[h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
Hello everyone, I'm planning to make-over my French Hood (I used Drea Aleed's 1533 pattern http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/fhoodmake.html#patterns) and although I'm pretty happy with the overall shape of the hood it really needs an under-cap to be more authentic. The Tudor Tailor book recommends metallic organza to make the pleated frill you see at the front of French hoods. I've found this silk/copper organza http://www.trimfabric.com/k-648.html and I wanted to check that this is the same as the 'metallic organza' mentioned in the book. Otherwise Thai silks has a metallic silk organza http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=005L which is cheaper but it's 80% 'metal' without specifying what the metal is (and the photo isn't as good so I'm not sure about the overall look). Would the higher metal content mean that it holds the pleats better or would it make it too fragile? If anybody has experimented with pleating metallic organza, which would you recommend for a finely pleated frill? (for an idea of how finely pleated, this http://formetoknow.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?full=1&set_albumName=album02&id=boleyn1 is the portrait the shape of the hood is based on, you can see the golden coloured frill sticking out from underneath her hood. thanks Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
I had good luck with the metallic organza from Supersilk. Go to http://www.supersilk.com/index1.asp then click on "Silk Gallery" on the left. Then "Silk Organza Metallic Plain 44" Wide" from the top box. These have a silk warp and metallic weft. Each color choice tells you the color of the silk and the color of the metal. White gold will be pale, yellow gold a true gold, brown gold more of an antique gold. The one caveat I have is that the warp pleats much easier than the weft, which means you either need to get enough yardage to cut your whole strip along the long grain or you need to piece it. I actually did mine the other way, because I only ordered enough to pleat across the grain, but it fought me the whole way. I used the yellow gold, and you can see it here http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/yellow.html Good luck, Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
A word of caution, if I may. Copper is both an easy metal to work and a difficult one. If you make your pleats right the first time it will be a piece of cake. But every time you bend copper it gets stiffer until it simply won't work for you without annealing (which would be difficult when it is blended with silk). Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Subject: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 14:29:46 +1000 Hello everyone, I'm planning to make-over my French Hood (I used Drea Aleed's 1533 pattern http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/fhoodmake.html#patterns) and although I'm pretty happy with the overall shape of the hood it really needs an under-cap to be more authentic. The Tudor Tailor book recommends metallic organza to make the pleated frill you see at the front of French hoods. I've found this silk/copper organza http://www.trimfabric.com/k-648.html and I wanted to check that this is the same as the 'metallic organza' mentioned in the book. Otherwise Thai silks has a metallic silk organza http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=005L which is cheaper but it's 80% 'metal' without specifying what the metal is (and the photo isn't as good so I'm not sure about the overall look). Would the higher metal content mean that it holds the pleats better or would it make it too fragile? If anybody has experimented with pleating metallic organza, which would you recommend for a finely pleated frill? (for an idea of how finely pleated, this http://formetoknow.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?full=1&set_albumName=album02&id=boleyn1 is the portrait the shape of the hood is based on, you can see the golden coloured frill sticking out from underneath her hood. thanks Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Netscape. Just the Net You Need. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
I haven't ordered the metallic organza from any of the places you've talked about, but have a couple of comments. First, at FFC we got some metallic silk organza, and had some _rust_ problems with it, so my instinct tells me that a copper metallic content would be a big plus. (Ok, maybe you'll get verdigris problems, but I kind of doubt it.) Second, for the pleated edging on my not-yet-finished headwear, I wound up using some wired-edge metallic gold ribbon from walmart, with the wire pulled out. This left me with a nice clean edge on the frill, with much less bother. (Not the woven foil-looking type, but the woven wire that looks like metallic organza but coarser.) Since the frill from my era is generally much wider than the later 16thC stuff, I used the ~1.5" width, and it worked well, though I wound up having to finger-press the pleats into place. The silk/metallic would probably look better, but since I honestly have no idea what they used (does anyone here know? I do early 16thC, but I expect the material used would be the same as mid/late 16thC) I don't know which choice looks more authentic. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
Elizabeth Walpole wrote: If anybody has experimented with pleating metallic organza, which would you recommend for a finely pleated frill? (for an idea of how finely pleated, this I used a narrow, wired metallic organza ribbon from a bag of holiday trim. There ought to be a lot of it in with the Christmas crafts around now. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
I, too, used ribbon with a wire edge, but I left the wire in. Really easy to pleat! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of E House Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 10:47 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill I haven't ordered the metallic organza from any of the places you've talked about, but have a couple of comments. First, at FFC we got some metallic silk organza, and had some _rust_ problems with it, so my instinct tells me that a copper metallic content would be a big plus. (Ok, maybe you'll get verdigris problems, but I kind of doubt it.) Second, for the pleated edging on my not-yet-finished headwear, I wound up using some wired-edge metallic gold ribbon from walmart, with the wire pulled out. This left me with a nice clean edge on the frill, with much less bother. (Not the woven foil-looking type, but the woven wire that looks like metallic organza but coarser.) Since the frill from my era is generally much wider than the later 16thC stuff, I used the ~1.5" width, and it worked well, though I wound up having to finger-press the pleats into place. The silk/metallic would probably look better, but since I honestly have no idea what they used (does anyone here know? I do early 16thC, but I expect the material used would be the same as mid/late 16thC) I don't know which choice looks more authentic. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [h-cost] metalic organza, for a pleated frill wanted to check that this is the same as the 'metallic organza' mentioned in the book. Otherwise Thai silks has a metallic silk organza http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=005L ?!? I was just at Thai Silks over the weekend & I didnt see that. Maybe I'll have to dash back... my suspicion is that the fabric is "metallic-look" rather than having any actual metal content. Whether it keeps a pleat is pretty well dependant on that answer. In 21st century sewing shops, I havent seen metal in fabrics outside of the local Indian sari shops where you can get Cloth of Mylar, Cloth of Brass and, on rare, occasion Cloth of Silver. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
