[lace] Re: amateur / why we do this (long)

2003-09-11 Thread Eva von der Bey
Oh, Liz, I enjoyed your "pricing ritual" story!

Some of my experiences and answers regarding lacemaking and its sense and
its pricelessness:

The only place i make lace in public is an old farm house, where I use to
spend my holidays on horse riding. Its a family place, and between lessons on
horse back for my children or me i enjoy sitting in front of the 150 year old
red brick building, under old trees, making lace in peace.
And I enjoy the opportunity to "demonstrate". Mostly children are curious,
always two or three become so fascinated, that they are sitting beside me for
hours, watching, and asking if they could have a try...
Since my second trip to this place, i always bring a small styro pillow, a
simple straight or snake pricking, some simple bobbins and coloured thick
cotton thread. There was never a week without one or two finished pieces.

So, answer to first "standard question" ("isn't that too difficult? i'd
never learn this...) is no more neccessary. i just point at the red-cheeked eight
year old boy (yes, as often as girls) beside me, who never knew that bobbins
even exist, and who now is able not only to make lace, to see wether he made
an mistake but even to retro it.. 
*g* I spread the virus...

my answer on that question #1 for children is always: "well, do you think
reading is difficult?".  They understand.
for women interested in textile crafts (as most women in Germany know how to
knit): "it's just like knitting, where you have knit and purl. here it's
just cross and twist. one stitch after another, don't worry about the number of
stitches in a row, the number of bobbins on the pillow."

question #2: why are you doing this, what is this lace for?
i try to explain that I enjoy the making itself. and ask, wether they ever
made a puzzle or solved a crossword in a newspaper - and what they do with it
afterwards.. and that I enjoy solving my thread puzzle, and have beautiful
lace as an add on.. and that I only sometimes make lace for a certain purpose.
The main purpose is joy.
(my old song: I'm useful on the job, as mother, as housewife, and in many
other aspects. lacemaking is my recreation time, and has not to useful for
anyone but for me. and for me, it is)  

question #3: how can you be so patient?
I need patience to do the things I don't like.. (ironing e.g.), not for the
things I enjoy. Sounds logical enough for most people *gg*

question #4: do you ever sell your lace?
If people, like in this holidays, have the opportunity to watch my
lacemaking more than a few minutes, the question mutates, including the answer, to:
"this can't be sold, it's unaffordable, isn't it?". 
Which I confirm, saying that I keep my lace or give it as a gift for dear
and knowing people.

Thinking about that, I could imagine to make lace for period costumes. For a
theater which is really trying to choose authentic wear for the actors for
example... For a dressmaker like Bjarne or those who wear his clothes...
For not much more than the thread and the wine during the lacemaking hours..
just for the feeling, this piece of lace will be valued as it should in his
historical context. 
Does this make any sense to you, fellow Arachneans?

bye for know - grey sky, cold, rainy, ugly outside. lacemaking weather.
grey inside: deep grief about the murder of Anna Lindh

Eva, Haltern, Germany

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[lace] Withof

2003-09-11 Thread Steph Peters
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 11:49:53 -0400, Marcie wrote:
>For a thinking person's bobbinlace I nominate Withof... no diagrams or
>pinholes between your brain and the lace. I have also put my Withof
>knowledge to good use when faced with an incorrect pricking in another
>lace technique.

For me Withof was the great challenge, the ultimate scary hardest thing I
could think of lace.  I'd used fine threads in Honiton and Binche, but no
pinholes was definitely removing the safety net.

However, once I tried Withof, under the excellent guidance of Yvonne
Scheeler-Kerkhoff, it became a fun challenge.  The lack of pins is a huge
advantage that enables me to design.  If I can draw it, then I can tackle
making it in Withof.  No have I got the right number of pinholes questions,
no working it out in advance in diagrams.  There are some technicalities in
matching size of design to the thread, and not having areas that require too
many bobbins for a part lace made on a small pillow, but not many.

