KR> Jim Morehead's Drag Flap

2010-09-27 Thread laser...@juno.com
I am reminded that Jim took his idea from Tony Bingelis.  Pictures at the
link below.  

http://krbuilder.org/JimMorehead/index.html

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$160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes!
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KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread Larry
I had a vernier (sp) throttle cable get stuck like that on my Mooney once. 
Later was able to spray LPS directly on the outside of the whole cable, the oil 
penetrated right through it, the cable that is. The cable was like new again. I 
had no idea that would work until a mechanic friend told me to do that. I would 
have sworn I needed a new cable.

Larry H

On Sep 27, 2010, at 1:55 PM, "joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com" 
 wrote:

> Dave,
> I did not have any good indication that something was going wrong with the 
> throttle. The clues in hind sight was the first go around that it would not 
> go to low idle more like 1200 rpm and it went to full throttle fine for go 
> around. The next try I shut it down on roll out and restarted a few seconds 
> latter and it dropped to 650 idle on restart. The take off I thought the 
> rpm's were a hundred low or so but climb was still over 800 per minute and no 
> other signs of problems. All this I attributed to having a different prop 
> with a lot more pitch in it. It was not until decent at home that things 
> became apparent. The throttle started to get caught and it was mostly at the 
> 1200 rpm area. Altough it did stick at full throttle briefly and at full idle 
> breifly.
>I pulled the entire cable out of the plane yesterday and tore it apart. It 
> was dirty inside from what seems to be the oil wicking up the cable interior. 
> It seemed like there was excess dirt and oil in the vernier parts. It appears 
> that the vernier is meant to be dry with no oil or grease. I may have in the 
> past gave it a shot of WD-40 thinking that it was good for it. It went back 
> together and seems to operate smoothly, but it is not going back in the 
> plane. I have a new one coming tomorrow. My concern is that with all the 
> yanking and pushing on the cable that the ball bearing could have scared the 
> interior threads of the vernier and might be able to find that spot again. 
> Before I pulled the cable out I tried running it on the ground again 
> beacause I had changed props again and I wanted to see if I could reproduce 
> it on the ground. After the cable was freed up i could not get it to stick 
> agiain with out the engine running. I started up and it seemed normal for a 
> for a few push pulls but i did not rev above 1800 because my truck was still 
> paked i front of me. Then just a suddenly as before it stuck at 1200 rpm and 
> would not move again. I let it ruat that for a few minutes to check prop 
> track and shut it down with just the mixture pull. As soon as i tried it 
> again after shut down it freed up again and kept working. 
>  The carb was tried for operation without the cable connected and worked 
> perfactly but that is not going to stop me from pulling the carb out tonight 
> and making sure the slide is in perfact working condition on the bench.
>  I am not sure what i could have done differently in my annual, 
> maintneance or evaluuation of things that would have prevented this latest 
> adventure. Am I the only one that seems to screw up so much or am I the only 
> one that admits it? 
> Joe Horton, 
> Coopersburg, Pa.
> 
> Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25%
> If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
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KR> Re: GPS verification of Airspeed

2010-09-27 Thread Mark Langford
Todd Thelin wrote:

> Ultimately what I am trying to do is calculate the error in my airspeed
> indicator, which I'm fairly sure is off by about 20 or 30 MPH at the 
> higher
> Indicated Air Speeds, but appears to be much closer to accurate at traffic
> pattern speeds.

At the risk of beathing this horse further, that's what I was trying to say 
earlier.  When I do the four-way GPS thing on a calm day I write down both 
IAS and GPS speeds for each direction (after obtaining "steady state" for a 
minute or two in each direction).  You can hardly go wrong if you're at the 
same IAS for all four readings, with the GPS speed varying by whatever small 
amount of wind you have.  Then I average all four for both IAS (which should 
be the same) and GPS speeds and the error between the two falls right out in 
front of me.

