KR> Corvair engines
Netters During my engine re-assembly I found an oil galley plug that was removed when the engine was cleaned. Not knowing this engine as well as others I have built, I do not know where to return it. I removed it from one end, and I believe that it resides right behind the cam gear, but I do not know which side, since there are 2 holes threaded there. Can anyone help me out please, Colin
KR> T-Shirts
I think we should have T-Shirts made up to celebrate and get the momentum going that Jim talked about: Slogan: 35 for the 35th!! Thanks Bob for the help on the Corvair. I plan to fly to the next Corvair College, Sun n Fun and the next Gathering, just to mention a few Colin Rainey KSFB
KR> Like Nascar and Football/Baseball
Not to upset anyone, but I have been thinking for a while that we should have 2 events a year. Nascar has 2 major races at the same tracks each year, football and baseball play the same teams at least twice, and clubs like the Bonanza Club and Mooney Club meet once a week to once a month for breakfast/brunch in local areas. Even the bike runs I attend happen twice a year, Biketoberfest in the Fall, and Bike Week in the Spring. It seems to me that if it were organized well with 2 different hosts, maybe 2 slightly different locations, one event sometime in the Spring, and one in the Fall, more people could attend one or the other, or both. The biggest thing I can see is that it would raise the enthusiasm of the builders, because they could meet with their friends more often, touch and feel KRs more often, and just raise overall camaraderie of the KR community. Sun n Fun is fine, but KRs are dwarfed at Sun n Fun, and too much of that event is commercialized (no offense Virgil). I have been to Sun n Fun 4 times and feel that there is NOT enough contact with actual builders, whether it be kit built or plans built. The Gathering does that. If agreeable we could call them The Gathering in the Fall, and The Get Together in the Spring. The world of bikes and Nascar, and sports have seen no detriment to twice a year, I don't believe we would either. The Southern Rebels have been talking for 2 years now about having an early warm-up anyhow. Ok, said my piece and then some... Back to finishing the assembly of my Corvair... Hey Langford, when you get a chance, let me know about your test prop you ran your engine on please, off net, thanks. Colin Rainey KSFB N96TA
KR> Engine update
Well, finally had time today to drive over and pickup my motor mount from William Wynne's hangar. He has had it ready since Monday but work kept me from getting it until today. I ordered it just before Sun n Fun knowing that it would be after the flyin before it was ready. Clark's Corvair running behind on the OT 10 cams delayed me a month waiting, so I had told WW to not be in a hurry about the mount. Not thinking about the summer being that busy, WW got committed to two other flyin's and Oshkosh, so only in the last week has the hangar crew gotten back in town in full to get back to normal and begin the routine of engine support again. As usual they were all in the middle of some development work on several different engines at the same time, one of which was a re-build of a Corvair motor that the owner said " It has all kinds of special stuff inside!". It was so special that it would not even run. Kevin and Gus had just finished going ALL the way through it to make it right, and in Kevin's words, "It would be easier to explain what I didn't have to change or fix." The Zodiac is sporting a new Sensenich wooden prop that almost looked like it was dripping clear lacquer. WW also showed me the new KR cowling molds and told me that his mold guy is getting 10 cowlings ready as we speak. I just missed Bill Clapp as he was leaving to fly back to Valdosta sporting the new cowling, so you guys at the Gathering will see it before me I think. WW is already talking about and getting geared up for Corvair College #9 in November. Should be a good one. We hope to make an appearance at that one. Assembling the motor tonight and hoping to move the plane home maybe this weekend for the beginning of the mounting of the motor. Stay tuned Colin Rainey KSFB N96TA
KR> Assembly tip
For those of you building a Corvair engine and are not fortunate enough to have an extra block lying around, I discovered a handy helper for installing the pistons into the cylinders. By installing the ring compression tool first, then inserting the piston/rod assembly carefully into the cylinder while holding it straight up and down, seating the skirt in the cylinder up to the beginning of the ring compression tool, your rod will come out the bottom to the point where you can see the rod beam above the rod big end. Place the whole assembly on top of a Duke's mayonnaise (or brand of your choice with same size top opening). The plastic top will insert inside the cylinder, but allow the rod to go inside of the jar, preventing it from scratching the walls. The wide bottom of the jar acts to stabilize the whole assembly while tapping the piston into the cylinder. Once the piston is seated into the cylinder just below the deck end, you can lift the whole assembly clear and be ready to install into the block. Best part is the jar is free, since I am already using the mayonnaise anyway, and saving the jars for shop organizers! Happy building... Colin KSFB N96TA
KR> Auto & Aircraft engines
A search in the archives on the topic of auto engines vs. aircraft engines should reveal a large amount of data relating to their design differences and several educated opinions concerning their use airplanes. At the risk of over simplification, the biggest difference that I now see between the two is the airplane engine has been engineered to handle the specific loads and working conditions that the airplane and prop combination have been designed for, at the sacrifice of smooth running at all other rpms, etc... Much the way a racing engine is designed to do best in a smaller area of operation, so does the airplane engine. The auto engine however is expected to operate in a much wider range, and behave well. This causes it to be a bigger example of the compromises the designers have to make to achieve this. Hence computers coming on the scene to make adapting to these demands easier. Airplane engines are also now following suit due to public demand for more performance and economy, with better engines. An auto engine properly matched to a PSRU assembly, and prop the way a turbo-jet is matched will live a very long time if maintained with the same attention the airplane engine receives. The same holds true for the direct drive if it is properly modified to do the job it is asked to do, matched with an appropriate prop, and operated and maintained as one would the airplane engine. Colin Rainey
KR> Increasing weight and rearward CG
To expand on what Brian stated, there are some constants in aviation about CG movement and adding weight that we CIF's teach. More thorough discussions can be found in the Pilot's Handbook of Aeronautical Knowledge, and the Airplane Flying Handbook both available at any decent pilot store printed by ASA. First when adding weight aircraft speeds will go up, stall speeds, lift off speed, climb speed (to achieve the same rate of climb as solo if enough hp is available) while cruise speed typically reduces as does top speed (depending on CG & hp). A look at two aircraft that are similar will show that all things the same, the heavier plane will fly slower at the same power setting. Again, I will not re-write the book here, more can be found in the two texts I referenced, and I strongly recommend ALL who are testing read or re-read these two texts at least where aircraft performance and behavior sections are in them. A rearward CG changes the airplane's flight characteristics in known ways. What isn't known is HOW MUCH each KR example will be effected in these ways. An aft or rearward CG makes the airplane fly faster due to the supplemental lift received from the tail due to having to hold the tail up with elevator, since the weight moving back tends to lower the tail. This action allows a lower angle of attack and less drag for the available horsepower, hence flies faster. Better fuel economy, range and speed result. The downside to this CG location is that the arm, or simply the leverage the elevator has over the rest of the plane just got less. Your "prybar" for moving the tail around just got shorter by how ever many inches the CG moved to the rear. This has the effect of making the elevator less effective, since you cannot change how much it moves, or how big it is. So to get the same response from the plane requires larger inputs. How much depends on the speed, the slower the speed, the more drastic the effect is. It is possible to get slow enough that you will lose virtually all effective control of the plane and not be able to raise the tail or maintain level flight due to lack of elevator effectiveness. Remember you weigh more also so it takes more speed to maintain any flight regime even though the aft CG works to lower those speeds; a challenging paradox to test for. The most dangerous part is that when practicing (or not practicing) stalls, the aft CG tends to make the plane enter a flat spin, which in most cases is not recoverable due to how the resulting spin removes the control from the surfaces. The most uncomfortable part is that the Center of Lift is now close to the Center of Gravity which you can simulate by standing on one foot and balancing for awhile. That is why a KR with two on board gets pretty "busy". I may get flamed for this comment, but the above explanation is why I bumped my speeds in the pattern and landing up to what it takes for two on board and use them all the time. Other aircraft publish speeds that work in any flight configuration, as long as you are in the CG envelope. I was copying their pattern of publishing. Yes our KR can get slower, but my habits will allow for safe flying no matter what my load, or winds. If I wanted a bush plane I would have gotten a Kitfox or Cub. I am not bothered by using 1500 feet to land, or take off. Test carefully and with deliberate safety in mind Colin Rainey KSFB
KR> Intake manifold
Recently I have taken the position to allow others to comment and just read, seeing how others have the answers, and my time being short due to the new job. However, this one needs a comment... A point to remember when changing intake manifold designs is what makes what kind of power. Long skinny runners with gentle curves make great power in low to mid rpms with great throttle response, sacrificing top end power for better mid range and beginning rpm response, which is typical of a bone stock car. Larger runners with shorter lengths and straight shots to the heads make great power mid to high rpm, but suffer badly on the bottom end due to the lack of vacuum signal to the carb. Just take a look at a modern ProStock Dragster. They are also prone to having fuel vapor linger in the plenum chamber area directly below the carb, and then get swept into the next cylinder causing a lean rich condition at or near idle rpm. Sharp corners, drastic changes in port sizes from a large plenum, big carbs and large plenums, all hurt performance of the chosen parts, and tend to favor just one rpm band neglecting the others to produce a narrow range of operation. How many of us are actually going to see the rpms that the changes are for: most of us Corvair and VW alike stay in the low to midrange rpms all the time, even on takeoff (3000-3500 rpm vs. redlines of 5500 to 6000 rpm). The carb is spaced up from the turn into the head because if the turn is too sharp, then the air out runs the gas causing it to puddle in the plenum area and then get sucked into the next cylinder, rich lean surge is the result. Also oversized carbs tend to make the engine SLOW down at wide open throttle instead of speed up due to the carbs ability to give more air than the engine can actually use. Consult the Auto Mathbook available at any auto parts store or Barnes & Noble, and you can calculate the CFM requirements of your engine yourself and see what I mean about carb selection. Be careful when you begin modifying things that 100s of hours on the dyno with way more experienced technicians who were being paid to spend 8 hours a day to work out the bugs on the engine, and its successive different versions. I don't know any of us that have that much free time to experiment, and frankly I want to fly. Colin Rainey KSFB Sanford, FL.
KR> LSA alternative
To elaborate on Mark's comment, if working with wood and fiberglass is your thing, consider the Vision, which by all my observations is the next generation KR2S, and install a Corvair engine, and get a sweet flying airplane, plans built like the KR, glass like the KR but with a long wing version that also should fit nicely into LSA category. Subaru and GM 4.3V6 engines have been used in it as well so it is very adaptable to the task. No one has ever said the KR cannot fit the LSA, just that there are SO many examples that do not fit, you will have a hard row to hoe to prove to a DAR that it is LSA qualified. The FAA commentary that I read specifically mentioned that they are watching for aircraft that have previously been certified in other categories to be modified into LSA, and will aggressively prevent this. The purpose of the category is not to give alternatives, but to regulate those aircraft that already fit the category and previously were not regulated. Having said that, changes made logically to ANY airframe which significantly change the flight characteristics in such a way as to comply with the LSA restrictions should be able to be proved to comply much the same way as someone who proves their modifications to an original design are safe. To the FAA, documentation is and always will be the most important thing: if you show can show where others did the same thing and got a particular result, then it will be a much easier sell. BUT, bare in mind that any such changes DRASTICALLY effects the build time because now you are designing, building, troubleshooting, remaking, designing, troubleshooting, etc as you go. Good luck. Colin Rainey N96TA KSFB
KR> LSA alternative
Although I encourage the development of one's own aircraft several builders and pilots alike on the net here have tried to make sure that builders do not get the wrong impression about what they are building and what their expectations should be for operation. In the commentary that I referred to the FAA made it clear that they were watching BOTH existing aircraft that were previously certified, as well as "new designs" based on existing aircraft in Ultralight or Experimental Categories in order to make sure that builders or companies did not try to "make them fit" the category. Dana Overall and I discussed this at length on the net last year and attempted to shed light on the fact that most of the aircraft that are being approved or included in this new category already exist and are being flown, just not regulated. The FAA saw that due to this non regulation this part of the industry was very loose with standards of construction etc... In an effort to improve safety of construction and operations the new category was formed. Although it does make for alot of innovation and opportunity in the grass roots part of aviation, it was not intended by the FAA to promote that, just increase safety as part of the overall Safer Skies Agenda that was embarked on a few years ago as a national campaign by the FAA National Organization. As Jim Ferris so accurately pointed out, by making similar design changes that a builder chooses to the KR, it becomes his design, his named aircraft and therefore has the opportunity to be certified as he applies and the DAR agrees. Sport pilots will be limited to operating aircraft that meet the definition of a light-sport aircraft (see About Light-Sport Aircraft on this website). That includes aircraft in the following categories: a.. Airplanes (single-engine only) b.. Gliders c.. Lighter-than-air ships (airship or balloon) d.. Rotorcraft (gyroplane only) e.. Powered Parachutes f.. Weight-Shift control aircraft (e.g. trikes) As relates to operation, no experimental 2 SEAT aircraft may be operated with 2 seats available (not converted to single seat) by less than a Private Pilot rating appropriate for the category of aircraft ( SEL, SES etc...). Certifying the aircraft as an Experimental, not LSA or ELSA disqualifies a Sport Pilot for operation of that aircraft if it is a 2 seat aircraft. Here are a couple of other notes from the EAA: a.. no flights into Class A airspace, which is at or over 18,000' MSL; b.. no flights into Class B, C, or D airspace unless you receive training and a logbook endorsement; c.. no flights outside the U.S. without advance permission from that country(ies) d.. no sightseeing flights with passengers for charity fund raisers; e.. no flights above 10,000' MSL; f.. daytime flight only; no night flights g.. no flights when the flight or surface visibility is less than 3 statute miles; h.. no flights unless you can see the surface of the earth for flight reference; i.. no flights if the operating limitations issued with the aircraft do not permit that activity; j.. no flights contrary to any limitation listed on the pilot's certificate, U.S. driver's license, FAA medical certificate, or logbook endorsement(s); no flights while carrying a passenger or property for compensation or hire (no commercial operations); k.. no renting a light-sport aircraft unless it was issued a "special" airworthiness certificate; any qualified and current pilot (recreational pilot or higher) may fly a light-sport aircraft; l.. a light-sport aircraft may be flown at night if it is properly equipped for night flight and flown by a individual with a private pilot (or higher) certificate who has a current and valid FAA airman's medical certificate. Builders need to be sure that they review carefully with a local DAR what his take is on these and other parts of the new Regs so that before he spends his money and time building, he has a clear understanding of what he can expect for his effort and how it will be received. Good luck building, Colin Rainey
KR> ELSA LSA & Experimental
The way I read what you cut and pasted is the same thing that has been said all along. If by chance the aircraft receives an Experimental Certificate for operations AS an LSA or ELSA then a Sport Pilot can operate it. If not he is disqualified from its operation even if it is flown solo. I apologize if I was not clear about that distinction between the two Operating Limitations which it seems in later commentary that the FAA is defining the aircraft more by its certified operating limitations than by the type of certificate. Personally I am thinking that with all the changes opinions being expressed by the EAA, FAA, AOPA, and DARs, the current take on things will be nothing like what its final version will be a year or two from now. Build flexibly Colin
KR> Cowling cooling
The other alternative would be to open up the openings underneath and use the already high pressure air being forced under the cowling to assist in being drawn into the cowling, and install vents near the firewall baffles, closing off the openings in the front behind the prop. If you look at the illustrations of the areas of pressure as shown on Mark Langford's site you will see how the high pressure zones are all over the bottom of the cowling giving a natural ram cooling effect. Robert Finch also talks about how this was very successful in Jess Meyers' first efforts with the 4.3 V6 in the RV6, and also a Jaguar homebuilt. By baffling at the bottom of the engine and forcing up through the heads reversed, you might even increase the aerodynamics some by smoothing the area right behind the prop where it is so blunt and allowing a more streamlined scoop vent on the bottom. Food for thought... Colin Rainey Sanford, FL N96TA
KR> Stalls
Dennis and netters The reason that some planes can "lift" a wing in slow flight while others can't has to do with a long "arm" or simply the leverage that the rudder has due to the length of the tailboom. Although some of the trainers allow for use of the rudder alone to lift a wing during slow flights and stalls, this is mainly done by CFI's in training to build control confidence in the student so that the student gets used to small inputs, and being smooth, not because the rudder is the preferred control device. Some ultralights fly with only rudder and elevator due to their slow speeds allow for the application of rudder to make a turn which momentarily skids the plane, but slows the in board wing causing it to drop, while speeding up the out board, causing it to lift. The trainers do the same thing, and can "get away" with using this uncoordinated approach to turning. It is also to build confidence in the student for later spin recovery if ever it has to be done. Application of ailerons then will only cause a tighter spin. By design the rudder is only used to maintain coordinated flight to correct for yaw. The wing washout is by design an attempt to maintain some aileron effectiveness as the aircraft slows down. Not always can they maintain positive aileron control near the stall, but that is the effort anyway. It is also more primarily apart of the design to insure that the stall occurs at the wing root, and not the tip so that the stall characteristics will be more forgiving, and more control is preserved than would be otherwise, (stall occurring at the wingtip first). Colin Rainey Sanford, FL
