Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I suppose people could say what they are working on. As soon as I can get free for the holidays I have a 1929 dress (great cotton printed sateen with double bias tape trim) and felt cloche hat to make. I'm doing a historical presentation the first week of February on Eddie and Sugar Lou's Hotel Tyler Orchestra, a great little hot jazz band here in East Texas. They recorded in Dallas (you can hear them online) and played on a Shreveport radio station. Both come from very interesting African-American families. The local historical society loves the dress-up aspect. The last outfit was a World War I Red Cross ensemble which I'll be wearing again when I am one of the "spirits" at our oldest cemetery in April. Vicki Betts Tyler, Texas ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Mine's wearing an almost finished (just needs buttons and buttonholes) summer cotton lawn 1918 dress, based on the Armistice Blouse. My head is wearing a broad-brimmed hat that I made from scratch, covered with cream colored silk georgette. The crown is a little taller than what we would usually see now, and the silk georgette on the crown is underlined with some cream silk organza that I had to give it a slightly puffy but not limp top. The hat is trimmed with ribbon and two types of feathers. While the dress is a soft green with a cream and brown vine pattern, the Votes For Women sash is bright golden yellow. I'm going to be a middle-aged suffragette with a petition at our next ghost tour of our old cemetery next April. Oh, and cream stockings, white gloves (the dress has white cuffs and collar), my grandmother's purse, and a pair of 1930s lace up sensible shoes. I couldn't come up with any good reproduction shoes for the late teens. The two styles that I saw recommended had been discontinued. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The new Anna Karenina
I will be interested in everyone's take on Lincoln which opens today nationwide. Vicki - This new version seems to have a stark embellished look. I'll probably see it anyway since it's been too long since I've seen a costume film. Any other period films coming out? Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Stockings for 1917
I'm outside my usual area of 19th century clothing. What kind of stockings would be worn with a 1917 lawn day dress? It falls about mid-calf, and will be worn with lace-up oxford type shoes. Thanks! Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stockings for 1917
Thanks for everyone's input. I should have told you that I'll be a middle-aged woman, small town (15,000 population in hot Texas) but upper class and well-traveled, a suffragette who has campaigned in Austin and Washington, DC. The dress is really nice green lawn with a stylized cream and dark brown vertical ivy motif. The top of the dress is the Armistice blouse but the collar and cuffs are cut from a white linen table runner with drawn threads. I attached a mid-calf skirt and I'm using a self fabric belt with an oval mother of pearl(ish) pass through buckle about five inches top to bottom and maybe two inches side to side. I'm planning on a cream silk georgette broad brimmed hat, deep crown, with feathers. I tried to get some shoes with a double buttoned strap, but I'm settling for a pair of oxford type shoes, dark brown to almost black. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
As soon as I get one more research project finished and emailed I'll be tackling a 1918 dress based on Folkwear's Armistice blouse, only with 3/4 sleeves. Probably three wide tucks in the skirt. Draped across my dressmaker's dummy is a piece of green lawn with ecru and dark brown stylized vines running lengthwise, a modern white linen table runner with drawn thread design that I'll be cutting up for the collar, a wonderful vintage faux mother of pearl pass through oval buckle about four inches tall and 1 1/2 inches wide for which I'll make a self-fabric belt, a piece of ecru silk georgette to cover a broad brimmed hat), and various trims to try once the hat is made. I can't decide on feathers or flowers. Ecru shoes with double faux buttoned straps are on order. Not sure of proper stockings. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life
I called the bookstore and ordered it. Vicki Betts ~ Subject: Re: [h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life It looks really nice, where can one order the book, or does one just email the bookstore? Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life
