KR> Wicks spruce kit

[Adam Tippin]

I had a similar issue as I am also starting a new build. I believe the
wicks kit quote included the mahogany plywood. aircraft spruce is just
spruce. Look for those details.
On Sep 12, 2013 9:12 PM,  wrote:

> Hi everyone, First I would like to thank Rodger and Larry for showing me
> there planes this last week or so. It was great seeing them and getting
> vary
> excited about my project.
> Tomorrow is my big day. I go for my flight physical. If I pass it I'll
> start order plans and start cleaning my garage out. If I fail. I guess
>  I'll
> have to start my honey do list. Starting with remodeling the kitchen. Boy!
>  I
> hope I pass. I haven't flown for 25 years and now with the kids out it's my
> time. Over the past years I had some health issues which  I don't  think
> there disqualifying. Heck, I got a DOT physical for being a over the road
> truck driver. Wish me luck .
> Know for my question.  I went over to Wicks the other day and got a  price
> for the spruce kit for the KR-2S for just under $1500.00. I called Spruce
> Aircraft and there price is around $1,100.00. I don't know if the there
> kits
> are  different or what. I asked both stores what the price for a 5/8" x
> 5/8"  spruce strip was and Wicks was $1.19 a ft and Spruce Aircraft was
>  $1.41
> a ft. I don't get it. I would like to support Wicks being there right down
> the street. But that's a lot of money. Any ideas what's going on.
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>

KR> Wicks spruce kit

[Mark Langford]

"PPaulVsk" wrote:

>  I went over to Wicks the other day and got a  price
> for the spruce kit for the KR-2S for just under $1500.00. I called Spruce
> Aircraft and there price is around $1,100.00. I don't know if the there 
> kits
> are  different or what. I asked both stores what the price for a 5/8" x
> 5/8"  spruce strip was and Wicks was $1.19 a ft and Spruce Aircraft was 
> $1.41
> a ft. I don't get it. I would like to support Wicks being there right down
> the street. But that's a lot of money.

I'd get an quote from AS&S that includes shipping, and then one from Wicks 
where you pick it up, and you'll either find it cheaper, or Wicks would 
match it.  There's a lot to be said for supporting some competition to the 
biggest player in the industry, especially if it's local...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> kr spinner

[Gabriele Morino]

Hi krnetters,

anybody has a spinner original kr or 9 1/2 dia.? or can tell who sells it ??

Thanks,? Yoshio

KR> kr spinner

[Dan Heath]

I think Steve Bennett at Great Plains sells it. Gpasc.com


Dan Heath

On Sep 13, 2013, at 7:50 AM, Gabriele Morino  wrote:

> Hi krnetters,
> 
> anybody has a spinner original kr or 9 1/2 dia.  or can tell who sells it ??
> 
> Thanks,  Yoshio
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> Water Based Paint

[smwood]

