Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Kimiko Small wrote: Hi all, I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. I used wired christmas ribbon on mine. It was very easy to pleat exactly the way I wanted it, and it stays in place. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for
smocking, and do your pleating on that.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
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Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
> I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and > pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. To > my eye it looks more of a set pattern crinkle in an up and down pattern, > not really pleated as in a knife pleat, if that makes sense. But I am kinda > stumped as to how to go about doing this. I already have gold organza to > pleat, so I am not looking to find ribbon already done up, unless I really > have to. Hi Kimiko, I'm pretty sure it's simply accordian pleated, so it might be easiest to fold the fabric up like one would for paper. Does anyone remember making paper fans as children? Sort of like the parchemtn fan of some queen/empress or other that is still in a museum somewhere. You fold the paper back, edges parallel, then turn it over and fold to the same line. Repeat to the end. For the fan you'd fold the folded paper int he middle and tape the touching edges of course;) If the fabric is a sheer gold, then in period it would have been made with a good deal of real metal. I have some metal organza that forms very sharp creases and folds and would not require much ironing to create accordian pleats at all. So I can imagine with more metal this becomes easier. My crinkle metal organza has more metal and holds those crinkles like crazy! So it may come down to choosing a nice sheer fabric with a real metal componant and making tiny folds, using the fingernail to crease. Or there may be some something akin to pletaing tape made for very fine accordian pleats. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com > And fwiw, I am basing my French hood on Princess Elizabeth's portrait, > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg > with hopefully similar jewel billiment set from Mary Tudor Brandon's > wedding portrait. > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.6/59 - Release Date: 27/07/2005 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Hi Kimiko, I have seen some danish peassants hats/hoods that has such a finely pleated band made of lace. They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. Place one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the lace is wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this. How about using matches for this purpose? Bjarne - Original Message - From: "Kimiko Small" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 1:19 AM Subject: [h-cost] French hood gold Hi all, I am working on a French hood c.1545, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the gold "goffering" (is that the right term?) that is usually found on the hood? It's that gold ribbon or something that is in the front part of the crest, not the jewels which I understand are called billiments. I read one instruction set that calls for pleating organza by hand and pressing by iron, but that sounds tedious and not quite the right look. To my eye it looks more of a set pattern crinkle in an up and down pattern, not really pleated as in a knife pleat, if that makes sense. But I am kinda stumped as to how to go about doing this. I already have gold organza to pleat, so I am not looking to find ribbon already done up, unless I really have to. And fwiw, I am basing my French hood on Princess Elizabeth's portrait, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg with hopefully similar jewel billiment set from Mary Tudor Brandon's wedding portrait. http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/marytudor.jpg Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Fresno, CA, USA "Lady of the Wardrobe" for Isle of Mann Guild Portraying at California's Central Valley Renaissance Faires Lady Clifford, Countess of Cumberland (Margaret Percy, Eleanor Brandon, or Margaret Russell) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
At 12:57 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Hi Kimiko, I have seen some danish peassants hats/hoods that has such a finely pleated band made of lace. They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. Place one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the lace is wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this. How about using matches for this purpose? Bjarne That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think matchbook types would work.) Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
At 08:59 PM 7/27/2005, you wrote: Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for smocking, and do your pleating on that. I only know of one person locally that has a pleater, and she's on vacation till September. :-( Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
