RE: [Hornlist] Dirty Valve Story

2005-05-14 Thread Herbert Foster
The problem with the water film lubrication theory is that it's not only the
valve bodies that can corrode. My Finke had a lot of blue-green corrosion in
the tubes next to the valves. I had the horn cleaned--no acid. Thank you Ken
Pope. Ken said to use oil to prevent corrosion.

Herb Foster
--- Loren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> "Finke uses carbon fibre valves."
> 
>I am not sure carbon fibre is exactly correct. As I understand it, the
> rotors are a carbon based polymeric plastic. Unlike brass, this material is
> very resistant to wear and much lighter. Therefore, Finke rotors are
> cylindrical and not tapered as they don't have to correct for wear over
> time; thus proper alignment of the rotors to the valve tubing is maintained
> over time. Normally the condensation that forms keeps these rotors
> lubricated, an occasional drop of light piston oil prevents the scale from
> evaporating water from forming. 
> 
> Loren Mayhew
> \@()
> Finke Horns
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (520) 403-6897
> 
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RE: [Hornlist] Dirty Valve Story

2005-05-13 Thread Loren
"Finke uses carbon fibre valves."

   I am not sure carbon fibre is exactly correct. As I understand it, the
rotors are a carbon based polymeric plastic. Unlike brass, this material is
very resistant to wear and much lighter. Therefore, Finke rotors are
cylindrical and not tapered as they don't have to correct for wear over
time; thus proper alignment of the rotors to the valve tubing is maintained
over time. Normally the condensation that forms keeps these rotors
lubricated, an occasional drop of light piston oil prevents the scale from
evaporating water from forming. 

Loren Mayhew
\@()
Finke Horns
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897

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Re: [Hornlist] Dirty Valve Story

2005-05-13 Thread Valkhorn
 
Finke uses carbon fibre valves.
 
-William
 
In a message dated 5/13/2005 1:03:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Holton  & E. Schmid & the rest could just make the rotors & casings of  
corrosion-resistant alloys, no?

Way too simple, eh?

-- Alan  Cole, rank amateur
McLean (Fairfax County), Virginia,  USA.


 
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Re: [Hornlist] Dirty Valve Story

2005-05-13 Thread Alan Cole
Holton & E. Schmid & the rest could just make the rotors & casings of 
corrosion-resistant alloys, no?

Way too simple, eh?
-- Alan Cole, rank amateur
   McLean (Fairfax County), Virginia, USA.
 ~
At 01:42 PM 5/13/2005, you wrote:
With all the talk of dirty, gummed up valves, I thought I'd share my
personal experience of another cause of gummed valves.
I was lucky enough to witness a demonstration of taking apart a rotary valve
from Bob Osmun several years ago.  I decided it didn't seem too hard, so I
took apart my Holton 177 to see how dirty the valves were.  I hadn't had any
work done on the horn in more than 15 years and I'm not all that great at
cleaning the instrument- once a year if it's lucky.  To my surprise the
valves were spotless.  I oil the rotor bearings daily but never put oil
inside the horn.
Then I bought my E. Schmid the following year.  Within a single year, the
3rd valve and descant valve was getting sticky.  I took it into the shop (I
don't do my own valve work with the Schmid) and to my bewilderment, the
valves were completely filthy- green and nasty!  They cleaned it out and it
was working fine.  About 18 months later, they started getting sticky again.
I thought maybe it was due to different metals used in the horn, etc.  I
used the same oil and followed the same procedures as my other horn- other
than I cleaned it more often!
I think I finally realized the problem.  My fancy new Marcus Bonna Travel
case stores the instrument with the valves DOWN.  This means that all the
moisture that I don't get out of the horn ends up gathering right where you
don't want it to be.  My ancient Holton case stores it with the slides down
at an angle- any moisture would drain in the slides rather than the valves.
So now, I keep the Bonna case on it's side rather than upright.  I'll let
everyone know in a couple of years if my theory is correct.
John Wunderlin


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[Hornlist] Dirty Valve Story

2005-05-13 Thread John Wunderlin
With all the talk of dirty, gummed up valves, I thought I'd share my
personal experience of another cause of gummed valves.

I was lucky enough to witness a demonstration of taking apart a rotary valve
from Bob Osmun several years ago.  I decided it didn't seem too hard, so I
took apart my Holton 177 to see how dirty the valves were.  I hadn't had any
work done on the horn in more than 15 years and I'm not all that great at
cleaning the instrument- once a year if it's lucky.  To my surprise the
valves were spotless.  I oil the rotor bearings daily but never put oil
inside the horn.

Then I bought my E. Schmid the following year.  Within a single year, the
3rd valve and descant valve was getting sticky.  I took it into the shop (I
don't do my own valve work with the Schmid) and to my bewilderment, the
valves were completely filthy- green and nasty!  They cleaned it out and it
was working fine.  About 18 months later, they started getting sticky again.
I thought maybe it was due to different metals used in the horn, etc.  I
used the same oil and followed the same procedures as my other horn- other
than I cleaned it more often!

I think I finally realized the problem.  My fancy new Marcus Bonna Travel
case stores the instrument with the valves DOWN.  This means that all the
moisture that I don't get out of the horn ends up gathering right where you
don't want it to be.  My ancient Holton case stores it with the slides down
at an angle- any moisture would drain in the slides rather than the valves.

So now, I keep the Bonna case on it's side rather than upright.  I'll let
everyone know in a couple of years if my theory is correct.

John Wunderlin



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