Re: [Hornlist] Re: New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-08 Thread Billbamberg
In a message dated 3/7/2004 1:53:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

>   Sorry,
>   But how can you tell if the horn has "factory dust" 
> left in? Are there 
> tell tale sings I would notice or something?


No manufacturer could possibly survive sending out a significant number of instruments 
that are going to require factory warrantee service, or be obviously degraded, just 
from being played.

I don't have specific first hand knowledge of particular manufacturers, but I can make 
pretty good guesses from having set up many similar manufacturing operations.

Cleaning out lapping residue is a difficult shop operation.  All this work would be 
completed before the horn is assembled.  Since the parts are all the same, specific 
tools and procedures would be scrupulously developed and used, followed by rigid 
inspection.  Likewise, contamination from assembly soldering would be closely 
controlled.

The one place where problems could slip through would be in rework of finished 
instruments that don't pass final assembly.  Rework of a sticky valve or leaky solder 
joint would undoubtedly contaminate the instrument and require re cleaning outside of 
the normal procedure.  This is much harder to control because it falls outside 
standard procedure, and requires operator intelligence and diligence, rare qualities 
to be found at a factory wage.

My inclination, as an inquisitive engineer, would be to disassemble the horn and 
personally clean and hand polish all the parts.  That is the best inspection procedure 
I know for evaluating a used instrument.  Short of that, I'd push clean white cloth 
through the bore looking for deposits.  Look closely at what turns up, particularly 
look for particulate material.

If there is anything that's going to cause serious damage, you're going to feel it 
when you operate the valves.  If you feel grating, and you keep working the valves, 
chances are you're too stupid to benefit from these simple instructions.  Take the 
valves apart and do a thorough cleaning.  If you're unsure of your abilities, it's not 
difficult.  If you post what you're attempting on the net, you'll have several 
knowledgeable people offering friendly help within minutes.  In a pinch, you can do 
the whole job with a butter knife and a wooden spoon, as long as you pick a butter 
knife that fits the screws properly.  The actual cleaning is done with a snake brush 
and cotton swabs and cloth or paper towels using dishwasing liquid and brasso to clean 
and polish.  Chances are, you won't have to do any polishing, just soaking, scrubbing, 
and flushing.  At worst, you might have to take all the parts to a technician to be 
reassembled, but you'll know you spent enough time to really get things clean.  Save 
the dirty swabs with the original sludge, and the last clean swabs, to show the 
technician.  They will tell him more detail than you can.  Watch the reassembly so you 
can do it all next time.  
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RE: [Hornlist] Re: new horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Hans
Hold your hands against your breath & smell. If it is too acid, you will
smell it.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Jason A Pawlak
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:58 AM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Re: new horn maintenance

What is "bad acid breath"?
 



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RE: [Hornlist] Re: new horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Hans
So I recommend to pull off slides & leave the case open for some days
when planning to leave the horn unplayed for more than a short while.
The horn can dry completely then. Just water it before resuming playing.
=



  I think the worst problems happen when the horn 
sits unplayed.  The valve oil evaporates but the moisture is still in
there and 
starts to cause corrosion.  
You'd probably be safe with 6 or 10 hours of playing daily.  Well ok

maybe a little less.

- Steve Mumford


   

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Re: [Hornlist] Re: new horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Carlberg Jones
At 7:58 PM -0800 3/7/04, Jason A Pawlak wrote:
>What is "bad acid breath"?


Greetings -


This web site is about "acid breath." I suppose "bad" is simply a matter of
degree.

http://www.acidbreath.userhost.de/heller/1024x768.htm

On the lighter side, here's a cartoon about an effect of acid breath.

http://www.cartoonstock.com/directory/a/acid_breath.asp

Here's an article titled "Minimal bile acid malabsorption and normal bile
acid breath . . . "

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?cmd=Retrieve&db=PubMed&dopt=Abstra
ct&list_uids=838220

Now, if that isn't enough, as my memory is taxed this late at night, you
might try a Google search.


