Joe, it is natural, that the slide shanks sometimes get black. Comes from
chemical reactions between metal grease. Multiple baths snaking does not
help, even it is good to do it from time to time (every several months).
The less grease you use on the slides, the better. It is common knowledge,
that oily or fatty substances create a slippery film when in contact with
water (moist). As the tolerances between shanks (inner tube) receivers
(outer tube) must be as tight as possible, this film would have a thickness
of around 5 my only (5/1000 mm). How to create this ? Wipe away all the old
grease, using a microfiber towel from the supermarket (not abrasive, machine
washable too); wipe the slide dry carefully, apply a bit of slide grease
(any), distribute it to the entire slide shanks each, insert the slide on
one side, turn it around, remove, do the same for the other shank, remove
the excess grease. Stop, that´s not all. Spit on the shank before setting it
on its proper place, but carefully. Avoid spitting all your lunch left overs
on the slides. You will see, it works very well.
Now the loose slides ? What´s the source of these looseness ? Over
polishing, age, wear, etc. Yes, that´s right for older horns than 25 years
or 50 years. How on modern horns ? Poor workmanship or/and poor care by the
user. Poor workmanship does not mean, that the inner tubes were too thin,
no, as they come from the industry, ready made. Yes, in some cases, they
might be polished down too much. But this company would have been pushed off
the market soon. No, the users lousy care. So slide shanks are either
squeezed together, so to stuck, or they are pushed aside each other, so to
stuck again, or they are absolutely parallel, as they should, but falling
out by themselves. What to do then ? Squeeze the shanks just a mini-bit, so
to create a bit of tension (a bit out of the parallel) which will hold the
slide in position perfectly.
Makers side: they produce the slides with an absolute parallel without any
tension. This tension can be created by the appropriate soldering of the
bridge between the tubes. How: insert the slide, bridge not soldered. Put
something between the tubes, so to create a mini-bit of tension. Solder now.
Remove the slide. It works. But care for MINI-BIT, not just a bit or just
something. The difference is just hair thin, not more.
==
-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: horn-bounces+hans=pizka...@music.memphis.edu
[mailto:horn-bounces+hans=pizka...@music.memphis.edu] Im Auftrag von Joseph
Scriva
Gesendet: Freitag, 6. März 2009 02:37
An: horn@music.memphis.edu
Betreff: [Hornlist] Black residue
Hi listers,
I have a 2006 eastlake conn 8DS. Since day one, every time I pull a slide
out of my horn, theres always some kind of black residue on the slides. I've
given my horn multiple baths and have snaked it frequently, and i always
snake out the slide tubes and clean the slides befor applying new grease.
Why is this happening? I use Shilke tuning slide grease with lanolin, and i
use hetman 13.5 and 12 for the rotors. Is it because of the grease?
Thanks,
Joe Scriva
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