With my current airspeed indicator, I'm almost always within 1 mph of GPS 
speed at anything over about 90 mph, once TAS is calculated based on the 
IAS.  Below that my ASI reads higher than actual, and by doing a four-way 
test at 80 mph, I have a pretty good idea how much it's off.  I also checked 
the ASI calibration (see http://www.n56ml.com/airspeed_calibration/ ) 
throughout the normal flying range so I'd know if I had an instrument 
problem or a static/pitot problem.  After you're sure you've got the 
calibration correct you can do something similar to see if either the static 
or pitot system leaks, while keeping the water out of the aircraft's lines, 
of course.

Mark Langford
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 



KR> Re: GPS verification of Airspeed

2010-09-27 Thread rdrace...@aol.com
Thanks for all the methods posted.  I'll have to try some of them and  see 
if they are any easier than just using the old wind triangle method my dad  
taught me back in the sixties, but which requires an accurate Airspeed 
Indicator  to calculate winds (or if I had an accurate wind speed I could 
calculate the  Airspeed based on the GPS Ground Speed.)

Ultimately what I am trying to do is calculate the error in my airspeed  
indicator, which I'm fairly sure is off by about 20 or 30 MPH at the higher  
Indicated Air Speeds, but appears to be much closer to accurate at traffic  
pattern speeds.  i.e. flying formation with a buddy, who "thinks his  
indicator is accurate", mine matches his at around 80 mph IAS,  but indicates 
170-175 mph when his indicates 145 mph.

Since I'm powered by a VW-2180 I'm pretty sure I'm not really cruising at  
180 MPH. (Although it feels like I am.)

Todd Thelin




KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread Dan Heath
No, Joe, you are the only one who screws up.  The rest of us are not capable
of all those screw-ups.  But, if we were, I am not sure how many of us would
live to tell about it.

I would be pointing at the Carb, rather than the cable.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2010 - KR Gathering in Richmond, Ky - I39
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

Am I the only one that seems to screw up so much or am I the only one that
admits it? 

Joe Horton, 
Coopersburg, Pa.



KR> GPS Verification

2010-09-27 Thread ttcse/Tom
" Take the difference between these GPS groundspeeds to get your windspeed."
 
Correction " Take the difference between these GPS groundspeeds and your IAS to 
get your (close approx) windspeed."

--- On Mon, 9/27/10, ttcse/Tom  wrote:


From: ttcse/Tom 
Subject: Re: KR> GPS Verification
To: "KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Monday, September 27, 2010, 10:37 AM








--- On Mon, 9/27/10, Mark Langford  wrote:


From: Mark Langford 
Subject: Re: KR> GPS Verification
To: "KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Monday, September 27, 2010, 8:33 AM


Todd Thelin

> Can someone walk me through how to get accurate wind
> information  at 7500' with only a GPS?

> This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but if you're looking for your 
> true airspeed, one way is to go to http://www.csgnetwork.com/tasgpscalc.html 
> with your headings (90 degrees apart) and GPS speeds, and fill in the 
> blanks. ..."
> Mark Langford
> n5...@hiwaay.net
> website www.n56ml.com


A very simple approach to both of these...(winds aloft and TAS via GPS)...
 
Fly a nice 360 or 720 at a constant airspeed and rate of turn, say Standard 
Rate or 1/2 Standard Rate.
 
On a downwind heading you'll get the highest GPS groundspeed,  on a upwind 
heading you'll get the lowest GPS groundspeed (factor in about 1 second GPS 
thinking time delay)
 
Note these groundspeeds.  Average these two to get your TAS.   Take the 
difference between these GPS groundspeeds to get your windspeed. 
 
I figured this out long ago with my early Trimble when flying skydivers. 
 
Tom







KR> GPS Verification

2010-09-27 Thread ttcse/Tom


--- On Mon, 9/27/10, Mark Langford  wrote:


From: Mark Langford 
Subject: Re: KR> GPS Verification
To: "KRnet" 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Monday, September 27, 2010, 8:33 AM


Todd Thelin

> Can someone walk me through how to get accurate wind
> information  at 7500' with only a GPS?

> This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but if you're looking for your 
> true airspeed, one way is to go to http://www.csgnetwork.com/tasgpscalc.html 
> with your headings (90 degrees apart) and GPS speeds, and fill in the 
> blanks. ..."
> Mark Langford
> n5...@hiwaay.net
> website www.n56ml.com


A very simple approach to both of these...(winds aloft and TAS via GPS)...
 