KR> Takeoff wake
To add to what Larry's said Jet engines also cause significant turbulence behind the aircraft in question. I personally will not takeoff behind any aircraft larger than a light twin, including an MD80 or DC8, Gulfstream 5 etc... even though ATC does not consider these aircraft to produce significant wake turbulence, for at least 2 minutes to allow the wake to dissipate. I disagree with Larry in taking off below the wake due to the fact that the wake is descending the entire time after takeoff, or while on approach to land. If necessary, wait 1 minute and then lift off sooner than the departing aircraft and turn out sooner, and while climbing out, "slide" the flight path up wind of the runway and parallel the departing flight path. More good reading is in the FAR/AIM, in the AIM section on wake turbulence. Just change the stated aircraft from large to smaller jets. Colin KSFB
KR> KR speed
Jeff Speed in any plane is a function of excess thrust overcoming whatever drag is present in a given plane. I am over simplifying but basically the less drag the plane makes for a given horsepower the faster it flies. And drag reduction has MORE effect than more hp. Several companies have done test after test and proven that it requires much more increases in hp to overcome a dirty airplane, than it does to get big improvements by reducing drag and get the same speed increases, using already available hp in the plane's setup. Why is this? Because it is very easy to increase cruising speeds and top speeds when going from say 80 knots to 120 knots in the same plane by just adding hp and maybe a prop change. This is because the parasitic drag, or drag produced by anything in the slipstream is much less at lower speeds, and the hp increase is taking the plane from having marginal thrust above minimum to climb and cruise, and adding more than enough to cruise with hp to spare. Also, altitude has an effect based on the density altitude, and the friend may be reporting true airspeed, not indicated based on adjusted numbers. Now take that same plane and try to push it up to say 200 knots. Horse thinking would have you say, well if I double the hp I will fly twice as fast, right? NOT! Parasitic drag begins growing rapidly above certain speeds in different planes, and in fact if the airspeed is doubled the parasitic drag is 4 TIMES what it was at half speed ( FAA Pilots Handbook Aeronautical Knowledge ). This is why double the hp increases the climb rate so much, because climbing is a function of excess hp over what level flight requires, and does NOT necessarily translate to alot higher cruise speeds. Take 2 KRs: look closely at the attention to detail. The one that has the cleanest airframe, the slipperiest paint, the lightest weight, smallest wetted area, least drag producing anything, and he will be the fastest for a given hp of others. Troy Pettyway has one of the fastest KR2's, and also has one of the cleanest KRs. Brain Kraut referenced a book written on this very subject called speed with economy, and is well worth reading to provide even more information. Look at a Varieze, 100hp and 200 mph cruise. Colin Rainey Sanford, FL.
KR> Ailerons and stalls
Netters It is a common mis-conception that you cannot use ailerons when either practicing stalls or when actually experiencing stalls. Young CFI's typically make such a big deal about this that pilots mis-understand the warning that goes along with the statement watch how much aileron you use when stalling. The important thing to remember is to always stay COORDINATED. You can use full aileron deflection in any properly designed aircraft and will NOT induce a spin, because coordinated flight will insure both wings still stall equally. It is when you are uncoordinated, AND you apply significant aileron input that one wing becomes more stalled and begins the rotation of the incipient or beginning part of the spin. As Mark Jones stated when the aircraft begins to try and rotate, applying opposite rudder first and judicious aileron will correct the situation just fine. A perfect stall execution except without being coordinated will always end in some kind of attempt of the plane to begin rotating due to this uncoordination. Any pilot going through primary training right now will note that in the new Private Pilot PTS the applicant is required to demonstrate proper stall recoveries from power on stalls in turns up to 20 degrees. These are found by the student to be routine during training due to the fact that if he/she stays coordinated, both wings stall the same, and the aircraft drops its nose level, and a normal recovery is experienced. There is good reason we are training for these stalls now. Takeoff departure leg to crosswind, and crosswind to downwind turning stalls are on the rise in General Aviation, and are very dangerous due to the low altitude associated with their recovery. All KR pilots should become GRADUALLY very familiar with the stall characteristics of their particular KR's in all weight and configurations (with and without flaps etc...) in order to be as safe as possible. Stall recognition should also be practiced along with the recovery without looking at the panel, but just recognizing it by the feel of the flight controls, and the view of the outside flight sight picture. The pattern at some airports can get very busy and your ability to know your airplane from the outside view will keep your head outside where the danger is and not inside fixed on the panel. Colin KSFB Sanford, FL
KR> Brake fluid
Sounds like DOT 4 auto fluid. Colin
KR> Sender
Dan I made a simple recess box by glassing over the end of a box large enough to hold the sender base and that is all, then cut the hole just large enough to allow the sender "box" to be pressed into the tank and floxed into place, after having cut open for the sender/float assembly and drilling for the mounting screws. Floxed into tank top, then mounted sender, then floxed cut out piece back into place, with small channel dremelled out for the wires to the firewall, and on to the gauge. Pictures shows this on my web page. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL
KR> Oshkosh
Regretfully we will not make Oshkosh this year. We are thrashing to get the Corvair motor in the plane and tested for the Gathering. Almost all new parts are here, awaiting just a few more. Bought glass and some other support stuff for modifications. New job to hopefully give me more time for flying starts this week. Hoping by the end of June motor will be built and in the plane to resume testing. Just a thought, but has anyone ever used PVC pipe for an intake manifold? Bill Clapp's fuel tanks got me thinking. Just wondering... Anyone with real info on this send me email offline please. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL
KR> Corvair with VW jugs
Jeff If you are not VERY motor experienced than I would stick to the basic 2700 cc or 164 CID Corvair and be able to count on the reliability. If you don't have a very good reason for building the extra power in (i.e. heavy plane 750# or better empty etc...) than the basic 164 will be just fine. If you really want more out of it, I would add a PSRU on the front before going through what Mark went through to get 3100 cc. You make it so that there are so many small details that can go wrong that will ruin all your hard work, and if you really need the performance, I personally believe you will shorten the life of the Corvair by asking it to give you more. Basic rule of drag racing, higher revs, run harder, shorter life. Another option is to wait until WW finished the evals on the new turbo install and copy that. That will allow you to use the basic engine and get the extra from the addition of the turbo. Just my opinion Colin KSFB
KR> EFI and larger head stuff
Those who have heard it before I am repeating so bear with me. Jeff and all netters reading: There is NO FUEL ECONOMY savings with fuel injection! You are only changing the way that the fuel is delivered and its accuracy, so it helps in overall horsepower and torque, but does not make ANY better fuel economy. To get the increases people are used to seeing advertised with fuel injection requires additional spark advance at appropriate time, and more exact fuel metering than we are talking about in aviation. This requires a feedback computer system to make this possible and has been much discussed here, so I will not go there with this post. Throttle body heat IS necessary for fuel injection in the off chance that conditions do occur that cause icing around the throttle plate. On certified aircraft you will see alternate air, which is heated to handle this possibility. Autos avoid this necessity by providing coolant heat at the throttle body, and by designing the engine to operate at a higher temp of 195-205 regulated by a water thermostat. Most still have some form of heated air on startup, or throttle warming. This is because the best mix of fuel and air occurs at a warm temperature, so too cold allows the fuel to condense on intake walls and separate, which is why so many use port fuel injection to avoid this. Stick to carbs: much more simple and easy. The pattern to follow is already there Scott, in William Wynne's book he evaluates the 140, 160 & 180 horsepower heads and finds that although they provide the proper increase in performance for cars; in the ranges of rpms, and use in direct drive applications are bad to use in planes. They increased quench area which can lead to detonation, and larger valves actually cause a DECREASE in performance at lower rpms, in favor of rpms over 3000, so that it is not practical for us. Larger valves will not increase lower rpm performance due to the drop in vacuum signal to the intake, so it will take higher rpms to get the power increase. Same with bigger exhaust. Increase is only realized above the rpms where we intend to use the plane/engine. Doug Roe makes a great case for this by running his competition Camaro on first a 650 cfm carb, and then an 850 cfm carb, and was faster on the 650. More air is good to a point; if the velocity of that air drops below a certain point, no performance increase is realized in lower rpms, but are in upper. This why the OT10 cam works better than all others: they stay closer to stock with duration and increase lift, while others try to increase both which actually cause a loss in power in the lower rpms in favor of the upper end. A quick look at the Summit Racing Catalog on cams will show the effective rpms for cams designed with more lift AND duration. Colin KSFB
KR> Landings
Netters I agree with Jim Faughn with a couple of additions: Flaps and/or a belly board will change or modify some of what Jim said about both speeds, power settings, and landing attitude. The increased drag from these devices causes slightly higher power settings, or lower nose position to maintain the same speeds. If it is your choice to come in at idle, then you will have a significantly shorter final, and lower nose attitude throughout the pattern due to this increased drag. This is the whole purpose of such devices: to allow a closer in pattern, slower with the same lift and better visibility (nose lower). Also, in transition, which is the patience period Jim refers to, you are rounded out and in ground effect waiting for the plane to slow to touchdown speed, and using ONLY that back pressure required to maintain the same height above the runway as the speed decreases. Also a HUGE key here is to make sure that you are looking at the END of the runway, not any where closer to the nose, to get maximum depth perception. This will allow you to make much more subtle changes in attitude to maintain just above the runway. The plane should gently drift down, and the mains should kiss with a chirp, but not be felt more than a bump. Then apply forward pressure like smoothly rolling on paint in slow motion. If you bounce, freeze the stick right there, and go to nearly full power to restore just a few miles per hour, or knots to begin flying, reduce power smoothly, and land again. Big bounce go around. Odds for success jump TREMENDOUSLY on the next trip through. Be aware that the normal reaction of trying to force the nose back down, when it starts popping up during the bounce will cause a DRAMATIC loss of lift and cause the plane to smash down on the gear, aggravating the problem. The angle of attack must be maintained in order to preserve the lift and power used to restore flight temporarily, or in the go around. Once the climbout is established you can GRADUALLY lower the nose to increase speed. If I have repeated anything Jim has already stated my apologies. My main reason for this post is cross winds. Mark was bit by a combination of things on that first flight, one of which was a cross wind. When dealing with cross winds you cannot approach the runway at the same slow speeds as with no wind. All guides tell you to add half the gust factor to your approach speed, and wheel landings are typically accomplished at between 5 and 10 miles per hour faster then no wind to provide the additional control necessary to over come to cross wind. If not you do not have the control authority needed. I have successfully landed my KR2 in winds 20 knots gusting to 30 as a quartering headwind, making the 90 degree component approximately 15 to 17 knots according to the chart on my wiz wheel. Mains contacted at between 80 and 85 mph, with final being flown at between 90 to 95 mph indicated. This made the nose position right where I needed it to maintain runway alignment, and allow for moderate wing low opposite rudder cross wind correction. I do not like nor do I teach the crab and kickout method of cross wind landings because it is too much going on a few feet above the runway. The key again here is to fly to just above the runway, I call it flying through the barn door at the approach end of the runway, and just skim the surface without touching. Then as it slows, just let the mains touch, and when they do, just "roll them on", continually adding pressure to keep the tail raised so that you can maintain runway centerline with rudder. It will finally slow enough for the tail to drop on its own, and will slow enough for brakes and rudder steering to maintain control against the crosswind. Also remember to apply aileron into the crosswind, and maintain proper elevator position for maximum control while taxiing (stick back and aileron into the wind in front, stick forward and aileron away, or dive and away for wind behind). Colin Rainey KSFB Florida
KR> Power on approaches
Just a side note about approaches. For those advocates of power off approaches, think about this: the reason that power on approaches have become so popular is not what the big flight schools would have you believe, that they are teaching airline procedures. It is because the FAA did a study of engine failures, and found that those engines that failed most often were those that were asked to give full power after a long pattern at idle, where the engine was shock cooled, and then a go around was attempted. By simply reducing the engine to just above idle, say 1200 to 1500 rpms, the engine was allowed to maintain a more even temperature, and then go around could be accomplished without "surprising" the engine if you will. This is also why you should plan power descents, instead of gliding descents, to maintain a more even engine temp. When I was first being taught to fly back in 1979 and 1980 (wow that makes me feel old!) the approach was to teach total power off patterns and approaches in the Cessna's. Over the years that changed due to the information gathered I spoke of. There are many planes, some of which are Mooneys, Bonanzas, and KRs that are really designed for power on approaches and behave much better with a small power setting in the pattern. They can be flown otherwise, but you are working alot harder. "Food" for thought Colin KSFB
KR> Differences
One other point: There are NO differences between taildraggers and tri-gear planes of the exact same model, except when wheel landing and tailup taking off the taildragger. If one is performing a 3 point with a taildragger, it is identical to the tri-gear boys until taxi time. The same holds true when taking off. Otherwise they are the same, and definitely once airborne they are the same. When performing the tail lift takeoff taildragger pilots have to deal with gyroscopic precession caused when lifting the tail that tri-gear pilots do not since their tail is already lifted. Both have to deal with torque while moving forward. Both then have to deal with precession at rotation and climbout along with P-factor and torque. In the air other than drag of the nose wheel is typically more than the tailwheel, there is no difference. Colin
KR> Ground effect
Larry I am gonna knock just alittle more dust off. Ground effect actually begins the height above the ground that equals the width of the wingspan, and is most pronounced at half the width of the wingspan (where we feel its effects the most). Ground effect for fixed wing aircraft is defined as the effect that the proximity to the ground has on the airflow patterns about an aircraft's wings. It effects ALL fixed wing aircraft regardless of engine or not, or wingspan length. It has the gradually increasing effect of "straightening" the airflow out over the wings reducing drag giving a performance increase with out the associated drag component that exists at altitude. BY canceling the wingtip vortices, which restores tip lift, and smoothing airflow over the rest of the wing, reducing drag the airplane gets this performance increase. For more on this see The Airplane Flying Handbook printed by ASA and available at nearly any pilot shop, Sportys, AS, King Schools, and more. And while you are at it, check out the Handbook of Aeronautical Knowledge also printed by ASA. It will remind all pilots of the basics and bring you up to speed if it has been awhile since you looked at the Regs etc... Colin Rainey Sanford, FL Almost all the Corvair parts in, ready to assemble Trailer gone with Jim Ferris to pickup his KR2S
KR> A
There is a good one that is an example annual in Part 43 of the regs, that they are supposed to use for certified planes. If you do not have a copy of Part 43 you can either download it off AOPA, the FAA website or let me know and I will scan it in and email it. Colin
KR> Stall speed
Mark Yes it lowers the stall speed due to the reduced drag of the aircraft in ground effect as compared to a measured stall speed in flight say at 2000'. I stand corrected if someone finds it in print from a reputable source but I don't believe there is a set amount. It has a great deal to do with wingspan, proximity to the ground, the angle of attack it stalls at out of ground effect, etc... I would think that it is approximately 3 to 5 mph depending on the KR. This is best guess because I am not looking there when I am landing. Kinda hard to tell because your sink rate is beginning to increase just before, so you are flaring to control that for a 3 point and the wheel landing you just let it come on above the stall speed. Colin
KR> Fuel injection
Jim and netters This is why I have said that if you are not familiar you really need to get schooling on why things are done the way they are in fuel injection different from carbs. The return line from the pressure regulator side MUST return to the fuel tank, below or at the pickup point (fuel level) to allow proper recirculation so that the fuel pump which is also cooled by the fuel it is pumping can be prevented from over heating and short life, and to prevent aeration of the fuel (bubbling). Typically the fuel pumps required to make a fuel injection system work properly must pump alot more volume and pressure and get MUCH hotter internally than carb pumps do, and is why so many manufacturers went to installing them inside the fuel tanks. The fuel acts to cool the pumps along with a constant recirculation and the pump is always primed being immersed in fuel (unless you are out). Your system is providing a circulation loop, but will tend to send fuel both ways in your lines, potentially starving the system under acceleration. Look at ALL systems on cars and light trucks; they all recirculate back to the tank. Ford trucks went through a huge problem with their multi tank system, where the checking valve that was supposed to keep the fuel coming from the correct tank would malfunction causing the fuel to be pumped back into the other tank, instead of to the engine. Positive selection, individual check valves, and proper line organization are just some of the considerations. Colin Sanford, FL Ordered almost all support parts from Clarks Corvairs for the KRvair engine this morning. Sights are set on a mid June fire up!