My paint has been on for five years.  I selected the acrylic latex house 
paint specifically for its flexibility.  Have not had any cracking or 
pealing except for the one area I had Poly-Fiber Smooth Prime.  I sanded off 
all that Smooth Prime and started over with bare plywood and fiberglass. 
The base is Micro-balloons and resin on the plywood and fiberglass.  Used 
epoxy resin on the lumber and parts made with epoxy resin, and vinyl ester 
resin on the Diehl wing skins.  First Primer coat is on the micro, not 
plywood or fiber glass.  On subsequent coats, you're just painting paint. 
Did I mention the oil separator for the air compressor?
I don't know what brand or procedure was used on the Lancair 360 or how old 
or weathering involved.  My KR-2 lives in a hangar out of the sun and 
precipitation.
To paraphrase Larry's disclaimer: Your results may vary.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
--
> Water based paint = a big mess... House paint in perticular...
>
> It's not flexible enough to actually adhere without cracking/peeling...
>
> Prior owner of my project used the stuff UGH!
>
> On 9/11/2013 7:32 PM, Lee Van Dyke wrote:
>> I'm working on I lancair 360 that has water-based paint on the underside. 
>> This is the second Lancair that decided to land with the gear up.  The 
>> problem I see with the water-based paint is the preped surface was too 
>> smooth.  I would start the first Coat with nothing more that 220 grit. 
>> With the final coat nothing more than 400 grit.  This planes prep surface 
>> was so smooth I was able to pull off big sheets of paint.
>>
>> Lee Van Dyke
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2013, at 11:24 AM, "Sid Wood"  wrote:
>>
>>> I used Acrylic Latex exterior house paint.  Lowe's sells it for $26/gal. 
>>> I sprayed with a conventional qt. cup gun also from Lowe's using my 1/3 
>>> hp air compressor with inline pressure regulator set for 30 psi and an 
>>> oil separator.  I used 3 coats primer and 3 coats top coat semi-gloss. 
>>> Light hand wet sanding between each primer coat with 400 grit; each top 
>>> coat wet hand sanded with 600 grit.  Sprayed two coats gloss, no 
>>> sanding.  Gloss goes on like water, so have to drop the air pressure to 
>>> 10 psi and move the gun fast or it will run.  Perhaps should have used a 
>>> smaller jet for the gun for the gloss coats.  For the top color coats I 
>>> had Lowe's tint the white paint with more white pigment; that makes the 
>>> paint noticeably even whiter.  Flag bunting trim is vinyl stick-on 
>>> decals made by a local sign shop.  The fuselage decals are 10 feet long. 
>>> Costs were $142 for paint and related supplies and $168 for the vinyl 
>>> decals.
>>>
>>> Sid Wood
>>> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
>>> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Robert
>>> What manufacturers  water based paint and primer are you using?  Satin 
>>> or
>>> gloss?? Will there be a top coat of clear, also water born? Are you 
>>> using
>>> HVLP spray equipment?
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I was hoping to have my KR for this years gathering, but it's not in in 
>>> the
>>> great scheme of things. I am making good progress. It took me some time 
>>> to
>>> warm up to waterborne paint but after using the primer I'm convinced 
>>> that
>>> it's a great product, and it doesn't have all the nasty smells.
>>> See you at the gathering!
>>>
>>> http://s449.photobucket.com/user/rkpsk1/library/
>>>
>>> Robert Pesak
>>>
>>> Hermitage, Tn.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> 

KR> Water Based Paint

[Michael Lineback]

I would think that modern Acrylic Latex would be a very good paint with
regard to flexibility. If the surface is properly prepared and it is
applied properly it should be fine for a number of years. I know that
Behr has a 10 + year house paint that is highly recommended over wood
siding and trim. That is subject to repeated expansion and contraction
with drastic temperature moisture cycles etc.

I was acquainted with a gentleman who was a retired chemist from DuPont and
he was very emphatic that the current families of water-based paints were
more than adequate for the job whether it be painting your house, or
painting a boat.   I have very good results with DuPont branded paints on
my wooden canoe, I painted the hull that was made out of 6 strips per side
of Aircraft grade 5 ply birch.Would think that an airplane would not be
much more difficult with regard to environment and exposure etc.

Even the automobile industry is moving to low VOC water based paints to
paint new cars.I know that these are a bit different than Acrylic Latex
but it is a similar technology.  Also there is a longer cycle between
coats, 15 min for the solvent based paints and 45 + min between coats of
the water-based.

HTH,

Michael


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 1:07 PM, smwood  wrote:

