany and lace removed 
here]... Dresden became celebrated during the last part of the seventeenth 
century and for the whole of the eighteenth not for a Pillow lace, but for a 
Drawn lace, an imitation of the Italian Punto Tirato, in which a piece of 
linen was converted into lace by some of its threads being drawn away, some 
retained to form a pattern, and others worked together to form square 
meshes. This Dresden Point was likewise embroidered with fine stitchery, and 
was largely bought by the wealthy during the time of its excellence.



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[h-cost] RE: keyword spamming

[Kate Cole]

With regards to the conversation a couple of weeks ago on keyword spamming 
on eBay, I wonder how this monstrosity, which looks NOTHING like anything 
even vaguely Austen-related, slipped through the net: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8362341194

Perhaps the solution is to spell Jane Austen wrong?!

(By the way, hello, I've been lurking for ages but couldn't post because my 
e-mail turns everything into HTML - think I've finally worked it out 
though).



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