KR> Neg post
Jim and netters After reading my own post, I wanted both Jim and the other netters to not feel that my post was negative or meant to be a flaming or slam dunk. It was not. I merely wanted to point out that it is impossible for this group to completely supplement a builder with little or no back ground in a field with all he needs to safely complete a job or installation. Not seeing the setup first hand, and following it all the way through, all the unseen things become a potential for problems. There are so many components in most systems that it is easy to make an assumption that this part is standard, or that setup is done standard, and it would not be so. I will be the first to say that fuel injection is a wonderful thing for engines, and their performance. My fear for builders is the fact that for years I watched people who were "mechanics" screw up fuel injections systems because they would do things that they thought would be okay, without realizing the consequences. A car on fire on the side of the road or broken down on the shoulder is bad enough; but a poorly engineered conversion due to lack of knowledge or poor choice of materials/setup in an airplane is a death trap. We all no there is no shoulder to pull off onto. PLEASE make sure that the proper research is done, and if at all possible get a REAL performance mechanic (not a hot rod wanna be) to shadow your installation. Also, no offense to any, but A's that do not have auto injection system exposure and background are also worthless because the two styles of engineering and setup are TOTALLY different and will only cause you to induce new problems, that the car guys have long since cured. Stick to consulting with performance auto people for advice and know how. Colin KSFB
KR> Gascolator
Jim That is exactly how Vans sells his gascolator and furnishes the builder with a plug if no primer is desired or used. Ken, a low pressure fuel injection system like aircraft uses can have the fuel dump above the fuel level. You cannot use this method with high pressure, high volume recirculation due to the foaming of the fuel that will result. This is a prime example of how different auto vs. aircraft fuel injection is. The gallons per hour that are recirculated to the tank alone are more than twice what the total capacity of delivery that the aircraft system can even make. They are apples to oranges! Do not compare them as being close to the same. They are not. Auto systems use electronic injectors that spray fuel on command, while aircraft use a less efficient, but simpler spray nozzle like a diesel uses. The auto system requires more pressure and the ability to restrict that pressure more during acceleration with a pressure regulator that is vacuum controlled. This is just the beginning. Jim, install a return in the tank that makes the fuel enter below the fuel level. If you want, add a tube that extends into the tank from the top, and bends and lays on the bottom of the tank, so that recirculated fuel does not cause foaming. Otherwise she will run perfect until the fuel demand uses up all liquid fuel and then it will be foam. I would hate for this to happen on climbout, or when it really mattered! Go to a junk yard and look at an in tank assembly and you will see the pickup screen on the end of the fuel pump, and right next to it is the nozzle for the return line, emptying back into the tank. Colin KSFB
KR> N56ML
I see a very prudent cautious pilot making sure that experience protects his investment of time and money and his family. My hat is off to Troy Pettiway for being such a true friend to be the test pilot for Mark, and to conduct such a thorough pre-flight that some routine things were discovered and corrected that could have gotten our illustrious leader hurt. Troy my hat is off to you one commercial pilot to another! Mark congratulations on the culmination of 12 years of hard dedicated work coming together in a plane that one of your peers complimented you on being so stable. I would be honored if I were to get a ride in your bird anytime in the next year! AND NOWITS MILLER TIME!!! YHAAAWW!!! Colin Rainey Sanford, FL
KR> Non KR related
I don't know Dan but I am tired of reading posts related to tools that have nothing to do with Krs! Take it off line fellows. Colin Rainey Sanford, FL
KR> Taxi testing
Incredible I can contribute once again to the "master" of KRs...LOL Seriously, Mark I would continue to taxi around until you feel as comfortable as driving your car. I did, and was so glad because there were no surprises when landing later. I just took a tour of the airport and began maneuvering into every spot I could see, practiced "parking" in imaginary spots, going around non-existent obstacles until I had the confidence to get around other aircraft. If you get into a bind, shut it down and push it out into the open again and start over. Something bites you, keep going back until you master it. If you don't that will be the one item that will someday bite you while transitioning some other time. Just my opinion, but anyone who recommends to avoid a portion of the flight regime, or not practice it, either needs to quit calling themselves a pilot, or shut up and quit giving their cowardly advice. The ONLY way to control risk in flying is to become competent in ALL areas, not just in some. It is much easier and safer to handle a ground loop at half speed then to face the same situation at landing speed with the end of the runway coming up much faster, AND you are tired and fatigued from your first nerve racking flight! Get it tail up and hold it steady and straight, then gradually let it sink with no power. See if you can "hop" it into ground effect just a foot or two off the runway very early on the runway, then let it sink onto the mains and hold it straight as before. This gets you practicing the most important aspects of mastering a tailwheel landing, with the maximum repetition, and lowest risk. By doing that you will effectively practice landing the airplane over and over without having to fly the pattern for 5 minutes to get 10 seconds of practice. There is no managing of the approach, pressure of speeds, watching other traffic, staying near the airport, not overshooting final etc Keep it close to the ground until you are comfortable. The rest comes soon enough. I have used this many times in teaching others how to land and how to land better, including other CFIs. One pilot that I showed these things to had been flying for over 15 years and had never been taught this stuff. Landing is not luck, it is practiced skill. As far as steering, here is the secret for all you tailwheel wanna bes and wanna be better: when beginning a turn or correction start by applying pressure to that rudder, NOT pushing the pedal, or if the tailwheel is down, pressure to that brake. The moment that the plane begins to react in the desired direction, IMMEDIATELY begin applying a small amount of counter pressure to the opposite brake or pedal to control the amount of turn and rate, much the same way we begin taking out turns from the steering wheel before completion of the turn. By practicing this regulation of the turns, one can get to the point of applying brakes while the tailwheel is still up, and doing things like figure 8's, and so forth for skill building. This skill prevents the ground loop by limiting the amount of reaction the plane gives and gets the pilot ahead of the plane's reaction instead of behind it. This skill necessary in order to have the proper reaction time when transitioning from a landing into taxi operations. Good flying Mark, and CONGRATS! You deserve it! Colin Rainey Sanford,FL
KR> Speeds
Mark I had the 1835 cc VW and also have the RAF48 wing, so take with a grain of salt: Once the static port was accurate, stall power on was 49mph, power off 52mph. Anything under 60 and it was really mushy and about half the response from the controls as above that. I found my Vx climb to be 85 mph but engine temp rose quickly, so only good for first 400-500 feet or so. 95 to 100 mph was best cooling climb and Vy or best rate. In the pattern 105 to 110 mph on downwind, base first notch of the belly board 25 degrees slow to between 95 - 100 mph, final at 3/4 mile last notch of 50 degrees belly board, and slow to 85 mph. This made for a steady as rails approach, even in wind. Roundout in the grass before the numbers it slows immediately to 80, holding it in ground effect about 2 feet off and it slow thru 75 to 70 and begins to settle. Slight back pressure to just kiss the mains, and as they come on between 65 - 60 mph, "roll on" the forward pressure to hold the tail up, and let it slow by itself. Depending on the wind it will separate from the runway at between 65 and 75 (and weight). This may change with the Corvair but not much. All else does not rely on the engine but mainly CG, weight, and configuration. Also, I leave in idle power plus a couple of hundred rpms. This also helps to stabilize the glide and prevent shock cooling of the engine. Colin
KR> Cockpit size
I have a KR2 built to plans, I am 5'5" tall, and 195 and I had to move the seat forward 5 inches to comfortably reach the rudder pedals, and see over the nose at the same time. The KR2S has even more room having added an additional bay forward and aft of the spar. Larry Flesner is not a small man, neither is Mark Jones, and they are having a blast with their KRs also. You build it, so build it to accommodate you! It is yours Corvair engine torn down, waiting on parts from Clark's Corvair Colin Sanford, FL
KR> Another flight
Yea Mark but do you have Todd's Canopy's latest product? It is the bi-focal windshield for us older pilots who need that extra magnification for reading. Sorry could not resist. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> O2 sensors
John One wire O2 sensors located near the head in the exhaust in order to quickly heat up are the most reliable and simplest. The multi-wire have heating elements in them to allow the manufacturer to place them further downstream for wiring convenience and for things like monitoring catalytic converter efficiency. A simple sweep needle volt meter on the 1 volt scale, or read on the 1 volt scale is all you need. If you are balanced in your mixture then the needle will hover around .5 volts. If it swings towards 1 volt or keeps swinging that way you are running lean, if swinging or staying near or at 0 volts then mixture is rich. Watch when you accelerate and you will confirm this. We used a simple volt/ohm meter to check older O2 sensors all the time to save having to remove them, only to find the problem was elsewhere. This is probably also one of the only computer sensors from earlier engines that only read 1 volt or less. All others read at least 5 volts, some 12 volts. By labeling the volt gauge ahead of time, the voltage will make sense when you are reading it, and you won't spend a ton for the parts. O2 wire pigtail can be had at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts or equivalent auto parts house as a repair pigtail for one wire O2 sensor. These are also the cheapest O2 sensors at about $18. Hardest part is getting the nut welded on the pipe. Uses a 7/8" wrench to install. Always use alittle Permatex Anti-seize to prevent it rusting in place. Spark plug torque of 20 foot pounds works good, no more. Any more might crack it internally, or ring it off. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> EFI contrast to Ron Slender remarks
Phillip and netters I would like to point out in brief responses to the comments by Ron Slender having been trained to diagnose vehicles the way that Ron has described his research with his aviation EFI. First off let me say that no aircraft I know of without a turbine engine has had its engine operating in as harsh an environment as automobiles today are designed to run in routinely. Car alternators are expected to output 60, 70, sometimes as much as 100 amps in some of the newest vehicles, while underhood temperatures on an 85 degree day with reflected heat into the engine compartment will reach over 500 degrees, and still they are expected not to fail. Just one part. At the same time the same car 3000 miles away has to be able to also function just as well in below freezing temperatures, AND keep us comfortable inside. No aircraft I know for less than $400,000 can do that nor are they designed to do that. Not putting anything down, just making an observation. All late model cars that I know of and light trucks have the fuel pump also controlled by the computer, so this is a moot point. Virtually all domestic cars after 1990 have magnetic trigger/pickup for their ignition in one version or another, so no distributor to break or wear out. Both Cam and crank position are known by the computer. MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors is old technology and if Ron is designing around this he is at least 10 years behind. Real time MAF (mass air flow) meters actually measure the volume of incoming air which is much more precise than the approximate measurement of the MAP sensor. MAP sensors work very well for batch fire injection, which is where one whole bank of injectors fire or spray at once. But if you are using sequential injection, you really need the accuracy of the MAF to get the most out of the system, and handle all the engine running conditions. TBI fuel systems regularly run on as little as 5 psi, and max at 15 psi. EFI systems range from 20-30 psi upwards of 50-60 psi in domestics, and some European systems as high as 80 psi (most are back down to domestic as well now). This is high pressure but also allows the system to be able to handle the adjustments over a much wider range than in the early versions. Rather than using some rare spark plug that will cost $16 a piece, using a capacitive discharge system straight off a domestic car will produce anywhere from 60-90kv through platinum, or double platinum plugs that will last several years minimum. Timing is fully electronic with crank and cam sensors, coolant temp sensor for engine temp, air charge temp for incoming air temp, knock sensor for retard, and O2 sensors for checking accuracy of mixture control. No need for all that expensive re-working of the fuel map, the manufacturer has all that pre-programmed into the computer, and will handle all the variety of loads that the engine will experience. Remember, they had to plan on hill climbing, use in all parts of the country, running at sea level, and then up in the mountains, hot and cold. The computer doesn't know about altitude and doesn't care. All it cares about is matching the fuel mix to the incoming air, whatever that volume and temp. The only sensors that might cause problems (besides lead on the O2 sensor), is any transmission sensors. Be sure to select a manual transmission vehicle for easiest conversion. Wire looms/harness already assembled at the factory. Just remove completely, and re-install. Includes weather seal connectors. OBD I computers require no battery to maintain programming so once the PROM chip is installed, the basics are already there. All that has to be done is run the engine to establish the baseline for the adaptive memory, and you are rockin. Just can't see any good reason to buy someone's "latest developments" when that has already been done a decade ago. If you know how it works, use it. crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> O2 sensors
