Re: [lace] Question - please
From: Barb ETx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Several years ago the THUMB PINCUSHIONS ( not the bottle cap > ones), the other > that resemble a heart were everywhere. I had a friend ask me > tonight if I had a pattern It's just a square of fabric, about 4" on a side. The exact measurement isn't critical. Fold in half diagonally and sew all of one side and most of the other, leaving about an inch gap for turning and stuffing. Turn and stuff firmly, then close the hole. Tack the two points (the points at the ends of the fold, not the one that's sewn on both sides) together. A variation: fold the square in half diagonally, but include a short length of 1/8" ribbon in the seams at the fold. Make sure the length of the ribbon is inside the folded fabric, with just the base caught in the seam (not sticking out where you can see the ribbon while you're sewing). When it's turned and stuffed, use the ribbons to tie the points together. You can embellish by including lace in the seam, or cover the seam afterward with braid. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lacemaking Ancestors?
While tracing one family (the Braybrooks) on my Dad's side, I found census records for them in 1841 in Keyston, Huntingdonshire and all the female members of the families (there were several groups) were lacemakers! What I don't know is the type of lace that would have been made in Keyston. It is on the border of Northamptonshire but could have been influenced by either Bedfordshire or Buckinghamshire. Does anyone have any suggestions to offer? Ahhh, Helen, what we really need to know is, - how far is Keyston from Tiffield? :-) In Jackson's "History of Hand-Made Lace", regarding Northamptonshire laces, she says in part "...The patterns were taken from those of Lille and Mechlin, hence the laces of Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire are often called "English Lille." (P. 184) The outbreak of the war with France gave a great impulse to the lace trade of Northampton, as it closed our ports to the French laces. From that time a sort of fausse Valenciennes, called locally "French ground," has been made. Valenciennes as fine as any made in Hainault was also made until the cessation of the war. The lace is still [1900] in Tiffield and other lace-making districts of the county." I wonder if your 1841 ancestors would have been influenced by the laces made during the French wars, but 1815 to 1841 is only 26 years, and 26 years ago, today, is only 1981. I can well imagine someone making the laces of 1981 in 2007. Adele Very close to you, in North Vancouver, BC and sorry to have missed the RAL meeting today. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Question - heart pincushions
I've seen large heart pincushions (and I use one) - perhaps these 'thumbs' are a smaller version - take a square of fabric, fold diagonally right sides together and stitch the two open sides, leaving an opening for stuffing. Turn rightside out. Fill this triangle and slip-stitch the opening shut, bring the longer points of the triangle together and stitch them, this forms the heart. Does that help? On Nov 18, 2007 5:13 PM, Barb ETx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Several years ago the THUMB PINCUSHIONS ( not the bottle cap ones), the > other > that resemble a heart were everywhere. I had a friend ask me tonight if I > had > a pattern and I do not...Does any one have one that I may share, or a link > to > > -- Bev (near Sooke, BC on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Question - please
Several years ago the THUMB PINCUSHIONS ( not the bottle cap ones), the other that resemble a heart were everywhere. I had a friend ask me tonight if I had a pattern and I do not...Does any one have one that I may share, or a link to a website. TIA BarbE - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: SPAM-LOW: [lace] Lacemaking Ancestors?
:))) There's actually a Northhampton lace. It quite resembles Bucks. There are two wonderful examples on the cover the the paperback edition of Palliser. If you do not have a copy write back and I'll send a scan of the cover. Kate Henry Indiana USA - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lace" Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: SPAM-LOW: [lace] Lacemaking Ancestors? With the lace list being so quiet just now, I thought I'd tell you about one of my latest genealogical finds. While tracing one family (the Braybrooks) on my Dad's side, I found census records for them in 1841 in Keyston, Huntingdonshire and all the female members of the families (there were several groups) were lacemakers! That means I now have 'race memories' of lacemaking from both sides of the family as my maternal grandmother made lace most of her life though only as a hobby. Clearly I was meant to learn to make lace myself :-) What I don't know is the type of lace that would have been made in Keyston. It is on the border of Northamptonshire but could have been influenced by either Bedfordshire or Buckinghamshire. Does anyone have any suggestions to offer? Happy lacing, Helen (in sunny Vancouver, BC on the west coast of mainland Canada where the local mountains are getting a fine sprinkling of snow to add to the beauty of the place) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lacemaking Ancestors?
With the lace list being so quiet just now, I thought I'd tell you about one of my latest genealogical finds. While tracing one family (the Braybrooks) on my Dad's side, I found census records for them in 1841 in Keyston, Huntingdonshire and all the female members of the families (there were several groups) were lacemakers! That means I now have 'race memories' of lacemaking from both sides of the family as my maternal grandmother made lace most of her life though only as a hobby. Clearly I was meant to learn to make lace myself :-) What I don't know is the type of lace that would have been made in Keyston. It is on the border of Northamptonshire but could have been influenced by either Bedfordshire or Buckinghamshire. Does anyone have any suggestions to offer? Happy lacing, Helen (in sunny Vancouver, BC on the west coast of mainland Canada where the local mountains are getting a fine sprinkling of snow to add to the beauty of the place) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bedfordshire
I do it this way too - with a slight modification because I found the resulting, joined trail too thick. I gradually throw out every second bobbin in each trail. That way, when you 'pull the loop' there's space for each thread and you end up with trails of the original thickness. On 17 Nov 2007, at 21:13, Cindy Rusak wrote: At a point about 15-20 passes (of the worker) before the end of the lace, unwind the passive bobbins either on one side of the work or alternate from side to side (in your case 10 bobbins), and fold the thread back on itself to create a loop which will end beyond where the piece of lace will join. You need a long enough loop to get to where the lace is being joined plus enough to wind on the bobbin and the leash. Wind the loop onto your bobbin as you would a single thread, leaving the end of the thread above the work to be pulled later. Continue to work the lace to the join. When the workers from either side meet, undo the loops on your passive bobbins, pass the passive bobbin coming from the other side through the loop and gently pull the loop (using the thread end left earlier) back into the work to about halfway back to where the thread end comes out of the work. You can then snip both thread ends very close to the work. The join will be less bulky if you alternate from side to side the looped passive threads . You can use the same method with the workers as well, though you can loop them much closer to the end of the work (one or two passes might be enough). Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bedfordshire help
I do it this way too - with a slight modification because I found the resulting, joined trail too thick. I gradually throw out every second bobbin in each trail. That way, when you 'pull the loop' there's space for each thread and you end up with trails of the original thickness. On 17 Nov 2007, at 21:13, Cindy Rusak wrote: At a point about 15-20 passes (of the worker) before the end of the lace, unwind the passive bobbins either on one side of the work or alternate from side to side (in your case 10 bobbins), and fold the thread back on itself to create a loop which will end beyond where the piece of lace will join. You need a long enough loop to get to where the lace is being joined plus enough to wind on the bobbin and the leash. Wind the loop onto your bobbin as you would a single thread, leaving the end of the thread above the work to be pulled later. Continue to work the lace to the join. When the workers from either side meet, undo the loops on your passive bobbins, pass the passive bobbin coming from the other side through the loop and gently pull the loop (using the thread end left earlier) back into the work to about halfway back to where the thread end comes out of the work. You can then snip both thread ends very close to the work. The join will be less bulky if you alternate from side to side the looped passive threads . You can use the same method with the workers as well, though you can loop them much closer to the end of the work (one or two passes might be enough). Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Bedfordshire Help
Thank you everybody who gave me hints and tips on my Beds lace. I do appreciate it, and am even more convinced of what a great group this is! Thank you all so much again. Dee Palin Warwickshire - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