Tomorrow I will collect Yvonne from the airport to take her to Alston Hall
near Preston where she is teaching for the weekend.  I'm taking my great
African snail design to work on.  This is only the third piece of Withof
I've made.  The first attempt made on a course with Yvonne in Cheltenham in
the spring isn't quite to my satisfaction.  I've redrawn the rear part of
the snail's body to improve the shape of the design.  The head had a part
sticking out horizontally that was hard to work well so I've changed the
angle at which the snail is holding its head to make it easier to work.  My
weekend will be lots of little practice bits to get this right, in
preparation for redoing the entire piece by myself.
--
The young always have the same problem - how to rebel and conform at the 
same time. They have now solved this by defying their parents and copying 
one another. - Quentin Crisp
Steph Peters, Manchester, England
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [lace] progression from the copyright discussion

2003-09-11 Thread Thelacebee
In a message dated 11/09/2003 23:25:41 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> This led to the question from one of my students as to how to get
> permission if all you have seen is a pattern a friend is working which
> you would like to work, with a name of someone you have never heard of
> and that is someone ordinary, not famous, so you haven't got a clue how
> to contact the copyright owner to ask for permission to make or buy a
> legal copy...

Spiders,

Lukily, quite a few designers put both their name and their address onto 
their patterns - certainly Vivienne from Biggins does and I for one, can remember 
who I bought patterns from because there are only so many designers and 
suppliers who sell individual patterns.

My concern comes with patterns which are 'out of print' either because the 
designers have retired (or worse still died) or because the supplier is no 
longer in business.  This is when we have issues.

For instance, I have quite a few Joan Kelly patterns (and yes, Russel, I'm 
trying to work out which ones I have and which ones you still have to get the 
difference) however, Joan has stopped designing and selling her patterns and the 
one supplier that I know who has any of her's only has a few left - and 
certainly, some of my patterns weren't on the available list.  So, what do I do if 
one of my friends or students like a pattern I have but Russel can't supply 
it?

That's where the problems really start because I know who designed it, I know 
who supplied it but I can't get another copy.

Part of me thinks, what the heck.  But most of me thinks simply that there 
are enough patterns in the world that if one isn't available, will the person 
really die if they don't make it?

For example, I had a pattern from the lace guild (yonks old) which was for a 
piece of Bucks about 1" in diameter and meant to go into a broach or locket - 
however, this was just the right size to make as a table centre for my mum's 
dolls house.  So I did.  When her friend bought a dolls house, mum really 
wanted me to make the piece again so that she could give it to her friend.  

However, I couldn't, at that time, find the pattern and also I didn't really 
want them both to have the same piece of lace, I thought it would be nice if 
they had similar but differnt unique pieces.  Why?  Because neither lady is 
likely to be given a piece of lace by anyone else so why shouldn't it be 
different.  So I went through my books and found another piece which was very similar 
in size and idea but a slightly differnt pattern.

In other words, I just made something different.

And for those of you who have always wanted to design - here is a thought - I 
remember making Joan Kelly's basket for my mum.  A friend at my lace group 
liked the pattern but wanted to make a bigger basket, so she sat down and 
designed her own one.  When she finished, it looked nothing like Joan Kellys' - the 
pattern of the torchon was completely different but she had used the idea as 
inspiration.  Also, she learned a lot from the process - like trying to get the 
outer lace strip to the circumferance fit the base - after two redesigned she 
realised that she could just enlarge or reduce using a photocopier.

I still subscribe to the principle that I have too many patterns for one life 
time so if I can't make that, then I'll make this.

But, and this is the big one, I do realise that for many people, when they 
start making lace, seeing a piece that someone else is making is often the 
inspiration to 'have a go' and I do not want to see that lost - so that makes the 
quandary.

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee";>blogging now - see 
what it's all about

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Re: [lace] Recipe and Questions

2003-09-11 Thread Clive and Betty Ann Rice
This should be on lace-chat, but since Margery posted to lace and I'm not sure
she is on chat, I'll reply.  Pardon if anyone is offended.