Fly a nice 360 or 720 at a constant airspeed and rate of turn, say Standard 
Rate or 1/2 Standard Rate.
 
On a downwind heading you'll get the highest GPS groundspeed,  on a upwind 
heading you'll get the lowest GPS groundspeed (factor in about 1 second GPS 
thinking time delay)
 
Note these groundspeeds.  Average these two to get your TAS.   Take the 
difference between these GPS groundspeeds to get your windspeed. 
 
I figured this out long ago with my early Trimble when flying skydivers. 
 
Tom






KR> Dive Brakes

2010-09-27 Thread Eric Evezard
Hi Netters,
Thanks Patrick and Robin for your input.A netter calculated the load on a 
typical KR dive brake as about 130 lbs,deployed.I tried my brake at 2600 rpm 
static and while the lever pull was firm it was quite comfortable,and gave me a 
ball park idea of what to expect.
Best Regards,
Eric,
South Africa


Fw: RE: KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread Dj Merrill
On 09/27/2010 11:44 AM, joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com wrote:

> I'm not trying to change the world, just my life span
> Joe Horton


Just don't misplace that negative sign!  :-)

-Dj

-- 
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/

Please use Netiquette Guidelines http://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855
Kindly TRIM your email replies and post AFTER the relevant text


Fw: RE: KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com


>Thomas Edison: 10,000 tries to make the light bulb before he got it right
>and changed the entire world.


I'm not trying to change the world, just my life span
Joe Horton






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KR> GPS Verification

2010-09-27 Thread David Goodman
Todd wrote:

> Can someone walk me through how to get accurate wind
> information  at 7500' with only a GPS?

Mark Langford wrote:
But to answer your question, the guys with a Dynon would just tell you to 
look at the screen if you want wind direction and velocity...

Mark's point about checking your winds by doing runs works.  Looking at the
Dynon, or MGL will not work unless the pitot/static system is properly
calibrated.  If the system is five or six knots off, the computer will give
you erroneous winds in heading and intensity as it compares to the GPS.
>From personal experience with the Dynon D-180 and two different pitot/static
systems.

IHS,
Dave "Zipper" Goodman
President, EAA-818










KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread David Goodman
> Am I the only one that seems to screw up so much or am I the only one that

> admits it?
>Joe Horton,

Thomas Edison: 10,000 tries to make the light bulb before he got it right
and changed the entire world.

IHS,
Dave "Zipper" Goodman
President, EAA-818











KR> GPS Verification

2010-09-27 Thread Mark Langford
Todd Thelin

> Can someone walk me through how to get accurate wind
> information  at 7500' with only a GPS?

This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but if you're looking for your 
true airspeed, one way is to go to http://www.csgnetwork.com/tasgpscalc.html 
with your headings (90 degrees apart) and GPS speeds, and fill in the 
blanks.  I usually do it early in the morning on calm days, check winds 
aloft at http://www.usairnet.com/cgi-bin/Winds/Aloft.cgi , and then do a 
four way check averaging the four, or even just a two way check flying into 
and with the wind, averaging the two.  I almost always come up with the same 
exact number, even when I do each method twice.

But to answer your question, the guys with a Dynon would just tell you to 
look at the screen if you want wind direction and velocity...

Mark Langford
n5...@hiwaay.net
website www.n56ml.com



KR> GPS Verification

2010-09-27 Thread rdrace...@aol.com
I've seen reference to using GPS to verify cruise speeds before, and this  
seems like a great way to get an accurate ground speed, which is a great  
starting place for calculating airspeed if the actual wind speed and direction 
 is known.  Can someone walk me through how to get accurate wind 
information  at 7500' with only a GPS?

Todd Thelin
Spanaway, WA


In a message dated 9/26/2010 4:56:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
n5...@hiwaay.net writes:

And then  there's always three way 
GPS verification, assuming the plane is flown at  an altitude that is 
equivalent to 7500' on a standard pressure and  temperature day.


KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread Mark Jones
> Am I the only one that seems to screw up so much or am I the only one that 
> admits it?
>Joe Horton,

Are you kidding. I have you beat by miles and miles..