Regards,

Carlbewrg


Carlberg Jones
Guanajuato, Gto.
MEXICO


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Re: [Hornlist] Re: new horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Jason A Pawlak
What is "bad acid breath"?
 


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 3/7/04 1:00:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, Hans Pizka writes:

If you mean scary stories, I guess I could tell quite a few. In general 
though, I'd say valve maintenance is pretty straightforward. Oil them 
reasonably, clean the horn out often enough and maybe most important, play every day. 
The people I know that do those things never have any valve trouble. Even 
people with bad acid breath. I think the worst problems happen when the horn 
sits unplayed. The valve oil evaporates but the moisture is still in there and 
starts to cause corrosion. 
You'd probably be safe with 6 or 10 hours of playing daily. Well ok 
maybe a little less.

- Steve Mumford




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RE: [Hornlist] Re: New Horn Maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Hans
Wash the horn through as I told you. Do it carefully. You will see
nothing coming out. Often the "factory dust" is the dirt accumulated by
the many careless people who tried the horn for weeks but returned the
horn, and on and on. The shop keeper never cleaned the horn out after
use nor did the trying person. This is not dirt but ugly left overs from
"fellow players".

Clean it out & use a micro fibre towel to whip away the water drops.
Micro fibre towel is available in super markets.

Don't get hysterical about stupid old stories which might be true, but
only for every hundredth horn or less.

There are enough hysterical out, who lament about such stuff. Once we
got a special built horn back, with the comment, the valves would not
work as they were lame. The customer did not get along with the horn. It
exceeded his potentials as a player & financially. So he oiled the
valves with "gun oil" which produces a perfect slime if in contact with
water or other moist. He did that, to blame us for the sluggish valves.
But when we saw the with slime, we knew immediately what he had done
..

Michael, do not believe every story you receive. Use your brain to
separate (perhaps) true stories from mere legends & "micky mouse
stories".



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 7:53 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: New Horn Maintenance

   Sorry,
   But how can you tell if the horn has "factory dust" left in? Are
there 
tell tale sings I would notice or something?

   Mike
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Re:[Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread germania
I bought an older 668 (which was new, but the warehouse had lost track of
its location) which was very clean and hardly anything came out when I used
my hornwash stuff, the vavles have been fantastic ( though with the 668's I
would suggest that you buy some springs that are a bit tighter, but not
nearly as much as holton or UMI and some softer bumpers). I guess that just
about every horn can benefit from medium tension springs and soft bumpers. 
--
Original Message
From: ""<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:43:38 EST

>In a message dated 3/6/04 1:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, Michael K
writes:
>
>
>> I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I have 
>> to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned
out. 
>> 
>
>I did clean out a new 668 recently and there was some factory gunk in
it, 
>although not as much as some brands.  In the US, the manufacturers used to 
>use vapor degreasers to clean the horns, but they had to give them up for 
>envioronmental and health reasons.   Conn and Holton are using ultrasonic
cleaners 
>but apparently they're not working so well.  I've done several new ones 
>recently that were chock full of stuff.  The kind of stuff left behind is
abrasive so 
>it will wear the valves out prematurely unless it's gotten rid of.  Any
kind 
>of normal washing, flooding with oil etc. won't do much good.  You have to 
>take the valves out and clean the casings, bearings and around the corners
where 
>the stuff is lurking.  It's not easy to get it all.  It will be in such
places 
>as the valve cap threads, stop arms, at the edges where tubes are soldered 
>together, in the valve knuckles.  Any of it that's left will be loosened
up by 
>whatever valve oil you use and will run right back into the valves.
>As I mentioned, the Yamaha I did recently wasn't as bad, but there was 
>some  buffing compound still lurking that had gotten into the valves and
was 
>making them act badly.
>Finding a shop that really understands what's needed won't be easy 
>though! 
>
>- Steve Mumford
>
>
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RE: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Hans Pizka
This is not an answer to my question !!
==

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of c y
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 2:34 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

There is the old story I remember of 1 out of 4 yamaha piston schmidt
model horns having metal shavings in the valves while they were new. I
knew someone who had one that had to sell the horn because the valves
were ruined. 