John Using a wideband sensor is pretty much useless because if you get richer than 12:1 at anything above sea level, except on acceleration maybe, you will completely foul out the plugs, and your fuel gauge will race your tachometer to zero! Anything leaner than 15:1 will probably make the cylinder so hot internally that you will begin detonating in short order. Most engines I am familiar with cannot run under load at stoichemetric, only at cruise. The one wires are cheap and will be very resistant to contamination for a good while. Bosch sells the best ones that last the longest. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Learning from mistakes
Netters Mark's experience shared here is exactly what we should all try to do when things "happen". We just might save a life. That is the reason I became an Aviation Safety Counselor with the FAA. It is a volunteer position that assists the FAA Safety Program in putting on Safety Seminars, and promoting a lower risk atmosphere for us all to operate in. Any who desire should look into this at their local FSDO. Cessna stopped making the 172 model with 40 degrees flaps for the same reason as Mark found with belly board down; the plane would not climb, and if the pilot panicked, he was in the trees. Larry's mentioning of planning a proper timing for a go-around is exactly what all of us should rehearse when NOT required to perform for safety reasons, in order to be ready for the real thing, when someone or something makes us react unexpectedly. One more thought: when I teach a student, I have then sit in a chair at home, and when they come to fly, get there early, and perform what we call "chair flying". I have them sit and rehearse with no engine running, no radio, just concentration, and rehearse every procedure that they possibly could be asked or required to perform in flight. This establishes the practice, for the you play the way you practice, and then we do it the same way during a lesson. Then while test flying the plane, and you have already done your speed measurements for the day etc..., go through your emergency procedures. Simulate an emergency engine out and setup a glide to a field you choose, then go through whatever troubleshooting you can do. Start at 3000 so that you have plenty of time, and can also find out what altitude is too low for complete troubleshooting, and the focus should only be on getting down safely. When the pucker factor reaches 10, you will bless this rehearsal because it will come without thinking and you can FLY THE PLANE! That is why I have shared my checklists with anyone who has asked; because all should rehearse their procedures on a regular basis. Mark's training included a calm approach to troubleshooting while still flying the plane; how do I know? because he reported he knew what his climb rate was. His main focus was flying the plane. GOOD JOB MARK! Just some thoughts Brian I have the EGT, can't find the mixture gauge Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Carb on top
Any builder looking to run with carb on top needs to run one that is similar to an auto carb in that it has a good needle and seat style control for regulating fuel into the bowl. The problem that I have seen with alot of carbs being adapted to the KR engines is that they are purpose built, just not for our purpose. A carb used on our engines needs to be one designed for a moving vehicle, not adapted from an industrial application, or a farm tractor, or something else. A good candidate is the Weber series of carbs. Another are the Mikuni carbs from 4 cylinder engines (not from seadoos, not large enough) like the Honda Protégé or Accord. These carbs are designed to run daily with engine heat, so on top is okay, and they run with fuel pumps, so that is okay. Use the book AUTO MATH BOOK by John Lawlor to calculate the necessary cfm requirements for your application and then match the carb to it, always choosing to the low side of the cfm requirement. Example: if your engine calculates to needing say 368 cfm at your peak rpm, then choose an available 350 cfm carb, or 325 cfm whichever is readily available. This is one time where bigger is NOT better. Larger will cause hesitations, surging, and mixture problems through all ranges except peak rpm (which is what the carb would be selected to work at only in this case). Testing has shown that an oversized carb will actually cause the engine to slow down, or make less power not make more. Also make sure that it is a factory style carb and not after market like a Holley, which will require jetting and adjusting for all ranges and changes in season. Acquire a Carter brand electric pump which uses a better pumping mechanism to prevent flooding and has more volume flow without the pressure (see the Weber Carb site). The Posa requires too many modifications to make it acceptable. I think Jim Faughn is still running one on his 2180 VW. He goes into alot of detail on his site about it, as does Orma. Good reading. And here is a little tip alot of builders are missing: if you use a carb of late model design, say after 1975, it will not only be designed for best lean mix which will yield best performance, but will NOT require mixture control as it will be equipped with a barometrically controlled diaphragm that will automatically lean the mixture as you climb or atmospheric conditions change, the same way that the new FADEC engines alter the mix with electronic control by leaning the mixture. You will need to set the idle mixture and then the rest is preset mechanically based on factory adjustments internally. This is why the carb MUST be matched properly to the engine. They also have an accelerator pump eliminating the need for a primer system, AND making acceleration smoother due to fuel being added as the throttle is opened at the same time, something that even some of the aviation carbs do not have which cause the typical popping back and hesitation when the throttle is opened rapidly from idle. I have heard counter thoughts on this but we cannot replace the decades of development that have gone into the successful carbs of later cars. Use as is including the choke. The electric choke will do 2 things: make cold starts a non-issue, and will allow for an automatic richening of the mix if the incoming air is too cold. Power is applied to the choke to keep it hot, so the carb temp has to get really low for it to come on, but if it does, the mix will richen to compensate for low temp of the incoming air for proper fuel atomization. These enhancements took many years to develop and cured the mysterious surging, flat spots, "vapor locking" and other drivability problems associated with the pre-emission carbs. Just a quick note: long skinny runners for intake are more rpm sensitive and provide a better idle "signal" for smoother acceleration; short fat runners are better for overall rpm performance and make more power, but do not provide a good "signal" to the carb at low to intermediate rpm. More on this later Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Specs
Just to share a couple of specs from auto engines: Engine oil needs to have viscosity matched to temp range, the lower the "W" number the lower the temp it is designed to handle. 5W30 is the best for really cold temps AND for all modern small oil port engines. The 5W allows it to still flow in temps around 20-25 degrees below zero F. 10W30 is your best all around oil grade. Only goes down to 10-15 below, but has better durability in warmer weather, up to about 100 degrees F. 10W40 needs to be reserved for areas like Florida, and Arizona, Southern California where the engine will see constant temps 75-85 and above. It can handle as low as the 10W30 but goes up to around 120 degrees F. 20W50 should only be used when severe duty is called for, or temps are regularly hitting over 100 degrees in daytime. It can handle up to approx 150 degrees F. It can only go down to approx 15 degrees above zero though so its use in winter is NOT recommended. In between grades may show good oil pressure numbers but will not flow throughout the engine as well as a lesser grade designed for the temp. Remember, we are using auto engines. The engine does not know it is in the plane, only the temps it is being asked to run in, and the work it is being asked to perform. Good oil pressure is 10 pounds per 1000 rpms. So at cruise 35-45 psi is good. Idle at 700-800 with 10-15 psi is good, as long as this is hot oil pressure. It should always be higher at startup. Higher oil pressures risk starving the bottom end by pumping the oil pan dry, especially if you do not have an over sized oil pan. The original manufacturer matched the oil capacity with the oil pressure/flow so that this would not be a problem. Make sure not to use a high pressure high volume oil pump with out increased capacity, or you may starve the bottom end bearings with all the oil pumped to the heads during higher rpm operation. Mark, 15W40 might be a little too thick of an oil for the weather you are currently having. I would go with 10W30 or even 5W30 as long as you have snow on the ground, or the potential anyway. Remember, you are also cooling way off as soon as you climb out, so take that into account also. Not too much longer and I will join the Corvair crowd in the air! Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> pressure/volume
I do not disagree with the fact that high volume is not the same as high pressure, and I see from the way I said it how one could infer that. My remarks are geared at using either when not necessary. William states several times in his conversion manual that the stock oiling system is more than adequate in the Corvair motor, and that high pressure or high volume are not necessary unless you have long lines to things like remote coolers/oil filter relocation kits. Replacing the pressure spring as you did to restore stock like oil pressures is not what I was aiming at, but rather those who would think more is better and install the highest available which would only be necessary for engines running at rpms we will not see. The point that I was making was that any oil pressure significantly over stock (say more than 10 psi hot) without increasing the overall oil capacity runs the risk of leaving too little oil in the pan for proper operation at cruise. This is why I am using William's deep sump pan with modified pickup tube as added insurance during maneuvering flight, and acceleration/deceleration because it will give me approximately 2 quarts more capacity helping the engine run cooler and have more total capacity for insurance against cavitation. In our application excess oil pressure or volume, without increased capacity to match it is treading on thin ice and unnecessary. This goes for any engine. I appreciate the recommendations from William about your particular case, however a review of the SAE temp recommendations disagrees with your grade of oil. It shows on the high end of recommended viscosity. Run what you are comfortable with, just pointing this out. crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Oil Capacity
Not being as familiar with the Corvair as other 6 cyl engines I don't know what the "overfill" limit would be. What we always cautioned against happening with an overfill situation was the crankshaft getting completely covered with oil and then "beating" the oil like an egg beater and causing it to foam. I guess you could carefully add oil until this happened, and then drop back one quart to be sure it would not happen, doing the test with no load just static running. Or you could just add the extra 2 quarts and watch for this, which might be safer since William has tested the engine at this volume. I do not want to claim to be all knowing about oils, especially with all the advancements in synthetics today, I just hate to see anyone get fooled by high oil pressure numbers in the cold, and in reality part of their engine is not getting proper lubrication due to lack of flow causing excessive wear or the potential for failure. All of us work too hard to get to completion, the builders that started from scratch especially! Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Specs etc...
