KR> DIY O2 System(was: Hypoxia)
>From this PoA thread: http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3399 Go to a welding shop or a medical supply shop and BUY outright the biggest Aluminum cylinder you can- a Super "D" or 50 cu. ft. Why? Because a fill of the smallest compared to the biggest runs the $13.00 up to $18.00. Getting the fill is the inconvenience. Buy a stepdown regulator (welding type) for ~$40 and put it on top. Buy an 8 foot piece of 80 PSI hose and the appropriate CGA 540 fittings (or have the shop do it for you) and run from the end of the stepdown regulator to another CGA 540 fitting. At this end, buy a Skyox regulator and install it. The Skyox regulator is expensive ($200) but is a precision machined device that automatically doubles flow if two are plugged in, triples for three, etc. It doesn't leak and it's near bulletproof. Now you have a tank strapped down in the baggage compartment, and complete control in between the PIC seats. This way you have 1) huge O2 supply, = 30 man hours at 18,000 on cannulas e.g, more than you have fuel, and on some trips you will be able to make the return w/o a refill. Fill it at your local welding shop. Yes, I know all about ABO, but they all come from the same 25,000 gallon tank. Even medical oxygen, too. I also carry a 19 cu ft. steel tank that is labeled "ABO" for that emergency refill at an FBO. I use it when I have six on board (The Skyox has four ports). Total cost will be about $300. And, I spend ALL my time in the oxygen altitudes. I agree with the advice to buy a pulse oximeter. It's the cheapest monitor for the only master processor w/o a backup device- your head. There's nothing from King or Garmin near the price...well, maybe a blind encoder. The author of that(Dr. Bruce Chien) flies a "known ice" PA34 200T, so his advice for a 50cuft cylinder might not be appropriate for a KR...
KR> Hypoxia
Ray, the takeaway for you is that your tingling symptoms will always be there if you are experiencing hypoxia. Hopefully you felt some at least some flushing also, that is commonly associated with the tingling. Everyone reacts slightly differently, but the symptoms are repeatable so that when you recognize them, you can take immediate action. John Patterson
KR> Gear Placement
I appreciate all the comments and concerns about main wheel gear placement for a tri-gear KR-2. I know the main gear placement on my KR-2 needs improvement. I can work that. One pronouncement is conspicuously missing: What should the horizontal distance be in inches from the datum to the gear axels? I can work with that number also. What is it? Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA
KR> Hypoxia
Hello All, Not KR related, but definitely aviation related. The 99's are having a convention this week in New Orleans and one of the seminars was/is on hypoxia and is open to all pilots in the area. I went there (instead of listening to Mark) on Wednesday and it was excellent. it's one thing to read about what happens if you fly too high without oxygen, it's another to feel it. The class was about an hour and a half and went over the types of hypoxia, symptoms, ATC examples (very cool) and what to do about it. Then you get to go to a chamber that they equalize at 25,000'. And the thing is, the list of symptoms are only potential symptoms and everyone reacts differently. Nausea, headaches, tunnel vision etc. So you start at 25,000'. They say you have 3 minutes (at that altitude) to get yourself out of trouble. That may be too generous. We had an oxygen sensor on us (to measure oxygen in the blood) and you start at 97% or higher. And then it drops. by the time you are in the 60's you are done. We also had a clipboard to log the onset of any symptoms - every minute. And we had a sheet with a simple maze and some math problems. In my case, the only symptom I felt was a tingling in my fingertips. But by the third minute, I could not do the maze (kindergarden level) nor any simple math problems. I could barely write a number. I simply could not focus. 8x7 was impossible. Once you put the mask on, after 3 or 4 deep breaths, you are back to normal. it's that quick. And of course the reality is that you can suffer from hypoxia at much, much lower altitudes (they said start worrying about it over 8,000 - especially at night). For me, the problem is that I didn't get a headache or nausea or anything I could react to. I simply lost the ability to focus. Which means I could not even know that I am losing control. But it was a heck of a thing and very instructive in highlighting the dangers of hypoxia. I strongly recommend that if you ever get the chance to experience it - do it. And before I do any high flying I will get an oxygen setup. Ray New Orleans Ray_pilot New Orleans
KR> Gear placement
Of course if you ever land this thing really hard on that leg, the discontinuity in the leg where the old holes were drilled will likely be the place it breaks, and if it breaks you may have prop/crank/spar issues afterwards. There is something to be said for new gear legs if you ditch the rearward extending plates idea. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> Gear placement