Hans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Very interesting, very interesting,
but would you kindly tell the crowd,
how horns owned by professionals as well as by amateur look like after a
few weeks or months ? I could tell many stories from what I have seen
..
===



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RE: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread c y
There is the old story I remember of 1 out of 4 yamaha piston schmidt model horns 
having metal shavings in the valves while they were new. I knew someone who had one 
that had to sell the horn because the valves were ruined. 

Hans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Very interesting, very interesting, but would you 
kindly tell the crowd,
how horns owned by professionals as well as by amateur look like after a
few weeks or months ? I could tell many stories from what I have seen
..
===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 5:44 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

In a message dated 3/6/04 1:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, Michael K
writes:


> I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I have 
> to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned
out. 
> 

I did clean out a new 668 recently and there was some factory gunk
in it, 
although not as much as some brands. In the US, the manufacturers used
to 
use vapor degreasers to clean the horns, but they had to give them up
for 
envioronmental and health reasons. Conn and Holton are using
ultrasonic cleaners 
but apparently they're not working so well. I've done several new ones 
recently that were chock full of stuff. The kind of stuff left behind
is abrasive so 
it will wear the valves out prematurely unless it's gotten rid of. Any
kind 
of normal washing, flooding with oil etc. won't do much good. You have
to 
take the valves out and clean the casings, bearings and around the
corners where 
the stuff is lurking. It's not easy to get it all. It will be in such
places 
as the valve cap threads, stop arms, at the edges where tubes are
soldered 
together, in the valve knuckles. Any of it that's left will be loosened
up by 
whatever valve oil you use and will run right back into the valves.
As I mentioned, the Yamaha I did recently wasn't as bad, but there
was 
some buffing compound still lurking that had gotten into the valves and
was 
making them act badly.
Finding a shop that really understands what's needed won't be easy 
though! 

- Steve Mumford


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RE: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

2004-03-07 Thread Hans
Very interesting, very interesting, but would you kindly tell the crowd,
how horns owned by professionals as well as by amateur look like after a
few weeks or months ? I could tell many stories from what I have seen
..
===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 5:44 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

In a message dated 3/6/04 1:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, Michael K
writes:


> I just recieved my new Yamaha YHR668NDII, and was wondering if I have 
> to take it into the shop to get the so called "factory dust" cleaned
out. 
> 

I did clean out a new 668 recently and there was some factory gunk
in it, 
although not as much as some brands.  In the US, the manufacturers used
to 
use vapor degreasers to clean the horns, but they had to give them up
for 
envioronmental and health reasons.   Conn and Holton are using
ultrasonic cleaners 
but apparently they're not working so well.  I've done several new ones 
recently that were chock full of stuff.  The kind of stuff left behind
is abrasive so 
it will wear the valves out prematurely unless it's gotten rid of.  Any
kind 
of normal washing, flooding with oil etc. won't do much good.  You have
to 
take the valves out and clean the casings, bearings and around the
corners where 
the stuff is lurking.  It's not easy to get it all.  It will be in such
places 
as the valve cap threads, stop arms, at the edges where tubes are
soldered 
together, in the valve knuckles.  Any of it that's left will be loosened
up by 
whatever valve oil you use and will run right back into the valves.
As I mentioned, the Yamaha I did recently wasn't as bad, but there
was 
some  buffing compound still lurking that had gotten into the valves and
was 
making them act badly.
Finding a shop that really understands what's needed won't be easy 
though! 

- Steve Mumford


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Re: [Hornlist] Re: New horn maintenance

2004-03-06 Thread John Kowalchuk
At 11:43 PM 3/6/04 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>I did clean out a new 668 recently and there was some factory gunk in it, 

I had to perform the same service on the first to top end Yammies to come
through my shop.  Both were unplayable due to stcking valves even after
being "serviced" by reputable repairers.

John Kowalchuk  maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes
Oshawa, Ontario http://home.ca.inter.net/~horn1

Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it.
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