When we moved back to VA from England, I had some recipes from FH Clive's
aunts.  Since they were in weights and I had my kitchen scales, I
measured/weighed the most common ingredients.  I found that the American
tablespoon is about the same as a dessert spoon in England, and the teaspoon
doesn't veer far from the teaspoon (as with a cup o')
Here they are:

Cake flour - 1 cup = 3 oz
Plain flour - 1 cup = 4 oz
Unbleached flour - 1 cup = 5 oz
Sugar - 1 cup = 8 oz.
Icing sugar - 1 cup = 4 oz (this is the same as confectioners sugar)
Brown sugar, packed - ½ cup = 4 oz  1 cup = 8 oz
Solid vegetable shortening - ½ cup = 4 oz
Dry, uncooked regular oatmeal - 2 cups = 5 oz
Raisins - 1 cup = 5 oz
Chocolate chips - 1 cup = 6 oz

Happy Baking,
Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia USA

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[lace] For bobbin makers?

2003-09-11 Thread Tamara P. Duvall
Gentle Spiders,

Toni (who's no longer on Arachne but still a personal correspondent) 
sent me some info on a tree/bush which goes by a common name of 
"spindle tree" or "burning bush" (genus Euonymus). Supposedly because 
its wood is so smooth, it makes nice weaving spindles. So she thought 
it might be of interest to bobbin makers as well. Since I agree with 
her, I thought I'd pass it on (in case all of you bobbin makers don't 
know about it already )

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/s/spindl82.html

-
Tamara P Duvall
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Lexington, Virginia,  USA
Formerly of Warsaw, Poland
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[lace] Re: Cost of buying

2003-09-11 Thread Tamara P. Duvall
On Thursday, Sep 11, 2003, at 08:53 US/Eastern, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
(Liz) wrote:

What has always got me about reenacting was that people wanted the 
best but wanted to pay the least.
But isn't getting "the most for the least" what we *all want, 
regardless of the circumstances or object? It's where/how far you cut 
your corners that matters, IMO. If I can, I'll wait till the particular 
silk thread I want is on sale -- same silk, but a saving. OTOH, I won't 
get rayon instead, even if it meant more of a saving...

But my saving grace was bartering.
Bartering is wonderful. I once designed and made removable fabric 
covers for display frames for a local artist's exhibit of stained 
glass, threw in a (very simple) wedding dress and got a magnificent 
piece of her glass (she threw in extra red -- more expensive than other 
colours, apparently). Modern, but she took my liking for Art Nouveau 
into consideration, so it's all curves and swirls... It's been 
brightening our entry hall for over 20 yrs, and I still think I got a 
better deal, though she seemed to be very happy with what she got...

So there I am, period up to my eyeballs when the local lacemakers come 
up to you and say - 'that's not right for the period'.
A fairly common human trait -- make yourself bigger, by cutting others 
down "to size"... :) I'm always reminded of that fairy tale where a 
scorpion gets a ride accross the raging river on a fox's back, and 
bites the fox mid-crossing. When the fox points out the nearsightedness 
of this action (now we'll both die), the  scorpion replies: "I couldn't 
help myself; that's how I'm made". I figure the same is true about 
small-minded people...

On the matter of "amateur" status, I'm like Robin and others -- at the 
speed I work, I can afford to *give* but not to sell... So, if anyone 
asks me how much I charge (either for the lace or for the patterns), I 
don't even discuss the price -- I tell them I don't sell because nobody 
in their right mind could afford to pay what it's worth in time and 
effort, and because I don't have to (being a "kept woman"). I then tell 
them to go to WalMart (5 miles in gas, and $2 per yard. All they  need 
)
-
Tamara P Duvall
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Lexington, Virginia,  USA
Formerly of Warsaw, Poland

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[lace] Irma's needle lace

2003-09-11 Thread Lorelei Halley
Hi everybody,
I just wanted you all to know that Irma Osterman has allowed me to put a
photo of her recent needle lace piece "Let me Grow Lovely Growing Old" on
the CALG website (for those who didn't get the most recent IOLI bulletin).
http://www.chicagoarealaceguild.comIt is worked in colored silks and
gold thread.
Lorelei

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[lace] progression from the copyright discussion

2003-09-11 Thread Jane Partridge
In my class yesterday afternoon, I mentioned the discussion we had
regarding *that* mat, and reiterated my stance on using copied patterns
in that it is illegal (without the copyright holder's permission).