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flyk...@charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com




KR> Cruise Speed/Dive Brakes

2010-09-27 Thread David Goodman
Mike wrote:

"Jim Morehead's has the right idea for a drag flap.  It is large, goes
down to almost 90º, has a very nicely designed deployment lever, and
worked beautifully.  It really slowed the plane down with no fuss.  I
would copy Jim's design if I were building a KR with a belly drag flap."

Having 12 hours in this plane myself I agree that Jim's belly board design
was/is excellent.  It has three notches of flaps, but the last notch was not
usable under most of the circumstances I flew the plane in.

When installing and using a belly board, consider your ability to fly away
at any setting you may have on it.  I am not sure Jim's plane had a fly-away
capability with one person in it at temperatures above 90 degrees (SL, VW
engine).  It did have fly-away capability with two people in it at those
temperatures at the second notch of flaps, about 45 degrees as I recall.
Two notches dropped the speed 10 MPH and made seeing the runway over the
nose very easy

No fly-away means the pilot's options are limited to landing on the given
pass.  I am not comfortable in this realm unless the landing is assured or
it is critical to be on the ground on the first pass.

Going from two notches to zero caused the plane to pitch downward
noticeably, not uncontrollably but enough that it could be a problem if the
pilot was trying to get speed brake off the plane in close proximity to the
ground and was not paying attention to the nose.  The plane was not tested
at full speed brake but this effect would certainly have been magnified.

Use caution, think everything through, and go for it... wisely.  Jim's
design was very well thought out and worth looking at, especially the handle
design.

IHS,
Dave "Zipper" Goodman
President, EAA-818










KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread Jeff York

 Joe said,  am I the only one
 to screw up so much or am I the only one that admits it? 
Joe Horton, 
Coopersburg, Pa.rous 

Just look at so many of my posts and you will see I screw up as much or more 
than you. Remember, I was the one limping around on crutches with a broken foot 
at the last gathering. That was caused by a screw up with a ladder a chain saw 
and a tree. If it wasn't for bad luck, I would have no luck at all and I got 
hit with that luck again last week.

By the way Joe, I have some nice video I took at the gathering of your plane. 
Maybe I can figure out how to get it to you via email.

Jeff York

Georgetown scott county airport for 2012

Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25%
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KR> Throttle cable update

2010-09-27 Thread joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
Dave,
I did not have any good indication that something was going wrong with the 
throttle. The clues in hind sight was the first go around that it would not go 
to low idle more like 1200 rpm and it went to full throttle fine for go around. 
The next try I shut it down on roll out and restarted a few seconds latter and 
it dropped to 650 idle on restart. The take off I thought the rpm's were a 
hundred low or so but climb was still over 800 per minute and no other signs of 
problems. All this I attributed to having a different prop with a lot more 
pitch in it. It was not until decent at home that things became apparent. The 
throttle started to get caught and it was mostly at the 1200 rpm area. Altough 
it did stick at full throttle briefly and at full idle breifly.
I pulled the entire cable out of the plane yesterday and tore it apart. It 
was dirty inside from what seems to be the oil wicking up the cable interior. 
It seemed like there was excess dirt and oil in the vernier parts. It appears 
that the vernier is meant to be dry with no oil or grease. I may have in the 
past gave it a shot of WD-40 thinking that it was good for it. It went back 
together and seems to operate smoothly, but it is not going back in the plane. 
I have a new one coming tomorrow. My concern is that with all the yanking and 
pushing on the cable that the ball bearing could have scared the interior 
threads of the vernier and might be able to find that spot again. 
 Before I pulled the cable out I tried running it on the ground again 
beacause I had changed props again and I wanted to see if I could reproduce it 
on the ground. After the cable was freed up i could not get it to stick agiain 
with out the engine running. I started up and it seemed normal for a for a few 
push pulls but i did not rev above 1800 because my truck was still paked i 
front of me. Then just a suddenly as before it stuck at 1200 rpm and would not 
move again. I let it ruat that for a few minutes to check prop track and shut 
it down with just the mixture pull. As soon as i tried it again after shut down 
it freed up again and kept working. 
  The carb was tried for operation without the cable connected and worked 
perfactly but that is not going to stop me from pulling the carb out tonight 
and making sure the slide is in perfact working condition on the bench.
  I am not sure what i could have done differently in my annual, 
maintneance or evaluuation of things that would have prevented this latest 
adventure. Am I the only one that seems to screw up so much or am I the only 
one that admits it? 
Joe Horton, 
Coopersburg, Pa.

Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25%
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
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KR> Cruise Speed/Dive Brakes

2010-09-27 Thread Kenneth Wiltrout
6399U ( KR2S ) has been flying now for 10 years, the first 2 wo the belly 
board. All I can say is the difference is remarkable, if I need to I can get 
down on an 1800' runway I can, and wo I used up at least another 500' minimum. 
With the KR it's all about killing the float. I tried brakes with and wo 
holes---I think the holes helped.
Kenny
Kutztown, Pa

--- On Mon, 9/27/10, laser...@juno.com  wrote:

From: laser...@juno.com 
Subject: KR> Cruise Speed/Dive Brakes
To: kr...@mylist.net
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Monday, September 27, 2010, 2:55 AM

I've always assumed cruise speed meant, for a normally aspirated engine,
full throttle at 7-8 thousand feet.

*

My belly board has holes.  It came that way.  A long time ago I was
wondering if it would be more effective if I filled in the holes and so
did some research regarding why WWII dive bombers had holes in their drag
surfaces.  It turns out that lightening the metal was a consideration,
primary however was that without the holes the planes became very
difficult to control once in a dive.  Putting holes in the metal helped
with this control issue, but it also reduced drag.  

I found that in covering up my holes with tape did make the drag flap
more effective.  The tape was a periodic hassle to replace though, so
until I get around to cutting some wood to exactly match the
various-sized holes - that is to say, doing the job correctly - I'm
living with the holes.  It only goes down about 45º degrees, if that, and
does not make a lot of difference.  But it helps, so I always use it.    

Jim Morehead's has the right idea for a drag flap.  It is large, goes
down to almost 90º, has a very nicely designed deployment lever, and
worked beautifully.  It really slowed the plane down with no fuss.  I
would copy Jim's design if I were building a KR with a belly drag flap.  

Mike
KSEE

Moms Asked to Return to School
Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ca04025a704b1e6676m04vuc

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KR> Glassing wings

2010-09-27 Thread Peter Drake
Robin

I layed up the whole top and then the whole bottom with a 2" overlap at the 
leading edge (where its needed). I then propped the wing up on the trailing 
edge and the laid up the second layer forward of the main spar in one piece.
Each to his own...

Peter Drake


- Original Message - 
From: "Robin Macdonald" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 8:52 PM
Subject: KR> Glassing wings


I am in the process of sanding my wings & laying up the glass.

Many thanks for your reply

Robin,

NZ


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KR> Cruise Speed/Dive Brakes

2010-09-27 Thread laser...@juno.com
I've always assumed cruise speed meant, for a normally aspirated engine,
full throttle at 7-8 thousand feet.

*

My belly board has holes.  It came that way.  A long time ago I was
wondering if it would be more effective if I filled in the holes and so
did some research regarding why WWII dive bombers had holes in their drag
surfaces.  It turns out that lightening the metal was a consideration,
primary however was that without the holes the planes became very
difficult to control once in a dive.  Putting holes in the metal helped
with this control issue, but it also reduced drag.  

I found that in covering up my holes with tape did make the drag flap
more effective.  The tape was a periodic hassle to replace though, so
until I get around to cutting some wood to exactly match the
various-sized holes - that is to say, doing the job correctly - I'm
living with the holes.  It only goes down about 45º degrees, if that, and
does not make a lot of difference.  But it helps, so I always use it.

Jim Morehead's has the right idea for a drag flap.  It is large, goes
down to almost 90º, has a very nicely designed deployment lever, and
worked beautifully.  It really slowed the plane down with no fuss.  I
would copy Jim's design if I were building a KR with a belly drag flap.  

Mike
KSEE

Moms Asked to Return to School
Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ca04025a704b1e6676m04vuc