The Holton 178 can easily be restored to good playing condition, but $1500
is too much $ for a horn in this condition. I have bought 2 used Holtons in
the last 2 years that were $1500 and $1750, and they both played fine
without any extensive restoration work. Check on horn player.net, brass arts
unlimited or Ken Pope for a better deal.
--------------------
You would be taking a considerable risk if you cannot try the horn for
yourself. If the horn you are considering has stuck valves and slides it
suggests that the horn was not prepared for long term storage properly.
Unsticking the slides and valves may cause damage that will affect the
horn's qualities. A good repair technician should be able to free the valves
and slides with minimal or even no damage, but that may entail some expense
before you get to try the horn, which would be wasted if you found it to be
a lemon.
My advice would be to ensure that the seller repairs the horn at least to a
playable state before you try it. At least then you can get an impression of
its qualities prior to committing any cash to the
purchase.
----------------------
If I were to mention one most important idea regarding buying a horn, is to
try it out over a long time, preferably days, weeks. There is more I can
say on this. There are so many factors to check regarding the horn's
response, plus factoring in your wants/desires in horn response. Actually,
this
applies to mouthpieces, too. Don't rush into buying anything!
If you do purchase it you can then take it to a good repair technician to
have it overhauled.
-------------------
I don't have much experience buying horns. I bought a new Conn 8D in 1964
when I was 17. Then last Dec. I bought a year 1978 Paxman Bb from a horn
playing friend of Sacramento. I paid quite a lot for the Paxman, $2500, but
my friend had put nearly $4000 into it and the horn was his primary horn for
five years. I had played it briefly before I moved from Sacramento 18
months ago. When he then contacted me whether I wanted it or not, it was a
difficult decision since I was then 500 miles away. The bottom line is I am
glad (I guess) that I bought it because it is a wonderful
horn. Turns out the valves have quite a lot of wear but surprisingly that
doesn't affect how well it
plays.
Now, back to you-- the easiest way to evaluate your situation with the
Holton would be to have either a professional level player evaluate it for
you or a very good instrument technician to evaluate it. Do you know that
the valves and slides are frozen? My 8D sat to 30 years, yet neither the
valves nor slides were frozen. The Holton may be fine. If the horn was
played professionally (if you know this for sure), that is a very very good
indicator that this horn is special in its performance characteristics,
since the horn was probably picked out initially for its superior playing.
Now, the very worst situation that you could get into would be for the horn
to have its valves in such poor condition that they would need to be
reconditioned (rebuilt). If this were the case, you should pick one of the
half-dozen finest horn techs in the country (send the horn away) and have
this done. It would cost $600 to $1000, but you then would essentially have
a new horn, similar to having a new engine and transmission for your car.
If you got a good price for the horn, the worst case scenario would be
buying the horn and then putting in $1000 for reconditioning, and this could
still cost you less than a new mass-produced made factory horn yet with much
better results. A new Holton would cost around $2500; if this one is in
good shape, meaning very few dents and working valves, I would guess $1500
or less would be a great price for you; if it has exceptional playing
characteristics with good valves,
it could be worth more than a new one.
Based on your information ..., I definitely think this horn is worth
considering. Another
consideration, though, is whether this specific horn and model is "right"
for you-- if you were in a room with 50 horns that you could play, would
this make and model be one of your favorites?
Horn selection can be frustrating and maddening, but it can also be a fun
adventure.
----------------------
Frozen valves & frozen slides are no criteria to buy a horn or not as this
can be fixed quite easily at minimal expenses:
Slides: use a bit of very thin synthetic oil, put it at the edge of the
slide to pull so the oils can screech between the tubings; use a candle to
warm the slide; pull the slide out by holding it firmly & twist just a bit;
the slide will get lose or - if you use all force for pulling, you will rip
the horn apart.
A similar procedure works for the valce: first descrew the caps & oil it
inside on the nipple; try to turn the valve; if necessary use a little piece
of wood & a very light hammer, so to get the wing on the backside moving. If
the valve moves, put more oil into the valve slide - said a bit more than
usual, shake the horn back & forth & move the valves until they run free.
Repeat that for all valves.
If you feel then that the horn responds well to your playing effort and if
the horn is in good condition otherwise, buy it for that moderate price &
invest the money for a professional cleaning of the valves but insist on NO
FITTING, just get the valves cleaned by ultrasonic process &
washed through (horn), re-oiled & reassembled.
----------------------------
Just my opinion, but Holtons are not very good. The valves have problems,
the low register is too tight, there seams to not be enough warmth to the
sound. If you are going to go the used route (and there is nothing wrong
with that) check out the horns on Ken Popes site. Go for the best pro
horn you can afford.
-------------------------
Hi, I for one would not get a horn in that much disrepair/use because it may
cost you to get it fixed if you can't do it your self. I feel any purchase
the valves and slides should work, maybe a little slow, but work. You may
want to ask a Horn repair person how much to fix it up so you will have a
total $ amount that you will have to spent to make it playable.
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