Now that I notice that gap at the very bottom of the gear, the bottom bolts would see some tension, rather than compression, but the gear bracket itself is still doing most of the resistance to bending. I'd let the available hole spacing be my guide, but sandwiching the bottom of the leg a bit with a small aluminum plate (or large AN equivalent of a fender washer) would likely satisfy me, if it were my plane. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> Gear placement
Larry Howell wrote: >I'm not sure I would want to move the first bolt at the bottom closest to >the shear web further aft out on the bracket but that may be structurally >ok, I don't know that though. Maybe Mark Langford can tell us that. I think the bolts at the bottom of the leg are just there to position and locate the leg, since they are mostly in compression with some shear when the gear is bent outward when landing. The ones at the top are far more critical, since they are mostly in tension. See http://www.n56ml.com/may22_98k.jpg to see what I mean. Sid's decision, however... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> Gear placement
Hi Sid, I don't want to come across as some sort of know it all or expert on KR landing gear because I have only moved the landing gear brackets from the front side of a KR2 spar/shear web to the aft side and installed new Diehl glass gear legs once on a KR2 to transform a taildragger to a trigear nose dragger. Reading what you have written in the top paragraph below leads me to think that you did not place the leading edge of the Diehl gear against the spar shear web if you had at least two more inches of aft movement of the main wheels. It sounds like you moved the top of the gear leg aft leaving the gear leg at the bottom edge of the bracket fully forward against the bracket to move the wheel two inches forward. If the glass leg is firmly against the bracket top to bottom there shouldn't be any way to move the wheel fore or aft. It is just where it's supposed to be. If you did place the leading edge of the glass gear flush against the bracket then the two inches you mentioned could only be gained if you were to move the bottom of the gear on the bracket flange aft and leave the top against the bracket I guess you could get some movement there. I'm not sure I would want to move the first bolt at the bottom closest to the shear web further aft out on the bracket but that may be structurally ok, I don't know that though. Maybe Mark Langford can tell us that. I have done a lot of composite work in my airplane building years so I know a few things that may work for you to salvage your current main gear. Wetted flox is considered structural. I would think you could wet your drilled holes in your fiberglass main gear with pure resin first then mix a resin rich flox mixture to fill your existing holes, let cure, then re-drill your holes to set the wheels where they need to be. At some point in the hole flox filling process stick tape over one side of the holes to form a wall on the bottom side of the holes to make sure the holes are filled properly from the top side. Use a tooth pick to gently stab, push, knead the wet mixture into the holes as it fills the holes to keep air out so you have a solid structure when it cures with no air voids. Don't forget to paint the walls of the holes with pure resin first so your flox mixture gets good adhesion to the walls. If it would make you feel better, after the holes are cured, sand the area down some and re-wrap with bid before drilling new holes. Use Cotton Flox NOT glass balls/microspheres. Just my suggestion to reuse your current landing gear. Larry H Don't know what the moment for the elevator would be at 55 knots, but now I am somewhat sure there is plenty of authority at that tail. At the time I could have easily set the main wheels another 2 inches aft by choosing where to drill the holes in the gear leg. No where was there any direction as to exactly what the number should be. I went conservative regarding the elevator authority consideration. > > Sid Wood > Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 > Mechanicsville, MD, USA > >
KR> KR Gathering 2014 Update!
Steve, please sign me up for the gathering. Dan Prichard Portland Oregon Fri - Sun attending + banquet 1 Xlg shirt + 1 hat Not bringing the KR in. No spouse coming. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 4, 2014, at 8:43 AM, "Steve G. via KRnet" > wrote: > > Ok, it seems that copy and paste is not working. I have had offers of > fixing the submit button on the page to send me the info. I found that the > page was made in Front Page or Pagemaker. I may have an old copy somewhere > so will try that first. If not I will be soliciting the help from those who > offered. Thank you for stepping up! :) > > I have received some registration emails and will add you to the list. > Other than those who specifically listed their preferences, I didn't get > specifics from anyone. I will be in touch with a few of you today. > > Thanks for your patience while I muddle through this. > > Steve Glover > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