This led to the question from one of my students as to how to get
permission if all you have seen is a pattern a friend is working which
you would like to work, with a name of someone you have never heard of
and that is someone ordinary, not famous, so you haven't got a clue how
to contact the copyright owner to ask for permission to make or buy a
legal copy...

I can see her point.  We will never fully stop those who buy a pattern
and then copy it for their friends, no matter how hard we try. But maybe
there are ways we could make it easier for those who wish to obtain a
legal copy to identify who designed the pattern in the first place?
(And I know I'm a terror for often simply putting JP or JMP and the year
on my patterns!).


-- 
Jane Partridge

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[lace] Aesthetics and grounding of Beds and Binche

2003-09-11 Thread Leonard Bazar
I've been fascinated by the different ways makers of
Binche and the other Flemish laces use diagrams, and
plan and execute their work; not at all like
traditional floral Bucks or Beds.  I wonder if there
is any documentary evidence (prickings or diagrams)
indicating how the originals were worked, or even
evidence in the lace.  I would assume if successive
repeats differed, and improved, that East Midlands
methods were at work; you can certainly see that
happening in Thomas Lester - the eagle cuff on page 56
of Ann Buck's book has two mirror-imaged eagles, and
the wheel ground between his feet was only got right
on the one on the left...

I think the safest view on the aesthetics is to
recognise that we all have different equally valid
views - and some of us different views at different
times.  With lace,  however, I think we should
consider it in context.  Binche was not made to be
judged displayed or photographed flat out; it was
meant to be worn, frilled at best and possibly
goffered at worst, and the wearer probably didn't
stand still!  Obviously the same applies to some
extent to Thomas Lester, but that lace was worn when
ladies were more upholstered than draped, and so were
made to be seen more as we do now.  I really do think
we need to take this into account when judging lace.

I know the change from point ground to Beds groundings
is meant to be because the latter were quicker and
easier, and this may be true of the standard plaits of
the more geometric sorts, but scarcely of all.  I
wonder if the original change was as much driven by
aesthetic and fashion values - designs were getting
larger, lace was not frilled up and worn almost like
muslin, and the more open grounds suited it better. 
The Thomas Lester ground of diamond tallies is
certainly not easier nor quicker than point ground to
work, but does suit the patterns better than point
ground would, or at least, I think that's the case
with the pattern I'm working on at present.  The use
of veins and raised tallies in the bolder leaves and
petals in floral Beds balances the style as well, and
certainly don't make the patterns easier or quicker to
work - they seem to me to require skills not used in
floral Bucks - the pattern I'm working on is really in
the transitional mode, and doesn't have those features
(though I'm still struggling!).  Not to go on about it
too much, but one reason I think some of us do not go
for The Mat is that its design is more Beds than Bucks
in this respect.  I find the version with plaited
grounds more attractive.

Back to my struggles in Beds, so to speak - Tamara's
and Adele's comments especially on Binche groundings
have illuminated something I'm trying to deal with.  I
was lucky enough to have a weekend recently at Knuston
Hall on a weekend course given by Mrs Underwood, and
had taken a pattern based on a typical Thomas Lester
unit dated 1856.  It's the top left hand one on page
30 of Ann Buck's book, and also in Mrs Underwood's
"Traditional Bedfordshire Lace, Technique and
Patterns", page 44 (with worked sample).  It's a
typical unit, having a repeat of two flowers and some
leaves against the headside, but just ground by the
time you get over to the foot.  I was tampering with
it by adding a corner and reverse, so to some extent
repricking it.  Mrs U. noted that I was taking the
diamond ground right against the sprigs (which the
lady who worked the sample had also done to some
extent).  She said this was typical Bucks mentality,
but the original pricking had left the motive room to
breathe, and there were more plaits leading into the
ground, as needed, rather than the regular plaited
ground.  This would give a very regular ground, but
with the Baroque design sitting within it rather than
being crushed against it.  I won't be able to check
this till I've done a fair bit more, but I have
already noted it's easier!!  It also does solve the
problem of a regular "strong" ground with a flowing
design - less of a problem aesthetically with the
visually weaker point ground - that the Binche workers
have been debating.