John to answer your question, in the higher rpm situations the oil pump can pump under pressure the oil volume from the pan faster than gravity can return the oil to the pan. Our system and virtually every auto engine made has a gravity return, unless it is using a dry sump setup, which I will not go into here. Since the size of these oil return holes and gravity are responsible for the oil returning to the pan, it is important that we don't run into the potential of pumping a majority of our oil into the heads leaving too little in the pan, which could "slosh" to one side and uncover the pickup tube, causing air to be sucked into the oil system, which is the type of starving I am talking about. I am running the stock oil system with oil cooler and filter in stock locations, so my oil pressure volume only needs to be what a new pump is stock on a new engine per Chevy. Mark Jones is running longer lines and remote setup and I agree this can/will cause some drop in the system pressure, delay in volume circulation, so it is appropriate for his system, and anyone like it (Mark L, & Bill Clapp) to do the same with in reason. Just remember that anything beyond stock pressures is probably excessive, and is also requiring more internal horsepower to generate, leaving a little bit less for the prop. Multi-viscosity oils are rated by the detergent additives that allow them to thicken and thin based on the outside ambient temp, and their temperature of operation. Serge, you probably saw numbers changed into the metric system, we here would see them posted on literature in F. The first number before the "W" is the winter rating, oil's ability to thin, and the second is the summer rating, and ability to thicken, or withstand high temperature before breakdown. The manufacturers do not add the "S" because it would be redundant. Doug and anyone who believes that running straight weight oils is just as good as multi-viscosity oils, just look at how long your engines last presently compared to the late 60's early 70's. This is pre-dominantly due to 2 things: oil technology, and internal temperature, which both work together to control wear. Filter technology also contributes here. Harley engines for years failed after very short times as compared to the Japanese motorcycle engines which were modified to take advantage of modern oils and technology. Not until this latest emergence of the Harley Evolution series of engines did Harley enter the world of truly modern engine design. The use of 20W50 oil in any engine that doesn't match the temp of the application for continued use, not just startup temp is foolhardy and an act of ignorance to what 50 years of development have accomplished. I do not trust "independent" testing in a lot of cases because typically the scope of the test is too narrow to be of much value, since it will only apply to a limited case/application. Assembly lubes are thick because of the need to maintain lubrication inside the engine in the case that the new oil system doesn't prime initially, or there is a delay in the oil pressure coming. All my assembly manuals have you run the engine for a short time, drop the oil out, change the filter to remove that assembly lube to prevent engine clogging, and then refill and run the engine for approx 50 miles or 10 hours of use and change again. This gets the additional metal out that gets shaved off parts as they seat themselves, hopefully not much. We are still running auto engines, and just like our previous discussion on oils, need to run what is appropriate for an auto engine, not aviation oils. Aviation oils are designed to both handle the particulars of those engines as well as deal with the much greater internal clearances that those engines have. Mark Jones' post shows the breakdown of the design of the oil he is using, and a review of the chart shows that his 15W40 has the ability to handle -33F temps, the 10W30 will go down to -40F. Thank you for that post Mark. This is what I was trying to illustrate. This looks like a very good "designer" oil for use since it covers a very broad range of oil temps and use, and does include that it is designed for both gasoline and diesel engines. The detergents in it for use with diesel engines should also help with the lead of 100LL that it will be exposed to also. Thanks again Mark. This will be my oil of choice as well after break-in. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Capacity
Again correct me if I am wrong but I believe the cam won't cause the foaming issue due to the lack of the counter balance weights. In all of the discussions from the automotive engineers I have read they always stated that this is the reason for it happening, that the crank weight have the flat edge going into the oil, and too much cause it not to just "glance" through it, but actually begin beating it like a blender, causing it to foam. Since this is not the case in the Corvair, it should be okay at the level you are speaking of, and Mark L confirms. This is good information for all the Corvair guys running stock pans (I know Bill Clapp is). Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Specs
Serge its Society of Automotive Engineers, lol, and they have a National group in the US and an International one that advocates as much standardization as reasonable among auto manufacturers. Their main function as I understand them is to create and maintain standards by which automobiles are measured by along with parts and support industry. By that I mean uniform standards for measuring things like horsepower and torque, and establishing standards for measuring fluid quality and use, like for oils and coolant. It seems to me that their purpose was more for accurate information getting to the consumer, and his ability to make selections based on a standard scale rather than just advertising. John as long as we keep the pickup tube immersed in motor oil we should be okay at any reasonable mounting angle, and once in flight positive g's will keep the oil returning properly. Maybe we should ask William Wynne if it should just become the standard to over fill the Corvair to the bottom of the pushrod tubes, and call this aviation full. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> pumps
I have a Facet pump on my Camaro due to changing engines to a late model 3.4 which had no provision for a mechanical pump, so it necessitated use of an electric. The fuel lines were very difficult to get to in the back near the tank which is where the Facet directions said to put it. I installed the pump on the front fender which works fine as long as I don't go full throttle on the engine, which then runs the float bowl dry after about a minute because the pump cannot keep up with the volume required. I don't think this is a problem with the 601, or the KR installs. It just needs to be as low as possible in the system to aid in priming. Colin crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Stability a little long sorry
I was always taught that stability in flight depended on several things, some that relate to one another and some that can be considered independently. For instance: a single example of improving aircraft stability that will effect other flight characteristics but can be accomplished singularly is the CG placement relative to the Center of Lift or Center of Pressure. The closer these 2 are the more the plane feels like it is balancing on a fence post. The further they are a part, within reason, the more stable the plane feels and behaves in flight. Close would be like balancing on one foot, vs. spread would be like standing with your feet a full stride a part. I think people are mistaking stability for effectiveness of the surfaces when increasing the arm or distance of a control or stabilizing surface. It sounds like the same thing, but by definition that I was taught, stability has more to do with the plane's response to being upset, where as effectiveness has to do with how good they work. A plane is evaluated for its Static Stability and its Dynamic Stability to determine if it is functioning within its design perimeters, and whether it is safe or not. Static Stability is what the plane does first right after being upset. Dynamic Stability is the plane's response over time. The elevator/rudder is effective due to its arm or distance from a datum point or measuring point decided on before beginning such measurements. This should be the same point used for weight & balance. When this arm or distance is increased, then it is like getting a bigger pry bar, the surface has more leverage over the same plane. If one increases the surface size, it has the same effect but at the penalty of more drag due to a larger area, hence the frame stretch, which is less of a penalty. I believe Troy's larger horizontal stabilizer and reduced elevator was an effort to reduce pitch sensitivity, not increase stability. I personally, and this is my opinion, find it difficult to attribute an increase in aircraft stability either solely, or due to using the new wing. All the planes mentioned have several changes made to them that would all have a part in increasing a plane's stability. My plane has the RAF48 wings with Dan Diehl skins, and when I am solo full of fuel the plane is very stable if the air is smooth. A 1100 pound plane is going to be "active" in bumpy air no matter what wing it has, or who is flying it. As an example Larry Flesner's plane has shorter wings, which will make his plane behave like a heavier KR due to the fact that there is less wing loaded with the same weight causing his to be more stable. The new wing will effect cruise speeds, stall speeds, takeoff and landing speeds directly. The reduced angle of incidence will make for less drag and higher cruise speeds due to the fuselage being oriented into the relative wind better. If you are about to start your wings and have not bought anything but raw materials, by all means use the new airfoil. But if you have already invested in Diehl skins, or like me already have an existing set of wings, fly them. The wings alone are not going to make that much of a difference compared to attentions to details like CG control, and keeping the plane light etc... From my personal flying, and what I am reading from other pilots with both airfoils, they fly enough alike that you would be hard pressed to tell a difference unless you had 2 planes just alike, weighing the same, flown by the same pilots, with each wing. Too many other variables that have been incorporated to improve their planes to say that the new wing is doing it all. Alot of "The Gang" are still flying the old wing and having a BLAST! Just get her finished. To quote Dan, the time for building is long since over Corvair engine on the stand beginning teardown... crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Flight hrs
I got 104.6 to catch Larry. You got 20.2 to catch me Mark, and I think you will before I get back in the air DANG! crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Pitch sensitivity
Jeff Scott just mentioned about increasing stability by making the horizontal stab longer but still having issues with the pitch sensitivity of the plane. I cannot say for other pilots, but I have flown more than 15 different models of aircraft and find that there are quite a few aircraft that could be considered to be pitch sensitive depending upon what part of the flight regime you are referring to. ALL planes are sensitive at speeds above 120 mph or approx 105 knots. I think where the KR seems to get a bad rap is that by comparison to a basic trainer, i.e.: J3 Cub, or Cessna 152/172, the KR is much more sensitive. However, there is a whole list of planes that display the same sensitivity and increased elevator authority that the KR has. The Extra 300, Pitts S1 & S2, Glasair I, Thorp T-18, Sidewinder, Mustang II, just to name a few. Builders can dampen this tendency to over control by using what I have documented on my website, taken from illustrations on Adrian Carter's website. Between the 2 sites you can find how to de-tune the elevator to require more or larger inputs from the stick to get the same motion at the elevator. I have flown behind this arrangement for over 30 hours and love it. It also has the effect of balancing the elevator response to the aileron response for better control harmony. I also followed a suggestion from Larry Flesner and re-drilled the pivot locating hole in the aileron bell crank inboard by 1/2 an inch to get the full 20 degrees up and 10 degrees down deflection from the ailerons. By doing this and what Dan Heath suggested about spacing the pushrod down to make it level so that it is actuating in a straight line, accomplishes this. By improving the aileron motion and de-tuning the elevator, I believe that our KR has excellent control authority and harmonizing. As good as any plane I have flown. All these things can be accomplished by a builder at any stage of construction, and with very little extra effort over the original assembly, just changes. Obviously use at your own risk as any suggestion found on the KR Net, but it is working for several builders. To throw out one more answer, Mark L already posted a more elaborate answer but suffice to say that a VW or Corvair will probably stop turning, not windmill. crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Modifications
Netters Jeff and I have both presented 2 different ways of modifying a KR, specifically in my case a KR2, to correct some of the complaints other pilots have had with the original design. The internal changes I spoke of make corrections that do not require any airframe re-construction, but only require the actuation methods and ratios to be adjusted. This is very simple and have been used by MANY builders in one form or fashion for years. One right way of doing things. Other builders have added to the horizontal and vertical stabilizer areas without adding to the control surface, increasing the stabilizer effectiveness. Based on pilot reports this works well also to tame the KR down some. However, so that builders know they have choices and choose what is best for their application, by increasing the size of these surfaces it has an effect on how rapid the response is from the elevator or rudder. Increasing the size of these surfaces has the effect of making it harder to move the tail around which adds to stability but also slows the response from the elevator and rudder, which is how it "corrects" the pitch sensitivity. At speed this is good. When slow, I prefer the fabulous elevator authority that I have with the original KR. Since in my opinion pitch control is the single most important control that you have, having authority literally all the way through the point of a stalled wing gives me a great deal of comfort. I chose not to change the effectiveness of these controls, simply their actuation ratios, mainly decrease the elevator, and increase the aileron, no change to rudder, to make the airplane more fun to fly. All surfaces still deflect the same amount as designed and have the same authority. Each builder will have to decide for himself what is best for himself. As in each plane style and design, there is more than one right way to do it. crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Modifications
Well said Mark L. My position is and always has been that we are all collaborating to assist builders in constructing the safest airplanes that they can. My purpose in contrasting the different developments was to assure builders who have done like me and purchased nearly complete aircraft, or are nearing completion, that they need not begin major surgery on their planes in order to fly with the least amount of risk, and the greatest enjoyment. If a builder has not completed his boat and wings, then by all means, lengthen the fuselage the entire 16 inches of the longerons as supplied, as Mark stated he should have done during that phase. Get copies of the new wing plans from Mark, and build them also, adjust the angle of incidence as prescribed by both Bill Clapp, and Mark Langford, and you will have a much nicer plane. Incorporate as many of the other enhancements that builders have come up with that suits you. My remarks of doing less are mainly for the builders in similar positions to myself to know that with a few select things accomplished, they can have a very enjoyable plane to fly. The most important point in all of this cannot be stressed more, and that is that a pilot/builder MUST keep the CG in the range that it belongs, preferably the first 4 inches, but must be the first 6 inches (the last 2 inches are too far to the rear all have agreed). This is in all conditions and flight attitudes, and all weights. A doubter only has to read the NTSB report of a C172 pilot out of New Smyrna Beach Airport that loaded up his family for the holiday, after weighing everyone at the FBO, and did NOT perform a weight and balance check. He was 100 pounds UNDER the maximum allowable weight for the model, but had 150 pounds too much weight in the baggage area (he thought you could combine placards of floor and hat rack totals). After lift off climbout gradually came to a stop out of ground effect and the aircraft stalled into the swamps just north of the Indian River. Just some thoughts crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> FLY SAFE VS RISK MANAGEMENT
No flame war necessary or considered As a current CFI and ASC with FAA I do practice and teach RISK MANAGEMENT. However, just like so many of things we post here get converted to layman's terms, so does my recommendation to all pilots to remain as safe as possible given we are delving into an art and act of dangerous consequences. As a former military person you were also taught that restraint was better than speaking your mind completely lest you anger the CO regardless of the request to speak freely! LOL Keep it fun and informative Doug. My cautions are not discourage anyone from being an experimenter, or for using ANY available system that is an improvement over the existing equipment available. I agree with WW who quotes another A who stated" as soon as we are made aware of a superior product or part, we are obligated to use that part". As WW said, we balance between spending our remaining years on the couch saving our money, or calculating our risk, and attempting to stay within those parameters and go fly. I have met with WW himself, as well as read his manual and countless others. My cautions are simply, if you have the know how, use the available technology, if not, either get educated, or stay with what you know. That is the lowest risk option, to use Doug's approach. LOL I say FLY SAFE because most of our reader/builders are from the old school, and understand that we are just trying to be as safe as we can, not imply that flying is a safe venture. You are preaching to the choir Doug, save your breath. All here subscribe to that frame of mind one way or the other. My posts are aimed and intended to prompt a pilot/builder to think and keep thinking about his goals and his project, as are yours. I have read all your posts and enjoy them, if for no better reason to make me think as well. It takes all of us to present the vast sum of knowledge that exists on this net, that none other can compare. Keep them coming. All benefit with the exchange, even when it is a contradictory point of view. Allows everyone (including the author) to see all sides. (stubbornly) FLY SAFE! lol Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Mechanical