> My paint has been on for five years.  I selected the acrylic latex house
> paint specifically for its flexibility.  Have not had any cracking or
> pealing except for the one area I had Poly-Fiber Smooth Prime.  I sanded
> off all that Smooth Prime and started over with bare plywood and
> fiberglass. The base is Micro-balloons and resin on the plywood and
> fiberglass.  Used epoxy resin on the lumber and parts made with epoxy
> resin, and vinyl ester resin on the Diehl wing skins.  First Primer coat is
> on the micro, not plywood or fiber glass.  On subsequent coats, you're just
> painting paint. Did I mention the oil separator for the air compressor?
> I don't know what brand or procedure was used on the Lancair 360 or how
> old or weathering involved.  My KR-2 lives in a hangar out of the sun and
> precipitation.
> To paraphrase Larry's disclaimer: Your results may vary.
>
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> --**--**--
>
>  Water based paint = a big mess... House paint in perticular...
>>
>> It's not flexible enough to actually adhere without cracking/peeling...
>>
>> Prior owner of my project used the stuff UGH!
>>
>> On 9/11/2013 7:32 PM, Lee Van Dyke wrote:
>>
>>> I'm working on I lancair 360 that has water-based paint on the
>>> underside. This is the second Lancair that decided to land with the gear
>>> up.  The problem I see with the water-based paint is the preped surface was
>>> too smooth.  I would start the first Coat with nothing more that 220 grit.
>>> With the final coat nothing more than 400 grit.  This planes prep surface
>>> was so smooth I was able to pull off big sheets of paint.
>>>
>>> Lee Van Dyke
>>>
>>> On Sep 11, 2013, at 11:24 AM, "Sid Wood" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>  I used Acrylic Latex exterior house paint.  Lowe's sells it for
 $26/gal. I sprayed with a conventional qt. cup gun also from Lowe's using
 my 1/3 hp air compressor with inline pressure regulator set for 30 psi and
 an oil separator.  I used 3 coats primer and 3 coats top coat semi-gloss.
 Light hand wet sanding between each primer coat with 400 grit; each top
 coat wet hand sanded with 600 grit.  Sprayed two coats gloss, no sanding.
  Gloss goes on like water, so have to drop the air pressure to 10 psi and
 move the gun fast or it will run.  Perhaps should have used a smaller jet
 for the gun for the gloss coats.  For the top color coats I had Lowe's tint
 the white paint with more white pigment; that makes the paint noticeably
 even whiter.  Flag bunting trim is vinyl stick-on decals made by a local
 sign shop.  The fuselage decals are 10 feet long. Costs were $142 for paint
 and related supplies and $168 for the vinyl decals.

 Sid Wood
 Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
 Mechanicsville, MD, USA


 --**--**--
 Robert
 What manufacturers  water based paint and primer are you using?  Satin
 or
 gloss?? Will there be a top coat of clear, also water born? Are you
 using
 HVLP spray equipment?
 Patrick


 Hi everyone,

 I was hoping to have my KR for this years gathering, but it's not in in
 the
 great scheme of things. I am making good progress. It took me some time
 to
 warm up to waterborne paint but after using the primer I'm convinced
 that
 it's a great product, and it doesn't have all the nasty smells.
 See you at the gathering!

 http://s449.photobucket.com/**user/rkpsk1/library/

 Robert Pesa

KR> to glass or not to glass

[Robert Boyd]

Is it necessary or common to cover the fuselage with a layer of glass? Or
just a coat of epoxy? I seem to be getting told a few different things buy
some guys in the area so I thought that I would put it out to all the
experts in the KR2 family.
Bob in Frazeysburg Ohio

KR> to glass or not to glass

[Dan Heath]

Some say use a layer of deck cloth, some, me, say NO way.  No layer of resin 
needed if no glass. Just use s good filler primer. That is what I did and you 
cannot tell it is wood. You will have to fill and sand either way, so why add 
the work and weight. 

Dan Heath

On Sep 13, 2013, at 3:16 PM, Robert Boyd  wrote:

> Is it necessary or common to cover the fuselage with a layer of glass? Or
> just a coat of epoxy? I seem to be getting told a few different things buy
> some guys in the area so I thought that I would put it out to all the
> experts in the KR2 family.
> Bob in Frazeysburg Ohio
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> to glass or not to glass

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

At 02:16 PM 9/13/2013, you wrote:
>Is it necessary or common to cover the fuselage with a layer of glass?
>Bob in Frazeysburg Ohio


I'm convinced that a layer of deck cloth (see below from Wick's 
catalog) will be as light and a better wood seal than any fill and 
sand method.  Tony Bingelis recommends it in one of his books.  A 
layer of deck cloth on the wood fuselage requires very little sanding 
/ finishing before priming and uses very little resin.  I used deck 
cloth over my wing lay up while the KR cloth resin was still wet.  It 
soaked up any excess resin from below needing very little additional 
resin to wet and leaves a surface nearly ready for priming.  If you 
are old enough to remember how smooth the silk stockings were that 
women used to wear, you will understand what a fine weave the glass 
has.  If you hate sanding you'll love deck cloth.

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/all-categories/deck-cloth-1080/1080?plpver=10&categid=100&prodid=1997&origin=keyword

( 50" width, 1.45 oz. per sq. yd. threads per inch: 60 length x 47 
width. Commonly used over wood or plywood
  or last layer of fiberglass lay up giving the surface a fine weave 
for finishing.)

Larry Flesner