And step yourself on the scale as well, Virg
On 12/9/2014 12:06 PM, joe.kr2s.builder--- via KRnet wrote:
> Hello Guys land Dolls, As some of you already know I took over a project
> from Eric Pitts over the summer. I think that I might be the fifth owner of
> this project and there have been many changes from owner to owner. This is a
> unique project that was started by Dr. Dean about 16 years ago now. So there
> is no blame to be found here just observations on how a plane can weigh a ton
> ( not really an exaggeration). When I got it home I took every assembly and
> cataloged and weighed them. I then started to evaluate how I wanted this
> plane to turn out and then evaluated what weight reductions could be done.
> To be very fair there are many very well built assemblies that I well use
> pretty much as is. The first and largest was the fuselage on gear. (too
> many little items included or not included for anyone to make a comparison)
> This weighed in at 150#. I have removed a lot of epoxy runs and spills. The
> use of flox while in the right places was 2 to 3 times what was needed for
> fillets and edge of foam filling. Wood blocking from different configurations
> of systems was all still in place, even though not used anymore. The result
> so far is a reduction of nearly 10# from just this assembly. I still see
> another 3# in lightening holes and a couple more things to remove. (Like tail
> wheel support) The seat had a much smaller yield but still gains to be had.
> It started at 8.5# and with just sanding extra flox out came down to 8#
> even.There are a couple things that I am trying to share here in
> thinking about where you might be able to build a part a bit lighter. One
> item is in blocking. If you are trying to use a block of wood for a gusset or
> support and is is being used or glued on two sides consider it being a
> triangular piece instead of a square piece. Half the weight for free. In most
> cases just epoxy is enough on the surfaces that is in contact. Flox fillets
> are likely over kill and just more weight. (Yes, ounces add up to pounds)
> Also if it is a long blocking situation think if it is needed full length or
> if one or several short pieces would do the same job.Clean up extra
> epoxy runs and spill overs. Use peel ply as much as you can. Again it does
> make a difference on ever part. Be careful of the edge depth that is filled
> with flox on every part. I think the rule of thumb is a 1/4" and it could be
> a triangular 1/4" if the edge is over 1/2" wide. If the edge is that wide or
> more I might suggest that the flox edge still only be the 1/4" triangular
> edge and and a layer of glass to cover the surface with peel ply to take out
> the excess epoxy. Lightening holes are another very efficient way to
> to save weight. I made two new mounting brackets for control stick assembly
> out of aluminum angle. I was able to reduce the weight of each bracket by
> exactly half with lightening holes with no loss of structural integrity. The
> brackets weighed about 3 ounces each so basically I got 2 for one weight
> wise. Not a lot but again ounces make pounds and I will not have another 700
> plus pound KR.Give your bird a free Christmas present by saving
> weight. Remember you save fuel forever for every ounce that you don't need to
> drag into the air. Think before you beef up a part that has served as is for
> 40 years of KR's. Think if it really does need to be thicker. Think if it
> needs to be steel instead of aluminum. Think if it really needs another layer
> of glass. Think if you really need heavy electric motors instead of light
> flap or trim hand operated. Look at every part you make and wonder if it is
> the lightest way that it can be completed.All my best,Joe Horton
>
> Apple's Crazy New Gizmo
> Forget the iPhone 6. Next hit Apple product leaked. (see picture)
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54872c712122b2c4763fdst04duc
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