Have you priced a mechanical up to date fuel injection system from say a IO-360 lately? I can build a whole carbureted Corvair for the cost of the injection system alone. Point is not that it isn't available or good. It is whether for the money does it meet the builders needs or is it affordable vs. old reliable carb and gravity feed for these builders. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Flight test summary and checklists
Here you go Paul Let me know if you need hardcopy. If you have windows it will convert to wordpad if you don't have Word. Just choose to save it as a wordpad doc instead of word. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> sorry
Sorry gang not meant for net Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> CFIs
Selfish plug here but don't forget the CFI's who go WAY beyond the average pilot to be able to teach students like yourself the art of flying. I personally think it is a labor of love because you don't make any money at it to speak of, but there is a REAL thrill when your student finally solo's. That is like having a baby! You are just as thankful that they return with all their fingers and toes! LOL I a 4 year CFI with nearly 1400 hours dual GIVEN, and I have soloed 8 students on initial solo's, and have had nearly 80 different students as entries in my book for various levels of training, and nothing is more rewarding than seeing that student doing a good job on that first solo. Ameet you will get there. Right now it feels like you are drinking from a fire hydrant. It does get better. I sometimes think I was more pumped up than the student, and they were just relieved! LOL. This love of teaching and sharing flying is why I am working (slowly) on a documented transition training program for the KR, and will be refining this work at this year's Gathering. MAYBEif you are short enough, lucky pilots can even get some dual time with me at the Gathering (remember my seats are forward 5 inches). She will be sporting her new Corvair powerplant and cowling. Colin & Beverly Rainey Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Axle
Eduardo Richard Finch reports how several builders have used the common 9 inch Ford station wagon or truck axle with success. It is bi-metal so it will flex with loads instead of breaking, is rated for far more than the prop stress, and has its own bearing assembly that is bolted on to the outer plate of the PSRU. Have a machine shop spline the axle to match the top gear, and taper the end to go in the seat of the support bearing on the rear of the shaft, again Finch mentions use of the larger inner bearing of the front spindle assembly from the same vehicle in a custom housing made to allow the bearing race to be tapped into it, and then the bearing installed from the inside of the 2 plates, with a solid backing plate, and an axle seal on the inside that the axle passes through, and seats in the bearing. Pictures and more details are available in the book by Richard Finch, Converting Auto Engines for Experimental Aircraft AS, Wicks, and Sportys all carry his book. crain...@cfl.rr.com http://kr-builder.org/Colin/index.html KR2(td) N96TA Sanford, FL Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Design specs Long Sorry
Keith The design specs are in the adds for the KR on their website, which clearly spell out a gross design weight of 1050 for the S model and I believe 980 for the KR2. Don't remember the KR1 specs. I believe Mark Langford's site also recaptures this information as well. I will try to make this clear. The KR is NO different than any other airplane: if you get it too slow, it stalls, period. My example with Diehl wing skins, and standard KR2 taildragger configuration gives plenty of warning prior to stalling, with all the buffeting and sloppy controls you expect from the old reliable trainers and such. It will also remind you that it does not like secondary stalls, those stalls entered while still recovering from the first stall, by showing its aggravation with MUCH larger responses, and slower recovery. I am not sure if Dana Overall has compared to his Bonanza, but I have compared the KR2 to a Mooney production airplane, and both the speeds and stalls, climbs etc... are very similar. None of them stall safely anywhere close to the ground, so the monitoring of airspeed throughout the pattern is very important. Getting slow in ANY plane in the pattern is dangerous and can be deadly, due to not having the altitude necessary to recover from the stalled condition prior to striking an obstruction or the ground. This is why several KR builders recommend taking your KR out for the first time and climbing to a safe altitude, say 3000' above your airport, and then getting to know your plane through slow flight and stalls, prior to making any approach to land. As with all light weight planes, the addition of weight requires more lift which can require more speed, so pattern speeds at gross weight will probably be higher than at solo half fuel weight. Recently a Bonanza from Louisiana was attempting to land after running out of fuel at Flying Baron Airpark just southwest of Leesburg City Airport. The pilot attempted to stretch the glide too far by using a speed better for solo flight than with 4 on board, as was his loading that day. They spun from about 200 to 300 feet up, just a 1/2 mile from the end of the runway, all on board lost. Respect for airspeed is not just for the KR. A better procedure than trying to land "crooked" on the runway, is one I got from AOPA Air Safety Foundation. Make your first approach with NO intention of landing to become familiar with the winds and how they change from approach into ground effect. Fly down the runway within a few feet, maybe 2 to 5 feet to get a feel for in ground effect, but leave sufficient power in for good control and climbout when nearing the other end. Then plan the next pattern to end up with the aircraft on the upwind side of the centerline, like you are trying to land as if the runway was only as wide as the space between the centerline, and the runway edge on the crosswind side. This allows for the accidental drifting of the plane in ground effect towards the downwind side, as you transition into ground effect and do the "rudder dance" with room to spare to the downwind edge of the runway. It is possible for the mains to be down, and the tail high, and still have the plane "skipping" towards that side due to the speed still being high enough to prevent full airplane weight from "planting" the mains. This is unsettling to say the least if you touchdown on the centerline, and then watch it skip to the wind side as the plane gets pushed away from it. Also remember that you should always add at LEAST half the gust factor/speed to your approach speed in winds, and limit flaps to lower settings if your style flaps make significant amounts of supplemental lift. Belly boards should not be effected since they probably make next to no lift and just drag. As a reference, I typically will reduce flaps by 10 degrees (depending on the plane) for every 5 knots over 10 knots in wind, regardless of direction. This will normally allow me to make the same pattern and approach with the wind, that I make on a calm day. With the KR2, I delay use of the belly board until close final so that the extra lift compensates for the wind. I also practice what I teach, which is a stabilized approach below 300' or simply no more crab, but wing low, opposite rudder on final. I do not teach nor practice the "kickout" method of landing in winds. Large planes, air carriers can do this easy, but I have found in small planes below say 6000# takeoff weight, it makes for far too much going on just above the runway. My opinion here, not intended to start a thread on the merits or problems with using a kickout. If it works for you, use it. Being consistent here in winds and ground effect is as valuable as technique, as long as it is a good technique based on sound procedures. FLY SAFE!! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Crosswinds
Several questions need to be asked of the RV pilot before rendering any form of evaluation of whether he made a good call or not, and just got bit by unexpected wind gusts. How much recency did he have at the time of the accident? How much of that time was cross country, and how much was maintaining proficiency in landings? How much of that 500 hours was in the RV? When was his last flight review? This would give an indication when the last time that a "second opinion" of his flight skills was rendered. How much total time in type? Conventional or trigear? The Principle of Primacy makes us want to revert back to whatever our primary training was in the further away we are from recency in a new or different model. What does Van publish is the recommended cross wind component for the model he was flying? More than enough models have been completed to find this information documented. How long had he been flying that day before attempting that landing? Many times good pilots who normally would not make a mistake or would be able to handle a given situation get bit because they are fatigued and don't recognize its impact on their flying until the point when they no longer can fix the problem. Were there any distractions or problems right before landing that prevented this pilot from being able to make a good/safe landing? Take this opportunity to study what happened to this pilot, who thankfully did not die nor his passenger, and pose these other questions to your self as you plan your first and subsequent flights. I personally think that BEFORE a first flight, or any flight in a model with little to no experience solo, a pilot should have nearly the same proficiency and skill level as he did the day he got his last rating. If not take a CFI WITH experience in that type of plane with you. Once our KR is back in service I intend on assisting as many KR pilots log some time getting acquainted with a KR similar to their ship. Other makes have this, and their safety record is great. Ours should too. Engine out of the back of the truck and on the stand Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Flight test summary and checklists
I have not posted them to my site, not that Dan would not put them there, but just didn't think to, but I have a normal checklist, and an emergency checklist that I put together for my KR2 from a Cessna 152 set and just omitted or added as necessary for my KR. I also have a flight test summary report that I put together for presentation to the DAR when he was inspecting the plane, so that he would have an idea how I intended to flight test the plane. I would be glad to share them with anyone who asks off line and I will forward copies so Dan can add links to them on the site. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Checklists
Quick note to anyone using my checklists modified or not: They are set to be printed landscape not portrait, so you need to change your printing preferences for best results. Also, the layout is for being able to fold them, and then laminate them for long lasting. Office depot charges $1 per page so for $2 you have checklists to last a lifetime. Also, little trick I learned in my flight training: fold the pages first, then go have them laminated. The new laminate will follow the folds and make it much easier to fold them after laminated, then if you leave them straight and then try to fold them afterwards. Then store them in your map pouch so that they are always in the plane. Fly Safe! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Checklists
Hey Jim Carpooling would be cool, if you want to go on Sunday. We are also going to the KR dinner Friday night. I have to work Wed & Thur nights, but am off the weekend. Ted is coming up on Sat to pick up the engine, so Sunday looks best for going to Lakeland. Are you planning on going to the dinner also? Brian has all the details of that. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Corvair
Corvair weight minus prop on the front starter setup and basic carb setup is 240# per WW. Different props would have to be added to the and the CG center of the engine is slightly further forward, but the WW mount relocates the engine closer to the firewall, so this is a moot point. Carb/intake choice, battery, alternator, fuel pumps if used, and ignition parts will effect this. 240# is with the WW intake to a Stromberg carb, dynamo alt, and WW dual ignition (detailed on ML's website). I believe that is using the stock exhaust logs also, but you would need to check with him to be sure. We are using the WW motor mount, welded head intakes, stock exhaust logs, standard prop hub WW, front starter, stock oil system, gravity feed fuel delivery, and wooden prop. I am also using full-sized alternator, full sized battery, so I expect mine to come in closer to 250-260# installed. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> VW 20 degree
Larry That engine was originally designed to be a 20 degree V6 so that manufacturing costs could be significantly reduced by only having to make one head for a V6. The idea originated from the Volvo 5 cylinder which is cut from a block of cast aluminum. It also simplifies the intake system due to the centrally mounted plenum and injection rails which was nearly impossible to get right when using earlier carb systems. That engine costs no more to produce than a double overhead cam 4 cyl, but with 6 cyl output. They may have changed it to 15 degrees to dampen more of the vibrations associated with either a 4 cyl up and down or V engine rotating mass that is not matched balanced like a V8 (issues that they have with 90 degree V6 but don't in 60 degree V6). Cool design though I don't know how practical for plane due to the need for computer to make it most effective... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Fuel injection in planes
Not to start a new thread on a topic that has been much discussed and bunches of information can be found by a search in the archives, but to summarize for the new builders, at the risk of over simplifying: Fuel injection is the cats meow for a combustion engine. It solves all kinds of problems with intake design, fuel atomization, balanced mixture delivery, light weight engines, and so on... The problems with using these systems on an airplane come in 2 basic parts: 1) is the complexity of installing it by a person who is not thoroughly familiar with its design, so that he understands how critical the small details are in the installation, like how using just a different temp thermostat in the engine (water cooled setup) changes the way the computer controls things. Or the absence of a transmission, and catalytic converter/muffler assemblies changes cylinder dilution, and also has a negative effect on EGR operation due to reduced flow (ALL modern fuel injected engines use some form of Exhaust Gas Recirculation to reduce NOX emissions, and control detonation). 2) the difficulty of developing a light weight but strong PSRU, light weight cooling systems that are adequate, and having light weight but redundant systems to protect against failure are a huge challenge for the average builder. There are successful systems which I applaud, but most are expensive, and without the whole engine package being designed to maximize the injection system, are much more expensive than they are worth for just a smooth running engine. It is not an acceptance issue. Most builders acknowledge that it is better. It is the facts of an economical and safe alternative to systems that function without even electricity. I TOTALLY love modern electronic engines. But the thought of what would have happened the other day when leaving Massey Ranch Airpark and its 4000 foot long strip, which put me over the trees at 100 feet and no where to land, if I had lost my engine due to the one in a million electronic glitch, or the high pressure fuel pump failed causing total power loss, it is not if I would have crashed but where and how bad. It is not if it is good or not, but how it fails. Most builders don't understand how it works well enough to adapt it with the proper amount of support systems to make the takeoff failure not happen. If you have to take your car to a mechanic to do more than change the oil, because you don't know how to work on it, there is your answer for whether or not you should put such a system in your plane. No offense meant to anyone. I just know that I have worked on fuel injected cars for over 15 years, and WHEN I do install such a system into my plane, it will NOT just be a bolt-on setup. It is a major undertaking and should be treated as such. The KISS method works for most pilots because it is easy to install and get right, easy to maintain, and easy to troubleshoot when they have the inevitable problems that come with all things mechanical. For more discussion search the archives. There have been many threads on the topic, to include and extended one between Scott Cable and myself contrasting auto vs. aviation engines. FLY SAFE! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Fw: faasafety.gov - FAA Newsletters "RESTRICTED AREA OVER FORT STEWART, GA."
Read carefully Southeast pilots - Original Message - From: faasafety.gov To: crain...@cfl.rr.com Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 3:50 PM Subject: faasafety.gov - FAA Newsletters "RESTRICTED AREA OVER FORT STEWART, GA." RESTRICTED AREA OVER FORT STEWART, GA. FLIGHTS INTO RESTRICTED AREA R-3005 AND R-3007 OVER FORT STEWART, GEORGIA. There have been numerous unauthorized flights into Restricted areas R-3005 and R-3007 over Fort Stewart, Ga., by General Aviation Aircraft. These violations are detrimental to the mission requiring that all ground operations cease until the violating aircraft exits the airspace. The violating aircraft is also at risk of from live rounds being fired into the air. CHECK YOUR NOTAMS. Notams are updated daily by the U.S. Army, Check with flight service or ATC for the status of these Notams. For further information please contact: PAT BRUCE, PROGRAM SAFETY MANAGER, Atlanta Flight Standards District Office 404-305-7280 E-Mail: pat.br...@faa.gov Be a Leader, not a Follower faasafety.gov keeps you on the leading edge! faasafety.gov | Email Preferences | Local Contact Information | Opt Out Do not reply to this email as it is an unmonitored alias. Email webmaster for comments or questions.