http://www.kent.edu/museum/exhibits/exhibitdetail.cfm?customel_datapageid_22 03427=2514745 http://kentstateuniversitymuseum.wordpress.com/ Today I received in the mail the exhibit catalog for Kent State University Museum's exhibit On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life. The exhibit runs September 30, 2011-August 26, 2012. The 35 page paperback catalog costs $7.95 each before tax and postage. It focuses on the daily life and experiences of the American civilian population during the Civil War and in the years immediately following. The pieces on exhibit, including women's and children's costumes, supplemented with related photographs, decorative arts and women's magazines, are organized thematically...concentrates on the material circumstances of the North, particularly around Ohio. Includes: Blue and black striped dress, late 1860s, sheer white cotton with blue and black striped bodice, skirt, apron, and bow Jacket of Civil War uniform, ca. 1863, US colonel in coast artillery Striped day dress, ca. 1862, wool/linen blend skirt and bodice trimmed with black braid Child's red dress, 1860s, wool, black braid along cuffs and hem Woman's jacket, 1860s, black plus with braid trim and quilted cotton lining Union military coat, Brooks Brothers, 1861-1865 Blue silk dress, ca. 1865, silk taffeta with glass beaded fringe, shown with wool paisley shawl Evening dress with burnous, English, ivory silk skirt and bodice and bodice with salmon-colored wheat sheaves (not show well due to featured burnous), ivory wool wrap with quilted satin, including closeup of inside of hood Black lace wrap, early 1860s; tan taffeta skirt; sheer pinstriped cotton blouse (not show well because the the featured silk wrap) Brown velvet cape, ca. 1860, velvet cape with embroidery and fringe; worn over brown plaid day dress, silk taffeta trimmed with fringe (skirt only shown due to featured cape) Evening dress with warp printed flowers, ca. 1860, ivory silk; detail of laced up back and ruched ribbon trim around neckline Purple plaid dress, late 1860s, silk taffeta bodice, skirt, and overdress with brocaded floral accents; detail of back CDV of two children; cabinet card of federal officer Hair bracelet with gold locket containing picture of Lourens W. Wolcott Illustration of hair ornaments from Godey's Hair jewelry ca. 1870--brooch and pendant made from Emma Pierce's hair for Fanny V. Sackett Silk quilt attributed to Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley, with raised eagle and flower motifs, fabrics may be from Mary Todd Lincoln's dresses--complete photo and detail of center Cage crinoline ca. 1865--elliptical Corset ca. 1865, cotton (19 inch waist); illustrations from La Mode Illustree Drawers, 1865-1866; illustrations from La Mode Illustree Corset cover and petticoat, 1868 Two more views of blue and black striped dress mentioned first (it's also on the cover) Ca. 1860 dress, white cotton with plum and red zigzag and floral patterns White cotton seersucker blouse, 1860s, with purple windowpane check dress, silk taffeta bodice and skirt, cut similar to a Swiss belt with shoulder straps, shown from thigh up Sheer white cotton ball gown with blue satin sash, early 1860s Indigo dress, mid 1860s, indigo cotton with resist printed leaf motif Child's dress, 1860s, white cotton dress with small floral print accented with pink cotton edged with white braid CDV of two young sisters CDV of couple (opposite section on weddings--she's not wearing a white dress but is wearing a white floral headpiece) Brown wedding dress, Ca. 1860, wool with floral print. (um--looks like the bride was probably on the road to Boston) Wedding dress, 1868, cotton gauze bodice and skirt, silk satin belt, includes close up of front from knees up, plus full length of back Ivory wedding dress and slippers, 1861, dress shown from back, hip up Jacket of Civil War uniform--detail--black broadcloth and brass eagle button This catalog is well worth the money. If anyone knows of a similar exhibit for the southern states, would you please post the information? Vicki Betts Tyler, TX ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life
Sorry everyone! Let me try again! Vicki -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Vicki Betts Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 8:51 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life http://www.kent.edu/museum/exhibits/exhibitdetail.cfm?customel_datapageid_22 03427=2514745 http://kentstateuniversitymuseum.wordpress.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life
(Trying again) http://www.kent.edu/museum/exhibits/exhibitdetail.cfm?customel_datapageid_22 03427=2514745 http://kentstateuniversitymuseum.wordpress.com/ Today I received in the mail the catalog for Kent State University Museum's exhibit On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life. The exhibit runs September 30, 2011-August 26, 2012. The 35 page paperback catalog costs $7.95 each before tax and postage. It focuses on the daily life and experiences of the American civilian population during the Civil War and in the years immediately following. The pieces on exhibit, including women's and children's costumes, supplemented with related photographs, decorative arts and women's magazines, are organized thematically...concentrates on the material