I feel some consolation in that I am probably fairly
close to the original worker, in having some
background in Bucks, and trying to cope with the more
modern stuff!


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[lace] Witches' Work?

2003-09-11 Thread Marcie Greer
Reading back issues of LMi, a technique called Witches' Work was
mentioned in an article by Berthilda Vandoren in connection with Binche.
Does anyone know what this is and have some information about it? 

[Is there any way to ask people not to send speculations (without
seeming totally rude?) We had several very good educated guesses from
our group, but I'm really hoping for an authoritative answer to take
back to them. I volunteered to "ask on arachne".]

Marcie

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[lace] thinking persons lace

2003-09-11 Thread Merlene
"Several of us seem agreed that many bobbin laces,
certainly floral Beds, and some of us (at least me)
floral Bucks, are for "thinking" persons, what about
Binche?  "

I think all of the laces are for thinking people. We each are unique in the
way we think
and that is why one lace will grab us and another won't. Whichever one we
choose
it challenges us to think and improve.
M
erlene
 A lace artist working with my
hands,head,and heart

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[lace] Re: Binche - Was Thinking person's lace

2003-09-11 Thread kate
I had the price discussion with one woman where I related the cost of
preparing the pricking alone to how much she would pay her cleaner.  I
was looking at the lace roundel she had picked to discuss and when I
looked up to continue the conversation she just wasn't there any more.

Kate
in Somerset
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RV: [lace] Lazy susan and thanks

2003-09-11 Thread Antje González
Thanks to the thread about the lazy susan, I have found out how to use mine.
I happened to buy one years ago in a lace fair,(didn't know its name), and
don't remember the seller's explanations about how to use it. Now I finally
will try it and find out if it really works.
Antje, from Guadalajara, Spain.

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RE: [lace] amateur lacemakers and thinking person's bobbinlace

2003-09-11 Thread Marcie Greer
We could take a cue from amateur astronomers. They take great pride in
remaining amateurs and have made many of the important discoveries that
require a human eye put up to a telescope. These days many of the
professionals do not look up from their computers and couldn't locate
the constellations if their lives depended on it. Some have never even
looked through a telescope!

For a thinking person's bobbinlace I nominate Withof... no diagrams or
pinholes between your brain and the lace. I have also put my Withof
knowledge to good use when faced with an incorrect pricking in another
lace technique.

Marcie

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RE: [lace] amateur lacemakers

2003-09-11 Thread Aurelia L. Loveman
I would remind readers that the root of the word "amateur" means "love." 
If you have a choice of various meanings for a word, why choose the one
that's "insulting?" Rather, choose the most suitable meaning. If we're
talking about lace and lacemaking, "lover" would be the best meaning for
"amateur."

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Re: [lace] amateur lacemakers

2003-09-11 Thread Thelacebee
In an email dated Thu, 11 Sep 2003 12:35:12 pm GMT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

>In a message dated 09/11/2003 5:35:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
>> I'm more insulted by the term 'amateur lacemakers' 
Devon
>who thinks amateur is a word with a positive connotation
>

Unfortunately, like other words that we have discussed here such as craft, amateur has 
lost it's pure meaning and become an insult to people - 'Oh, you're only an amateur', 
'that's very amateurish'

I for one am professional in all that I do except when I'm being silly and a 'free 
child' - mind you I'm quite professional in that.

But then professional has connotations too - as in 'you're a real pro' 

-- 

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee";>blogging now - see 
what it's all about

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RE: [lace] amateur lacemakers

2003-09-11 Thread Panza, Robin
>>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'm more insulted by the term 'amateur lacemakers' - if they mean that I
don't get paid then that is only true if we mean in money and I don't charge
because no one could afford to pay me.<<<

I'm perfectly happy to be called amateur.  I make no effort whatsoever to
earn a living by making lace.  I could never do so, at the rate I work and
given my disinterest in finishing things or making gobs of any one pattern.
I don't see "amateur" as anything derogatory.  The atheletes in the Olympics
are amateurs (well, mostly).  They're spectacular atheletes, they're just
not earning their living that way (well, mostly).

