Re: [h-cost] polonaise jacket

[aquazoo]

 There is a caraco in Patterns of Fashion, and I think it's similar,
without pleats or maybe it has minimal pleats.

 If she made the pattern herself, then perhaps she has a preference. 
Maybe she took it from an original.  Either way, if you're making the
jacket for her you can ask about the design and whether she wants it
to be changed.

 -Carol


 A lady friend from Gustavs Skål, sended me a pattern of a polonaise jacket
 1785-90. Its supposed to be me who sew it and embroider it for her.
 But i have never seen the pattern before. I think its a pattern she made
 herself.
 In the front it has a compere closing, looking like a stomacher with
 slanted lines in A- form of the jacket sides.
 What i dont understand about the pattern is, that the jacket dont have any
 pleats in the waistline the skirt width is achieved by slanting seams, 2
 center back pieces, 2 side pieces and 2 front pieces.
 Would it not be more appropriate to make the width of the skirt bigger
 and make more room for pleats in stead of slanting lines?
 The shape of the jacket is to be more of a bustle pad than a round pad.

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Re: [h-cost] polonaise jacket

[AlbertCat]

There are several examples of jackets that have no pleats and the skirts  
flare out at the side and back seams to get some fullness. But I think of these 
 
as being earlier than the 1780s. Think of the quilted outfit in Janet Arnold.  
That jacket with a hood. It too has a compere like a stomacher that closes 
CF.  The jacket is tacked onto it, and there is an updated drawing in the back 
of the  book to show how it forms an A line , not the line shown in the 
initial  illustration.



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