circumstances of the North, particularly around Ohio. Includes: Blue and black striped dress, late 1860s, sheer white cotton with blue and black striped bodice, skirt, apron, and bow--- Jacket of Civil War uniform, ca. 1863, US colonel in coast artillery--- Striped day dress, ca. 1862, wool/linen blend skirt and bodice trimmed with black braid--- Child's red dress, 1860s, wool, black braid along cuffs and hem--- Woman's jacket, 1860s, black plus with braid trim and quilted cotton lining--- Union military coat, Brooks Brothers, 1861-1865--- Blue silk dress, ca. 1865, silk taffeta with glass beaded fringe, shown with wool paisley shawl--- Evening dress with burnous, English, ivory silk skirt and bodice and bodice with salmon-colored wheat sheaves (not show well due to featured burnous), ivory wool wrap with quilted satin, including closeup of inside of hood--- Black lace wrap, early 1860s; tan taffeta skirt; sheer pinstriped cotton blouse (not show well because the the featured silk wrap)--- Brown velvet cape, ca. 1860, velvet cape with embroidery and fringe; worn over brown plaid day dress, silk taffeta trimmed with fringe (skirt only shown due to featured cape)--- Evening dress with warp printed flowers, ca. 1860, ivory silk; detail of laced up back and ruched ribbon trim around neckline--- Purple plaid dress, late 1860s, silk taffeta bodice, skirt, and overdress with brocaded floral accents; detail of back--- CDV of two children; cabinet card of federal officer--- Hair bracelet with gold locket containing picture of Lourens W. Wolcott--- Illustration of hair ornaments from Godey's--- Hair jewelry ca. 1870--brooch and pendant made from Emma Pierce's hair for Fanny V. Sackett--- Silk quilt attributed to Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley, with raised eagle and flower motifs, fabrics may be from Mary Todd Lincoln's dresses--complete photo and detail of center--- Cage crinoline ca. 1865--elliptical--- Corset ca. 1865, cotton (19 inch waist); illustrations from La Mode Illustree--- Drawers, 1865-1866; illustrations from La Mode Illustree--- Corset cover and petticoat, 1868--- Two more views of blue and black striped dress mentioned first (it's also on the cover)--- Ca. 1860 dress, white cotton with plum and red zigzag and floral patterns--- White cotton seersucker blouse, 1860s, with purple windowpane check dress, silk taffeta bodice and skirt, cut similar to a Swiss belt with shoulder straps, shown from thigh up--- Sheer white cotton ball gown with blue satin sash, early 1860s --- Indigo dress, mid 1860s, indigo cotton with resist printed leaf motif--- Child's dress, 1860s, white cotton dress with small floral print accented with pink cotton edged with white braid--- CDV of two young sisters--- CDV of couple (opposite section on weddings--she's not wearing a white dress but is wearing a white floral headpiece)--- Brown wedding dress, Ca. 1860, wool with floral print. (um--looks like the bride was probably on the road to Boston)--- Wedding dress, 1868, cotton gauze bodice and skirt, silk satin belt, includes close up of front from knees up, plus full length of back--- Ivory wedding dress and slippers, 1861, dress shown from back, hip up Jacket of Civil War uniform--detail--black broadcloth and brass eagle button ~~ This catalog is well worth the money. If anyone knows of a similar exhibit for the southern states, would you please post the information? Vicki Betts Tyler, TX ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
She's wearing the 1915 traveling suit, pattern by Folkwear, in pine green wool gabardine. Her Metropolitan Hat is in matching wool, with two matching silk taffeta rosettes. She's got a new pair of black lace up boots at her feet with black stockings and garters stuffed in them, and a bright Kansas sunflower gold satin sash across her chest that says Votes for Women. I'm giving a presentation next Tuesday on the suffragettes of Smith County, Texas. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 100 Years of East London Style in 100 seconds
As posted on Cliopatria: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JxfgId3XTs Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Eau de indigo
There's a great little story that comes out from the beginning of the American Civil War, when wearing homespun was the height of Confederate patriotism: The young ladies were all preparing for a grand ball, that was soon to be given, and four of them were going to wear homespun dresses. . . The four girls were sewing on their dresses, vile-smelling, common checked goods, such as we used for our servants at that time. They were making them with long trains, low neck and short sleeves, and the lace they were trimming them with was Pointe de Alencon, Honiton and Valenciennes, suitable for the dress of a duchess at a court ball. . . When the ball came off the girls looked as lovely as when in satin and lace, for the dresses fitted their perfect