We (and they) do what we do for personal enrichment, not for money.  What's
insulting about that?

Robin P.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com 

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Re: [lace] Cost of buying was Binche

2003-09-11 Thread Thelacebee
In an email dated Thu, 11 Sep 2003 10:17:13 am GMT, Clive and Betty Ann Rice <[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]> writes:

>Oh, Liz, that is a classic!  Love it!
>
>Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia, USA
>~
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> So I would go through the 'price ritual'.
>>
See, it's not just the tatting woman that goes around and makes your life misery.

What has always got me about reenacting was that people wanted the best but wanted to 
pay the least.

My other half always said that when it came to buying equipment for fighting you 
couldn't spend enough.  He has on too many occasions had badly weilded sword or miss 
used pike has ended up crashing across his head - OH says that if he hadn't got the 
best helmet, made sure it was padded properly and always kept the chin strap flexible 
he would have been laid up for months in hosiptal.  

Reenactment can be dangerous but you only get what you pay for.

I suppose that I'm lucky - I found that I couldn't afford the cost of clothing so I 
went out and bought patterns, sized them up for me and made clothes.  I only had 2 
terms of bad dressmaking lessons and I cannot make anything modern but have a talent 
for period costume.

But my saving grace was bartering.  I found people who made wonder clothes and would 
offer them my lace if they gave me money off things.  One lady I offered about 5 yards 
of handmade lace approximately 2 - 2.5" wide and made in linen to a torchon pattern 
that was from Belguim and from the period that we did.  She was over the moon and 
offered to make me a cassock (it's like a jacket with buttons up the inside of the 
arms and the side seams of the jacket - you can then unbutton it and button the 
sleeves to the seams and make a cloak - warm, thick and washed in water repellant it 
makes a great rain jacket when you are on the field.)

We worked on an hour exchange rate and she felt that the button sewing on (200 in all) 
equalled the work in the lace in hours - so all I had to do was pay for the material.

We fixed the price at £20 for the wool suiting and thread.  When it came to swopping I 
had been to another couple of events and had actually got 14 yards of the lace for 
her.  I was really happy with the cassock and was quite willing to give the extra 
length as a bonus - she was taken aback by this gesture and said that it was nearly 
three times what I had agreed so she couldn't charge me anything.

Result?  Two happy bunnies - she had enough lace to cover her wedding dress and I was 
warm and dry.

However, one of my biggest upsets when reenacting was the fact that I had taken care 
to research what pillow and bobbins I would use for the period.  I also had the right 
type of fabric for the period covering my pillow and as a cover cloth.  I have certain 
bobbins that when spangled also use period beads or semi precious stones and worked in 
either silk or linen on a period pricking.

Everything done to the sciscors, pins, ink on the pricking had been done right.  Even 
the pricking card was the right type.

So there I am, period up to my eyeballs when the local lacemakers come up to you and 
say - 'that's not right for the period'.

You feel like getting them by the throat and saying look, I've spent 10 years 
researching this and IT IS

To which they would say, 'Oh, I don't think so'.  Mind you this is the type of person 
who when you ask usually has done about 3 lessons at the local college and now KNOWS 
EVERYTHING but on too many occasions it is said by lacemakers who should know better.

When I go to a demonstration I always take time to admire everything that the person 
is doing no matter how CRAP they might be.  I'll pick on a particular bobbin that they 
obviously love and ask them who made it, where did they get it, how long have they had 
it ... etc.  I will compliment their choice of pillow / pattern / thread etc and 
encourage them and wish them luck.  

No matter how dire I would never critisize them - but perhaps that is just the tutor 
in me - it's also why I like to hang out with you guys.  Supportive is your middle 
name.

OBTW - in the end I just used to make honiton at demonstrations - this was in the days 
before Binche became popular - that used to shut them up as most of the critics hadn't 
tried it and had no idea what I was doing.