At 12:21 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote: So it may come down to choosing a nice sheer fabric with a real metal componant and making tiny folds, using the fingernail to crease. Or there may be some something akin to pletaing tape made for very fine accordian pleats. michaela de bruce Hi Michaela, The gold organza I have has metal in it, but the fabric is not holding the creases without some heat. I've been informed there is a doll makers tiny pleating board available that would do the trick. I've also found hair irons - micro crimpers that also might do the trick. There is one with variable heat settings. I just can't find either locally, but have internet sites found if I have to order them. I just wish most sites would have better images so I can see what size the crimps are at. Thanks for your suggestions. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Bjarne wrote: They also show how this was pleated that way. They used small sticks. Place one stick under and one over - one under and one over etc. While the lace is wet and starched. When dry, it is finely pleated like this. How about using matches for this purpose? Kimiko replied: That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think matchbook types would work.) Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in every supermarket. -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Would one of those "perfect pleaters" work, the kind Clothilde sells, or are the pleats not small enough? That might be a pretty fast and easy way to do it, I would think... KP Kimiko Small <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: At 08:59 PM 7/27/2005, you wrote: >Find somebody with a pleating machine like they use pleating up fabric for >smocking, and do your pleating on that. I only know of one person locally that has a pleater, and she's on vacation till September. :-( Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
At 09:38 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Would one of those "perfect pleaters" work, the kind Clothilde sells, or are the pleats not small enough? That might be a pretty fast and easy way to do it, I would think... KP Hi KP, Thanks for the suggestion. Our fiber guild has one of those, and I looked at it to see, and 1, it is too large a pleat, and 2, it does knife pleats, not crimped pleats, which is what I am looking to do. Really fine crimped pleats. Someone on a different list suggested a doll pleater tool, called a Pretty Pleater. It comes in 3 sizes and it just may do the trick. http://danneruff.com/pleater.htm pic of the 3 pleaters here: http://danneruff.com/pleat.htm They suggest using a fusible backing to hold the pleats in place. Also on that other list was a suggestion for a hair crimper, and I found a micro crimper that has different levels of heat control, and it seems to be really small, but I haven't found one locally yet to really tell. Online photos are small. Then there's the wooden stick method that has an appeal as well, and a few other suggestions. I may be testing a few ideas to see what works well. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
At 09:23 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in every supermarket. -Helen/Aidan The only toothpicks I seem to find are the round ones with plasticy things on the ends. I will have to see if I can find more square ones. Thanks for the suggestion. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Kimiko Small wrote: That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think matchbook types would work.) Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling. -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
What a great idea!!! Thank you so much for sharing Judy. Chris G. Judy Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Kimiko Small wrote: > That's an interesting low-tech way to pleat things. Thanks for sharing > that. I will see if I can find appropriate matches (I don't think > matchbook types would work.) > Matches might be too small. When I made my Danish day dress (which has a tulle cap with a ruffle pleated this way), I made a long frame sorta like a picture frame and cut a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels. I wanted to use straws, but they weren't sturdy enough. then with the tulle wet I anchored one end to the frame and wound it over a stick on top of the frame, then under a stick beneath the frame, then over a stick on top of the frame... until the length of the ruffle was all wound in and then I let it dry. After it's dry and you take it off the dowels, you can gather it in a little tighter (assuming you ran a gather thread before you started pleating) to fit along the edge you need. Apparently this was the method used at least in the 1860s for ruffling. - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. Learn more. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Kimiko Small wrote: At 09:23 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote: Wooden toothpicks would work as well as matchsticks, and are available in every supermarket. -Helen/Aidan The only toothpicks I seem to find are the round ones with plasticy things on the ends. I will have to see if I can find more square ones. Thanks for the suggestion. Kimiko or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese section of some grocery store. liz young ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than
matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. I think the
ones I have in a drawer are actually bamboo and were sold in the chinese
section of some grocery store.
These are bamboo and make nasty splinters, so be careful.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
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Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Chris wrote: What a great idea!!! Thank you so much for sharing Judy. no problem. Luckily there was a diagram in one of my Danish costuming books! Only trick is: make sure the dowels are longer than the width of the frame, that way when you wind the fabric over and under them you can pull them taut against the frame. Just don't leave it out to dry somewhere where a cat can investigate! -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French hood gold
Elizabeth Young wrote: or you might try wooden skewers (like for kebabs). They are longer than matchsticks or toothpicks and might be easier to hang on to. true, but depending on how much fabric you have to take up, the diameter is not big enough. That's why (after tons of calculations) I went with the 1/4" dowels. I had to involve a certain amount in the ruffle depth (think pleating depth). The gather thread allowed me to pull it in to fit the edge it was being attached to. -Judy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
