Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi Penny-- Yes, that was probably mine. In my defense, it's not that unusual to have a notebook--and I had only 5 pages of actual text about the costume pieces, and the remaining pages werefilled with drawings, diagrams of specific parts (I.e. the dropped armscye, the pleating on the skirt), and many, many photos with captions. I had photos of extant garments I had exadmined, and actual vintage photos of hte time, and phtoocopies from PEtersons and Godey's showing examples of what I was doing. And I also had a Timeline of the Industrial Age, and a bibliography of course. It ended up being quite long, but fast to read, becasue it was mostly pictures and captions. My documentaion is going to be published later this year in "Virtual Costumer" online. http://www.siwcostumers.org/vc_contents.html The documentation was out on Monday Morning for a while on what had been the Toronto bid table downstairs across from t he Exhibit area. Yours in coustming, Lisa A On Wed, 11 May 2011 01:34:40 -0400 writes: > Lisa, > > I heard a rumor that an entry in the historic category had an > entire > notebook of documentation for their costume. Was that you? > > Penny Ladnier, owner > The Costume Gallery Websites > www.costumegallery.com > 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history > FaceBook: > http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Lisa, I heard a rumor that an entry in the historic category had an entire notebook of documentation for their costume. Was that you? Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi Penny-- It was great to see you again (although I think you didn't recognize me at first),, and your photos are anticipated. I was very lazy about taking photos myself because I Was so busy otherwise--2 big competitions, including hte Historicala with pre-judging, 2 tech rehearsals (although those went extremely smooth), 4 panels including Friday, where I was in t he Workshop area for open beading for 4 hours, a round table discussion. Also having to eat. And put on hall costumes. I'm hoping next year might be a bit less busy, but I already am planning on something enw for the historical masquerade. Thank you for your compliments. For me, the greatest joy is in the process. The documentation for the costume of Sarah Ballou from the Historical Masq. is going to be published in Virtual Costumer, later this year. I hope that if you are ever out this way--East Coast--Maryland--you will contact me. Yours in costuming, Lis aA On Mon, 9 May 2011 02:04:50 -0400 writes: > Lisa, > > I am working on the photos that I took of you at Costume-Con. I > applaud > for doing an excellent job in matching your fabric prints up on your > dress's > seams. WOW! Matching up prints is such a lot art. I also > converted a > couple of your photos to black & white. I think you will be > pleased. > > Penny Ladnier, owner > The Costume Gallery Websites > www.costumegallery.com > 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history > FaceBook: > http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Lisa, I am working on the photos that I took of you at Costume-Con. I applaud for doing an excellent job in matching your fabric prints up on your dress's seams. WOW! Matching up prints is such a lot art. I also converted a couple of your photos to black & white. I think you will be pleased. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Yes, indeed. And thank you,, all of you who helped answer my questions and encouraged me (I did give hte H-costume list credit in my Bibliog.!) Yours in cosutming,L isa A On Sat, 7 May 2011 01:19:16 -0700 Patricia Dunham writes: > I believe this is you? at about minute 20:45, > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FUACCHaNgE > > very nice. > chimene > > On May 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: > > > Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War > era > > dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called > "The > > Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I believe this is you? at about minute 20:45, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FUACCHaNgE very nice. chimene On May 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: > Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era > dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called "The > Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must > say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the > tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the costumes > on). I want to thank everyone on the H-costume list for their > knowledgeable answers to my many questions over the past 12 months, and I > want to thank all the folks at the "Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860's" > conference in March of 2011 as well, for a conference that really got me > thinking and was very illuminating. My reserach that I wrote up as the > documentation for the costume, will be published later this year in the > "Virtual Costumer:" online costume magazine. I have an article in an > issue from last year, about re-creating my great-grandmother's first day > dress from about 1896. The magazine's older issues are open to the > public, and the current issue is password-protected for about the first > month. > > http://www.siwcostumers.org/vc_current-issue.html > > There will also be photos of that costume, and my Fantasy and SF > Masquerade costume "Mistress of All Hallows" up on Costume Gallery. > > Thank you all again, and I really enjoy the discussions. > > Yours in costuming, Lisa a > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks! It took me 4 fabric stores to find the exact right shade of green for the piping--the green that is part of the dress print actually has a great deal of yellow in it and was hard to find. It was a great masquerade and I am thrilled with how the presentation came out. Yours in coustming,Lisa A On Thu, 5 May 2011 04:57:24 -0400 writes: > Lisa, > > I was just looking on your CW dress. The piping looks great and > matches the > print perfectly. > > Penny Ladnier, owner > The Costume Gallery Websites > www.costumegallery.com > 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history > FaceBook: > http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Lisa, I was just looking on your CW dress. The piping looks great and matches the print perfectly. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Lisa, Your costumes were were wonderful and a treat to photograph. Your presentation of the CW costumes were very moving! Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thank you Kristin! We really felt like we were "chanelling" the Ballous, we weren't anxious or nervous, we just took a deep breath backstage, and knew who we were. And I"m still excited about Civil War era clothing; I bought hte 1861 Paletot coat pattern at the 18660's conference and am looking forward to making it out of a lovely cream wool I bought a few weeks ago. Now it's back to work and the mundane world, unfortunately. Yours incosutming, Lisa A On Tue, 3 May 2011 19:19:58 -0700 Kristin Stonham writes: > On 3 May 2011 15:40, Lisa A Ashton wrote: > > > Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War > era > > dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called > "The > > Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I > must > > say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears > (even the > > tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the > costumes > > on). > > > > You certainly had me in tears! Your presentation and your costumes > were > exquisite. Congratulations on your well-deserved win! > > --Kristin Stonham > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Congrats, Lisa-- can hardly wait to see it. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On May 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called "The Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
On 3 May 2011 15:40, Lisa A Ashton wrote: > Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era > dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called "The > Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must > say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the > tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the costumes > on). > You certainly had me in tears! Your presentation and your costumes were exquisite. Congratulations on your well-deserved win! --Kristin Stonham ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Congratulations on your win! Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a novel set in Georgian England Third Place, Royal Ascot 2009 http://www.marjoriegilbert.net http://yearofeatingnaturally.blogspot.com/ http://marjoriegilbert.blogspot.com/ http://www.gilbertinfrared.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called "The Letter". At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the costumes on). I want to thank everyone on the H-costume list for their knowledgeable answers to my many questions over the past 12 months, and I want to thank all the folks at the "Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860's" conference in March of 2011 as well, for a conference that really got me thinking and was very illuminating. My reserach that I wrote up as the documentation for the costume, will be published later this year in the "Virtual Costumer:" online costume magazine. I have an article in an issue from last year, about re-creating my great-grandmother's first day dress from about 1896. The magazine's older issues are open to the public, and the current issue is password-protected for about the first month. http://www.siwcostumers.org/vc_current-issue.html There will also be photos of that costume, and my Fantasy and SF Masquerade costume "Mistress of All Hallows" up on Costume Gallery. Thank you all again, and I really enjoy the discussions. Yours in costuming, Lisa a ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks--when I have an extra minute, I will look it up. It's snowing here now, and freezing cold, (In Maryland), so much of what I Was hoping to get done today didn't happen, but I am doing inside things. Yours in costuming, LisaA On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 10:38:15 -0800 Lynn Downward writes: > Lisa, > > The photos of the double piping were in the book by Jennifer > Rosbrugh of > Cloak & Corset "Moder Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing > Construction," 2nd Edition. This is one of the ebooks Cloak & Corset > offers. > It has a lot of basic information but some real jewels are in there > too. > > LynnD > > On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 3:50 AM, Lisa A Ashton > wrote: > > > I went ahead and used a very spring green for piping on fabric > that was a > > navy blue with very small white and green flower patterns. It was > a > > ctually quite difficult and took me to 3 separate stores to find > the > > correct green that had enough yellow in it, but it was a great > match and > > looks really nice, since there is very little ornamentation. But > the > > little photo of Mrs. Lincloln's dress will become part of my > > documentation for my dress with the contrasting piping. > > > > The double piping sounds really intriguing, I would loveto see a > photo or > > reference for it. > > > > Yours in cosutming, Lisa A > > > > On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:11:24 -0800 Lynn Downward > > > writes: > > > I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with > the > > > fashion > > > fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at > the > > > waist > > > edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an > entire > > > cotton > > > dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of > red > > > in my > > > pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my > cotton > > > day > > > dress. > > > > > > The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon > > > Mercantile > > > 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with > > > fitting the > > > back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. > > > > > > LynnD > > > > > > On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Thank you thank thank y ou!!!!! This is so awesome and it > is > > > EXACTLY the > > > > affirmation I Was looking for. I"ve never seen where they > piped > > > the front > > > > darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on > my > > > next > > > > go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, > Lisa A > > > > -- Original Message -- > > > > From: Laura Rubin > > > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > > > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 > > > > > > > > The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. > Lincoln's > > > > dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam > with > > > > white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the > > > front > > > > darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was > > > rather > > > > unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. > > > > > > > > You can see a tiny picture of it here: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&e > > xkey=696&pagekey=710 > > > > > > > > -Laura > > > > > > > > > > > > Message: 13 > > > > Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 > > > > From: Lisa A Ashton > > > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > > > Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > > > Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > > > > > I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, > and > > > almost all > > > > self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does > > > anyone have > > > > a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print > dress > > > (or even > > > > anything refering to co
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Lisa, The photos of the double piping were in the book by Jennifer Rosbrugh of Cloak & Corset "Moder Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction," 2nd Edition. This is one of the ebooks Cloak & Corset offers. It has a lot of basic information but some real jewels are in there too. LynnD On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 3:50 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: > I went ahead and used a very spring green for piping on fabric that was a > navy blue with very small white and green flower patterns. It was a > ctually quite difficult and took me to 3 separate stores to find the > correct green that had enough yellow in it, but it was a great match and > looks really nice, since there is very little ornamentation. But the > little photo of Mrs. Lincloln's dress will become part of my > documentation for my dress with the contrasting piping. > > The double piping sounds really intriguing, I would loveto see a photo or > reference for it. > > Yours in cosutming, Lisa A > > On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:11:24 -0800 Lynn Downward > writes: > > I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with the > > fashion > > fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at the > > waist > > edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an entire > > cotton > > dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of red > > in my > > pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my cotton > > day > > dress. > > > > The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon > > Mercantile > > 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with > > fitting the > > back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. > > > > LynnD > > > > On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton > > wrote: > > > > > Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is > > EXACTLY the > > > affirmation I Was looking for. I"ve never seen where they piped > > the front > > > darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my > > next > > > go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A > > > -- Original Message -- > > > From: Laura Rubin > > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 > > > > > > The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's > > > dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with > > > white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the > > front > > > darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was > > rather > > > unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. > > > > > > You can see a tiny picture of it here: > > > > > > > > > http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&e > xkey=696&pagekey=710 > > > > > > -Laura > > > > > > > > > Message: 13 > > > Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 > > > From: Lisa A Ashton > > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > > Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > > Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > > > I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and > > almost all > > > self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does > > anyone have > > > a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress > > (or even > > > anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping > > on a > > > lighter colored dress bodice)? > > > > > > Yours in costuming, Lisa A > > > ___ > > > h-costume mailing list > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > ___ > > > h-costume mailing list > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > > > ___ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I went ahead and used a very spring green for piping on fabric that was a navy blue with very small white and green flower patterns. It was a ctually quite difficult and took me to 3 separate stores to find the correct green that had enough yellow in it, but it was a great match and looks really nice, since there is very little ornamentation. But the little photo of Mrs. Lincloln's dress will become part of my documentation for my dress with the contrasting piping. The double piping sounds really intriguing, I would loveto see a photo or reference for it. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:11:24 -0800 Lynn Downward writes: > I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with the > fashion > fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at the > waist > edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an entire > cotton > dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of red > in my > pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my cotton > day > dress. > > The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon > Mercantile > 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with > fitting the > back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. > > LynnD > > On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton > wrote: > > > Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is > EXACTLY the > > affirmation I Was looking for. I"ve never seen where they piped > the front > > darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my > next > > go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A > > ---------- Original Message -- > > From: Laura Rubin > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 > > > > The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's > > dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with > > white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the > front > > darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was > rather > > unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. > > > > You can see a tiny picture of it here: > > > > > http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&e xkey=696&pagekey=710 > > > > -Laura > > > > > > Message: 13 > > Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 > > From: Lisa A Ashton > > To: h-cost...@indra.com > > Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and > almost all > > self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does > anyone have > > a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress > (or even > > anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping > on a > > lighter colored dress bodice)? > > > > Yours in costuming, Lisa A > > ___ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I work with the Reed Homestead clothing collection (Townsend, MA). At least one 1850-60 dress has fake "outie" back side seams. The back bodice is one piece. Don't know if that helps the discussion at all... -Dede O'Hair ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Yep, that curved back seam _should_ be a real seam, but in my project, it was a falsie to make the coat look plausible :) It tapered to nothing at its termination in the armhole. Thanks for the clarification on the tuck! == Marjorie Wilser On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:17 PM, Lists wrote (in part): Marjorie said: I'd be interested to know which direction the tuck is formed- an inny or an outie :) ? FWIW - That curved back seam in a frock coat is a real seam, not a tuck. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Marjorie said: I'd be interested to know which direction the tuck is formed- an inny or an outie :) ? The tuck is folded toward the center and upper backs; I guess that makes it an "innie". I do have photos of original garments with tucks that like seams, but this list doesn't support attachments. The tucks don't save that much fabric. Period seam allowances average 1/2" and the tuck takes up approximately 1/4"-3/8" of fabric. They are easy and relatively quick to construct and can save time. They don't work if you need a real seam to achieve a better fit; then you need a true 3-piece back. FWIW - That curved back seam in a frock coat is a real seam, not a tuck. Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with the fashion fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at the waist edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an entire cotton dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of red in my pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my cotton day dress. The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon Mercantile 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with fitting the back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. LynnD On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton wrote: > Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is EXACTLY the > affirmation I Was looking for. I"ve never seen where they piped the front > darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my next > go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A > -- Original Message -- > From: Laura Rubin > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 > > The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's > dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with > white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front > darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather > unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. > > You can see a tiny picture of it here: > > http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&exkey=696&pagekey=710 > > -Laura > > > Message: 13 > Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 > From: Lisa A Ashton > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all > self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have > a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even > anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a > lighter colored dress bodice)? > > Yours in costuming, Lisa A > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is EXACTLY the affirmation I Was looking for. I"ve never seen where they piped the front darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my next go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A -- Original Message -- From: Laura Rubin To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. You can see a tiny picture of it here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&exkey=696&pagekey=710 -Laura Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 From: Lisa A Ashton To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. You can see a tiny picture of it here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267&exkey=696&pagekey=710 -Laura Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 From: Lisa A Ashton To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Message-ID: <20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Carolann, I'd be interested to know which direction the tuck is formed- an inny or an outie :) ? I have used the technique to induce a curved back seam in a gentleman's overcoat I altered to a frock coat; my tuck was an inny. I did not topstitch it; folding the seam to stitch it down would induce major puckers in thick cloth. Do you have a closeup of any of these "seam" tucks? They certainly would have saved cloth! Thanks for an excellent opinion on piping/seams for CW era dresses! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Dec 13, 2010, at 6:25 PM, Lists wrote (in part): Hi, Lisa - Piping is not an absolute, but it does appear in almost all adult dresses c.1860-1865: in the armscyes for stabilization and strength and at the waistline and neckline as a finishing technique. The curved back seams are usually not piped; what appears to be piping in photographs is topstitching. On a significant number of dresses, this curved back seam is not even a seam - it's a tuck folded into the fabric. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks so much--this is really helpful. I am making a reproduction 1861 dress, but I used green piping instead of self piping, because it picked up the tiny amount of green in t he small print on a dark blue background, and was one of the few decorative elements. I look forward to meeting you at the Genteel Arts Conference, and perhaps discuss some of this! Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 21:25:06 -0500 "Lists" writes: > Hi, Lisa - > > Piping is not an absolute, but it does appear in almost all adult > dresses > c.1860-1865: in the armscyes for stabilization and strength and at > the > waistline and neckline as a finishing technique. The curved back > seams are > usually not piped; what appears to be piping in photographs is > topstitching. > On a significant number of dresses, this curved back seam is not > even a seam > - it's a tuck folded into the fabric. > > Self-fabric piping is also not an absolute - but the number of > extant > garments with contrasting piping represent a miniscule amount of > surviving > garments - possibly just a fraction of a percent of those worn > during the > period. Examples where I have found contrasting piping: a wrapper > c.1861-1863 that used scrap fabric as part of the construction. e.g. > collar, > belt, cuffs and piping; two evening gowns c.1865-1866 where > significantly > larger piping was used as a decorative accent; and two children's > dresses > where contrasting fabric was used as a trimming. In four decades > of > research and hundreds of original garments - those have been the > only > examples I've encountered from this era. Contrasting piping does > become more > common in the post-war era. I've discussed this with other > researchers and > collectors who focus on this era and their surveys are comparable > with mine. > > > The only absolute in American Civil War era dresses is a dropped > armscye; > there are exceptions to almost every other characteristic. However, > contrast > piping in adult garments appears to be an aberration rather except > in the > circumstances I mentioned. > > As always, YMMV, and I'd enjoy hearing about other examples that I > can add > to my database. :-) > > Regards, > Carolann Schmitt > cschm...@genteelarts.com > www.genteelarts.com > Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi, Lisa - Piping is not an absolute, but it does appear in almost all adult dresses c.1860-1865: in the armscyes for stabilization and strength and at the waistline and neckline as a finishing technique. The curved back seams are usually not piped; what appears to be piping in photographs is topstitching. On a significant number of dresses, this curved back seam is not even a seam - it's a tuck folded into the fabric. Self-fabric piping is also not an absolute - but the number of extant garments with contrasting piping represent a miniscule amount of surviving garments - possibly just a fraction of a percent of those worn during the period. Examples where I have found contrasting piping: a wrapper c.1861-1863 that used scrap fabric as part of the construction. e.g. collar, belt, cuffs and piping; two evening gowns c.1865-1866 where significantly larger piping was used as a decorative accent; and two children's dresses where contrasting fabric was used as a trimming. In four decades of research and hundreds of original garments - those have been the only examples I've encountered from this era. Contrasting piping does become more common in the post-war era. I've discussed this with other researchers and collectors who focus on this era and their surveys are comparable with mine. The only absolute in American Civil War era dresses is a dropped armscye; there are exceptions to almost every other characteristic. However, contrast piping in adult garments appears to be an aberration rather except in the circumstances I mentioned. As always, YMMV, and I'd enjoy hearing about other examples that I can add to my database. :-) Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks, that is very helpful, even though the contrasting piping is only at the waistline. It DOES at least affirm what I have been doing. If anyone else has any vintage photos or examples of contrasting piping fromt he 1860's I am VERY interested in documenting them for a current project. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:10:38 -0800 (PST) Beteena Paradise writes: > I have one example, but the contrasting piping is only at the > waistline and is > really a decorative element. I have uploaded the pictures of the > gown if you are > interested in looking. The gown is from 1867. > > http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w344/my_stitching/Piping%20example/ > > > > > > From: Lisa A Ashton > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:26:12 AM > Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses > > I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and > almost all > self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone > have > a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or > even > anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping > on a > lighter colored dress bodice)? > > Yours in costuming, Lisa A > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I have one example, but the contrasting piping is only at the waistline and is really a decorative element. I have uploaded the pictures of the gown if you are interested in looking. The gown is from 1867. http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w344/my_stitching/Piping%20example/ From: Lisa A Ashton To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:26:12 AM Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