KR> Wynne Assembly Plant
Well being in Florida has its advantages. Today I drove over and checked out the Wynne Engine Plant at Massey Ranch Airport, and let me tell youhis place is chock full of good stuff. They are thrashing in high gear to be ready for Sun n Fun, so I didn't expect much but a few words, drop off my list of stuff I wanted from the online catalog, and feel grateful that they opened the door when I knocked. MAN WAS I MISTAKEN! I was met by Grace at the door with a very pleasant hello, I will get William, and you are? Next walks up William, eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich I think, and grinning from ear to ear. He greeted me warmly, shook my hand, and said "Come on, I will give you the tour". I proceeded to walk through an engine guy's paradise! I love motors, and William does too. There was a wall covered with Corvair cases, no less than 12 in varying stages of buildup, and modification, one that looked like Pat Panzerra's, built by a "hot rod" shop with what the owner called "lots of good stuff", that had the plug wires on all wrong for starters, LOL! There were 2 skunkworks setups that I wasn't allowed to see, that will be unveiled at Sun n Fun, the Tri-Motor project, and more After I forced my bottom jaw back closed, and quit looking like a 2 year old seeing Santa for the first time, I was actually able to carry on an intelligent conversation with William, and we discussed my KR2. Well one thing lead to another, and 2 hours later I drove away with a complete Corvair engine, and almost all the fixins for an aircraft engine. I talked to my wife all the way home about the visit. The most impressive thing was not the level of caring and consideration that everyone there had, but the fact that William himself stopped what he was doing and helped me for 2 hours, even with Sun n Fun right around the corner. Anyone can be gracious when they are having a good day, but everyone there was most interested in ME having a good day, and then smiling for the effort! THANKS WILLIAM AND GANG...THAT'S A PROMISE FLYING WITH CORVAIR POWER BY MEMORIAL DAY OR SOONER! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Demonstrated crosswind
Orma and netters Those who read regularly will remember that I made a post not long ago stating what I had found was the demonstrated crosswind capability for my KR2. This aircraft being a standard KR2 built to plans with no airframe, or control surface modifications in size or amount of deflection, I felt this information would go a long way to helping other KR pilots in judging crosswinds for landing, the same way that certified planes publish what a skilled pilot found was the safe maximum crosswind component for a particular plane. Orma's experience today supports that information, and I strongly recommend to ALL KR pilots that until you have a great deal of experience with your own model, possibly as much as 300 hours or more, depending upon your own total experience, that you heed what we both have found, and that is: Maximum safe winds total: 20 knots gusting to 30 knots from ANY direction including straight down runway. Maximum crosswind component: 15 knots total including any gust factor, 90 degrees to the runway. Use an E6B flight computer to calculate the 90 degree crosswind component after getting the airport's winds prior to landing or takeoff. Also these numbers are by experienced pilots with LOTS of recency of time. Deduct from these totals if you are rusty! I say these things for the benefit and safety of KR pilots and in no way want to appear to brag, but rather to provide advance knowledge for the unknowing, or less experienced pilots among us. FLY SAFE!! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Ignition
Air fuel mixtures are not easy to light off in a cylinder, that is why the gap is so important. You can get the spark to jump across nearly 1/2" of open uncompressed air, when just holding a grounded plug. But put that same plug into the engine with just twice its recommended gap, and it will not fire the mix at all, or will run very badly if it does run. The compression is not for lighting the fuel as in a diesel, but for speeding the burn rate without exploding it, so that reasonable work can be gotten out of the engine, and to make an air pump become self supporting. Notice the same job is performed by an electric air compressor, just for a different purpose: filling a tank with compressed air, not turning a drive shaft. Suggestion: you have added fuel, including starter fluid. No start. That is first basic element of running. Second: you have checked for the presence of spark, and you have one, weak but have one. That is second basic element. Third: you have not reported what your compression is? You need to check that. If compression is low, all else can be perfect and still no run. That is the third basic element of all combustion engines. Without those 3 all else does not matter! If the plugs are wet, and you have good compression, you know that you have fuel, and proper compression. Do the compression test the auto check way, not aviation way. Spin the engine to observe peak compression on a fresh battery with at least 3 compression strokes (needle jumps 3 times) to show peak compression running. If you do not get at least 85 to 90 pounds on a standard auto compression gauge, then you have a problem, stop wasting time trying to make a low compression engine run, and get the engine compression right. Either your valve timing is off (was off from assembly) or age has gotten to your cylinders, and they need work to reseal them. All a 4 cylinder needs is 2 weak cylinders to prevent running. This is an auto engine so all your specs will be in auto terms. If this compression is good, then check the valve timing to see where the cylinder is (you can use the compression gauge again to know that compression is beginning, to line up mag timing). While approaching TDC on exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will still be open so no compression growing. Do this by hand smoothly and you will see it start in plenty of time to know TDC compression. Jim Faughn has a very good instruction page on setting your mag timing on his sight, go to krnet.org, scroll down to Jim's page and look for timing engine. Tells you all you need to properly time mag. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Air dam
Mine uses the oil cooler as an air dam, or as part of the air dam as you will. The baffling comes up to it, and then it provides the necessary restriction to make air go thru either it or heads. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Fuel injection
This post is for William Jefferies and netters First off let me dispel a myth that fuel injection ALONE improves engine performance and economy. It does not. What is does do is improve engine operation by providing better fuel atomization which results in smoother operation of the engine throughout its operating range. In order for an engine to get better economy by adding fuel injection with NO other changes to the engine, the fuel injection would have to make it so that the required fuel to the engine for proper mixtures would be less, so less fuel is burned at the same rpm as when it was carbureted. This of course is ridiculous. Simply changing the way the fuel is introduced into the engine is not going to change the amount required for proper fuel ratio. Typically what you see happen, especially in cars is that the manufacturer, having added fuel injection and increasing their control over fuel delivery, will also raise the compression ratio, and add more timing advance, because they computer control the timing already, and have knock sensors to pick up on any detonation long before the human ear would ever hear it. This allows for the computer to then make the mixture go beyond the stotiometric or ideal mix (14.7 pounds of air to 1 pound of fuel for auto gas ) to get better fuel economy, but then as needed richen up and retard timing to protect the engine and still preserve performance, as in while accelerating. I worked in the auto industry for over 12 years as a performance technician, and found all this information very well documented in William Wynne's Corvair conversion book. The fuel injection systems that really add performance to the engine operation require being installed as a package to get that performance. The problem becomes the redundancy required for safe flight conditions in the event of the different types of failures that can occur, though they may not happen often, one has to be prepared for when that "one time" happens to you. Throttle body injection is a total waste of time, for its added complexity, fuel pressure increase over gravity systems or mechanical pumps, and its total reliance on electrical power. I have fought with alternator problems for 6 months, and I can tell you that I am very glad to have the Slick Mag and gravity feed carb, which guarantees I will keep running even with dead battery. A mechanical pump on a Corvair is a typical GM style mechanical pump capable of maintaining fuel supply even from the wings of a KR if the line is already primed and no high G maneuvers are performed. I have sat here and fantasized about how good my plane would perform with a sequential fuel injected engine installed, and if I lost that engine at some 4000 or 5000 feet that I would be fine to execute and emergency landing, no big deal. That is what we train for as commercial pilots. We CIF's are forever pulling our students engines at 3000 feet and making them find a suitable landing spot. Then the other day I had a low power situation on takeoff, where I was only climbing 150 fpm, and I felt like I did in a light twin engine plane on single engine, that I was going down, just where was I going to be forced to land. There was no where good, hangars, trees, houses, too small of back yards ( I am good but not THAT good ), city streets with power wires and traffic What if that was when the power died, the engine quit, the fuel pump died, or the ECM went into limp mode ( factory programming still has that mode for mutli failure detection ). My point is that it belongs in aviation, but with proper planning and correct installation. It is NOT as easy as ripping it out of the car/truck, and installing it in the plane as is. A proper electronic fuel injection aviation package must be engineered as a package into the plane. I believe Mark Langford went away from it for this reason, and I know from reading his manual that William Wynne did. It takes alot more know how of the system to package an aviation version properly than just cut and paste. Otherwise, I would already have done it! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> spinner inspection
Mark the backing plate needs inspection each pre-flight as well because that is what failed on mine and almost cost me the front cowling. I think mine got damaged during the hurricanes when the spinner took that hit, but the crack took 24 hours of flight time to show itself. By then it had cracked almost all the way around, but was hidden by the prop until the day the prop was actually making contact with the nose of the cowling. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Parachutes
Not to talk down or belittle anyone, but read closely what the wording is: each occupant shall That means anyone on board pilot included. No exception is made to while solo, or receiving dual, or not in an approved acrobatic aircraft. The aircraft does not determine the requirement, the maneuver executed by the pilot. The parachute requirement extends to all occupants on board, not to all PASSENGERS. Also, when dealing with the Regs, please be very careful about looking at one paragraph in a given section. Often the subordinate paragraphs will refer back to the opening paragraph or even a preceding reg for part of its definition. Rarely does one reg stand alone. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Parachutes
I would like to try and close out this topic, simply because this thread only applies to those who desire to perform acrobatic maneuvers with their KRs. (c) Unless each occupant of the aircraft is wearing an approved parachute, no pilot of a civil aircraft carrying any person (other than a crewmember) may execute any intentional maneuver that exceeds- (1) A bank of 60 degrees relative to the horizon; or (2) A nose-up or nose-down attitude of 30 degrees relative to the horizon. To be clear here, a pilot is an occupant of the aircraft whether he be flying solo or with a passenger. Therefore, he is required to wear a parachute in order to comply with the requirements of Part 91.307 (c), when carrying a passenger who is NOT a required crewmember for the operation of that aircraft, ie: aircraft that requires 2 man crew ( like some versions of KingAir, or business jet). Part 91.303 goes on to define aerobatic/acrobatic flight as any intentional maneuver involving an abrupt change in an aircraft's attitude, an abnormal attitude, or abnormal acceleration, not necessary for normal flight. This is a case of where one must look back to a previous part to clearly define just how wide or encompassing aerobatic flight can be depending on who in the FAA you talk to. The exemptions only apply to flight instruction given by a CFI or ATP, WHERE that flight instruction is necessary for the completion of a rating, ie: the spin flight, spin endorsement required to get a CFI rating. It does not apply to aerobatic training in an aircraft for proficiency or some other purpose. In closing most of our KRs cannot stay within the boundaries of the weight required to give maximum protection to the airframe with a passenger, so this should be a moot point from here on anyway. Have fun, on the way to re-install the prop... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> For sale
Netters I have a firewall forward VW type I 1915cc engine with Zenith updraft carb, dual ignition, Diehl case and mounts, complete with mounts for standard KR2, engine has hydraulic lifters so no valve adjustments, at Steve Bennett kit engine built by hi-performance shop in OK, with a prop, spare test prop included, also 4 into 2 exhaust. Those needing an engine could be flying in days instead of months. Engine has approximately 70 hours total on it. Everything needed to run included with sale. $2500 neg. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Contact
Oh Forgot! PLEASE save everyone from reading inquiry posts and contact me off net. Colin & Beverly Rainey crain...@cfl.rr.com Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Carbon in Heads
I believe the WW manual details that this carbon will get cleaned up during the 3 angle valve job, so don't mess up the chambers trying to get it out. If it doesn't then you can clean it up during the CC process Mark L details on his page. I will check it again tonight. I am studying to replace the VW with Corvair since I too believe the VW is great for solo work but under powered for the kind of flying I want to do, short fields, take off over obstacles, etc... Soaking the valves in carb cleaner deep enough to immerse them in should get it off them. The head carbon can be lightly buffed with a Dremel wire wheel or coarse POLISHING wheel, not the grinding or sanding wheels. They are used to clean up the flashing and smooth the roughness left by the original factory castings. For EXTREMELY detailed instructions on this check Marl L's site. Look under Corvair motor... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> First Flight Prep
Mark Jones and others I don't want to imply that your prep is not good, but rather suggest some variation or substitution that will raise your skill level and better sharpen your skill "pen" for handling your first flights (we are hoping for many for you). Don't do the approaches at the speeds recommended for that aircraft, but rather at the expected approach speeds of the KR which should be slightly faster. Just 5 knots on each leg of the approach will make a big difference in your timing and mental prep for transition onto the runway. The faster patterns will better prepare you for how things will be happening faster. Also practice some power off 180 degree approaches to the runway to sharpen your ability to handle an engine out if it occurs. If it is windy, even better. This will develop your ability to plan better on a moments notice. Perform some landings with reduced or no flap landings, to illustrate a malfunction in your system or the float from most KRs with no flaps or speed brake. And make sure to practice some go arounds at differing points in the pattern. One last suggestion. Try several laps down the runway after roundout, where approximately 1400-1600rpms are left in where you hold the plane off the runway, and fly in ground effect the majority of the length of the runway, powering up at the end to climb out as normal. This time spent in ground effect for several laps would require at least 5-7 separate approaches and landings to get the same level of experience in ground effect. Get very comfortable handling an airplane here and your first flight will be much better. Then combine this skill with familiarity with your KR by doing several high speed taxi passes, and "hops" to fly in ground effect and note the difference with your plane. This skill and familiarity was in valuable on my first flight and gave me complete confidence that I could land safely, even with no airspeed indicator (debris from runway blocked pitot right after liftoff) because I knew what the sight picture in ground effect would be and how the plane would behave. The one thing on that flight that I WASN'T concerned about was landing due to this familiarity. Good luck and take it at your own pace, whatever that is... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> FAA Experimental Info
Brain and netters The publication AFS-600 has all the pertinent Advisory Circulars for Experimentals from beginning to end. The separate A/Cs contained within are: A/C 20-27E, A/C 20-139, A/C 21-12B, A/C 39-7C, A/C 65-23A, A/C 90-89A, A/C 103-7. Also necessary for review is FAA Order 8130.2D These are all the separate parts that make up AFS-600 which is what they hand out at Flyins free from the FAA for certifying Experimental Aircraft. If you are going to Sun n Fun, you can get one from the temporary FSDO set up in the Lakeland Safety Center (big blue building next to the temporary tower/ATC trailer). If you cannot get one, let me know and I will get you one and send it to you. I am an ASC volunteer with the FAA and we give out all kinds of free handouts and A/C printouts for pilots who ask for them. VFR Arrival Video - Windows Media Player v9.0 check out the video Sun 'n Fun 2005 FAA NOTAM I have also enclosed a link to this year's arrival procedures for aircraft wishing to fly to Lakeland. Let me know if the link does not work. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> First Flight
Well done Mark Even though it is with a training wheelLOL Gotta love it! Hey I will race ya if you take 2 plug wires off... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> link
http://www.faa.gov/fsdo/orl/Arrival 2005 Sun N Fun.wmv Here is the correct link but you will have to copy and paste the entire line into your browser. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> First Flight/Training Wheel
Mark That was precious!! I love that one about the slot! LMAO. I got tears laughing so hard. I am very proud of you man, and if the man had told me it would have taken less than 2 weeks to change over this one to tri-gear I probably would have had it done. I just didn't want to wait, and now I really enjoy the challenge that it presents to make me maintain my flying skill with the plane. You are wise to stick with what your majority hours are in though. You will spend many more landings in the familiar zone. Heck there may come a day here where I opt out and modify for the "training wheel" just for ease of landing and taxi. Good job and your first flight! I know you feel it was way over due, but I really believe God held you back until now, so that you and the weather, and the plane were truly ready. I can't wait to get that Corvair motor on mine. Jim Ferris called last night and we are going to look together for a couple of motors, and since he lives right here in Sanford, we are going to build 2 up together. Keep in touch brother, and HHHAA! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Sun n Fun
Thought this might help more, one netter already wrote me about it. The Sun n Fun correct link is: http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/ Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> Parachute
Common sense might say that it does, but the letter of the FAR says each occupant must wear a personal parachute, and a reserve chute, etc No it does not. Ballistic chute is viewed like a fire extinguisher, additional safety equipment. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
KR> 2 people midget