My love to you all

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee";>blogging now - see 
what it's all about

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[lace] amateur lacemakers

2003-09-11 Thread Dmt11home
In a message dated 09/11/2003 5:35:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I'm more insulted by the term 'amateur lacemakers' - if they mean that I 
> don't get paid then that is only true if we mean in money and I don't charge 
> because no one could afford to pay me.
> 
> 

My dictionary gives the definition of "amateur" as "one who cultivates any 
study or art or other activity for personal pleasure instead of professionally 
or for gain."
Devon
who thinks amateur is a word with a positive connotation

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Re: [lace] Richard II, hankies and pockets

2003-09-11 Thread Jill Treeves
Just had to respond to this as earlier this year my lace tutor arrange a 
visit to the Globe Theatre for her classes - we didn't actually get to see a 
show, but did get a demonstration by the head of the wardrobe there, where 
she talked about the costumes and how they were made - some we even got to 
touch!  What a fabulous day - time just rushed by and all-to-soon we had to 
make the journey home.  We felt so honoured that she had arranged this for 
us and very proud that she had worked quite a bit of the lace on the 
costumes [she didn't do the hanky :)].  I believe that she also appeared on 
the TV show in the interval (can't confirm it as I don't get the Channel 
that this was on :( ).

Happy lacing
Jill
@ Heathrow, where the sun is trying to shine through the rain clouds
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Re: [lace] Re: Binche - Was Thinking person's lace

2003-09-11 Thread Malvary Cole
I can relate to that phylosophy by the public at large. When I was demonstrating on 
one occasion someone asked me if I sold what I made, I told them no because people 
don't want to pay what it is worth.

After some further discussion she asked me how much I would charge, just as a matter 
of interest, for the narrow edging on my pillow. I told her it took me 20 minutes to 
do one pattern repeat and so 3 patterns to the hour.  I said I should be paid $20 per 
hour - she said "$20? that is too high". I asked if she had a car, or ever needed work 
done in her house
then the going rate for a specialist to do a good job is at least $45/hour.  We 
eventually agreed $5/hour and I pointed out that was less that minimum wage.  Then we 
counted the patterns (about 20inches) which meant the piece I had on the pillow was 
going to cost over $100.  She said "Wow, now I understand why handmade craft things 
cost so much.  I had never
thought about that before."

So perhaps it did make a small group of people realise that good quality handmade 
things are expensive.

Malvary - off to work in Ottawa.

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[lace] Binche - Was Thinking person's lace

2003-09-11 Thread Clive and Betty Ann Rice
Oh, Liz, that is a classic!  Love it!

Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia, USA
~
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> So I would go through the 'price ritual'.
>
> I'd scratch my head, look pensive and say 'well, about er ... yes, that much thread 
> - yes, call the thread £30'.
>
> They'd be getting their wallets out at this point to rip my arm out of it's socket.
>
> Then I'd say, without any emotion, 'of course it would take approximately 500 plus 
> hours so at £15 an hour that would make it just over £7,500 for labour - heck, I'll 
> throw the thread in for free'.
>
> This is where the 'client' would be doing a goldfish impersonation - you know, the 
> mouth opening and closing but nothing happening.
>
> The 'client' would then splutter 'but I can by one from (insert name of any general 
> store you like) for only 15 quid (indignation, indignation.'
>
> 'Hey', I would reply, 'if that's all you want then fine'.  At this point, other half 
> would walk past in his handmade, blackwork embroidered shirt and ask how I was doing 
> with his lace for his cuffs - I'd always say, 'no problem love, you'll get it 
> shortly' and he'd say 'brilliant - it'll look so good and authentic'.
>
> Yes, I'm horrid.  Yes, I enjoyed it.  Yes, they are ALL cheapskates.
>
> I earnt £15 an hour doing my day job and my lacemaking was far better than my work I 
> did there.  So wasn't I worth the same amount if not more?
>
> When you then tell them that lace was one sold by placing soverigns along the length 
> you wanted to buy they go off in a huff.
>

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Re: [lace] Re: Binche - Was Thinking person's lace

2003-09-11 Thread Thelacebee
In an email dated Wed, 10 Sep 2003 4:12:46 pm GMT, "Aurelia L. Loveman" <[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]> quoted:
>"... Binche...never fully evolved in design...but now being 
>revived as esoteric studies for accomplished amateur 
>lacemakers."
>
>Aurelia
>
Aurelia,

I'm more insulted by the term 'amateur lacemakers' - if they mean that I don't get 
paid then that is only true if we mean in money and I don't charge because no one 
could afford to pay me.