figures to a charm. One of the young men who had danced with all the four came to me, and taking me to one side, asked in a hollow whisper: Miss Lizzie, what in heaven's name is it that smells so awfully about those girls? Why, it is a new perfume they are using, I said. They call it patriotism; I call it indigo dye. Oh, he said, it is the dresses; why didn't they wash them? It is a horrid smell. I told the girls about it, and when they got home they were a beautiful blue all about their necks, and they hardly allowed the word homespun ever to be uttered to them until we really had to make it at home and wear it. Source: Elizabeth Lyle Saxon, A Southern Woman's War-Time Reminiscences. Memphis: Pilcher Printing co., 1905, pp. 18, 22, http://sunsite.unc.edu/docsouth/saxon/saxon.htm. Vicki Betts --- I don't know if indigo per se stinks, but it used to be common to use urine in preparing the dye solution. When I was studying textile arts some of the students were doing it and they said the process really stank, also the fabric stank until well washed Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
If it is the same person that was there several years back, she did an excellent job of weaving some of my own hair to put into an antique brooch that had no hair in it at all when I bought it. (I wouldn't have taken out original hair to put my own in.) Luckily I have past my waist length hair so I only had to send her a little, because it went a long way. Vicki Betts Lisa - There will be a merchant in the Marketplace at the 1860s Conference that makes very nice reproduction hair jewelry. Regards, Carolann Schmitt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Civil war era work dress
If you would like to see an original Civil War era homespun dress, please see: http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/furr_homespun_dress.htm Vicki Betts Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought As I am brand new to this time period, do I just google Civil War dress, or 1860, or what? Katheryne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Another Historical Wedding Question
Here's an American marriage by telegraph! SAVANNAH [GA] REPUBLICAN, February 21, 1863, p. 1, c. 3 Marrying by Telegraph.--On the 6th of February, a marriage ceremony was performed by the Rev. Wm. Carr, chaplain of the 4th regiment N. Y. S. V., under rather novel circumstances, the clergyman and bridegroom being in the city of Washington, and the bride in the village of Fulton, Oswego county, N. Y., during the ceremony. The bridegroom is a member of the 4th regiment, and circumstances prevented his being in Fulton to fulfill his engagement with the young lady. By mail, the parties agreed to have a ceremony performed through the medium of the electric telegraph. The Oswego Times says: The day and hour having been arranged, the parties repaired to the telegraph office at the respective stations, the fair bride accompanied by a female friend as bridesmaid. The gentlemanly operator at Fulton officiated as bridesman. The first despatch over the wire relating to the affair was from Washington, inquiring if the lady was present? An answer in the affirmative was returned, and the ceremony proceeded. Three messages were sent to Fulton and two transmitted to Washington, and the ceremony was completed. The last message from Washington was the declaration of the clergyman pronouncing the parties man and wife. Vicki Betts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello! I am doing some digging around for rules concerning types of marriage in the British Empire in the 1870's. A Google search for British Common Law Marriage got me a Wikipedia entry that had a reference that mentions Marriage By Correspondence (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marriage_in_the_United_Kingdom#Scotlan). However, I have been unable to find any other mention of it. Do any of you have any more information about Marriage By Correspondence? Henry Osier Chief Spy Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010 www.CC28.org View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/ Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
Location: Tyler, Texas, 100 miles east of Dallas, one of the many buckles of the Bible Belt. Penny Ladnier wrote: 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured All through high school, fall 1969-spring 1972. Skirts were supposed to touch the ground when a girl was on her knees. However, I don't recall anyone being asked to kneel to test it. I think most of our girls rolled up their skirts--that made it easier to let them down immediately if necessary. There was one assistant principal particularly concerned about whether or not girls wore bras, but that's another story. 