I resemble that remark about MG Midgets! I personally would not have a problem with driving an MG Midget everywhere I went, as long as there was someone on the other end to winch me out of the car when I arrived at my destination! One doesn't get out of the Midget (having owned a 1973 model) but rather "rolls" out to exit. Much the same way one typically doesn't step out of a KR but rather "extricates" or climbs out similar to exiting a fighter plane, NOT walking out like a commercial flight or sliding the seat back and stepping out of the ubiquitous C172! BUT, this is the appeal of the plane. To have a fun little airplane that is nimble like a fighter, if CG is managed stable for its weight and size, fast and economical to operate, and tailored to exactly what the builder desires. If one builds carefully, and manages the CG well, the KR makes a great cross country plane solo. The tight confines make remaining comfortable with 2 on board a challenge for long hours. My opinion is that if you are looking to travel to the opposite coast quickly, you are cheaper to just buy tickets and fly commercially, than having your own plane no matter what model. The idea to me is to enjoy the flight along the way at altitudes that one can see the ground and watch the land change, and see what has not been seen before, or has changed since the last season, an exploration. NO general aviation plane that I have flown that flies fast can be flown without some small monitoring attention, including the KR at speed. If you want this, fly commercially and let someone else do the flying. As WW says we do this because we are making a statement to the world of what kind of adventurer we are, and our love of flying. I would NOT want to fly our KR to Canada if I needed to be there in 2-3 days rush. But I DO fully intend to fly the COMPLETE U.S. at some point in our KR in the manner described because it is a perfect platform for that kind of exploration. There is no better joy to me than to have 20 degrees bank on final into the wind, manage my descent to the threshold, feel the plane following my every command, round out smoothly and confidently, and while training wheel pilots are going around asking for the runway into the wind and porpoising like a home sick dolphin in ground effect, feel our KR kiss the runway on her mains, and rollout tail high on the centerline, students gawking at the hold short line, and gently set the tail down and turn off onto the taxiway assigned, and laughing all the way back to the tie down at the tri-gears S'ing on the taxiway due to improper wind correction, while I do so merely to be able to see over the nose, my vision blurred through tears of joy and laughing! RV grin my spruce. KR YEEHAAAWW Any questions? (grounded with a sinus infection with 9 hours remaining in test period) Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Best Airport
The closest airport is Tampa but the best transportation network is going to be from OIA in Orlando, due to all the support given to Disney and the surrounding area of attractions. I have driven that way many times as a ASC volunteer for the FAA at Lakeland and over half the trip there has built up stuff just southwest of Orlando. I also expect more volume of flights are in and out of Orlando Airport so it will be easier to get what you want. I intend to fly to Sun n Fun this year at least one day if not every day I attend since I am just an hour flight away. If the weather is bad we will drive. Brian I will fly the radio up when I bring your tools back and pickup the cake, (may require 2 trips haha). Dan, we are coming soon... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Regulator & windshear answers
First I will answer the easy one. A phone call to Dan Diehl and describing how I was losing charging once the plane got hot (engine temp at 190 degrees normal), got a question from Dan as to where the regulator was located. I told him on the firewall. He said that the regulator during use gets too hot to touch, and he felt that it was failing out due to too much heat, which is something I have witnessed in cars; too much heat too many times and the diodes that collapse to control voltage in the regulator collapse due to heat not voltage, and don't reset. I borrowed the tube from the battery cooling, and relocated to the regulator, and bingo! no more problem. You can also relocate the regulator to the cooling baffle right behind the left hand head, to allow good cooling that way, which is what Dan recommended. Internal regulated alternators due this by having their own fan mounted on the shaft right behind the pulley, so it makes perfect sense. In reference to the loss of control, please all keep in mind that in DOES NOT have to do with a problem with the KR2 design or improper control deflection of the plane. The FAA categorizes the various levels of windshear, based on whether the pilot loses temporary control of the aircraft, and if so by how much for how long. More detailed explanations are available in advisory circulars you can download for free from either AOPA, or EAA, or the FAA website. Briefly, mild turbulence is that which causes the aircraft to move around, but does not cause the loss of any directional control surface. This is what we mostly feel, even if it moves the plane in a direction we don't want it to go, we can bring it back to level flight. Too many pilots report this as moderate turbulence. Moderate turbulence is that which causes the momentary loss of directional control of the aircraft. This is when you experience what I had yesterday, which is turbulence that causes a change in direction in the plane, and even with full control inputs, continues in that direction, or combinations of directions. It occurs briefly, 5-30 seconds at a time and then full control is restored afterwards. Severe turbulence is that which causes total loss of control and lasts much longer than moderate, and can include aircraft damage, either from pilot inputs to regain control, or simply violent response from the aircraft. This would similar to getting caught in large aircraft wake turbulence. What I had was mild to moderate turbulence, and it was at the same altitudes virtually all day, approximately 1000' MSL to 2500' MSL (mean sea level). Above and below just fine. The trick is being willing to be patient, and ride out the airplane's response to the turbulence, and not tear it up trying to fight the windshear, but rather go with it, and then as soon as you are out of it, maneuver back to level flight. It would actually be pretty fun, if it weren't so dog gone violent in the way it surprises you, and the rapid change in direction without warning. I think my head hit the canopy roof 3 times yesterday! And I am only 5'5", wearing a 4 way harness! BUT...like the great bird she is, the KR just kept coming back for more. Even with the strong winds, and bumpy conditions I had no trouble making 3 squeaker landings (don't ask how I know not to add alot of brakes when the tail is still up). I also found out that my left arm will freeze without a jacket on, while the rest of me is fine due to body heat warming the cockpit. That wonderful vent for the summer does NOT completely seal when closed. 47 degrees at sea level is MUCH colder at 5500' ! Now, if I could just get the CD player working 22.2 hours and counting. Off to the airport Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Gauge
Dan Mine is always slow to respond after fueling, due to the tail being low, so the float is working at an angle, but it does come up after a little taxiing, or in level flight. Changed prop back to Culver today due to lots of little cracks found in used Otto prop, so it is now good for a wall clock if anyone wants to buy it...haha. 30.5 hours and counting Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Cake to SnF
Brian I can fly up and get the cake for you if you are coming down Tuesday during the day. I will have the 40 flown off way before then, and can get up and we can flight of 2 back down to LAL. Tue night is HOA meeting and I am on the board. Wed & Thur are work nights, but Fri, Sat, & Sun are wide open, and I intend on FLYING in to SnF! I got to fly up to give you back your tools anyhow. Probably give the Porkopolis Pig a run for his money, but hey she flies great! Flew this morning and had 25 knot tailwind out to practice area so with 100 KIAS I was showing 125 knot ground speed on GPS! Paid for it coming back though, with forward ground speed of 69 knots as the wind increased to 30 knots. Coming down final was like riding an elevator. I waited until a 1 mile final at 1300' MSL and then cut power to 1600 rpms, and added 25 degrees of speed brake. At 1/4 mile out added last 25 degrees of brake, and had to add power to not land on displaced threshold! Kinda road the "whoop te dos" up & down as the wind gusted and died, over and over until finally I wheel landed about 500' down the runway and then just let it roll out all on its own with no brakes needed. Had to add power to reach the taxiway! Had half rudder input all the way down Charlie taxiway since wind was quartering headwind at 280-290 degrees at 25 gusting to 30 knots. Sure was fun though watching the spam cans wig wag all the way up and all the way down! 15 hours and counting, and off all week... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Whopp te do's
For those of you who don't know what a "whoop te do's" is, it is the rolling mounds in a motorcycle moto cross race that the riders try to jump over 2 or 3 at a time, but end up having to ride up and down one to the next. 27L and 27C at Sanford has their approach over a HUGE orange orchard, and when the wind gets ripping it feels like it is rolling like waves under you, and makes the aircraft pitch up and down, over and over as it rides the waves down final. Makes for a big challenge for planning final. So if any of you come to visit at Sanford, remember that I told you about it Then you can enjoy it, and not fight it but work with it. FLY SAFE! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Oil filter
I would definitely run the K over the Fram. Fram oil filters are too restrictive, and can cause problems if the oil volume is low also. Some here may like them, and I run them when there is no other filter for my vehicle, but that is the only time. Some GM vehicles actual prohibit the using of Fram air filters because of their restrictive nature. Regardless of which brand, change the oil and filter every 50 hours whether it is dirty or not. If the K has a removable element like their air filter, and then clean it every 50 hours. Even with out that additive written about earlier, your engine will look brand new also. As a side note, check out Steve Bennett's site on VW engines; he says NEVER run 100w aviation oil. It is too thick and will not properly circulate in your engine. I run 10w30 standard motor oil in winter and switch to 10w40 for summer even in Florida. As Larry says, your results may and probably will vary Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> update
Netters Flew again today (sorry guys up north, sunny and 70 degrees here). Added cooling tube to the voltage regulator today and prevented the alternator from falling out when hot. Dan Diehl says not to locate the regulator on the firewall with out having at a minimum a dedicated cooling tube blowing on the regulator, or the preferred thing is to locate it on the head side of the cooling baffle. Also moved the carb inlet from the front cooling baffle just inside the right hand cowling, to having the air filter mounted directly to carb heat box. This is due to the fact that I got carb ice on Monday, and could not get it to clear completely, causing a rough running condition all the way back to the airport. The under engine intake manifold never touches the engine until it mounts to the head, so no heat is transferred to the carb to maintain a clear venturi, and proper air fuel mix. Now I am using the air that is already pre-warmed off the heads, in order to hopefully correct this tendency. If you look at the Lycoming engines, they do that part smart by mounting the carb directly to the oil pan, which allows engine heat to be transferred to the carb body, assisting in preventing carb icing, and proper atomization. Added some shock cord like Serge did and got very good neutral positioning of the stick with down pressure from the cord. Also added a safety strap for taxiing so that I can leave the canopy open while taxiing, and the strap prevents full opening, so that prop wash or winds cannot yank the canopy open suddenly. Also prevents full opening during flight. 16 hours and counting Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> update
Netters Took the camcorder in the plane today to try and make inside flying video of at least a takeoff and landing. All strapped up and started filming on takeoff from Sanford, landing at Massey Ranch for fuel. Went back to review film and Glare on the windshield washed out the video entirely! Nothing but blue glare from reflection of dash cover. Oh well, filming will have to wait until Bev can run the camera while I fly. Climbed to 5500 feet today with no appreciable drop in climb rate. Since adding vent tube to regulator charging has remained pretty constant. Since moving the carb inlet to below the heads, no more carb icing, and engine runs consistent from after 5min until shut down, and restarts are much easier. Just need to plug the hole in the baffles now. The air was so smooth at 5500' today before 2 pm that several times I was able to let go of the stick and the plane just stayed right there for several miles. NOT so below the cloud layer. Lots of horizontal windshear today. A queasy person would have gotten sick. Several times I ran out of control input and just had to ride where ever the plane was going in the turbulence. My speeds are now matching the GPS much closer, with adjustments for wind, so the static port will stay inside the cabin for now until a better location is determined. My stall speed is now down to 51 mph power off, and 49 mph power on, indicated speeds. Also I have been able to adjust pattern speeds down 10 mph and still have good control. Gassed up today twice and the totals show $38.69 for 15 gallons, giving a cost of $9.67 per hour, and fuel consumption average of 3.73 gallons per hour. Top speed 135 mph, cruise at either 120 mph or 105 mph. Can't beat the prices YEEHAA! 22.2 hours and counting... Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Brief update
Hello all Not been posting due to work and flying...YEHAAA! 2nd & 3rd flights in Feb this week with another 2 flights planned for today. The new prop is working great, has a 1000 fpm climb at 105 mph IAS, yields an economy cruise 120 mph (105 knots )IAS @ 26-2700 rpms, and fast cruise of 135 mph (122 knots) IAS @ 3000-3100 rpms. Max speed is 141 mph (130 knots) @ 3250 rpms. Stall speeds have been confirmed now at 69 mph power on, 71 mph power off, with or without speed brake. It is my contention (opinion) that since the speed brake does not effect the stall speeds, it is not producing significant lift, or the stall speeds should reduce reflecting the additional lift added. Takeoff roll is now something like 700-800 feet solo, and with simulated passenger 1200-1500 feet. Once airborne it climbs almost the same approximately 800 fpm at gross. Average fuel burn. 3.5 gallons per hour! Got to love it. Adjusted tension on aileron cables yesterday to get better control harmony, and all feels good. Still have a hard time with how good that rudder is! 11.8 hours and counting Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Combination
My combination that is working for me is an 1835cc with large cylinders makes it 1915cc with an Otto 52 x 36 prop direct drive with Zenith side draft carb, dual exhaust ( 2 into one each side ), standard plans built KR2, conventional gear, Dan Diehl wing skins, belly board speed brake set for 25 & 50 degrees actuation, wheel fairings and wing gaps seals. Just got back from airport and did a flight of just pattern work, my favorite stuff. 18 circuits in 1.3 on hobbs averaging just over 4 min a lap. Temp was 65 degrees when started, and rose to 70 while flying. Wind was calm in the beginning, and grew to 10 gusting to 15 knots by the halfway point, 45 degrees to runway and variable. I believe that I found the maximum demonstrated cross wind today. By the time I finished pattern work today, the wind was 15 gusting to 20 knots from 150 degrees, which according to the wiz wheel puts the crosswind portion at 90 degrees to be a value of 15 knots, the other 5 knots would be headwind. I was touching down on the right main first, and directly after the left touched down, I was running out of aileron to hold the wing down and prevent weather-vaning. I was also using just over half rudder which is unusual for this KR. So, I think I established my max crosswind: 15 knots @ 90 degrees. WHEW! Fun but hard work. WAAHHEEEYYY...ooops YHAAAW! I am Tired!!! FLY SAFE! Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Court post
Not to invite a huge discussion on this, and at the risk of over simplifying the situation, from what I read the decision from the court revolved around 2 factors: first what were the original limitations spelled out by the DAR/FAA certifying authority; second what constituted a modification that required FAA notification. The Avemco policy had an exclusion which allowed them to deny coverage if an unauthorized modification was made, and flight operations continued. The original limitations were so general and all encompassing in scope that virtually no modification could be made to the aircraft without at least getting a field certification from the FAA, if not re-certification inspection. This would also be accompanied by an associated testing period appropriate to the change, that would be required by the inspector. After the combination was once again "proven" by the test period being successful, normal flight operations would then be allowed and Avemco would have to cover. Minor corrective repairs that return the aircraft to its original state at the time of certification are okay, and only need to be logged properly. The addition of avionics equipment for added safety or utility is permitted as long as the ORIGINAL certified equipment is retained, as long as the weight and balance reflects the installation of said equipment, or if substitutions are made, field approval must be granted by an inspector, which alot of times can happen over the phone, if you can clearly communicate the changes, and fax documentation to the inspector for sign off. Your copies then go in your log. As my DAR explained, when in the test Phase I whatever you test for is what you can do as normal operations in Phase II. Major changes cause an automatic return to Phase I to prove that combination, that can then be used in Phase II normal operations. That is the purpose of the Phase I testing to find problems with your combination and correct them so that when you enter Phase II operations you have a proven combination that is safe, and you just maintain from that time forward. Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> Gliding
Netters Though not totally the same, I have seen with our KR that the wing performs very similarly to a Mooney M20J, or Piper Seminole wing, both of which have similar taper for most of the wing, and are basically designed for speed. Not knowing what the NACA numbers are for the other 2, only the KR RAF48 ( because Mark L has it published ) my comments are merely directed to actual flight observation, not a technical analysis, so please do not take it as such. It is not meant to be. In actual flight I have noticed that all 3 have a rather steep descent at approach speed, with any kind of drag assistance, flaps, belly board, speed brake, as compared to the basic trainers so many people have experience with prior to owning a KR. This forces the pilot to begin planning much sooner his actions during approach, since the time of glide is less. I have also found that my approach speed is somewhat higher than the trainers, downwind 100 mph or approx 95 knots, base at 95-90 mph or 85-90 knots, and final 85-80 mph or approx 80-75 knots. I am also reading almost 10 mph high consistently through the entire speed range. Any slower than this and the controls are very mushy and sluggish to respond, and it gets pushed around in the wind alot. A few days ago I flew in winds 10 knots gusting to 14 knots, approx 30 degrees off to the left, but variable from down the runway to say 60 degrees to the left. Our KR was very controllable, and handled the winds just fine, but it seemed the glide was restricted to approximately 2 to 3 inches from the edges of the cowling. That is to say, that at a given altitude, whatever I could see 2 to 3 inches from any edge of the cowling, I could glide to it. We had a 1 inch rule for the heavy Piper Arrow, because it is a brick without its engine. It is not very exact, but seems to work for safe planning when routing, power off approaching, or for planning an emergency approach. Better to make the field you plan on landing in, and make a safe landing, then attempt to stretch the glide and come up short. You can always do S-turns on short final to use up altitude if needed to prevent overshooting, or even a circle if there is that much. I am registered this year... Shameless plug...anyone needing assistance getting financing to start/finish/continue their KR write me off line... FLY SAFE Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
KR> FBI
Call the FBI 1-800 number and ask for the white collar crime unit, economic crime section. Tell them right off the bat that it is a crime involving interstate commerce, or they will put you off to the local authorities for action. Then do as they tell you to do, and be PATIENT. They move at a snails pace, but they do move Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com 407-323-6960