When I did reenactment (don't worry, I'm better now) I was often asked to make a 
reproduction 17th Century collar by various men or by their wives.  I always carried 
postcards of examples of the lace or photocopies of pieces that I have been lucky 
enough to see first hand, and would say, 'do you mean like this?' and they would say 
'yes' (usually milanese).  

So I would go through the 'price ritual'.

I'd scratch my head, look pensive and say 'well, about er ... yes, that much thread - 
yes, call the thread £30'.  

They'd be getting their wallets out at this point to rip my arm out of it's socket.

Then I'd say, without any emotion, 'of course it would take approximately 500 plus 
hours so at £15 an hour that would make it just over £7,500 for labour - heck, I'll 
throw the thread in for free'.

This is where the 'client' would be doing a goldfish impersonation - you know, the 
mouth opening and closing but nothing happening.

The 'client' would then splutter 'but I can by one from (insert name of any general 
store you like) for only 15 quid (indignation, indignation.'

'Hey', I would reply, 'if that's all you want then fine'.  At this point, other half 
would walk past in his handmade, blackwork embroidered shirt and ask how I was doing 
with his lace for his cuffs - I'd always say, 'no problem love, you'll get it shortly' 
and he'd say 'brilliant - it'll look so good and authentic'.

Yes, I'm horrid.  Yes, I enjoyed it.  Yes, they are ALL cheapskates.

I earnt £15 an hour doing my day job and my lacemaking was far better than my work I 
did there.  So wasn't I worth the same amount if not more?

When you then tell them that lace was one sold by placing soverigns along the length 
you wanted to buy they go off in a huff.

- 

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee";>blogging now - see 
what it's all about

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[lace] Richard II, hankies and pockets

2003-09-11 Thread Bridget Marrow
On Mon, 8 Sep 2003, Jean Barrett wrote: 

Dear Jean and other spiders,
I didn't see the televised version of Richard II from the Globe, but I was 
lucky enough to see it live in the magnificent Middle Temple Hall earlier in 
the year.  Of course from the audience one didn't get 'close-ups' of the 
lace, so it wasn't so distracting.

Richard II and his first Queen, Ann of Bohemia, are credited with 
introducing the handkerchief as a fashionable item to the English court, 
which is why, I think, so much was made of it.  But yes, it should have been 
larger and the corner was all wrong.

Pockets for women were a separate item until the late 18th century - worn 
under  the skirt and reached through a gap in the seam.  For men 'built-in' 
pockets came much earlier.  Janet Arnold in "Patterns of Fashion" shows 
several early 17th century breeches with pockets.  The word certainly occurs 
in Shakespeare.

The Globe wardrobe prides itself on making clothes as authentic as possible, 
both in fabrics and construction.  All the stitching is done by hand, and 
they have begun to commission hand-made braids and narrow laces.  But 
inevitably there are still compromises.  They can't afford fine needlelace, 
reticella and punto-in-aria for their collars and ruffs.  At least they're 
not using chemical lace or nylon!

In case anyone is historically confused, the aim of the production was not 
to replicate the fashions of Richard II's time (14th century), but those of 
the time when the play was written in the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (late 
16th century).

Bridget, in Watford, England.

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[lace] Channer's mat

2003-09-11 Thread Helene Gannac
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 13:55:06 +0100
From: "Ruth Bean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [lace] Re: lace-digest V1 #3773 Miss Channer's Mat

Sadly, this illustrates just how the myths are perpetuated in this
discussion:.

Good on you, Ruth, I think this was an excellent answer to a lot of comments. I
can't understand why this discussion is still going on! As several people said,
there are a lot of modern pieces which are just as interesting, if not more!
Perhaps, to calm all disappointed lacemakers, you could incorporate The Mat,
and its pricking, of course, into one of your future books on this type of
lace...
Please keep publishing, anyway, we all need books to support our enthusiasm,
and make us dream...
Yours, gratefully,

Helene Gannac, Melbourne
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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