2. Girls' pants: When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school. Pants-suits, hiphuggers? Pantsuits--top matches bottom, often in double knit, were allowed my junior year--1970/1971. Jeans were allowed my senior year--1971/1972. My big rebellion was wearing jeans to honors assembly and to get my valedictorian photo taken for the yearbook. Okay, so I wasn't much of a rebel despite the fact that we WERE the Robert E. Lee Rebels until midway into our senior year. I don't recall hiphuggers being a problem. I had a pair in junior high, even if I couldn't wear them to school just because they were pants. 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair You would have to define long. Our Mr. Robert E. Lee had hair past the collar and he got by with it. About the same time, however, a hair court case involving our local junior college went all of the way to the Supreme Court, with a ruling in favor of the student. 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed Mr. Robert E. Lee also had a mustache, which was much envied by many of the other senior boys, because they couldn't have sported a noticeable mustache if they tried! Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Asbestos in clothing
Here's an earlier reference to asbestos in clothing: ALBANY [GA] PATRIOT, December 12, 1861, p. 2, c. 2 Water-Proof clothing--Asbestos. We are pleased to learn that Messrs. Golueke Wilson, of Washington, Wilkes county, Ga., are manufacturing a light and pliable cloth which is said to be impervious to water, and serve as a substitute for the ordinary, but more costly India Rubber cloth, and is said to be admirably adopted to camp service. There is another article which seems to be forgotten and almost entirely out of use, which may be worked to advantage in the manufacture of soldiers cloth and articles of clothing of similar use. We refer to a mineral called Asbestus, [sic] and which may be found in abundant beds both in Southern Tennessee and Northern Georgia. This article, if we mistake not, when properly manufactured, or woven into cloth, will prove a most excellent article for soldiers use, for travelling purposes, and especially for firemens clothing. It is both water-proof and fire-proof. An instance is recorded wherein a fireman clothed in a tissue made of this substance, with a proper hood as a covering for his head, was surrounded by a flame of fire and remained in this position for ninety seconds. His pulse during this time rose from 72 to 152. Another fireman repeated the experiment, and remained in contact with the flames for 3 minutes and 47 seconds. It was formerly used for shrouds for burying the dead, and may now be used as a valuable article for lining fire-proof safes, and serve a better purpose than the ordinary fire-proof paint for covering houses. In short, it can be woven into thread and manufactured into goods for many valuable and useful purposes, both public and domestic. Will not some of our more scientific citizens experiment on this subject, and furnish us with the result of their investigations? Vicki Betts Penny Ladnier wrote: I am putting online a fashion terms dictionary from 1894. I came across asbestos being used in fabrics. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: civil war experts
She probably didn't die *in* the battle of Shiloh, but from an illness contracted while nursing in the Columbus, MS hospital (either military or private) after the battle of Shiloh. A number of women, in groups and singly, converged in northern Mississippi from across the South immediately after the battle, including the famous Kate Cumming of Mobile who left a journal. Therefore you are not just looking at local women. However, you are lucky in that Canant is such an uncommon name. Have you tried the 1860 and 1870 census search in Heritage Quest? There are no Canants listed in Mississippi, but there are three in Alabama, plus a few more in Georgia. What adult married women named Canant appeared in the 1860 census that did not appear anywhere (allowing for the large movement of people after the war) in the 1870 census? Then you may have to check out places like Tallapoosa County, Alabama, home of the widow Mary S. Canant, age 40, but with small children. Did she die during the war, or just remarry? It certainly won't be easy, but it looks like you've tried the more obvious places already. BTW, she did not appear in _Confederate Hospitals on the Move_, and I have not spotted her in my Southern newspaper research for the Civil War. To tie this back to costuming, the clothing of Northern Civil War nurses is explored in: Hoisington, Daniel. ‘Women of Discreet Manners’: Union Army Nurses and Their Attire.” Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 5 (December 1997-January 1998): 12-19. Vicki Betts E House wrote: I researched her as best I could with local resources, and discovered that she would most likely have died in the battle of Shiloh, but was unable to find any Canants or Cannants in the area, or anything else of real use in solving the mystery. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
